turbo resonator.. poor fit


New member
I purchased a 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 recently. Been having problem with underboost conditions and going into LHM. After reading through these forums I check the resonator and it appears to be the problem. Was a little bit of oil collecting on the bottom that appeared to be leaking through the seams.

Purchased the Dorman aftermarket resonator on Amazon. Old one had a split in the o-ring. Replaced it. But I got the condition again, so I had someone rev the engine and I could feel the air escaping around the resonator. I unbolted it and noticed that it's not going all the way in. It's like the bolts don't line up to the point where the resonator can be pushed in far enough to create a good seal. According to amazon, the part fits.. it looks like the one I pulled out. Has anyone else had any problems like this?


Well-known member
That's why I only install FACTORY Parts.
Dorman parts are made by multiple Chinese suppliers.

I see more issues created by installing bad aftermarket parts than I care to think about.:thumbdown:
Simply do yourself a favour and consult a dealer for the genuine part.
Its that simple.


Erratic Member
For what it's worth, my Dorman fit my 2005 quite happily (i.e. it took final tightening of the mounting bolts to fully seat it).

Um... did yours include the sealing O-ring? Leaving that out would certainly produce a leaky seating.
(i'm certainly willing to believe that not all boxes have all the parts...)



New member
Thanks. I got an OEM part from the dealer and just put it on. I noticed it fit much more snug than the dorman. Still doesn't go all the way in, so I'm guessing that's a non issue. Originally was going to get the eliminator, but figured for $30 dollars, the dorman would suffice. That being said, the original when I took it out, had a busted o-ring, and from what I understand, the eliminator doesn't come with one. Hopefully this replacement will last for the rest of the time I have the vehicle.. I'll give it a decent test drive tomorrow and see if it holds up.

Has anyone else used torque or something similar to measure boost? I was monitoring on the highway today and I maxed out at 16psi, what should I be seeing under normal highway conditions? Should I be hitting 20?


I've had the Dorman replacement installed for many miles without any issues after the latest gee wiz Q5 factory resonator failed. I took measurements of the OEM resonator and the Dorman and they were identical, but the Dorman didn't have the lousy seam that leaks.

New O-rings can be purchased from a dealer for a buck or two. If you didn't use an O-ring, no wonder it leaked.


I installed the Riordan turbo eliminator in mine and monitor performance with a Scanguage ll. The manifold air pressure can vary from 16-30ish. When I blew my factory turbo resonator I did not exceed 16 and waent o limp home mode. I am satisfied with the Riordan but it does squel more than the factory part.

Usk Coastie

New member
My 2003 T1N has a scan gauge II installed. One of my 4 channels is set to MAP or Manifold Absolute Pressure. Think back to High School science and remember that there is 14.7 PSI Absolute at sea level give or take. As you gain altitude the pressure decreases. The MAP that the system is seeing is the altitude of the vehicle plus turbo boost which is controlled by the ECM based on throttle position, engine load, and a few other things in the mix to position the inlet guide vanes to provide the appropriate boost above the ambient pressure.

My rig goes anywhere from 14.7 to 28.0+ MAP dependent on load, altitude, and the rest of the ECM inputs.

I would say that if you are getting 16 PSI BOOST as opposed to 16 PSI MAP this part of your engine is OK. If it is a MAP you're reading further exploration is needed.

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Under heavy throttle the direct read mechanical pressure gauge on my OM647 engine regularly jumps up to about 22 psi and then settles back to around 20 psi (not MAP). If you are selected/scaled to boost pressure in psi then a max of 16 seems low to me.



New member
New O-rings can be purchased from a dealer for a buck or two. If you didn't use an O-ring, no wonder it leaked.
I did use an o-ring with the dorman part, but it did seem to be a thinner ring than the OEM ring.

They looked the same, but I did notice that the bolt holes on the arm were placed differently. Although, that was only a visual inspection, and it's hard to tell exactly because the arm on the OEM had a different curve to it.

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