How to remove Sprinter Cargo Van ceiling panels?

[johnnydragonfly]

Hello, I'm a recent Sprinter convert (sold my 2012 Ford F250 + Horton Hauler 16X7 Enclosed trailer) that I work with my hardwood flooring business. I bought my 2014 Cargo Crew 170 High in June, and simply love it. Since then, and with very little research, my curiosities are on fire with what everyone is doing to these vehicles. I need to access the metal roof and my van has factory interior panels. I understand the few plastic push pins, but there must be more, hidden clips inside. Does anyone have any insight on how and where to begin? I definitely need mid-van ceiling access to mount a Glee AC/Heater, as well as running the wires inside from a new Renogy solar panel set up that just arrived. I'm stoked, but am not interested in destroying what is in place and fairly decent. Thanks in advance for your helpful insight. And I have a million and one questions. Any hardwood flooring questions or advice is free and my 20+ years of experience is at your disposal. Thanks!

 

[pfflyer]

Welcome to the forum. On a 2013 crew cargo I started in the rear with a plastic trim tool removing the tops and then the plastic fasteners around the back door. It is like a mushroom head anchor. Separate the head from the flange at the top of the anchor. Once separated the pin in the center releases the grip of the anchor then the whole plastic fastener will come out. Once you do one you will see how the others work. Then there is one plastic fastener in the center of the forward part of that section. Different head but same principle. Then you have to lift up and in at the sides to get the tabs on the headliner out of the hole in the van side. From there it basically the same process forward until you get to the cab. Starting in the rear going forward is the way it was designed but it is possible to remove one in the middle first but you will most likely have to replace some of the fasteners. You may need to replace some of the fasteners anyway. It is possible to do by yourself but another set of hands would help your first time.

 

[johnnydragonfly]

Thanks for the insight. I did figure out the push pin buttons, but did not want to rip out the rest of the panel. I appreciate the reply. I'll have to get that first one out and keep going to just behind the driver's seat. I am hoping to install a roof top ac/heat, and it is fairly heavy and may need some bracing. I have to see what I have to work with, you know? It's funny how large these vans are and how quickly you run out of space! I think the ac and the 4 solar panels will max out my roof top space. I bet a sunroof would be cool though. And the list goes on and on...I'm so glad I chose one of these. Thanks again!

 

[pfflyer]

Good luck. Plenty of users here have the ac above where our crew bench is but I am not aware of any extra bracing. There is a gap in the ridges there on the roof for a 14x 14 cut out. Let us know how it turns out because I am thinking of adding an ac there as well. I'm interested in how much head room will be lost with control panel of the ac unit. My head rubs right now. If you ever make it to my neck of the woods maybe we can meet for a cup of coffee.

 

[JJolls]

There are clips on the ceiling that hold the panels in place. I found that by using a nylon "V" shaped body panel tool (Harbor Freight - set costs 6 bucks), you can compress the legs of the clips and by wiggling the tool, the clips will drop out of the metal framing of the roof. Be careful and do not pry the clips downward... you will snap the heads off the clips, rendering them useless.

The hard part was inserting the "V" between the body of the clip and the ceiling framework... it took some finesse to get it right. I broke about 6 or so when removing the ceiling panels on my '14 crew this spring. Of course, no aftermarket clips would work, and I had to go to "momma benz" for replacement... 1.70 each.

The hardest part is reaching under the large panel by the sliding door - there are multiple rows of clips holding it up, and you will need to stand on a ladder to reach all the way in there to get at the clip. Go slow, be patient, and try not to pry downward.

With the sides of each panel (down low), you will see 2 or 3 dimpled areas on each panel. Insert your panel tool upward in these areas, then you can gently pry the side of each panel outward. Here the panel material forms a tab with wings, which fit into a slot in the metal framing. Do this first for each panel, then it will hang down slightly, revealing the clips on the ceiling.

The rear panel fits underneath the one in front of it. Start here, remove the push pins at the rear door (thanks Pfflyer!) remove the wing tabs on the sides, and slide the back of the rear panel down. Then you can pull the panel backwards from underneath the one in front of it and then work on the ceiling clips.

As Pfflyer suggests, another set of hands on the large panels helps alot.

Good luck with it! Cheers, JJ

 

[johnnydragonfly]

Thanks much guys! I had a little time yesterday and found the ceiling clips for the first panel. I was having a bit of a frustration solo, so I'll get a friend to help next week. The ac/heat is a Glee 13.5btu unit. It sits maybe 14-16" high, but a body/paint friend is color matching the unit and cover so it should look pretty good. It pains me and scares the hell out of me to cut a hole in a new roof! But the interior ceiling unit is really low profile and flat, and may extend 2-3". t comes with a remote control and controls on the unit itself. I'm really interested in how well these solar panels will keep the 4/155amh batteries charged for the new equipment. It's really quite an adventure. Can't wait to get out and about with any free time between jobs. And I'd ertainly like to have a cup of joe with sprinter folks along the way. Thanks again!

 

[pfflyer]

My Maxaire fan sat around for over a month while I got up the nerve to cut the hole. I would recommend using a Unibit in the corners. Regular drill bits will grab the sheet metal at break thru. Good luck

 

[gnach]

Does anyone know a part number for the exposed gray 2 part fastener we are talking about? The SOFT polyethylene pillar trim covers show every mark and I was thiking it would be better to drill out (paddle bit?) the head. I don't find anything like it on a google image search. Any other thoughts?

 

[pfflyer]

Does anyone know a part number for the exposed gray 2 part fastener we are talking about? The SOFT polyethylene pillar trim covers show every mark and I was thiking it would be better to drill out (paddle bit?) the head. I don't find anything like it on a google image search. Any other thoughts?

Explain why you would need to drill out the head? Are you having problems removing them?

 

[gnach]

The 1" mushroom head of the pin is wider than and is recessed for the socket. I needed a thin, flexible putty knife to lift the head enough to get the vee fork tool underneath to lift pry the pin up. As careful as I was the soft plastic is marred at every pin. My thinking is that the dealer would consider these parts as disposable (passed on to the consumer) rather than marring the surface. Only the first three are exposed on the rear headline panel. A similar situation exists at the front steps. Three plugs conceal the torx screws that hold down the step liner. I removed them to added butyl sound dampening. I suspect the dealer runs a screw in to lift the plug.

 

[pfflyer]

It takes a little patience to separate the head but is doable. I used the plastic trim tool to separate without marring the head. If you are going to replace anyway you can pry out the whole fastener without separation. You don't state what year you have and you might want to add it to your signature for future reference but using the search function for "panel fastener" or you could try " trim fastener" I found this thread https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=179687&highlight=panel+fastener#post179687

If yours is a later model I think users Georgera or Hein have links to aftermarket sources.

Good luck and if you find yourself taking off the B pillars be careful with the seat belt retractor. Do a search here for more info.