2004 Sprinter crank bolt snapped while on 101 fwy.

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Doktor A,
Yes, new bolt, new washer, new seal. I had an 18" breaker bar and I pulled a pipe over it to get more leverage.
That's a BIG bolt so I suspect you did not use a long enough pipe.

For the final 90 degrees, I use a 3/4 inch drive flex head Snap-On breaker bar, an impact grade 3/4 inch drive 27mm socket and an over 5 foot long thick wall cast iron pipe.

Doktor A
 

aspen

Member
That's a BIG bolt so I suspect you did not use a long enough pipe.

For the final 90 degrees, I use a 3/4 inch drive flex head Snap-On breaker bar, an impact grade 3/4 inch drive 27mm socket and an over 5 foot long thick wall cast iron pipe.

Doktor A
Doktor A,
Shall I just tighten it about 1/5 of a turn more? Or you would start over with a new bolt?
Thank you
Val
 

cousi

New member
Replacing the HB tomorrow, have all the parts but NOT the
locking tool. Is there any way to achieve that torque without
it? Anyone make their own tool?
Need to get the van back on the road, it's a work van.
Thanks
Mike
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Do you have access to a welder capable of welding 3/8 plate steel and is there someone you know who knows how to weld--AND I mean weld! Not grape shot imitations or what my Mexican mechanics call "soldadura frojoles"! (Bean welding!)

Do you have a torque wrench to get to 245 lbsf ft plus some serous tooling to take the bolt another 40 degrees on a torque to yield tightening exercise--That demands a 3/4 drive 27mm socket and a big bar. I use a 3/4 Snap On torque wrench grad to 500 ft lbs plus the tee bar for the angle tightening !
Dennis
 
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cousi

New member
Yes, I do have those, but I also want to do it right. Are you saying to make a tool like the MB one?

The thought of breaking a gear tooth doesn't set well with me. I'll order the tool if that's the way to
go. I can get it in two days.

Thank you
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
No in short!
Instructions
Flame cut a disc the size of the damper use 3/8 MS plate.
Cut a hole in the middle to accept a deep 3/4 drive socket.
Cut three 1/2 inch tangs also in 3/8 MS plate that will engage against the spokes of the damper in unison and pass through to almost touch the timing case.

Weld the tangs to the disc so that when the disc is offered to the damper they hold the spokes.
Now take a piece of iron plumbers 1/14 pipe and weld it to one side of the disc.
That's a handle and will touch the ground when your fabbed tool is offered up to the damper pulley insitu on the crank.
Now tighten your crank bolt to the required spec and you are done.

It can be used for removal but you will need extra long tangs for the dual pulley damper.
Just a caution!
If you are a pi$$ poor non trained welder the tool will most likely break and expect torn up hands if it lets go.
Time to make is approximately two to three hours.
We make lots of tools to accomplish jobs like this.
Dennis
 

talkinghorse43

Active member
No in short!
Instructions
Flame cut a disc the size of the damper use 3/8 MS plate.
Cut a hole in the middle to accept a deep 3/4 drive socket.
Cut three 1/2 inch tangs also in 3/8 MS plate that will engage against the spokes of the damper in unison and pass through to almost touch the timing case.

Weld the tangs to the disc so that when the disc is offered to the damper they hold the spokes.
Now take a piece of iron plumbers 1/14 pipe and weld it to one side of the disc.
That's a handle and will touch the ground when your fabbed tool is offered up to the damper pulley insitu on the crank.
Now tighten your crank bolt to the required spec and you are done.

It can be used for removal but you will need extra long tangs for the dual pulley damper.
Just a caution!
If you are a pi$$ poor non trained welder the tool will most likely break and expect torn up hands if it lets go.
Time to make is approximately two to three hours.
We make lots of tools to accomplish jobs like this.
Dennis
That's going to put a lot of shear on the crank key. Those keys have been known to fail from only the shear provided by the accessories.
 

SeekingZero

New member
Hey guys,

Sorry the resurrect an old thread but this just happened on my Sprinter. Can anyone explain a bit how to Dremel out the old bolt? As in, what bit or attachment? Pictures would be great.
 

220629

Well-known member
... Does anyone have a preferred metal bonding epoxy to fix the keyway?
Do an advanced search in the Write-up section. There have been members who have used partial keys, or made their own.

The key is for establishing an index. Once the parts are properly torqued with additional angle there is little or no stress on the key.

:2cents: vic
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Double check that the timing chain key is not slipped. If it is, the engine will run poorly.

First gen mazda miata owners have a chronic issue with slipped crank keyways. There is a common repair using a loctite product, I would give it a google.
 

SeekingZero

New member
Double check that the timing chain key is not slipped. If it is, the engine will run poorly.

First gen mazda miata owners have a chronic issue with slipped crank keyways. There is a common repair using a loctite product, I would give it a google.
Half of the key is still underneath the time chain gear and its still lined up. Let me know if there is more I should be looking for. Of the pair of keys I ordered, I cut one in half and filed it down to fit and JB kwik-welded it in place. After a day, I filed down the new keyway square and put the new HB on. Tomorrow the flywheel lock should come and I can get it put back together.
 

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