Hidden Hitch for 140 w/ rear step bumper

bstory

New member
Hidden Hitch for 140 w/OUT rear step bumper

I read this thread with interest Seek, since it seems like we could use this hidden hitch even though we do not have a rear step bumper - it's benefits being it just bolts on.

I realize we'd see more of it without the step bumper but is there any other reason not to do this?

We have a 2006 140" 2500.

Anyone else with experience with this bolt-on hitch Sikwan used think this would work?
 

sikwan

06 T1N Can
Re: Hidden Hitch for 140 w/OUT rear step bumper

I realize we'd see more of it without the step bumper but is there any other reason not to do this?
That and maybe a Curt one that has a higher capacity. Some drilling is required for the Curt.

You could also price a rear step bumper as an option.
 

rjz5400

Member
VERY old bump.

I found that not only does my 2003 Freightliner 3500 have the step bumper mounted on the OUTSIDE, where the HH75210 (or similar) listed at the beginning of this thread is supposed to mount, but my frame is roughly 33" wide. not the 41" or so the hitch uses.

AMAZON free easy return but so very pissed about the wasted time and effort to get it and now package it back up and return it. SHHHHHH

be sure to check the measurements on the frame before buying. Again my 3500 rail width is different. {I got distracted by the 118" dilemma and didn't check measurements before ordering, only bracket location}

I believe the only one that fits is the Curt 13265 it is inside the rails and may need some tuning to the spare or bumper bracket to clear but some have reported it works both with the spare and the step bumper
 
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rjz5400

Member
I did install the Curt 13265, it was almost the same price as the other listed on this thread. I did have to drill two new holes and enlarge two others. I used the supplied fish tape to get the bolts and plates in place and they worked well.


The mods required were a very slight grinding of the surface of the backing plates. So minor in fact you could do it easily with a round file. and secondly the spare tire holder will need to be modified, it seems like a couple of cuts and bends and the existing frame can be welded back together to hold the tire in the same spot. basically the corners of the bracket hit the bottom of the Hitch. I may post a writeup of my experience as there isn't one out there I could find.
 

Lowkeyfilms

New member
Just installed a Curt Class 3 Rear Mounting Towing Trailer Hitch 2 inch Receiver Part # 13265
Real pain.

Had to take off the spare tire and the metal bumper holder. (I messed with it for a couple of hours then took it to the local trailer shop)
They also said it was a bad deal
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
To add to Sikwan's already great thread. :thumbup:

Reese Hitch Install 2004 Dodge and 2006 Freightliner 140 2500

I learned from Sikwan that there are Cequent hitches under different brand names. No drilling needed. My 2004 has a Cequent hitch (Hidden Hitch brand name) installed 2008. It has been fine although it is now a bit rusty. So that is good enough for my new to me 2006. Both of the Cequent hitches fit/installed easily. I could say that they installed "without a hitch", but that would be contrary to the end result.

The exact same hitch was listed under Hidden Hitch 87647 (listed Class III and IV? So at least Class III.), Draw-Tite 75210, Reese 33089 all made by Cequent. For the 2006 I went with Reese brand because it included free shipping and had a $25 rebate special on Amazon ($168.00).

My wife was mowing the lawn so I didn't want to interrupt that. I have no friends which meant that I needed to install the hitch by myself. It went well. The install took under an hour which included greasing the heck out of all the frame surfaces, bolts, washers, and nuts. Not one whore or bastard was summoned by me during the entire process.

My 2006 doesn't have a step bumper (yet). The spare tire was not in the carrier rack. The Cequent hitch doesn't interfere at all with the spare tire hanger frames. I didn't need to jack up the Sprinter. I brushed grease on the frame surfaces where the hitch plates would be in contact. I greased all the individual fastener parts before installation.

I used a Kitty Litter plastic container to hold the driver side of the hitch up basically in position near the frame rail. That re-purposed container normally sees service as a dry storage box for my inflatable boats.

BucketSupport.jpg

I then raised the passenger side up into position. I used a long 1/4-20 stove bolt as a temporary pin to hang that side.

After the temporary pin was in I went back to the driver side. I raised that up and also used a 1/4-20 bolt as a pin.

With both sides temporarily supported by the temporary pins, I moved the Kitty Litter container support over to the hitch receiver area. By dumb luck that kept the hitch in an almost perfect position. From there I just needed to move the hitch plate ends around a bit to install all the proper bolts. They aligned surprisingly easily. I installed the included Bellville washers against the hitch plate. The flat washers are against the Sprinter frame rail.

Even if you have two people I would suggest it is worth using a set of temporary 1/4-20 pins.

After all the bolts were in place I used a 1/2" plywood spacer on top of the Kitty Litter box to adjust/hold the hitch level. All fasteners were tightened to 75 ft lb per the instructions.

Tools/parts

2 ea. long 1/4-20 bolts with washers for temporary hanging.
1 ea. Kitty litter container for temporary support. (or similar with cribbing to adjust height)
Grease or Never-sieze.
3/4" offset box wrench. (optional)
3/4" open end or box wrench.
3/4" deep socket.
Torque Wrench 75 ft. lb.

Very easy job.
:cheers: vic

Added for NAS aka NAFTA 2007 and newer NCV3 general information.

Drawtite Hitch Etrailer, part # 75601 fits on the outsides of the frame. It is good for the step bumper.

Drawtite Hitch #75549 fits on the inside of the frame. It will not fit with the step bumper.

Double check the above info before ordering your 2500 or 3500 NCV3 hitch. At least it provides some numbers to start a search.

Added:
Reese, Hidden Hitch Cequent pics for reference.

CequentReeseHitch01.jpg

CequentReeseHitch02.jpg
 
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CJPJ

2008 3500 170"ext. 3.0 V6 OM642.993
Vic, if you can use this .. a new/never been used Reese 2in Chrome Hitch Ball, 1in shank, 6000lb capacity image.png
.. In appreciation for your forum works, this unused, neglected, extra and sitting on a shell for years, 2in. hitch ball, is yours.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Vic, if you can use this .. a new/never been used Reese 2in Chrome Hitch Ball, 1in shank, 6000lb capacity View attachment 76332
.. In appreciation for your forum works, this unused, neglected, extra and sitting on a shell for years, 2in. hitch ball, is yours.
That's very generous and thoughtful of you. :thumbup:

After many years I actually already have all the balls that I will need for a lifetime.


:cheers: vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
I thought this information may be of help to someone finding this thread when trying to select a hitch.

We have been talking about the Curt hitch.
It's really not the work of the devil.
...
The Curt hitch is fine. The comment was made that Curt is a "more sturdy design" vs Cequent. My reply was related to that comment.

I was trying to decide between the Cequent hitch and the Curt. From what I've read, the Curt is probably the more sturdy design with the extra mount points and larger square Tubing compared to the Cequent rectangle Tubing, but the Cequent is easier to install. I figured if it didn't stick out, maybe it would be the better choice. If it sticks out as much as the Curt, may as well get the Curt.
Both the 2004 and 2006 Cequent hitches which I installed have been fine.

The NCV3 Curt hitch in this thread didn't do so well.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74743
That said, we don't know how badly it's been abused.
...
So let's look at which is more sturdy.
They are different designs.

The Curt hitch has a straight square shape. The pull is directly against the center.

The Cequent design uses a rectangular shape with some formed angles to change the stresses. Using formed shapes can increase the load rating of a given material.

At the receiver, the Cequent has 2 ea. plates welded to the rectangular main beam shape vs one plate on the Curt. Two plates distribute stresses differently vs one.

To carry the tongue weight, the vertical walls of the Cequent hitch rectangle shape are equal to the Curt square walls. (generally for design both need to match to the receiver tube.)

Some pictures.

CequentReeseHitch01.jpg

CequentReeseHitch02.jpg

CequentReeseHitch03.jpg

CurtHitch01.jpg

CurtHitch02.jpg


Is one more sturdy than the other? :idunno: The designs are different.

The Curt appears to stick out a bit further from the bumper than the Cequent. The Curt requires drilling. The Cequent doesn't. The Cequent design probably has less visible parts when looking at the rear bumper area. The Curt design probably provides a bit more bump protection.

To my knowledge either design will give good service as both have a good reputation.

:cheers: vic
 
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niagara

2006 118WB

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