From what I gather reading my MB information pkg... It appears that 'jacking up your RV (3500) is NOT recommended. They advise you to call for a professional. Is there something special about the Sprinter Chassis ? In my case, checking the tire pressure in my rear dual wheels is impossible. And it looks like the wheels will have to come off to install the extenders. My Mercedes Dealer will do so for $130. This isn't my first RV... Any comments out there?
Changing a tire
- Thread starter MeRob
- Start date
sailquik
Well-known member
MeRob,
Where did you read this recommendation?
If you place the jack correctly, on a stable base (2 x 12 lumber...oak or hardwood is best) there is really no reason not to change a tire on a Sprinter 3500 (even an RV as the OEM hydraulic jack is rated @ 6 tons (12,000 lbs.).
The chassis jacking points are clearly illustrated/located in the Owner's manual.
If your RV up fitter put tanks/lines/devices under your Sprinter that prevents using the factory installed jacking points, you probably need to take that issue up with the engineering folks at the up fitters and maybe let the folks at MB Sprinter Compliance Engineering in Ladson, SC know as well.
Be sure to use adequate chocks to prevent it rolling off the jack!
As far as checking the pressures in the rear dual tires, I've never had a problem.
Do you have simulators on your RV..... there's the problem...and again, something to be discussed with the
sales and engineering folks at the up fitter.
Roger
P.S. As showkey has suggested, get a minimum 1/2" drive x 24" breaker bar, a 6" extension (to get the breaker bar outside the wheel in the back), and a quality 19 mm metric flank drive socket (regular socket is OK, but a flank drive impact socket is better and there are no clearance issues around the lug nuts).
I use a 19mm flank drive deep socket that I carry specially for my Sprinter 516/519 series (3500 w DRW in the USA)
lug nuts.
You are looking at 177 foot pounds/240 Nm of torque. for the OEM steel wheels.
Might also be good to buy a torque wrench so you can tighten the lugs or check the torque before setting off on a trip.
As suggested, eat your Wheaties before changing a tire on a Sprinter.
Where did you read this recommendation?
If you place the jack correctly, on a stable base (2 x 12 lumber...oak or hardwood is best) there is really no reason not to change a tire on a Sprinter 3500 (even an RV as the OEM hydraulic jack is rated @ 6 tons (12,000 lbs.).
The chassis jacking points are clearly illustrated/located in the Owner's manual.
If your RV up fitter put tanks/lines/devices under your Sprinter that prevents using the factory installed jacking points, you probably need to take that issue up with the engineering folks at the up fitters and maybe let the folks at MB Sprinter Compliance Engineering in Ladson, SC know as well.
Be sure to use adequate chocks to prevent it rolling off the jack!
As far as checking the pressures in the rear dual tires, I've never had a problem.
Do you have simulators on your RV..... there's the problem...and again, something to be discussed with the
sales and engineering folks at the up fitter.
Roger
P.S. As showkey has suggested, get a minimum 1/2" drive x 24" breaker bar, a 6" extension (to get the breaker bar outside the wheel in the back), and a quality 19 mm metric flank drive socket (regular socket is OK, but a flank drive impact socket is better and there are no clearance issues around the lug nuts).
I use a 19mm flank drive deep socket that I carry specially for my Sprinter 516/519 series (3500 w DRW in the USA)
lug nuts.
You are looking at 177 foot pounds/240 Nm of torque. for the OEM steel wheels.
Might also be good to buy a torque wrench so you can tighten the lugs or check the torque before setting off on a trip.
As suggested, eat your Wheaties before changing a tire on a Sprinter.
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The factory jack is actually of great quality and functions well. The factory jack is far better than the cheap china floor jacks that one might think is a better choice. One corner of a 3500 RV could weigh in at 3500 lbs
As Sail said follow the owners manual carefully, choose level firm ground for the repair.
The lugs nuts are very tight the proper socket and eat your wheaties. I carry a quality breaker bar but the factory tools work. But again you must follow the directions. This is best done on your driveway at home, practice first
On my RV the rear hub cap has to be removed to check the pressure and you use an offset or reverse chuck gauge to actually check the pressure.
Mine came with small 1.5 inch valve extensions from the factory. That makes the job a little easier. Hose type extensions very in quality, cost and function. Some people love them other say they cause more leaks and valve stem failure issues.
Some of the high end extension hoses mean the valve stems are replaced during install and the tires must be broke down off the rims during install.
Others have posted their RV did not come with a spare or the spare only fits the front because of the full aluminum rim. Again this is good info to know and find out in your driveway and not on the tollway at midnight.
In a pinch or real jam.......a couple of cans of "fix a flat" can save the day and get you to a repair facility.
As Sail said follow the owners manual carefully, choose level firm ground for the repair.
The lugs nuts are very tight the proper socket and eat your wheaties. I carry a quality breaker bar but the factory tools work. But again you must follow the directions. This is best done on your driveway at home, practice first
On my RV the rear hub cap has to be removed to check the pressure and you use an offset or reverse chuck gauge to actually check the pressure.
Mine came with small 1.5 inch valve extensions from the factory. That makes the job a little easier. Hose type extensions very in quality, cost and function. Some people love them other say they cause more leaks and valve stem failure issues.
Some of the high end extension hoses mean the valve stems are replaced during install and the tires must be broke down off the rims during install.
Others have posted their RV did not come with a spare or the spare only fits the front because of the full aluminum rim. Again this is good info to know and find out in your driveway and not on the tollway at midnight.
In a pinch or real jam.......a couple of cans of "fix a flat" can save the day and get you to a repair facility.
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Graphite Dave
Dave Orton
The important recommendation is to practice in your driveway. I found that the lug wrench supplied by Mercedes would not remove the wheel nuts. Added cheater bar and that just started to bend the lug wrench. So off the HF to buy a breaker bar and socket.
Also had to ask dealer how to remove the hubcaps without breaking them. ( on 2500 with steel wheels). That was solved by removing them and storing them permanently in the barn.
Also had to ask dealer how to remove the hubcaps without breaking them. ( on 2500 with steel wheels). That was solved by removing them and storing them permanently in the barn.
Thanks to all for your excellent advice. The "Don't try this at home" advice came from MB. It was well meant I'm sure. i've has more than few surprises with this RV. Not unpleasant...just surprises. Its too expensive to screw-up. If it quits roasting or raining I'll get at it. Thanks again! Rob
Considering the overwhelming amount of written information dedicated to the care and upkeep of the tires on my RV ... AND that fact that they suggest checking your tire pressures once a month... WHY did they make checking the dual wheels such an onerous bloody job? Surely adding 4 valve extensions at the point of sale wouldn't hurt deter the sale. AGH!
CJPJ
2008 3500 170 EXTD 3.0 V6 OM642.993 4.182
Do not torque your 3500s Lug Nuts to 177 foot pounds.
Owners Manuel calls out for the ... 3500's Lug Nuts to be torqued @ 133 ft. pounds.
Owners Manuel call for Lug Bolts to get the 177 torque value.
Lug Bolts are not used on a 3500.
The 3500 uses Lug Nuts.
The Germans translation of the owners Manuel can cause confusion.Interesting info guys,
I have a 2004 Freightliner 3500. I finally am getting around to changing all the brake pads. I bought a 4 ton floor jack from Harbor Freight. I used it at the front jack point and it lifted to the max height and barely got the tire off the ground. Tomorrow I am putting the jack at the lift point at the transmission cross member. I have four different 3 ton jack stands to use. I have seen here to use a 6" block. I broke out the factory jack, but it seems old and frail. And it makes me quiver when I think of lifting one corner of a 9900 lb van 20" in the air.
I will post pics tomorrow. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Dan
I have a 2004 Freightliner 3500. I finally am getting around to changing all the brake pads. I bought a 4 ton floor jack from Harbor Freight. I used it at the front jack point and it lifted to the max height and barely got the tire off the ground. Tomorrow I am putting the jack at the lift point at the transmission cross member. I have four different 3 ton jack stands to use. I have seen here to use a 6" block. I broke out the factory jack, but it seems old and frail. And it makes me quiver when I think of lifting one corner of a 9900 lb van 20" in the air.
I will post pics tomorrow. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Dan
sailquik
Well-known member
USTenor,
Ummmmmm....... WHAT "under the transmission cross member lift point" ?
You plan to lift the entire front of the a 2004 Sprinter 3500 but the cross member at the back of the transmission???
Good luck with that!
The reason the put jacking points under the vehicle and told you where they are and how to use them would seem
pretty clear to me.
Now if you have a 4 point "under the entire frame" hydraulic lift (like they have in authorized MB Sprinter specific repair shops)
that would work, but all I've ever seen is a transmission jack under the transmission to raise it slightly for transmission maintenance.
Roger
Ummmmmm....... WHAT "under the transmission cross member lift point" ?
You plan to lift the entire front of the a 2004 Sprinter 3500 but the cross member at the back of the transmission???
Good luck with that!
The reason the put jacking points under the vehicle and told you where they are and how to use them would seem
pretty clear to me.
Now if you have a 4 point "under the entire frame" hydraulic lift (like they have in authorized MB Sprinter specific repair shops)
that would work, but all I've ever seen is a transmission jack under the transmission to raise it slightly for transmission maintenance.
Roger