Let's see what trolling crap K-9 SPRINTER is up to (again)...

ECU

Well-known member
Based on the existence of this and other similar threads, I'm convinced we don't actually have ANY moderators.
Can you prove the existence of Moderator?

In the beginning, Moderator created the Forum. The black pixel and the white...
 

flman

Well-known member
Why is this thread about flaming another member even here? Seems like it should be in the danger zone?

How does this have any thing to do with technical forum problems? Press the little ! triangle and whine like a sissy if you have a problem with another member.
 

geoffs

2003 T1N 316CDI LWB
Press the little ! triangle and whine like a sissy if you have a problem with another member.
That would only work if there was actual moderation in this forum. Threads like this one would be stopped/deleted on most other forums I'm on.
 

avanti

2014 GWV Legend 3500 I4
That would only work if there was actual moderation in this forum. Threads like this one would be stopped/deleted on most other forums I'm on.
Perhaps you would be happier on those forums rather than here?

A lot of us think our moderator does a most excellent job. We appreciate his liberal but sensible approach.
 

geoffs

2003 T1N 316CDI LWB
A lot of us think our moderator does a most excellent job. We appreciate his liberal but sensible approach.
I don't know about other users but I came to this forum because I own a sprinter and want to learn more about them. Threads like this have no place here.
 

HowardB

New member
The OP of this thread is "special". He is famous for posting flamed threads then locking them, or threads that he moderates and only allows positive reinforced reply's to.
Im personally getting a kick out of his latest grossly obvious plagiarized thread on his electrical theorys (which sport dual 400 amp breakers) and 0000 ga wiring.
Me thinks he was pasting and posting schematics from a submarine forum.

For a while I thought Merlin had hacked his account, but now me thinks he is/was Merlin all along.

☺popcorn eh jacko?
 

ECU

Well-known member
Someone should tell him that you want a fuse low enough so it will actually blow to protect something.
I thought of a fuse block and all that on my inverter. It would certainly look cool. But the output is 10 amps ac and has an internal GFI. If it shorts anywhere, it will trigger that. Period. The system doesn't pull 200 amps at crank, much less from other sources. And he has only one aux battery.
Build the system to run ALL stuff at once? You kid me. Even your home couldn't do that. Imagine, every plug in the house outputting 15 amps each. A single 15 amp CB runs 14g to twelve plugs. Your full service is likely 200 amps.
 

HowardB

New member
This thread deserves to be hijacked, so I will speak of fuses.
My current work van setup has 1) 150 amp fuse at the starting battery positive cable that runs 20 ft to another 150 amp fuse that connects to the battery isolator, that then goes to 2 house batteries.

My 110v system is fed buy a generator with a 10 ga cord coming out of a 30 amp twist lock outlet that goes to a power selector switch. My shore power is 100 ft of 10 ga 20 amp cord that goes to the same power selector switch, my inverter is a 2000 watt 20 amp gfi protected with a 20 amp cord running back to same power selector switch.

From the switch 10 ga wire feeds a mini panel with 2 30 amp breakers that feed 6 circuits 3 of which are 15 amps and 3 are 20 amps.

1 of the 20 amps feeds a roof top ac. The others are there for machine use.

All lighting is 12v LED.
I only run 1 thing at a time as I don't have 4 arms. The roof top air will draw 13 amps max, more like 11, and is wired only to run on shore power and gen power. TV, all lights small fans are 12v, computer phones etc are all 12v charged.
Heat comes from propane camper furnace in wall.

Wiring from starting battery to house batteries is all 2 ga stranded welding cable. Wiring to inverter is 2 ga tinned marine stranded cable 3ft runs. 12 outlets are stranded 12/3 wire with 15 amp inside outlets & 20 amp GFI outside outlets.

There is another 100 ft roll out cord system used as extension cord to supply power from van.

This all works perfectly fine and I have even run other vans with 50 amp (not 150 amp) fused 12v systems between the starting and house batteries and never popped a fuse.

If my generator is 30 amp output, and my shore power can only be plugged into someone's house outlets (15-20 amp max) and my inverter is rated 20 amps, then I think I'm fused correctly. Even my boat that can plug into a 50 amp shore power at a dock is only 50 amp fused (110v) panel breaker.

So I might be missing the need for 400 amp breakers but it sounds like putting penny's in screw in fuses at grandma's house or you might just as well not fuse anything and depend on the power sources protection to protect itself.

My gen has 30 & 20 amp breakers, shore power is protected at the house or business I plug into by 15 or 20amp breakers, and inverter is protected with 20 amp gfi and low/high voltage breakers along with over heat breakers.

400 amp breakers / fuses sounds useless, my goal is to reduce my breakers /fuses down down down to their minimums, most of my small 12v stuff like cabinet lights etc are running on 5amp fuses.

Comments good or bad always welcome.
 

K-9 SPRINTER

Active member
Why is this thread about flaming another member even here? Seems like it should be in the danger zone?

How does this have any thing to do with technical forum problems? Press the little ! triangle and whine like a sissy if you have a problem with another member.
the thread he started about you (Lets see what trolling crap filman is up to) and Howards thread http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37639

were moved to the DZ
The OP of this thread is "special". He is famous for posting flamed threads then locking them, or threads that he moderates and only allows positive reinforced reply's to.
For a while I thought Merlin had hacked his account, but now me thinks he is/was Merlin all along.
Yep, if you notice the other thread..( Lets see what trolling crap filman is up to)has just been deleted.( the one you started a new thread about http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37639

The trolling OP had also locked this one, but the REAL moderator unlocked it
 
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ECU

Well-known member
400 amp breakers / fuses sounds useless, my goal is to reduce my breakers /fuses down down down to their minimums, most of my small 12v stuff like cabinet lights etc are running on 5amp fuses.

Comments good or bad always welcome.
I have two aux batteries that are wired to my inverter, one foot runs. Each has a 150a 12v automotive CB to the feed. I used 4g solid core. In installing stuff I shorted the lead on one battery and just about welded the battery terminal clear off. It didn't trip the CB. But that is the rating, 1500W peak.
I put a 200a fuse in the crank battery's fuse box because I thought that is what factory was. 4g wire between Aux and crank. I don't think that stuff will ever blow.
 
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HowardB

New member
I would consider fuses over CB's between batteries and other componets. Especially if you are using 110v CB's in a 12v system.

I have seen CB's melted in the on position while wires fry.

Also if your 150 did not work, drop it down in 25 amps at a time till you blow one under normal use, then go 25 above that.
We want our breakers to go off instantly when there is an actual problem.

I had a watch band weld itself to my wrist one day when I was using a wrench on the positive post and the bottom of my wrist & metal watch band hit the negitive at the same moment my wrench hit the side of the band.

Speaking of things dangling, a woman about 20 miles away from our shop (a customer) went out to start her generator and her scarf got wrapped up in it and she died right there, at night, in the snow alone.

Be careful out there boys,

I'm starting to like this thread now. Thanks OnioN.
 

HowardB

New member
Btw you should really use stranded wire in marine and mobile units. It's a fatigue issue at the connections and where wires can shake.
 

icarus

New member
DC current his harder to break than AC current. It sustains an arc much better given its tature of "always being on", as opposed to AC which is "off" roughly have the time. That is why circuit breakers and switches have both DC and AC ratings, and indeed there are only a few household style breakers that are rated for DC at all. (Square D QO series comes to mind)

Icarus
 

ECU

Well-known member
Btw you should really use stranded wire in marine and mobile units. It's a fatigue issue at the connections and where wires can shake.
The install is tight. Nothing between the items is moving. Stranded to chassis ground and the long run to the relay/start link.

I found that the short runs were quite difficult with stranded. It wouldn't hold a bend and was very difficult to manipulate.
 

flman

Well-known member
The OP of this thread is "special". He is famous for posting flamed threads then locking them, or threads that he moderates and only allows positive reinforced reply's to.
Im personally getting a kick out of his latest grossly obvious plagiarized thread on his electrical theorys (which sport dual 400 amp breakers) and 0000 ga wiring.
Me thinks he was pasting and posting schematics from a submarine forum.

For a while I thought Merlin had hacked his account, but now me thinks he is/was Merlin all along.

☺popcorn eh jacko?
Exactly, that looks like something that was plucked out of google images. First he is a photographer, then an electrical wizard. :lol:
 

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