Posts: 2 PROBLEM!!!BIG PROBLEM WITH KEY CYLINDER

BRANCALEONE

Member
BRANCALEONE
Junior Member


Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2 PROBLEM!!!BIG PROBLEM WITH KEY CYLINDER

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Okay fellas, I was a happy camper with my Sprinter, but today it happened again.:censored: It has happened three times already...my steering wheel is stuck. The key doesn't want to turn in the key cylinder. The last two times I managed to disengage the steering wheel and actually start the van, but I guess this morning my van had a little hangover from last night. (fourth of july fireworks) So I had to call a tow truck to bring it to the dealership. Has anyone else encountered a similar problem?:cry:
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
I think you're the first to report such a failure on Sprinter-Source's NCV3 talk section.

I'm curious: When you insert the key, did you hear the normal sounds?

What Sprinter do you have?


Please keep this thread updated so others that experience similar failure can find it, and find out what remedial reactions were taken by the dealership.

-Jon
 

AzteK

Blah Blah Blibbidy Blah!
My dads van did something very similar. That was the last piece of straw the broke his back. His had many problems from day one like many others. Limp mode was his fav. Then one day at a drop off, when he was done he stuck the key in, the regular electronic noises no longer happened, and the van wouldnt start, wouldnt even turn over. The mechanic replaced the cylinder but it never fixed the problem. It was a module that no one can remember that fixed the problem. The van was in for a good week, just sitting there while mechanics all scratched their heads.

They were ready to bring in a mechanic from Germany, or at least a proper mechanic that knows what they are doing to see if they can fix it. They didnt need to, and the problem was fixed. The next day dad traded the van in for a ram 3500.
 

kmessinger

Active member
If your put the key in but there is no noise, the clock, odometer, etc. do not light up it might just be a problem with the key fob/transponder.

I know with my emergency key, which is just the key removed from the fob, putting it into the ignition does nothing and it cannot be turned. Merely passing the fob close to the key, the noise happens, etc. and I can then turn the key.

I would check your other keys and/or replace the battery in the transponder.

For locking the Sprinter's transponders have a very poor range - I guess that is perhaps for security. I used to be able to lock and unlock my Eurovan from 200 feet away. The Sprinter I have to be within about 50'. But for starting, the transponder has to be (for me at least) within an inch of the key cylinder.

Regards,

Keith
 

BBlessing

61k happy miles
interesting input about the range of the fob, both for locking/unlocking the doors and the ignition and steering. i have experienced poor range on the exterior. there is a huge dead zone behind my cargo van. most times i have to be standing right at the rear doors to get it to work. the dealer tested the fob and found a dead battery (two months old). even after the new battery the tech said the fob had poor signal strength. they tested all the fobs and said they were the same in terms of signal strength but the rest of the batteries were fine. brancaleone; did they test the fob at the dealer? did you try your spare key/keys?

bb
 

BRANCALEONE

Member
BRANCALEONE
Junior Member


Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2 PROBLEM!!!BIG PROBLEM WITH KEY CYLINDER

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Okay fellas, I was a happy camper with my Sprinter, but today it happened again.:censored: It has happened three times already...my steering wheel is stuck. The key doesn't want to turn in the key cylinder. The last two times I managed to disengage the steering wheel and actually start the van, but I guess this morning my van had a little hangover from last night. (fourth of july fireworks) So I had to call a tow truck to bring it to the dealership. Has anyone else encountered a similar problem?:cry:
Okay guys.
First of all I want to apologize for my bad enghlish, then I would like to tanks everybody on this grrrrrrrrrrrreat forum.:rad:
Jon! The sound that you talking about was repetitive like loking and relese, usually come once when i insert the key. Like I said this is not the first time, I park the beast and turn all way the steering weel then I shut off the engine. When I returned and start...( try to start ) the vehicle nothing happens.:yell: The security system works fine, but the key does't turn.Previously I menaged to start the vehicle forcing the steering weel and turn the key on, but this time nothing happen.
So I called the tow company......really scary,:wtf:the slim fish that shows up was 300 pounds barely fit in to my van, so his first approce was with a hummer...yes you heard me, with hammer hitting the key inside the cilinder:crazy:, but nothing happen....after two hours another guy toke is place and my van was tow to the dealer .
I will keep you post about this thread. Not a key signal issue, battery is okay and tested.
Anyway....I drive a 170 ext 2500 Diesel van 4.18 with 2000 pounds weight. 21mpg average.....very happy. Next week I will drive a different one....
 

sikwan

06 T1N Can
We had that same problem on a Honda Civic. Key 1 would turn the ignition, but key 2 would not turn at all. Matched up the key and it varied slightly. Slight to the point where you couldn't discern if there was a difference.

Came in to the dealer to say that key 1 would work fine, but key 2 would not turn the ignition. Was told that the vehicle was still new and the keys/ignition switch needed time to break in. I gave him a straight NO and repeated again, "key 2 does not turn the ignition" (try it yourself and don't give me any double talk. I'm not dumb or dreaming. :D:).

Anyways, key 2 was re-cut so that it could actually start the vehicle.

I hope you find your problem.
 

Datajockeys

New member
I just happened to me! :yell:

I am stuck at Lowes, 35 degrees out, Labrador was happy though! Sucked her heat until the 2nd tow showed up. 1st tow could not keep his rig on the ground while lifting the van!

Dealer closing when we finally got there. Next day, I get a call saying that the wheel position indicator was not functioning properly and causing the computer to keep everything locked down. I am calling them back to inform them of what I learned on this thread.
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
Um, what did you learn on this thread? That Seek had to verbally strong-arm a service advisor at a Honda dealership - ultimately key 2 had to be recut - or that Barcelone never posted to this thread, detailing what the dealer did to fix his ride?

-Jon
 

sailquik

Well-known member
Not sure, but this has happened a couple of times to me when I had the steering wheel positioned just so and the steering wheel lock activated.
I've had this happen before on other vehicles, and all it usually takes is to turn the steering wheel (jiggle it back and forth a bit...lightly) until
the steering lock disengages and the key will operate normally.
Sometimes it's the simple things. I'm pretty sure mine did this yesterday or the day before. Annoying, but easy to fix.
Roger
 

BigBlueBus

New member
Okay guys.
First of all I want to apologize for my bad enghlish, then I would like to tanks everybody on this grrrrrrrrrrrreat forum.:rad:
Jon! The sound that you talking about was repetitive like loking and relese, usually come once when i insert the key. Like I said this is not the first time, I park the beast and turn all way the steering weel then I shut off the engine. When I returned and start...( try to start ) the vehicle nothing happens.:yell: The security system works fine, but the key does't turn.Previously I menaged to start the vehicle forcing the steering weel and turn the key on, but this time nothing happen.
So I called the tow company......really scary,:wtf:the slim fish that shows up was 300 pounds barely fit in to my van, so his first approce was with a hummer...yes you heard me, with hammer hitting the key inside the cilinder:crazy:, but nothing happen....after two hours another guy toke is place and my van was tow to the dealer .
I will keep you post about this thread. Not a key signal issue, battery is okay and tested.
Anyway....I drive a 170 ext 2500 Diesel van 4.18 with 2000 pounds weight. 21mpg average.....very happy. Next week I will drive a different one....
1) If this guy was hitting your cylinder with a hammer, even if the key is recut, I would definitely be demanding a new ignition cylinder installed immediately.

2) "I park the beast and turn all way the steering weel then I shut off the engine."
Are you saying that after you park the van, you turn the steering wheel all the way to one side, and then turn off the van and take the key out??? Why would you do that? Also, you are putting pressure on the steering lock by doing this and that pressure has to be relieved before the steering lock will disengage. Why not just leave the steering wheel at rest, then turn off the ignition and remove the key. There may be nothing wrong with the van in the first place.

3) Same principle: It is a good practice that when parking on an incline, to first shift the lever to Neutral, then apply the parking brake (hand brake), then release the brake pedal and verify that the vehicle stays stationary, then finally shift the transmission into Park. If done in this order, there is no strain on the transmission lock; Upon your return, you can then quickly and safely engage the transmission without the familiar "Clunk" noises from the powertrain. The most common culprit for transmission rebuilds is failed bearings caused by this very thing.
 
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BRANCALEONE

Member
After a while I found the dealer receipt for my visit regarding starting failure.
The report says this:
106 Found ignition switch and wireless switch causing concern replaced.
Switch and wireless control rechecked OK at this time.
Sorry for being late with "helpful" information.:bash:
Regards
Mauro.
 

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