No Drill Roof racks

[KandiVan]

What a great thread.
#1 - the rivnut reference above with rusted holes is due to the galvanic action between the aluminum rivnut and the steel body panel. Painting the hole before installing the rivnut would help but not likely eliminate the issue. I hoping it works well as I've used rivnuts for mounting 1 step.

#2 - So, I'm in here looking for 3M VHB testimonials, and (a type number) you have not disappointed! The post below from another site lead me to investigate some more: "We laid out the location of our panels in advance and used 3M VHB tape on the brackets to adhere them to the roof. Alternatively, you can drill holes into your roof, but this is much more time-consuming and unnecessary. Seal all brackets and your cable glands with dicor lap sealant to prevent water contamination. " This would mean only about 8 sq in of tape per panel! Since my panel bracket locations do not line up with the roof ribs, I'm considering a 1"x1" aluminum tube to bolt the panels to and then 3M VHB at every rib to mounting tube contact point fo about 12 sq in of tape per panel.

 

[Bachmobile]

Interesting reading the ideas!
What about this approach: Tap threads into the factory-installed mounting metal tubes? I'm talking about the holes where bolts and nuts are normally used to attach the rails. I'm thinking of tapping threads into the mounting points - it looked like they are not just sheet metal, but longer tubes.
By creating threads, and then using loctite, hey presto - secured roof rails without needing to access the bottom of the roof...
Appreciate any/all reactions
best
John

 

[Pedalpimp]

Interesting reading the ideas!
What about this approach: Tap threads into the factory-installed mounting metal tubes? I'm talking about the holes where bolts and nuts are normally used to attach the rails. I'm thinking of tapping threads into the mounting points - it looked like they are not just sheet metal, but longer tubes.
By creating threads, and then using loctite, hey presto - secured roof rails without needing to access the bottom of the roof...
Appreciate any/all reactions
best
John

I don't think the tubes that you are referring to are metal, they are the bottoms of the plastic plugs that are used by the factory to plug the holes.

 

[Motormad]

While the VHB tape may well be strong enough to stick the rails to the paint on the van, how well is the paint stuck? There have been cases in the UK among the van conversion community where solar panels have been "stuck" to the roof with no mechanical fixings, and have become dislodged, removing the paint in the process. Do you really want the vehicle following you to be hit by the contents of your roof?

As for sealing the rail, butyl tape does an excellent job and is permanently flexible to ensure zero leaks. Run the full length of the rail, and it will also help "stick" it down with mechanical fixings

 

[Shawn182]

Interesting reading the ideas!
What about this approach: Tap threads into the factory-installed mounting metal tubes? I'm talking about the holes where bolts and nuts are normally used to attach the rails. I'm thinking of tapping threads into the mounting points - it looked like they are not just sheet metal, but longer tubes.
By creating threads, and then using loctite, hey presto - secured roof rails without needing to access the bottom of the roof...
Appreciate any/all reactions
best
John

It is just thin sheet metal, no tubes and nothing to tap. Any tube you are seeing is remnants of the plastic caps.

Depending on what the load is, Plus Nuts (NOT Rivnuts) would be the only possible solution IMO...but that would be for a light load like a few solar panels at most and not a heavy load.

Anyone that suggest only using an adhesive to attach something on the roof...remember, you are not adhering to the metal of the roof, you are adhering only to the paint job. Good luck.

 

[Lagom]

the only possible solution IMO

Perhaps well nuts in unaltered holes, with a 3M VHB tape thickness chosen to match the raised rim of the well nut?

 

[Shawn182]

Perhaps well nuts in unaltered holes, with a 3M VHB tape thickness chosen to match the raised rim of the well nut?

Maybe a Jack Nut but not a wet nut. Personally ould not trust the degradation of rubber against the sharp edges of sheet metal.