Intermittent Engine Start Problem - 2010 Winnebago ERA

We have a 2010 Winnebago ERA (2008 MB chassis Sprinter 2500). In the last 2 years in the course of putting on over 20000 miles we have had around 6 no-start issues. We cannot identify a pattern for the condition under which it occurs nor the reason why we then have the ability to start it except for the passage of time. We have the Aux Battery Boost capability on this model, one less than 2 yr old chassis battery and one house battery and a Trik-L-Start installed by us after 3 or 4 start problems. We are not electrically troubleshooting astute but followed a great forum post for installation. We have searched the forums and found numerous possible solutions (battery, solenoid, starter, alternator, wiring harness, etc.) but need to narrow it down.
First, the symptoms. Always occurs away from home after having driven variable amounts of miles. Start up after winter storage had no issues and we had not disconnected the battery and instead intermittently started it successfully during storage. We have only boondocked once in all of those miles (this past Saturday) and the van started up immediately in the morning after no generator use but then occurred several hours later when we made a stop for breakfast. I couldn’t find anything detailed on Trik-L-Start status indicators blinking but did notice that rather than steady green (maintaining) or yellow (charging) that it seemed to be blinking yellow all night. Again, it started right up in the morning so we don’t see how this is battery related.
When it happens we have normal dash indicators in normal brightness. Ceiling light driven off chassis battery when door opens goes on normally. We try aux battery boost (holding it down). Nothing. We jiggle the key in the ignition. We change the gear to neutral and try and then park again. We get no cranking sounds. Just clicks. We have not hit the starter with a hammer yet. And then time (minutes or seconds) passes and magically it starts on that attempt. One time it started after I flipped the house battery master switch off and then on but that didn’t do anything the next time. One time long ago it did start with aux battery booster but we think it was just coincidence. We normally just go through all the unrelated fixes for 5 minutes or so but in the end it really just starts.
Where should we start?
 
UPDATE: The light on the TRIK-L-START was blinking GREEN (maintaining) not yellow. The sprinter failed to start today after driving it 30 miles away and returning home. Checked battery at jumpstart location and it was 12.8V. Goes to 12.75 when key is turning. This time it started after turning the radio on. We've never tried that one before so again we can't say it's related. Have a trip to Maine for tomorrow and am afraid to go anywhere with it without having a backup plan for starting it. Any ideas?
 

showkey

Well-known member
Sounds a lot like this post:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39528

No resolution post yet by the DR.
Same checks would apply to your starting issue. Other than you most likely do not have a remote start.

Very likely the radio has nothing to do with the starting. Just sitting with the key might do the same thing ? Starter relay maybe intermittent in the internal contacts closing ?

battery condition ? 12.8 sounds like it's fully charged
Battery cables and connections ? Simple dirty post or connection, loose connection, this would be both POS and NEG and ground strap.
Clean the ground strap connections and both ends ?
Starter itself ?
Starter Solenoid ?
Connections at starter ?
Starter Relay ?


There are several other posts trying to isolate the problem by checking voltage drop during cranking, checking voltage at the solenoid during cranking ( both the battery and start signal lead), checking the Y cable for voltage drop.
 
It's definitely not the radio. Just tried that when it died again. No dice. Also looked under the seat at the large cable connections. Everything is clean and tight.
 

showkey

Well-known member
Died again ? Is this a no crank (as turn the key click) as stated in the first post or is it stopping on the highway or something else ?????
 
Last edited:
It's a no crank. Starts up after some short period of time passes. We can hear a couple of clicks, and some fan or possibly fuel pump is running under the hood. All of the display lights come on during that time and then most go out. We have a TPMS error but that we know is related to tire pressure which has been adjusted.
 
Tried something different this morning. Had a no start. Turned key to position one. SRS light lit. Waited until it went away. Turned the rest of the way and it started right up. Didn't run it. Waited a half hour and tried again. Again no start. Repeated position 1 wait for light out and immediate start.
 

Ivessm

2005 140 HighTop Pass
Just guessing here but the clicking you get when trying to start seems to be a lack of sufficient voltage to engage the starter. This can be caused by either the POSITIVE or NEGATIVE electrical paths running into a connection causing a high resistance and thus limiting the amount of current flow through the errant connection. Remember, it takes both the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE electrical path to complete the circuit.

This high resistance might only be on the electrical path to the Starter/Starter Solenoid and not feeding any other circuit throughout the van. It would be wise to remake those connections between the battery and the starter and pay special attention to any covered connection joints that might be in the circuit. Be VERY CAREFUL when working on ANY POSITIVE connection. A simple touch of the end of a wrench to the body/frame of the vehicle and you are going to find out the wondrous and colorful power of electricity. :popcorn: :popcorn:

Once all the connections are remade and verified and if you are still getting the click click then the obvious is the Starter/Starter Solenoid.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
I can fairly consistently start the vehicle by waiting until the SRS light goes out before finishing the move to position 2. This is the only consistent pattern for starting so far. What is happening when SRS light goes on and then off? Perhaps it relates to the next relay in the process?
 
Third day of consistent start capability. We are waiting 5-10 seconds in between key position 1 and 2. This is a major positive thing.
 
We are still able to start the sprinter after pausing at key position 1 for several seconds. Took it to the Dodge dealer for the 30K mile servicing and they did a scan. The no start condition occurred and we got the following codes as active: 4759, 4804,U0100, U110B, 9022. I've seen posts on the ECM going bad but want to do more research before landing on that as a first and costly solution.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Guy
I am sure there is a TSB on this problem issued by MB.
I have a list of issues and TSB's!
Your problem might be included in the "list of woes"!
(TSB - S-B-54.10/243b)

Dodgy boys won't have it.

I will try to see if I can find some details on it.
Dennis
 

showkey

Well-known member
PC ^^^^^^^^^^^

Did they give an explanation for each of those codes ? The u codes are communication codes but the others ?
 
Last edited:

lindenengineering

Well-known member
The TSB refers to battery and charging issues resulting in intermittent starting.
I suppose it begs the question do you still have the original MB battery the van?
Defective batteries and terminal connections are refered to.

Jist of the bulletin

Sample Data Sample Repair Order
Terminal stamp... 06/05
Batt.part no. ... A000 545 82 12
Midtronics test code... HGP4QBS-9QPUHXB
(EXP717)
54 1108 Check starter battery for condition
Terminal stamp:..06/05..
Batt. part no.:..A0005458212..
Test code:..HGP4QBS-9QPUHXB (EXP717)
Dealer text
HGP4QBS-9QPUHXB A0005458212 06/05 CUST STATES NO CRANK NO START,
54 1108 CHECK START BATT CONDITION, REPLACED FAULTY BATTERY
*It is imperative that the hyphen “-“ remains in the battery test code
5. When testing the alternator (15 5010 or 15 5015) record battery data and Midtronics test code after
any negative Midtronics findings. Again, any warranty claims should include the battery data in the
beginning of the claim text field and the Midtronics test code should be entered in the “DTC field” of
the claim.

All the best
Dennis
 

calbiker

Well-known member
Agreed, it sounds like a cable/resistance problem. I had several similar no-start issues. Mine always happened after driving a long time, stopping (for fuel) and then trying to start again. I have to activate the boost switch to connect the house battery in order to start the T1N. If the vehicle is in a state where it won't start with just the chassis battery and I let it sit overnight, the Sprinter will start right up the next morning.

I haven't had any more start problems after loosening the battery ground strap to chassis and re-tightening it.

Just guessing here but the clicking you get when trying to start seems to be a lack of sufficient voltage to engage the starter. This can be caused by either the POSITIVE or NEGATIVE electrical paths running into a connection causing a high resistance and thus limiting the amount of current flow through the errant connection. Remember, it takes both the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE electrical path to complete the circuit.
 

Ho-Hum

Member
Sounds like my problem. Been intermittently doing that for 2 years or so. Just been living with it as to date it has always eventually started. Never happens at the dealership, of course. I'll try your procedure the next time it happens and see if it works for me.
 
We have a one year old chassis battery. Again, it always eventually starts. In our case the house battery boost does not help. The Dodge dealer and we agreed not to do further diagnosis until we both can research the codes. Is there a link to TSBs specific to 2008 MB 6 cylinder diesel?

Today after having good luck with delaying the move to position 2 and 3 we refueled and it wouldn't start. It finally did when I was on the phone with road service.
 

showkey

Well-known member
Sure would have been nice if when the dealer experienced the "CLICK" ( no crank) they would have thought to measure the voltage at the starter, solenoid connections and solenoid signal.

This still could be a simple cable connection or a starter issue. Those codes could be a concern for this problem or a total red herring. It not uncommon to find all sorts of communication codes on a perfectly functioning vehicle. I am not convinced this an ECU problem. The starter is a lot cheaper than the ECU. The starter also has in general a bad history of failures.

The 4804 code is related to the ESP system according to other posts.
Communication codes are very common any time the battery goes low or dead. If this is the cause for the codes it is rarely a real problem.
 
Last edited:

Top Bottom