CONTITECH Serpentine Belt - 6PK2257

ko4nrbs

Member
Is the CONTITECH Serpentine Belt - 6PK2257 the correct one for a 2006 Dodge Sprinter 3500 with air conditioning?
Bill
 

ko4nrbs

Member
Is the CONTITECH Serpentine Belt - 6PK2257 the correct one for a 2006 Dodge Sprinter 3500 with air conditioning?
Bill
The one that came off is a CONTITECH Serpentine Belt - 6PK2260. I found a post from Dennis at Linden Engineering that said the last four digits in the part number are the belt's length in mm. So the belt I got from Europarts (6PK2257) 7 years ago for a spare is 3mm shorter than the one that came off the van today (6PK2260).

I don't think the 3mm is a game changer. The tensioner can take up the difference.

I replaced it with a Gates K060888 (also has the number 6PK2258 on the package).

I'll keep the 6PK2257 for a spare.
Bill
 
Last edited:

220629

Well-known member
The one that came off is a CONTITECH Serpentine Belt - 6PK2260. I found a post from Dennis at Linden Engineering that said the last four digits in the part number are the belt's length in mm. So the belt I got from Europarts (6PK2257) 7 years ago for a spare is 3mm shorter than the one that came off the van today (6PK2260).

I don't think the 3mm is a game changer. The tensioner can take up the difference.

I replaced it with a Gates K060888 (also has the number 6PK2258 on the package).

I'll keep the 6PK2257 for a spare.
Bill
:idunno:

I had some similar questions. I ended up using a 2260 on my 2004. As you say, the 2257 is listed also and is likely fine.

So as to not leave this hanging, this is where it is as of now.

After I found out the pulley and the routing as found/left was correct (thanks again to Doktor A), I inspected the groove wear more closely. It is worn in a bit, but not as deeply as I had thought. I took it for a test drive. After running a bit I stopped and listened to the engine. The whirring noise is gone and everything seems to be ok. The new NAPA belt has a fuzzy finish so I wonder if that needed to seat? That's a guess though. The Dayco belt I returned had a similar fuzzy finish, but with a segmented vee. That was even noisier. Maybe the new segments needed to seat? It probably would have quieted down too. I was reluctant to run anything new very long if the pulley was incorrect.

I went to the parts store armed with a belt number Dayco 6PK2275 (895K6) which I had gleaned somewhere from the internet. Those numbers didn't surface. This is what I found for a 2004 2.7L w/air:

My removed belt had a Mercedes logo and #6PK2260.
Advance Auto = Dayco #6PK2260 (5060890) (segmented) ~$35.00
NAPA = Micro-V AT #060895 (no segments) ~$42.00

Hope this helps. vic
To throw a bit more sh*t into the game...

The smooth (flat) idler pulley originally recommended for the OM647 engine has now been changed to the lipped pulley being ok. The diameters are a bit different so that must slightly change things too.

Some info for the idler pulleys is in this thread:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5317

:2cents: vic
 

ko4nrbs

Member
I found this chart that also explains it some.


Looks like with a tensioner to take up the slack there are a few choices in ribbed belts.

Bill
 

ko4nrbs

Member
I contacted the factory in order to get it from the horse's mouth.
I told him I had a 6PK2260 on it when I bought it.

This is the reply I got.
Bill
2006 Dodge Sprinter 3500 (OM 647L 5 cyl. engine)

Hi Bill,

The belt you want is 6K2257 for your Dodge. The belt you mentioned would probably work, but we recommend the 2257 as a better fit.

Thanks for your inquiry!

Bob Trevor
Manager, Sales Operations
CRP Industries, Inc.
35 Commerce Drive
Cranbury, NJ 08512
Tel: 800-526-4066, x-237
rtrevor@crpindustries.com
www.crpindustries.com
 

220629

Well-known member
Has anyone looked at a scale to see how long 3 mm difference is? Now compare that to the overall length of a Sprinter serpentine belt?

For those of us in the USA 3 mm is approximately 1/8" long.

2257 mm = 88.85827 inches or 7.4049 ft.

2260 mm = 88.9764 inches or 7.4147 ft.

A difference of 0.0098 ft. = 0.1176 inches = 2.9870 mm

That's 1/8" added to 7.4049 ft.

This entire issue is absolutely, positively nothing to worry about. Some disagree. A Mercedes dealership will supply you a belt based upon your VIN number.

:cheers: vic

P.S. - I recall adjusting the old Vee belts and I can't imagine that 3 mm with a spring loaded tensioner is so critical. Maybe that is why the different belt manufacturers supply different length belts... because they are all within the OEM acceptable design range. :idunno:
 
Last edited:

220629

Well-known member
...

This entire issue is absolutely, positively nothing to worry about.

:cheers: vic
...
So maybe that statement is a bit strong. there is (at least) one who has more experience than I do who disagrees.

For info many manufacturers recommended a tensioner change out at 100K miles.

In fact GM has issued a bulletin to reject warranty on such things as water pumps, alternator and idler pulleys if the tensioner has been on the engine for more than 100,000 miles. That equates to about 5 years of heavier driving and nine years of low mileage usage!

When the service interval mentions check the tensioner and belting it means a bit more than just a visual. We use a torquemeter to gauge the coiled spring tension and use a Gates groove depth gauge to see how much the rib has worn away. Its a GM tool & Gates tool respectfully but both work well on other applicators including MB stuff.

Take a look at this article it goes into depth about what I have mentioned in brevity.
http://www.gates.com/products/autom.../belt-wear-diagnosis/epdm-belt-wear-diagnosis

Today's belts are made in EPDM materials so they don't show cracks like the older neoprene belts. Yes as the belt wears and seats down onto the pulleys slip is inevitable which causes accelerated wear. How does the wear come from? Well simple the tensioner if its past its best!

On 901/902 /903 Sprinter be mindful that there are differing lengths by about 3mm or 1/8th. While this might not seem much when the tensioner is worn or the housed loading spring tension has relaxed it can make a difference.

Overheating and elevated top pipe temperatures should be avoided as this can cause some very expensive damage if the engine is continually distressed. Its fortunate that the MB engine has a lot of abuse resistance but there are limits to that and a new belt tensioner at about $140 every 5 years is cheap insurance against possible overheating especially when ambients soar past 100 dgf as they do out West here in the summertime.

Its back to the old Fram slogan "Pay me now or pay me later" usually later means big bucks!
Dennis
Given Dennis' input and the fact that Dodge does list belts for the 2.7L which are within 5 mm, maybe it is that critical. :idunno:

It is interesting that while on the Dodge site when I clicked both "Show All Dodge Sprinter 2500 > Cooling Drive Belts" and "Show All Dodge Sprinter 3500 > Cooling Drive Belts" for 2003 - 2009 there are no 3 mm difference choices which I find for the Sprinter. The choices shown are 21.36x2260, 21.36x2265, and 21.36x2271 depending upon certain code and options listed.

The shorter 2257 length belt mentioned in the other thread never even comes up. The only listings that I found for 2257 were aftermarket parts.

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=612246

...

So let's approach this from a different angle.

A belt manufacturer rep, not MB, indicated that the 2257 was the correct belt. That is their belt manufacturer's information so maybe not what MB would tell you. I can't find a 2.7L MB 2257 belt for Sprinter listed anywhere.

My removed belt (2004 with A/C) had a Mercedes logo and #6PK2260.

I replaced with Advance Auto = Dayco #6PK2260 (5060890) (segmented) ~$35.00

Dennis indicates that belts are VIN number specific.

What OEM belts with a MB logo on them has anyone removed or been supplied by the dealership by VIN number?

I removed a #6PK2260 MB logo belt. That is consistent with the parts info that I have found for my van.

If the MB logo belt lengths are all over the range, then that would indicate that MB does feel it is that critical to custom fit belts by supplying little millimeter different choices... or maybe some aftermarket suppliers have just decided to change the spec on their own.

Just curious.

vic
 
Last edited:

calbiker

Well-known member
Talkinghorse had several catastrophic tensioner failures. Perhaps the tensioner shouldn't be blamed? Perhaps the tighter 2257 belt put the tensioner into the upper limits of its operating range?

Cal
 

220629

Well-known member
Talkinghorse had several catastrophic tensioner failures. Perhaps the tensioner shouldn't be blamed? Perhaps the tighter 2257 belt put the tensioner into the upper limits of its operating range?

Cal
Good memory and observation! :thumbup:

Along the same line...

The OM647 OEM smooth idler pulley(s) are 56 mm diameter. The presently recommended lipped idler pulley is 70 mm in diameter.

"After further reflection...

Personally I would choose the flat style pulley as designed. (Edit: Maybe not. Read further.) Have fun. vic"
******
20111123 edit to Stoopid Things: There is a note in red on the Europarts listing that the grooved pulley is now listed by Dodge for the 2004 - 2006 OM647 engines.

If your Sprinter is a 2004-2006 model and the original upper pulley fitted to your engine is smooth and slightly smaller (56 mm) in diameter, this slightly larger ribbed pulley is to be used as a replacement unit. This is the pulley now specified as the correct replacement for both upper and lower idlers on the Dodge parts diagram.

The part link should be here: (Updated Oct. 2012)
http://europarts-sd.com/serpentinebeltidlerpulley-small2002-2006.asp

If the link is no longer valid use these search words/info at Europarts.
Sprinter 2002-2006 Engine Cooling System
Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley-Small 2002-2006
Ribbed surface
2 required
Sold in increments of 1
70 mm O.D.
27 mm Thickness
There are two of these on all 5-cylinder engines.

*If your Sprinter is a 2004-2006 model and the original upper pulley fitted to your engine is smooth and slightly smaller (56 mm) in diameter, this slightly larger ribbed pulley is to be used as a replacement unit. This is the pulley now specified as the correct replacement for both upper and lower idlers on the Dodge parts diagram.

******
My guess is that as a practical matter it has been discovered that the pulley alignment on the OM647 engine is OK for the grooved pulley design. It does mean that you now only need one pulley on hand as a spare if you trust the Europarts comment. I don't mean to suggest that you shouldn't trust the comment. I would be interested to know how much more tension that extra diameter adds to the belt system and therefore to the bearings? It's probably negligible. FWIW. vic
Even if the 70 mm diameter pulley measurement includes the lip and not just the belt contact surface, it is a larger diameter than the OEM 56 mm. So the combination of both the shorter 2257 belt and the larger replacement idler pulleys would make things even worse.

:cheers: vic
 

220629

Well-known member
I guess that I was rolling the issue of proper length belts around a bit overnight.

It seems to me that anyone who replaces their OM647 engine idler pulleys with the larger lipped design pulley would be well advised to only install the length of belt recommended for the vehicle by Mother Mercedes. Going to a shorter *recommended* aftermarket belt only increases the tension further on the system.

By keeping the OEM belt length (PK2260 for my OM647) you at least keep one of the variables original/constant.

And yes, I realize that this is a different tune than the one I sang in post #7.

:2cents: vic
 

Oilburner

2004 2500 140"cargo l/r x 2
When I was changing my belt due to alternator clutch failure, I bought new pulley, one to replace smaller, smooth one, I could not fit the belt on the new pulley, so I left the small one. Belt was purchased at MB dealer with van VIN# so my question is- which belt need to be installed with new larger pulleys? I am planning to replace tensioner (have Litens already NIB) and then I would put the new larger grooved pulley (that smaller smooth is fine, but I rather replace with new one).
 

von van

New member
while replacing the high pressure fuel relief valve to rid my 2004 sprinter of that buzz, hum or droning noise, I investigated why the serpintine belt would chirp when the fan clutch engaged at 2500 rpm +. well, the original (?) contitech belt on the engine was abit longer than the replacement from Euro Parts, different # too. the flat idler pully had a wisper indicating dry bearings so i replaced it with the larger ribbed replacement and installed the shorter belt. No more buzzing from the relief valive and no more chirping from the belt under demanding conditions. the fan removal tools for $40 on ebay make the job easy. I found relieving the pressure on the tightner no problem from underneath, lots more room for maneuvering. the tensioner is at it's upper limit. Initially my son suggested the original belt may have hardened, which can be checked with a shot of belt dressing, which I did and the chirping was diminished, only a temporary fix.
 
Last edited:
Dredging up this old thread because it is quite relevant. I went to get a new belt today. I have a 10 year old (in May) chassis that has 18K miles on it. The serpentine belt looks perfect, you can read the Continental markings and the 6PK2260 number on it as plain as day. I'm sure it is the original belt. Went to buy a NAPA belt, made by Gates, the recommended belt, by looking up make/model, and also crossing the 6PK2260 over is a NAPA 25060888 which is 2273 mm long, about a half inch over what the original belt is. I found another thread with several numbers, one of the NAPA numbers is no longer any good (060895) and the Dayco belt 5060890 has a (drum roll please) "effective length 89 inches" according to the web site.

Belts stretch, though serpentine belts don't stretch like old V belts did, so shorter is better, to a degree. It appears that Gates does not make a 2260 length belt, as their web site, by VIN lookup also gives the 2273 belt as correct one (might be perfect with the larger "anti flutter" pulley) but I finally started looking and found the ContiTech 2257 length belt (part number 6PK2260) at AutohausAZ for $28.26 and free shipping over $48 (So I ordered a Febi 722.6 dipstick to keep in the vehicle for $36.12) and got the free shipping. EuropartsSD is high on shipping and was $29.95 on the belt.

Looking for a lock pin for the tensioner. I know people stick things in there that get bent and broken and damage the tensioner, etc. I'm thinking a slip fit hardened steel split roll pin that is long enough to stick out would work well. Any suggestions on pins you have used, good and bad. I want to break loose the two mount bolts for the tensioner and pull them one at a time and put anti-seize on the threads.

Charles
 
As suggested by Dr. A, the nonworking end of a drill bit.
Yes, finally found that the shank of a 1/8 drill bit worked perfectly, as tight a fit as possible. Bit and ½ dr socket now reside in my tool bag for the motorhome, to be combined with my 2 ft Harbor Freight breaker bar, which I am also keeping in it for lugnut removal (with 19 mm socket and rather long extension) and a 2x6 with holes drilled staggered about 1-1/2 inch intervals to put the extension thru to stabilize it for loosening and tightening the rear wheels.

I pulled the two mounting bolts on the tensioner, one at a time and anti-seized the threads and reinstalled.

Charles
 
Last edited:

Top Bottom