2015 170” DirtDevil Build

Boxster1971

2023 Sprinter 2500 144wb AWD
... What drawing software did you use? ....
George - I checked the properties of the file that casmith32 posted and it was drawn by Microsoft Visio 2010. Its a great product for wiring diagrams, wish I still had access to a copy.
 

casmith32

Member
Correct - the purpose is to disco charge sources as temps approach freezing - since it's not good for LifePO4 batteries. DC loads other than the inverter AC loads will continue to be allowed to run. The AC loads via the inverter would be shut off along with the charging since it goes through the EV200 relay.

Ideally I'd be using a Victron Inverter, which has relay / signal contacts that let you remotely tell the inverter to cut off charging or inverting. But I already have the Magnum 2000 (anyone want to buy it ? :) brand new ) so I have to run with what I have. Magnum doesn't have the ability to remotely control it like that, only via it's remote panel

good point on the relay in summer - It is a conundrum to have things connected (to the relay) this way in the summer as well - but I think it'll be okay for now I'm willing to give it a go this way. Only other solution I've tinkered with is I found a silicone heating pad that has an internal tstat with it; I was going to have under the batteries or on the sides - had it in the design, but wasn't sure I liked it vs the relay.

It certainly overcomes the "not needed in summer issue". I'm going to test it and see how it works before I consider adding it back into the design. but it's something to consider.

Solar should keep the batteries okay during the winter/summer most times. I can actually just disco most power draws when the van isn't in use to preserve battery.




The 500 A relay consumes 3 AH per day. Is the purpose to disconnect when low temperatures? Do you need it otherwise, like summer?

The battery spec states operational to -4F. You only disconnect charging sources, not loads, right? In other words, you can discharge the battery below -4F, but not charge them?
 

casmith32

Member
Thanks George - it's done in MS Visio - windows product. I'm going to look at draw.io that someone pointed out to me as an alternative - pros and cons...

Your diagram looks very good, I am not familiar with all of the Victron components so it is difficult for me to digest. Is your 500A relay a latching one, non-latching relays could have high current draw to maintain the ON position if this is NO type relay, well, I am sure you know that but just in case.

What drawing software did you use?

Congratulation on well documented schematic, it will pay you back in the future for a potential troubleshooting.

Irontent - good point about BlueSea USB outlet, I didn't know. Which USB model has such high draw? I recently purchase the fast charging one https://www.bluesea.com/products/1045/Fast_Charge_-_Dual_USB_Charger_Socket_Mount, will need to measure the draw and add a switch if necessary.

George. Just read the spec, the Blue Sea 1045 has the parasitic current draw of 1mA, so no disconnect switch.
 

casmith32

Member
The Blue Sea ones are an option - good point - I'm looking at the possibility of replacing the ev200 with a sterling-power Prolatch-R programmable relay - as it's latching as well and more importantly very programmable...

but you are right - either is a good alternative to mitigate the parasitic power draw to maintain the relay closed. the prolatch-r has a max of 240A (http://www.sterling-power-usa.com/SterlingPowerUSA-ProLatch-R.aspx) - something I'll think about either way...


You might consider one of the Blue Sea ML series of switches which are latching. I've used the 7700 one to switch the battery connection to my inverter via a remote switch. Works great with no drain (other than at the actual time of switching states).
 

casmith32

Member
Follow up on proper harness to use for the "radio prep" OEM option - most folks don't get this, but a factory radio; however if you do, you just need a $5 harness !! you want to get the following:

Metra 70-1784 Radio Wiring Harness
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQKM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bringing it all together:

Last bit of wiring, getting the USB/AUX and HDMI extensions wired into the center console... pretty easy..
View attachment 70616

Ran the wiring in the floor to the passenger seat where the amp goes. Ran power over to driver side and tapped into the switched 12v+. Grounded to grounding posts in the passenger seat pedestal. will fabricate mounting and such later... as I have two 50Ah LifePo4 batts going in there too.... I left extra slack for now in cables since I'm not sure if this will be the final location for the amp. I may try and fit more batteries in there.
View attachment 70617

Now comes the fun part - installing the head unit and making all the connections…The biggest frustration I had initially was the fact that I couldn’t find out what the extra pin was in my factory harness. The Upfit manual describes the pinout for a “Radio Prep” package, and doesn’t show pin1 being populated. Says it’s N.C. After mining the forums, MB, and the internet, I finally found a schematic that represents the wiring I found in my van.
View attachment 70615

It looks like Pin 1 goes to the CANBUS computer or something. I tested it and it gets 12v+ when ignition is off; Then voltage drops as soon as you put the key in the ignition. Nevertheless, I punted on trying to determine what Pin 1 was for and just continued; never used it for anything. Got wiring harness connections done and plugged everything in. Once I got everything up and running and tested, the last thing was to get the steering wheel controls to work.


Steering Wheel Controls

I learned that a lot of installers go with the PAC Audio interface. I chose to run with the Axxess ASWC-1. More simple, and I didn’t need to buy additional components for it to work.
View attachment 70618

The install of the ASWC-1 only required basically 5 connections:
  • 12+ - tied into harness 12v ACC wire
  • Ground - tied into harness ground wire
  • CAN H (BLU/PNK) - spliced into Hazard Panel Pin 3 - Blue/Pink wire
  • CAN L (PNK) - spliced into the Hazard Panel Pin 4 - Brown/Red wire
  • 3.5 mm aux cable - connected to the Head Unit’s 3.5mm input

The CanBus connections are on the back of the Hazard panel/module that sits below the A/C control panel..
Once I got things wired up properly, I fired up everything. Programming the Steering Wheel controls with the ASWC-1 was easy….after I called support to help me interpret the instructions. The by product of such a simple solution, is that there aren’t a bunch of buttons and such to program it and map the buttons to the functions you want. Thus programming is done mainly through your steering wheel buttons. It took a bit to understand how to do it…but it’s not bad once you understand how it works.

View attachment 70619

Got things programmed the way I wanted and now I have full volume up/down; Hang up button - seek (for when I’m traveling and don’t know the stations); and Pick up button - Siri Hands-Free for iPhone.

Really liking the whole setup. The Pioneer Nex platform rocks! I tested the whole system out and still have some tweaking to do with the amp.

Follow ups
  • I am getting some vibrations in the doors when hitting the lows at a higher volume. I will remove the door panels later and add some more sound deadening to the actual door panels and maybe add some more insulation behind the speakers.
  • Also am noticing that there are some issues with the USB extension I put in. Not sure if it’s my phone, the head unit software, or the cable, but my Iphone keeps dropping the carplay connection. I’ll probably pull the unit and make sure the plug is secure.
  • I’m looking at installing another rear view camera near the license plate and/or splitting out the high rear view camera signal to a rear view mirror lcd so I can have a “virtual” window into traffic behind the van.

Next up is the (2) maxxfan deluxe installs….
 

Wolf_Racer

New member
Been a long while since i've been able to get back on track and post progress on the van. Got pulled away helping others build their vans...go figure.
More to come on the build, but for now, multiple folks have asked for an updated electrical plan for my build... it's definitely evolved from the first renditions... after a lot of research and collaboration I've attached the almost final design. I don't expect it changing much...barring any blatant errors I missed, which I'm sure folks on here will be quick to point out :)

diagram here - View attachment 81732

A couple details
- the system has been designed to cut off charging sources in the event of freezing temps
- ME-BMS battery monitor will utilize the Victron Shunt if possible.
- DC load cutoffs rely on BP220, and internal Magnum inverter threshold settings

Hope this is helpful - I welcome feedback
This is an excellent diagram. I am doing something similar but not exactly. Anyway you could post or send the actual visio file so I can use it to modify to my setup? Would save me a ton of time!

Thanks!
 
Casmith32,

Have you ever considered the Victron Inverter/charger for your build in stead of Magnum Energy MS200?

I have been studying your electrical design and lean toward your design. I notice that you have Victron Color control GX for your solar power system. Instead of having ME-ACR50 and ME-BMK, I like to have all in one unit, CCGX, to monitor the inverter, charger, solar system and battery.

My goal is to learn as much as I can before I start my build. My order of the van is still up in the air. It was ordered in September 2016 and so far there is no production date yet.

Thank you for posting your design on the forum.

Daniel
 

casmith32

Member
I have considered the Victron inverter/charger and that is my preference - however I'd already purchased the magnum a while before I learned about the victron products. Victron is definitely my preference. Particularly the ability to remotely trigger the charge/invert functions via a relay - which is pivotal for controlling charging at freezing temps for Li-ion batteries.

If I could find someone to buy my magnum inverter, I'd go with the victron for sure... but for now I'll use the magnum... It's not the best overall scenario but it will work just fine...especially since I don't have victron lithium ion batteries in the mix...

Casmith32,

Have you ever considered the Victron Inverter/charger for your build in stead of Magnum Energy MS200?

I have been studying your electrical design and lean toward your design. I notice that you have Victron Color control GX for your solar power system. Instead of having ME-ACR50 and ME-BMK, I like to have all in one unit, CCGX, to monitor the inverter, charger, solar system and battery.

My goal is to learn as much as I can before I start my build. My order of the van is still up in the air. It was ordered in September 2016 and so far there is no production date yet.

Thank you for posting your design on the forum.

Daniel
 

irontent

Member
A couple details

- ME-BMS battery monitor will utilize the Victron Shunt if possible.

Hope this is helpful - I welcome feedback
I reviewed your diagram again and noticed, along with your comments, that you plan to connect the shunt to two different monitoring systems.

I suspect that this might be a problem (IMHO), as the voltage drop across the shunt is very small, resulting in the very small values that are induced in the sensor side of the shunt wiring. Working / not working will depend on the input impedance of each monitor. Coupling the input of both monitoring systems might cause erroneous readings. To insure proper operation, it might be worth a call to both Magnum and Victron to inquire about their experience of sharing a shunt.

To create alternatives, you should consider leaving space for a second shunt wired in series with the one you have planned, just in case.

Let us know how it works out.
 

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