Harmonic Balancer

PATECO

Member
This does not answer your question.

I don't believe that all parts need to be OEM or from a dealership, but sometimes it just makes sense.

Given your recent experience, why would you not buy an OEM or at least the same manufacturer as OEM?

You may not be as lucky with minimal damage with future non-OEM failures.

vic
OK, where do I order an OEM balancer. all I find on line are the Doorman and Dayco versions.
 

obie

'04 long & tall passenger
Maybe the dealer? It's a long shot.
I got mine from the Dodge dealer. Freightliner dealers can get them, maybe even a MB dealer?
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
If you need to press on after discovering a HB problem there may be a response to a loss of rubber bond on the harmonic balancer. The ring can be removed and the Sprinter driven with the ring missing.

At least it worked for Alexk243. I personally would keep my speeds/rpm down a bit. I have no data.

So the outside ring on the harmonic balancer is loose and spinning freely... Appears the bolt is tight... How much time do I have? I am 500 miles from home.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
How high is up?

The proper answer is that it needs to be repaired. If it comes loose it can do a bunch of damage.

One possibility. The ring will pass over the serpentine belt pulley. Remove the serpentine belt, remove the separated ring, and re-install the belt.

That should get rid of the balancer failing.

Were I to try that I would keep my speeds down to 55 mph to keep engine rpm's down. That said, there may be rpm ranges where more vibration is noticed than in others. If discovered I would avoid those ranges.

There must be many people who have run the T1N with a partially failed harmonic balancer which wasn't doing the job.

To be clear. I have never tried what I suggest above. I have no idea what the risks of trying it may be.

Good luck.

vic
So I have no reception and Wi-Fi but I guess I reached the same conclusion that you guys did. I drove 50 miles on it to an awesome diesel mechanic shop and they took the belt off and removed the ring. They also made sure the harmonic balancer was on there tight. After that (10 mins or so haha) I headed back and made the last 500 miles or so safely. Noticed a lot higher vibration as I approached 70 mph so stayed well below that.

You can see the ring removed on the floor of the shop by the driver door.



Thanks for the quick responses guys. Sorry I could only check it when I was at a place with Wi-Fi

Now my next question is what harmonic balancer is recommend for replacement? I am fine paying more so this does not happen again. Any thoughts?
As always, clicking the blue arrow icon within any quote box will take you to the original post/thread.
 
Last edited:

alexk243

KulAdventure
I bought the tool and had no problems. Swing out the radiator, remove the fan, replaced the HB, water pump, alternator, resonator, belt tensioner, belt and anything else while I had it open. No problem with any of it, got the parts at Europarts SD.
It took a whole case of beer to do it.:cheers::cheers::cheers:
What is the process for swinging out the radiator?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
You don't need to remove the rad'!
In fact you don't even need to remove the fan and cowl either if its the rack or over a pit!

But if you are having "bash" for the first time, then remove the fan & cowl and there is plenty of room to change it out.

Put a piece of carton or packing box cut off over the inner radiator matrix to protect the fins.
Professional mechanic time is 1.5 hours
See how you get on and all the best !:thumbup:
Dennis
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
On the very bottom of the bell housing there is an opening where you insert the lock. the lock itself engages with two bolts which are currently installed in the bell housing they are almost vertical. Back the bolts out and install the lock onto them. The hole itself is where the starter would go if you had a manual transmission sprinter so there should be a small opening where you can stick your fingers in and fell the teeth on the outside of the flexplate. if you look at the lock it has a series of small teeth which engage in the teeth on the outside of the flexplate. it's a bit of a brain stretch but you should be able to figure out how it aligns based on those.

The photos on this Amazon listing give you a rough idea of how the lock installs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089PY4XM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Last edited:

alexk243

KulAdventure
Thanks, I was able to find it. Someone mentioned somewhere else on the web where it went haha. Cant believe no one ever mentions it. Seems like everyone already knew where it went. Anyways I found and it was real easy and worked great.

Knocked out the harmonic balancer (seal, bolt, washer), water pump, pulleys, tensioner, serpentine belt in an afternoon. Didnt have to remove the radiator or swing it out. Just add some space like most people have done on here.

So I didnt buy the big torque wrench though... was able to get the old one off easily enough without a puller (hammer, pry bar, etc...). I went to a local diesel shop in Chicago equiped with my parts and asked him how much to just install the HB and torque it down, he wanted $700+ (6 hours of work), so I said no thanks Ill do the whole thing in less time, including water pump etc. However I did ask him if I get it tight enough would he torque it down for me and he said yeah for $40, which I am ok with. He has a 600 ft-lb torque wrench for semi trucks so should work. The place is under a mile from my house so I think it will be find if I get the HB as tight as I can with a breaker bar. Thoughts on that move?

Here is the work almost done:

 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Whoa!
DO NOT BODGE!:thumbdown:

That bolt must be torqued to spec which means putting it into a stretched condition.
The factory is quite specific about this torque rating.
Failure to adhere to the required spec and wing it often means that the balance will come off, damage the crank nose section where it is mounted.

In so many cases DIY'r repairs on Sprinters are unsuccessful because precise procedures are not followed.
Try to do it right first time.
My suggestion is to go back in , slacken the bolt then re-torque to spec.
Dennis
 

alexk243

KulAdventure
Whoa!
DO NOT BODGE!:thumbdown:

That bolt must be torqued to spec which means putting it into a stretched condition.
The factory is quite specific about this torque rating.
Failure to adhere to the required spec and wing it often means that the balance will come off, damage the crank nose section where it is mounted.

In so many cases DIY'r repairs on Sprinters are unsuccessful because precise procedures are not followed.
Try to do it right first time.
My suggestion is to go back in , slacken the bolt then re-torque to spec.
Dennis
Right... That was my plan that I mentioned above, but I need to drive it under a mile to the shop that has the tool.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Rather than put it all together to drive it one mile and have to pull most of it apart again and then refit the locking tool could you not persuade the garage to bring the torque wrench to you for your $40?

Worth asking?

Keith.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Is it really that risky to drive it that short of a distance? Its on there really tight, Breaker bar with 27mm deep socket.
If you can get 150ft lbs you should be fine for a short low rpm drive. Keep the a.c. off. My factory bolt was only on that tight!
 

Top Bottom