I made this camper van electrical diagram, but I desperately need help!

[bluematrix]

This forum (Ross and Inertiaman in particular) rocks!

Going back a few posts...

Ross - vin # for my van is WD8PE745575147561. Hopefully it won't be hard to get that brown wire connected somewhere.

Inertiaman - Glad my cheaper choice of 4awg wasn't too bad. I did examine the pre-fuse this weekend and wondered about the narrowness too. I've been ordering my cables custom made off the interwebs (place called Genuinedealz) and went with the 4awg cable, tinned, with heat shrink and a 1/4" terminal and wondered if I might have to file a wee bit as well. For the fuse itself I just ordered using the MB part number in the diagram, I think it is the 150 and not the 80, but if it ever gets here, I'll know for sure.

- I think I'll go with the 150a terminal fuse on the new battery (just to be safe) and have it protect both the ACR and the on/off switch (with no cables connected directly to the battery terminal itself).

Working on the small instrument panel this week in the cabinet above the battery, where I'll put the Victron, the ACR button and a 4 toggle switch for the lights. it doesn't seem to difficult, but then I've thought that before.

Thanks again both!

Tim

 

[Inertiaman]

Working on the small instrument panel this week in the cabinet above the battery, where I'll put the Victron, the ACR button and a 4 toggle switch for the lights. it doesn't seem to difficult, but then I've thought that before.

You might consider mounting the Victron display remotely, somewhere it can be seen while driving. Occasionally it can be useful to see realtime currents and/or voltages, especially if you ever need to debug any odd behavior. Since you only need to run the phone wire, its not too bad. You might be able to get it up the B pillar and across the headliner with little or no disassembly work, for example.

 

[avanti]

You might consider mounting the Victron display remotely, somewhere it can be seen while driving. Occasionally it can be useful to see realtime currents and/or voltages, especially if you ever need to debug any odd behavior. Since you only need to run the phone wire, its not too bad. You might be able to get it up the B pillar and across the headliner with little or no disassembly work, for example.

The Trimetric meters have a serial output port. I used it to drive a display that shows battery parameters (and other things) on the nav screen. It is very useful.

 

[GeorgeRa]

You might consider mounting the Victron display remotely, somewhere it can be seen while driving. Occasionally it can be useful to see realtime currents and/or voltages, especially if you ever need to debug any odd behavior. Since you only need to run the phone wire, its not too bad. You might be able to get it up the B pillar and across the headliner with little or no disassembly work, for example.

In my system I am using Magnum ME-ARC monitor. I don’t like 3 things about it:

1. Its location which is my mistake, I should have pick a location in the front with a direct view from the driver seat.
2. Too many key strokes to get to see what you want. I used to have Link 10 which was friendlier.
3. My Intellitec (Battery Disconnect) disconnects all loads if activated including Magnum unit. Magnum doesn’t have internal memory so every time I disconnect batteries I need to reprogram the unit.

I am contemplating adding Victron located in the front. I think I can use Magnum shunt (500A/50mVA) or would add Victron shunt.

My question is regarding Victron’s memory, does it need to be reprogrammed after battery disconnect? I could not find this info in their manual.

Thank you,

George.

 

[Inertiaman]

I am contemplating adding Victron located in the front. I think I can use Magnum shunt (500A/50mVA) or would add Victron shunt.

My question is regarding Victron’s memory, does it need to be reprogrammed after battery disconnect? I could not find this info in their manual.
.

The Victron can use any shunt, but there are some additional configuration/calibration steps necessary on initial setup I believe. FWIW, I don't think you can buy the unit without the shunt, so you're likely only saving yourself the effort to swap the shunts.

Different parameters are in volatile vs non-volatile memory. The battery capacity (the sole parameter that must be manually entered) is in non-volatile. History data (charge/discharge cycles, max discharge, etc) is in non-volatile. But the 100% SOC reference is in volatile. I'm not sure about some of the stuff like relay trigger thresholds, etc. That said, on subsequent power up, it will recalibrate automatically to SOC again based on some declining charge current equations (or you can manually set it whenever you feel you've reached max SOC, just by pressing + and - keys simultaneously for 3 seconds). So not much to "re-program".

However, its easy to wire the Victron in a way that avoids power down. Just wire the Victron straight to the battery terminal (thru wire and inline 1A fuse they provide) outside your normal load circuit. Then the monitor should stay powered even if Intellitec disconnects your loads. BMV700 draws 4mA so no threat to your battery.

 

[mtnick]

Hi Tim,

I do have a concern with the Blue sea ACR. Because it is a mag latch relay, there is a condition where both batteries are connected when the engine is started. (The relay is energised by the solar panels.) On starting, both batteries would contribute to power the starter. This condition could unnecessarily use House battery capacity.
The Bue sea ACR relay has a fix for this. It provides a Brown wire which needs to be connected the the Start relay circuit which drops out the relay during start function.
I have not yet found where the point of connection of the brown wire is to be made but I will determine this once I have cleared some other jobs.

Hey Ross- Did you find the best connection spot for the brown start isolation wire? I'm looking to hook one of the ACRs up in my T1N. I'm considering mounting the ACR in the engine compartment, otherwise I will have to run this brown wire from all the way in the back of the van. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks. -Nick

 

[Oldfartt]

Yes but I will do the details tomorrow. Time to sleep now.

Cheers

Ross

 

[Oldfartt]

Where to wire the Brown wire from the Blue sea ACR?

Well it is not easy, as getting to the wiring is difficult to access.
First, disconnect the battery negative by pulling the plug under the dash near the drivers right foot LHD. Make sure the engine is off and the keys out of the ignition first.

On K40/9 which is the fuse and relay panel under the dash near the bonnet release, the start relay is K5. When the key is turned to start, relay K5 is engaged. 12 Volts is Switched to relay contact 87 and then fed to the starter on terminal 50 which is the smaller terminal on the starter M1. You need to tap onto the Violet wire.

Access to the starter motor is quite difficult and so is the relay panel, so there will be some disassembly to be done before you can get access to the wiring. You may need to engage an automotive electrician to do this work if you do not feel comfortable doing it yourself.

Please let me know how you get on.

Cheers

Ross

 

[bluematrix]

Thanks Ross. Well that sounds harder than I imagined. Do I have other options?

What if turned off the connection to the aux battery on startup to save the drain on it, then switched it over once the engine was running? Or if not, how big of a drain on the aux battery will it be if it is not isolated? I'm guessing it would shorten it's life, but it wouldn't damage it, would it?

Tim

 

[pfflyer]

You might consider mounting the Victron display remotely, somewhere it can be seen while driving. Occasionally it can be useful to see realtime currents and/or voltages, especially if you ever need to debug any odd behavior. Since you only need to run the phone wire, its not too bad. You might be able to get it up the B pillar and across the headliner with little or no disassembly work, for example.

It can be and has been done. Pop out the dome light to fish, make connections and mount.

 

[mtnick]

Where to wire the Brown wire from the Blue sea ACR?

Well it is not easy, as getting to the wiring is difficult to access.
First, disconnect the battery negative by pulling the plug under the dash near the drivers right foot LHD. Make sure the engine is off and the keys out of the ignition first.

On K40/9 which is the fuse and relay panel under the dash near the bonnet release, the start relay is K5. When the key is turned to start, relay K5 is engaged. 12 Volts is Switched to relay contact 87 and then fed to the starter on terminal 50 which is the smaller terminal on the starter M1. You need to tap onto the Violet wire.

Access to the starter motor is quite difficult and so is the relay panel, so there will be some disassembly to be done before you can get access to the wiring. You may need to engage an automotive electrician to do this work if you do not feel comfortable doing it yourself.

Please let me know how you get on.

Cheers

Ross

Hey Ross- Thanks of the great info. Is this for a T1N or a NCV3? Thanks. -Nick

 

[GeorgeRa]

It can be and has been done. Pop out the dome light to fish, make connections and mount.

Great place, I will copy it if you don't mind.

George.

 

[Inertiaman]

Where to wire the Brown wire from the Blue sea ACR?

Is starter isolation really necessary for a van?

The 7620 ACR has to see >13.5V for 30 sec or >13.0V for 90 sec before it will close/combine. So any fluctuating voltage/current during engine starting will be long over by the time the ACR closes, no? When the ACR closes the engine/alternator should be in a normal steady state, no? So what is all the trouble of locating/connecting to the starter wire really buying you?

I imagined that this SI feature was useful when cranking engines in boats for long periods, or some other scenario that is atypical in a van. I could be wrong, especially considering I know nothing about boats.

EDIT: by you I meant @mtnick or @bluematrix or anyone else considering this, not @Oldfartt.

 

[Inertiaman]

Great place, I will copy it if you don't mind.

George.

Nice install @pfflyer. Me and @ddunaway used the same spot. Very discrete location/size and easy to see and reach. BTW, George, stepping through the various states/modes on the BMV70x is as easy as pressing the + or - button to the next display. Oh, and I got an email from Victron that confirmed that *all* parameters are stored in non-volatile memory and will not be lost on a power cycle, with the singular exception of the state of charge percent, which must be re-established again either automatically on first full charge or manually as you wish.

 

[Oldfartt]

Is starter isolation really necessary for a van?

The 7620 ACR has to see >13.5V for 30 sec or >13.0V for 90 sec before it will close/combine. So any fluctuating voltage/current during engine starting will be long over by the time the ACR closes, no? When the ACR closes the engine/alternator should be in a normal steady state, no? So what is all the trouble of locating/connecting to the starter wire really buying you?

I imagined that this SI feature was useful when cranking engines in boats for long periods, or some other scenario that is atypical in a van. I could be wrong, especially considering I know nothing about boats.

EDIT: by you I meant @mtnick or @bluematrix or anyone else considering this, not @Oldfartt.

The condition occurs when the solar panels are charging the house battery and the battery voltage is higher than 13.5V which means the ACR contact is closed.
The condition is not a serious one as the house and engine battery will be at the same voltage, possibly fully charged, but nevertheless, on engine cranking a proportion of the house battery discharge will be used unnecessarily to start the engine.

Another manual solution is to fit the Blue sea ACR 7622 which has a manual switch disconnect or you could fit a remote switch in the Ground (black) lead to disable the relay. This is what I have done, fitted it on the drivers seat base under/near the parking brake.

You do have to remember to turn it back on again.

Cheers

Ross

 

[Oldfartt]

Hey Ross- Thanks of the great info. Is this for a T1N or a NCV3? Thanks. -Nick

NCV3

Cheers

Ross

 

[Inertiaman]

The condition occurs when the solar panels are charging the house battery and the battery voltage is higher than 13.5V which means the ACR contact is closed.
The condition is not a serious one as the house and engine battery will be at the same voltage, possibly fully charged, but nevertheless, on engine cranking a proportion of the house battery discharge will be used unnecessarily to start the engine.

Another manual solution is to fit the Blue sea ACR 7622 which has a manual switch disconnect or you could fit a remote switch in the Ground (black) lead to disable the relay. This is what I have done, fitted it on the drivers seat base under/near the parking brake.

You do have to remember to turn it back on again.

Cheers

Ross

Thanks, that helps me understand the logic. I didn't realize these relays were dual sensing and would close the relay when either side met the voltage criteria.

Another manual solution is to use the SI signal, connected through a switch to a +12V source.

 

[mtnick]

NCV3

Cheers

Ross

Hey Ross- Any chance you can help me find this starter wire on my 2004 158"WB T1N? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks. -Nick

 

[mtnick]

Hey Ross- Any chance you can help me find this starter wire on my 2004 158"WB T1N? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks. -Nick

I managed to run the brown wire directly to the starter. It's hard to get to, but I was able to do it with the van on the ground. This thread has been very helpful. Thanks. -Nick

 

[Oldfartt]

Hi Nick.
Yes in the T1N it is much easier to get at the starter than in the NCV3. You could have also got to the ignition switch but is more difficult.

Cheers

Ross