Zach Woods
New member
The following is archival:
*****
Just info for future reference (no photos) for repair, other.
Presumably there are better (correct) instructions somewhere in
Westfalia land. Just need a phillips screwdriver (and a small pry
thing for the plastic caps covering the screws). Use at own risk.
A. Removal of Light Housing (above awning window)
The light housing is held on by 5 screws (phillips). Three (3) screws
are above the light housing and two screws are on the bottom of the
light housing.
The plastic panel above the light housing has three slots. The light
housing has three tabs which insert upwards into the slots. The three
screws above the light housing go through the plastic panel and through
the three tabs of the light housing.
There are two little metal brackets screwed into the screen/blind
frame. The two screws on the bottom of the light housing screw into
the brackets.
1. Remove the plastic caps (use thin piece of metal/plastic to pry
off).
2. Unscrew the phillips screws.
3. The light housing should fall downwards with a slight tug (but
don't let it drop as there are two wires for the light).
4. Wire connectors for the light pull on/off.
Note: To replace the light bulb, just unscrew the two little black
knobs.
B. Removal of plastic cover/ledge on bottom of awning window covering
roller screen.
This piece is held on primarily by two screws (phillips), one on each
end. In addition, the bottom part of this piece has a lip which goes
underneath the metal table bracket. In some instances, the screws for
the metal table bracket also go through the lip of this plastic
cover/ledge.
1. Remove the plastic caps
2. Unscrew the two main screws.
3. Unscrew the table bracket a bit and pull piece upwards.
4. If doesn't move, may need to unscrew entire table bracket.
C. Removal of window blind/screen
The window blind/screen consists of a metal frame, a screen roller on
the bottom, and a blind roller on the top. The blind and screen snap
together by little white plastic tabs on each end of the three feet
wide pieces (inside the vertical frame area); the three feet wide metal
pieces you use to pull up/down don't hold the blind/screen together--
just slot together.
The frame is held on by 4 screws (2 on each side; phillips). You need
to remove the snap on cover on each side of the frame to access the
screws. The frame has four circular openings in the frame to reach the
screws.
To remove the snap-on cover, pry from the outside vertical edge moving
up/down. The inside vertical edge of each snap-on cover has a small
channel which goes over the blind/window frame. On the non-seen side
of the snap-on cover is a vertical protrustion which slots into the
vertical middle of the frame. So, pry from the outside edge of the
covers (farthest away from the window).
Note: Didn't see any quick easy way to replace the blind or screen
without replacing the entire blind/screen/frame unit. To access this
blind/screen unit, you need to remove A & B above.
D. Plastic Trim Around Window (part of the large plastic panel above
and to the left of the window (rear of van). Didn't touch. Bottom
portion beneath window doesn't appear screwed into anything (the window
blind/screen holds the plastic trim in place). There are pre-made
holes in this piece to access the screws holding the metal frame for
the awning window, so there doesn't appear to be any reason to remove
this plastic piece.
E. Removal of Bottom Plastic Panel (the one with table and cupholders)
The bottom plastic panel is held on by the following:
1. At the top, the metal table bracket screws (phillips) go through
the bracket and the top part of the plastic panel. (The metal bracket
has a right-side up in order for table to insert.) The screws go into
the van structure.
2. The flip-up table screws through the plastic panel into a large
metal bracket (total of 8 phillips screws and caps). This metal
bracket piece is not part of the van; looks like Westfalia added to
provide support.
a. Remove the plastic caps.
b. Unscrew the flip-up brackets (3 screws each)
c. Swing table downwards and now you can access the 2 screws behind
the telescoping angled leg.
(Note: There's a little gray bumper cap attached to the plastic panel
underneath the angled leg--when the table is flipped closed, the table
leg pushes against that little gray bumper cap to prevent vibrating
noises).
3. The right cupholder (closest to driver's seat) screws through the
plastic panel into the van body (3 phillips screws).
NOTE: The left cupholder (one closest to rear of van) does not need to
be removed in order to remove the plastic panel; its screws into little
metal clips attached to the plastic panel.
4. Around the lower third of the plastic panel on the outside edges
are two screws (one on each side; phillips with washer). Remove the
plastic cap and unscrew.
5. Screw under heater duct. There may be a little screw through the
bottom inside portion of the panel beneath the heater duct circle. To
access this screw, pull off the louvered cover (held on by friction),
unscrew the black tube plastic piece which inserts into the rubber
heater duct (3 phillips screws), pull this black tube plastic piece off
the rubber heater duct, push the rubber heater duct upwards and look
for a screw underneath.
6. At the bottom of the plastic panel, there are several metal clip
brackets screwed to the floor. The bottom of the plastic panel slide
between the floor and these brackets via friction. At this point, the
panel should come out with a gentle horizontal to floor tug outwards
(don't pull up on panel as the little clips will just dig into the
panel).
7. The telephone wire will still be connected to the jack, and
depending on the length of the wire, you may need to disconnect from
jack or not.
F. So what's hidden behind the bottom plastic panel?
1. There are two rectangular pieces of white styrofoam materials glued
to the van body (there's a horizontal metal cross member at knee
height, so one piece above and one piece below). The styrofoam
material is about 1/4" thick or so. There's plenty of exposed exterior
van body metal around the pieces of styrofoam (not much insulation).
2. The left portion of the bottom styrofoam piece and surrounding
metal area has been spray-painted black. This is the area behind the
open slots in the plastic panel (next to the bottom portion of the back
seat). Presumably this black paint is to make sure that when the bench
seat is removed, you don't look through the open slots and see some
white styrofoam and silver paint. Paint doesn't adhere well to the
styrofoam material, so lots of black paint flakes.
3. Behind the heater duct exit (nearest the driver's seat), there's a
small rectangular hole in the floor below the heater duct which goes
into a white corrugated type duct for the heater air intake. There's
no filter (just the heater duct which runs about 1-2" above this
opening). Thus, air flows into the coach heater from the open slots in
the plastic panel next to the bench seat, through the open cavity
behind the plastic panel (with a piece of styrofoam glued to van body),
and down through the floor. Thus, the area behind the bottom portion
of the plastic panel is used as a large open area duct. Also, as the
van body framework is open in part, air would also circulate.
4. Along the bottom portion on the floor (would be hidden by the
bottom portion of the plastic panel which juts out) is the heater
duct. Just to the right of the open slots is a hole in the floor where
the heater duct comes upward into the van into a T, with a duct going
to the rear of the van and a duct going forward (ending in the heater
outlet of the plastic panel behind the driver's seat). The heater duct
is encased in a black spongy insulation cover, and rests off the floor
on two wood blocks (about 1-2" high).
5. The telephone wire is routed between the plastic panel and the van
body (better is to route along heater duct so plastic panel doesn't
bulge out, but you can't see that part of panel anyways).
6. Lots of dirt/dust (hopefully, the heater can take dirty air).
7. Some surface rust spots (sand lightly, painted)--presumably from
the leaky awning window.
8. With the plastic panel removed, you can also see a bit behind the
kitchen cabinet. The back of the bottom kitchen cabinet is about 8" or
so away from the inside part of the van body.
The kitchen floor on this side does not go all the way to the van body
(about 8" or so).
In this space are tons of bundled wires, heavy wires, heater duct,
water hoses, etc. Also, there's a metal mesh box with circuit boards
in it (can see better if remove the access panel behind the bench
seat), where the battery charger (?) plugs in.
The heater duct runs right beside the fresh water tank and the gray
water tank.
Again, at least on lower portion of van which was visible, not much
insulation except for a piece of styrofoam material glued to van body
with plenty of van body metal exposed.
For future installations of anything (solar?), this would probably be
where stuff could be run.
*****
Just info for future reference (no photos) for repair, other.
Presumably there are better (correct) instructions somewhere in
Westfalia land. Just need a phillips screwdriver (and a small pry
thing for the plastic caps covering the screws). Use at own risk.
A. Removal of Light Housing (above awning window)
The light housing is held on by 5 screws (phillips). Three (3) screws
are above the light housing and two screws are on the bottom of the
light housing.
The plastic panel above the light housing has three slots. The light
housing has three tabs which insert upwards into the slots. The three
screws above the light housing go through the plastic panel and through
the three tabs of the light housing.
There are two little metal brackets screwed into the screen/blind
frame. The two screws on the bottom of the light housing screw into
the brackets.
1. Remove the plastic caps (use thin piece of metal/plastic to pry
off).
2. Unscrew the phillips screws.
3. The light housing should fall downwards with a slight tug (but
don't let it drop as there are two wires for the light).
4. Wire connectors for the light pull on/off.
Note: To replace the light bulb, just unscrew the two little black
knobs.
B. Removal of plastic cover/ledge on bottom of awning window covering
roller screen.
This piece is held on primarily by two screws (phillips), one on each
end. In addition, the bottom part of this piece has a lip which goes
underneath the metal table bracket. In some instances, the screws for
the metal table bracket also go through the lip of this plastic
cover/ledge.
1. Remove the plastic caps
2. Unscrew the two main screws.
3. Unscrew the table bracket a bit and pull piece upwards.
4. If doesn't move, may need to unscrew entire table bracket.
C. Removal of window blind/screen
The window blind/screen consists of a metal frame, a screen roller on
the bottom, and a blind roller on the top. The blind and screen snap
together by little white plastic tabs on each end of the three feet
wide pieces (inside the vertical frame area); the three feet wide metal
pieces you use to pull up/down don't hold the blind/screen together--
just slot together.
The frame is held on by 4 screws (2 on each side; phillips). You need
to remove the snap on cover on each side of the frame to access the
screws. The frame has four circular openings in the frame to reach the
screws.
To remove the snap-on cover, pry from the outside vertical edge moving
up/down. The inside vertical edge of each snap-on cover has a small
channel which goes over the blind/window frame. On the non-seen side
of the snap-on cover is a vertical protrustion which slots into the
vertical middle of the frame. So, pry from the outside edge of the
covers (farthest away from the window).
Note: Didn't see any quick easy way to replace the blind or screen
without replacing the entire blind/screen/frame unit. To access this
blind/screen unit, you need to remove A & B above.
D. Plastic Trim Around Window (part of the large plastic panel above
and to the left of the window (rear of van). Didn't touch. Bottom
portion beneath window doesn't appear screwed into anything (the window
blind/screen holds the plastic trim in place). There are pre-made
holes in this piece to access the screws holding the metal frame for
the awning window, so there doesn't appear to be any reason to remove
this plastic piece.
E. Removal of Bottom Plastic Panel (the one with table and cupholders)
The bottom plastic panel is held on by the following:
1. At the top, the metal table bracket screws (phillips) go through
the bracket and the top part of the plastic panel. (The metal bracket
has a right-side up in order for table to insert.) The screws go into
the van structure.
2. The flip-up table screws through the plastic panel into a large
metal bracket (total of 8 phillips screws and caps). This metal
bracket piece is not part of the van; looks like Westfalia added to
provide support.
a. Remove the plastic caps.
b. Unscrew the flip-up brackets (3 screws each)
c. Swing table downwards and now you can access the 2 screws behind
the telescoping angled leg.
(Note: There's a little gray bumper cap attached to the plastic panel
underneath the angled leg--when the table is flipped closed, the table
leg pushes against that little gray bumper cap to prevent vibrating
noises).
3. The right cupholder (closest to driver's seat) screws through the
plastic panel into the van body (3 phillips screws).
NOTE: The left cupholder (one closest to rear of van) does not need to
be removed in order to remove the plastic panel; its screws into little
metal clips attached to the plastic panel.
4. Around the lower third of the plastic panel on the outside edges
are two screws (one on each side; phillips with washer). Remove the
plastic cap and unscrew.
5. Screw under heater duct. There may be a little screw through the
bottom inside portion of the panel beneath the heater duct circle. To
access this screw, pull off the louvered cover (held on by friction),
unscrew the black tube plastic piece which inserts into the rubber
heater duct (3 phillips screws), pull this black tube plastic piece off
the rubber heater duct, push the rubber heater duct upwards and look
for a screw underneath.
6. At the bottom of the plastic panel, there are several metal clip
brackets screwed to the floor. The bottom of the plastic panel slide
between the floor and these brackets via friction. At this point, the
panel should come out with a gentle horizontal to floor tug outwards
(don't pull up on panel as the little clips will just dig into the
panel).
7. The telephone wire will still be connected to the jack, and
depending on the length of the wire, you may need to disconnect from
jack or not.
F. So what's hidden behind the bottom plastic panel?
1. There are two rectangular pieces of white styrofoam materials glued
to the van body (there's a horizontal metal cross member at knee
height, so one piece above and one piece below). The styrofoam
material is about 1/4" thick or so. There's plenty of exposed exterior
van body metal around the pieces of styrofoam (not much insulation).
2. The left portion of the bottom styrofoam piece and surrounding
metal area has been spray-painted black. This is the area behind the
open slots in the plastic panel (next to the bottom portion of the back
seat). Presumably this black paint is to make sure that when the bench
seat is removed, you don't look through the open slots and see some
white styrofoam and silver paint. Paint doesn't adhere well to the
styrofoam material, so lots of black paint flakes.
3. Behind the heater duct exit (nearest the driver's seat), there's a
small rectangular hole in the floor below the heater duct which goes
into a white corrugated type duct for the heater air intake. There's
no filter (just the heater duct which runs about 1-2" above this
opening). Thus, air flows into the coach heater from the open slots in
the plastic panel next to the bench seat, through the open cavity
behind the plastic panel (with a piece of styrofoam glued to van body),
and down through the floor. Thus, the area behind the bottom portion
of the plastic panel is used as a large open area duct. Also, as the
van body framework is open in part, air would also circulate.
4. Along the bottom portion on the floor (would be hidden by the
bottom portion of the plastic panel which juts out) is the heater
duct. Just to the right of the open slots is a hole in the floor where
the heater duct comes upward into the van into a T, with a duct going
to the rear of the van and a duct going forward (ending in the heater
outlet of the plastic panel behind the driver's seat). The heater duct
is encased in a black spongy insulation cover, and rests off the floor
on two wood blocks (about 1-2" high).
5. The telephone wire is routed between the plastic panel and the van
body (better is to route along heater duct so plastic panel doesn't
bulge out, but you can't see that part of panel anyways).
6. Lots of dirt/dust (hopefully, the heater can take dirty air).
7. Some surface rust spots (sand lightly, painted)--presumably from
the leaky awning window.
8. With the plastic panel removed, you can also see a bit behind the
kitchen cabinet. The back of the bottom kitchen cabinet is about 8" or
so away from the inside part of the van body.
The kitchen floor on this side does not go all the way to the van body
(about 8" or so).
In this space are tons of bundled wires, heavy wires, heater duct,
water hoses, etc. Also, there's a metal mesh box with circuit boards
in it (can see better if remove the access panel behind the bench
seat), where the battery charger (?) plugs in.
The heater duct runs right beside the fresh water tank and the gray
water tank.
Again, at least on lower portion of van which was visible, not much
insulation except for a piece of styrofoam material glued to van body
with plenty of van body metal exposed.
For future installations of anything (solar?), this would probably be
where stuff could be run.