avanti
2022 Ford Transit 3500
Can you say more about this? I thought that was exactly what the Trik-L-Start was designed to prevent. I did have a similar problem (described earlier in this thread), but it was due to a clearly defective unit.
Trickle Charger for Sprinter Batteries
- Thread starter Gamma1966
- Start date
Joe,
I agree with Avanti. The only reason that the chassis battery would go dead is either an unsupported load after the power supply failed or a defective Trick-l-Start. The Trick-L-Start cannot keep your chassis battery up without some form of voltage supply, either line voltage to the coaches converter and hence through the Trick-L- Start to the chassis battery or a solar supply if you have one. When the coach battery voltage drops, it cannot supply the necessary voltage through the Trick-L-Start to the chassis battery and the battery will be drained by whatever loads such as the clock and the computer memory are present.
Bob
I agree with Avanti. The only reason that the chassis battery would go dead is either an unsupported load after the power supply failed or a defective Trick-l-Start. The Trick-L-Start cannot keep your chassis battery up without some form of voltage supply, either line voltage to the coaches converter and hence through the Trick-L- Start to the chassis battery or a solar supply if you have one. When the coach battery voltage drops, it cannot supply the necessary voltage through the Trick-L-Start to the chassis battery and the battery will be drained by whatever loads such as the clock and the computer memory are present.
Bob
That can be done but you still have to run a wire to the house batteries
For when I am on shore or gen power, I use a 4 stage smart charger/maintainer with digital display that I bought for under $50. I simply cut off the alligator battery clips and spliced in a $3 cigarette type (5 amp fused) DC power plug I bought at Walmart and plug it directly into the (Sprinter Battery) 12 volt accessory plug on the side of the driver's seat on my 2014 Unity. I also used a DC plug splitter so I can plug in a digital volt meter or any other accessory.
2 Photos: http://s1240.photobucket.com/user/mikegusto/library/RV Stuff/RV Charger
Battery Butler (Powertech) Charger: http://www.ebay.com/itm/26155888993...0&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=261558889934&_rdc=1
2 Photos: http://s1240.photobucket.com/user/mikegusto/library/RV Stuff/RV Charger
Battery Butler (Powertech) Charger: http://www.ebay.com/itm/26155888993...0&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=261558889934&_rdc=1
JoePhoenix
2016 Unity TB
Avanti-
Mea culpa! Mea culpa! I have mixed up my various chargers! The issue was with the Battery Minder Plus (BM+) installed on my Bus, not the Trik-L-Start (TLS)! The problem I had occurred almost 5 years ago, and my CRS must have been acting up the other day when I originally posted my response.
I was a relative newbie when this problem occurred, and learned a lot about how devices interplay when it comes to the batteries, inverter, and chargers.The Bus was plugged into 110v at my storage place, which meant I was charging the house batteries, as well as the chassis batteries' via the BM+ which was plugged into an inverter-fed outlet on the Bus. The problem occurred when the post power went out at my storage yard. I'd also left the inverter on because I was planning on going out on a trip very soon. I also didn't have the AGS set to come on because I thought I'd be OK with the 110v from the post. Again, a newbie mistake!
When the power went out, the invertor took over supplying the 110v power, and when those batteries discharged far enough, the chassis batteries charge was "sucked" back through the BM+ because it didn't have the built-in smarts to prevent that.
So, the solution was to get a Trik-L-Start, but I was advised that the Amp-L-Start was better because of the larger amperage capability. In any case, either works great WHEN the main charger for the house batteries is receiving power from the pole. BTW, since that original problem, I never leave my inverter on when the Bus is in storage.
Again, sorry for the inaccurate comment in my original post.
Joe
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Don Horner
2012 Unity IB
The really neat thing about my Trik-L-Start is that it works regardless of whether I'm plugged into shore power or getting the house batteries charged by solar. All it really does is slightly slow down the house battery charging -- the Trik-L:-Start "borrows" a small percentage (around 5% if I recall) of the charge going to the house batteries to maintain the chassis battery. I've never seen any other than the "Maintaining" LED on the Trik-L-Start, so the amperage must be fine.
I received my air horns, and I'm "piddling" with the installation. First, I did a dry fit to see if the horns would fit under the hood -- no problem, and a test fit of the compressor and air tank, again no problem. I'm mounting the compressor and tank on the platform that could support an auxiliary chassis battery, and bolting the horns to the ledge around that platform. They'll stick straight down into the space ahead of the driver's side front fender well and behind the driver's side headlight. I also removed one of the switch blanks from the dash, and modified and drilled it to fit the small, black horn button that came with the kit.
Today, I installed all the fittings on the air tank -- drain, safety valve, pressure switch, compressor lead hose and horns air supply hose, and figured out all the wiring hookups. Tomorrow I'll search for the nearest 12V sources, both hot all the time (for the relay) and switched with the ignition (for the compressor and the horn button.) I'll also drill holes and mount the tank compressor and horns, and install the air plumbing.
Finally, the last step, which will occur in a couple of days (no sense rushing into these things
) will be to hook up the electrical stuff.
I received my front Sumo Springs (actually fancy bump stops) but the rear springs will take a bit longer, the vendor said they're special order. At my age (going on 75) I no longer like to crawl around under vehicles, so I'm taking it to my local tire and battery shop (where they also do suspension work) and letting them install them. While there, I'll inquire about tire valve extensions. If I like what they propose I'll let them do it, otherwise I'll order the Tire Man valves and then let the tire store install them. I'm still debating with myself about a TPMS, I'm not so far over the hill that I can't check the pressures myself.
I received my air horns, and I'm "piddling" with the installation. First, I did a dry fit to see if the horns would fit under the hood -- no problem, and a test fit of the compressor and air tank, again no problem. I'm mounting the compressor and tank on the platform that could support an auxiliary chassis battery, and bolting the horns to the ledge around that platform. They'll stick straight down into the space ahead of the driver's side front fender well and behind the driver's side headlight. I also removed one of the switch blanks from the dash, and modified and drilled it to fit the small, black horn button that came with the kit.
Today, I installed all the fittings on the air tank -- drain, safety valve, pressure switch, compressor lead hose and horns air supply hose, and figured out all the wiring hookups. Tomorrow I'll search for the nearest 12V sources, both hot all the time (for the relay) and switched with the ignition (for the compressor and the horn button.) I'll also drill holes and mount the tank compressor and horns, and install the air plumbing.
Finally, the last step, which will occur in a couple of days (no sense rushing into these things
) will be to hook up the electrical stuff.I received my front Sumo Springs (actually fancy bump stops) but the rear springs will take a bit longer, the vendor said they're special order. At my age (going on 75) I no longer like to crawl around under vehicles, so I'm taking it to my local tire and battery shop (where they also do suspension work) and letting them install them. While there, I'll inquire about tire valve extensions. If I like what they propose I'll let them do it, otherwise I'll order the Tire Man valves and then let the tire store install them. I'm still debating with myself about a TPMS, I'm not so far over the hill that I can't check the pressures myself.
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JoePhoenix
2016 Unity TB
Don-
Question on how you activate the air horn. On my current rig I have both a meek "city" horn and a couple of Hadleys for when I'm on the road. Regardless of which horn I need to use, the horn is activated by pushing on the center of the steering column. There's a rocker switch on the dash for me to set it to the horn I want. Is that the way the kit works, and if not, does it give you the option to set it up that way? Seems safer to have one place to go for the horn, regardless of the "volume" setting.
Looking forward to hearing (no pun intended!) how the installation turns out!
The one thing to remember is that you can't check the pressures of your van or toad WHILE you're driving, but the TPMS can! It's not just about checking tire pressures (which most people don't!), it's about knowing about any change to the pressures that could occur while we're driving that is important. If you hit something in the road and it causes a slow leak in a tire, it'd be nice to know that before it turns into a catastrophic condition.
BTW, the only thing I don't like about my current TPMS is that I have to remove the sensors each time I want to double-check the pressures with a gauge. The next time I buy a new TPMS I'm looking for a system with sensors that allow you to fill through them instead of having to remove them.
Best of luck!
Joe
aljimenez
'13 LTV Serenity on '12 3
I agree with what you say here about TPMS except the last paragraph. When I got my TPMS, they were of the type that you state you want. I found them too tall and heavy and I requested replacements for the smaller ones without the pass-through valves. I think it is best to have the smallest possible sensors on the tire valves. I have been quite happy with mine. I bought four more for my Jeep when I tow it and it is fantastic to have this insurance especially when towing a vehicle.
This Thread is on Trickle Charger, and this subject is not on track and it has been discussed many times before. Here are three threads discussing this subject:
On tire pressure checking:
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29331
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32735
On TPMS:
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29584
JoePhoenix
2016 Unity TB
The pass-through sensors are definitely taller, and therefore would cause more stress on the valves. Thanks for that point! I guess I won't be able to take the lazy man's way and will have to remove the sensors to double-check and/or fill the tires. 
Where are these jumper posts? I can't see them on my 2010 chassis, and the manual doesn't mention them. I would like to use them to check the battery voltage without taking the floor out.
It's the red knob on the right in the picture. You need to turn and push in to get access to the post.
Attachments
joeframer44
2014 Unity MB/U-lounge
So now I'm confused again regarding the Trikl-Start installation. I have a 2014 chassis (2014 Unity MB). Can all three leads coming off of the Trikl-Start be attached under the driver's seat? Is there a solenoid or a relay to connect to, or is it necessary to bring a lead over from the chassis or house batteries?
israndy
2007 LTV Serenity
There is a place on the RV where all three wires can be directly attached. But I cannot tell you where that isolator is on the 2014. If now one here knows you will have to trace wires. But they are very large wires so you shouldn't have too much trouble figuring out where the electricity is going from the car to the house batteries.
-Randy
-Randy
I have a 2014 & the solenoid is under the passenger seat.So now I'm confused again regarding the Trikl-Start installation. I have a 2014 chassis (2014 Unity MB). Can all three leads coming off of the Trikl-Start be attached under the driver's seat? Is there a solenoid or a relay to connect to, or is it necessary to bring a lead over from the chassis or house batteries?
On my 2014 Unity TB there is no solenoid under drivers seat, so I hooked it up temporarily by running a wire from the house battery to the Trik L start and then to the chassis battery. When I can a chance I will pull the passenger seat to see if it is there.So now I'm confused again regarding the Trikl-Start installation. I have a 2014 chassis (2014 Unity MB). Can all three leads coming off of the Trikl-Start be attached under the driver's seat? Is there a solenoid or a relay to connect to, or is it necessary to bring a lead over from the chassis or house batteries?
Don Horner
2012 Unity IB
As Peter mentioned in another thread, the 2012 has a momentary switch to connect the house batteries to the chassis battery to provide a starting boost. That switch is connected to a relay under the driver's seat. One side of the relay is the house batteries, the other side is the chassis battery. All I had to do was connect the Trik-L-Start to each side of the relay. The third wire went to ground. In their instructions, Trik-L-Start refers to it as an emergency start relay.
If you don't have that emergency start function, You'll have to look for the isolator or solenoid; I can't help you.
I use the 5 amp Trik-L-Start; I don't see any need for the 15 amp Amp-L-Start, not would I want to "borrow" 15 amps from the house battery charging circuit. It won't use that much to maintain the battery, but maintaining is the normal mode, and the 5 amp model is adequate.
By the way, if you go to BestConverter.com to buy the Trik-L-Start or get installation instructions, you'll also see the Toad-Charge, used to share 12V power with your towed vehicle and keep its battery charged by the motorhome alternator. I have an early Brake Buddy braking system for my toad; it uses 12V to run a small compressor to provide air pressure to apply the brakes. It's possible for that to run down the toad battery. It works great. I think it would also work for vehicles that recommend removing a fuse to prevent the battery from running down.
If you don't have that emergency start function, You'll have to look for the isolator or solenoid; I can't help you.
I use the 5 amp Trik-L-Start; I don't see any need for the 15 amp Amp-L-Start, not would I want to "borrow" 15 amps from the house battery charging circuit. It won't use that much to maintain the battery, but maintaining is the normal mode, and the 5 amp model is adequate.
By the way, if you go to BestConverter.com to buy the Trik-L-Start or get installation instructions, you'll also see the Toad-Charge, used to share 12V power with your towed vehicle and keep its battery charged by the motorhome alternator. I have an early Brake Buddy braking system for my toad; it uses 12V to run a small compressor to provide air pressure to apply the brakes. It's possible for that to run down the toad battery. It works great. I think it would also work for vehicles that recommend removing a fuse to prevent the battery from running down.
Gamma1966 I have the 2014 chassis too and I removed the Drivers seat to do the install following your posted instructions. I posted pictures of my layout and it is similar to yours except there is no solenoid under my seat, someone suggested it was under the passenger seat, I have yet to look under that seat to see if one there. Is your chassis a 2013 and for 2014 they changed the design and that's why it is different? By the way thanks for the detailed instructions on the install. Ralph
