Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
No Low Fuel Pressure Light OM647 Sprinters

The pre-2004 NAFTA Sprinters have a Low Fuel Pressure idiot light related to the two mechanical fuel pump design that the OM612 engine employs. It is located on the far left side of the dash and looks like a railroad track under a gas pump. The 2004 and beyond NAFTA Sprinter engines have an in tank electric fuel pump and have no Low Fuel Pressure indicator.

Now the reason I am posting this here in Stoopid Things. My 2004 OEM manual shows the Low Fuel Pressure icon on pages #92, 95, 96, 97, 98, 135, 147,148,and 149. It never highlights it to explain it, it's just there showing in the diagrams.

Here's a scan of the dash as it should look.

2004Dash.jpg

Here's a scan showing the Low Fuel Pressure icon I don't have.

LowFuelPress.jpg

A bit more info is here if you're interested.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=61993#post61993

AP/vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Park light switch operation

As with many of the things I highlight in this Stoopid Things thread, this really isn't stoopid because it makes sense.:thumbup: Even so, I never would have thunk to try it.:thinking: (OK....I know it's probably in the manual.)

Thanks goes to dbradley and other posters.

Operation Description from dbradley

"The "P" position (on the stalk) is a European feature for night time parking on the narrow streets over there. Place the switch in "P" and switch your blinker left or right depending on which side is "outboard" in the street. It illuminates the front and rear parking lights on the "outboard" side only to alert drivers that "there is a vehicle here and it is this far from the curb". You can typically leave them on all night and be good to go in the morning. Hope this helps."

The thread is here:
"P" Position On Headlight Switch
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7797

I do wonder if the police in the USA may give you a ticket if they notice the opposite side lights are out. We can be so provincial at times. AP/vic
 
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surlyoldbill

Active member
Tried it last night, with motor ON it's just a turn signal.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Engine oil hi/low monitor in a T1N 5 cyl.

This one should probably have been highlighted earlier than this.

Your Sprinter has a low oil level monitor and a high oil level monitor. An oil change including a new filter calls for 9.5 quarts. Do not dump in the extra 1/2 quart you have left over figuring it's "close enough" unless you want to be bothered by the high oil level warning.

Generally red handle dip sticks are for checking for proper oil level at operating temperature. Yellow handle dip sticks are generally for checking the oil level cold. It is unlikely you will find a yellow cold level dip stick unless your Sprinter was a fleet vehicle.

Personally I only put in 9 quarts for my oil/filter change. You will not hurt the engine by running it in the safe range. After a few days I may add more oil if I find the level favoring the low side. It doesn't need to always be at the top mark. Very high oil level is not good, nor is very low. Just keep it in the safe range.

2010/02/07 edit: Do not ever ignore the high oil indicator should it come on, especially if you haven't recently changed the oil. In some circumstances a very high oil level may cause engine oil to feed into the intake system and cause runaway or uncontrolled running of the engine. FWIW.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine_runaway
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/RunAwayDiesel

The latest oil level post is here:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7952

Hope this does some good. AP/vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
The NCV3 Models have a Rear Fog Light Feature

Unfortunately it apparently is not a feature for the T1N's.

Thanks goes to dilleyoshempy.

Text here:
"Today while sitting in the van trying to kill time I noticed that the sprinter has a rear fog lamp! If you turn the lighting dial on the left side of the steering wheel to the low beam setting and pull it towards you one of the symbols on the dial will glow orange\red and you just activated the rear fog lamp!"

Thread is here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8392

AP/vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Low Roof vs Standard Roof

Per Mercedes speak a low roof model T1N Sprinter is a cab chassis only. An aftermarket body/box/RV/etc gets installed behind it on the frame.

A "standard" roof model is a HC T1N Sprinter van which is the shortest roof OEM for vans. In Mercedes speak "High Cab" as compared to Cab Chassis *low* models.) The SHC Super High Cab is the tallest OEM van roof offered.

The reason I posted this?:idunno: If you ever need a windshield or gasket for your standard roof Sprinter van do not mistakenly order a low roof windshield. It will not fit.:thumbdown: Hope this does some good. AP/vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Possible Start Error Security Interference

I have no way to know if this is a common problem, but thought it was worth including here just in case. Thanks to Bill Boyer and Yahoo Sprintervan.

Re: [sprintervan] Start error

Got any other wireless security items on your keychain? ie Exxon / Mobil SpeedPass, one of those Visa no-swipe cards, etc...? Those will cause the Sprinter key to be misread if they are in proximity of the key when you try to start.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/sprintervan/message/53807

AP/vic
 

mendonsy

Member
Another ignition key with a "chip" in it on your key chain can also cause a Start Error. I found out the hard way that my '07 Toyota Tundra key will do it!
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Removing the license plate lamp assemblies without damage

IMHO this does qualify as a real Stoopid Thing. That said, it may be covered in the operators manual under lighting.

I needed to remove the 2 ea. license plate lamp assemblies on my NAFTA 2004 T1N to grind away the rust under the paint. Molded into each end of the black plastic assemblies is a nice little screw driver slot. It looks easy to just pop out the assembly to change a lamp.:clapping:

Except for this little problem.:thumbdown: On the left side (facing the unit) there is a spring loaded clip that will release when a small blade is pushed in which then allows the plastic assembly to pivot down. The problem is that if you start by prying on the right side, it has no clip and will not release. What is worse is that you may chip away the paint by trying that end first. Like I did. :bash: Fortunately(?) for me the paint was already bad..... I mean terrible on my vehicle. The slot on the "no clip" right side serves no real purpose I can see. Once the other correct side is released, the unit pivots down with no prying necessary on the right side.

There is no indication that I could see to direct you to the left side. (OK. Maybe they mention it in the owners manual?) Until the unit is removed the spring clip is well hidden. Hope this does some good. AP/vic

2010/06/14 edit - I discovered there are different wattage lamps in the style which fits the license plate socket. I found 5 watt, 10 watt, and 20 watt sizes. I believe you want to use the smallest wattage because there is no place for the heat go. I recommend a 6418LL style lamp. It is 13.5 volt/5W so it will have less heat.
 
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maxextz

Rollin Rollin Rollin.....
those plate lights are just crap ive broken mine and it keeps falling out, on the same subject of those pesky lights if you remove the rear door cover you will see black marks just above were the heat from the bulbs rises so if your doing any insulation keep the heat those bulbs make in mind.
max...............:2cents:
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
those plate lights are just crap....
Max,
I gotta agree. My left light had a spring contact that was partially melted.

BadLight.jpg

Here's the spring contact removed:

BadLightContact.jpg

I replaced it with a modified Ohmite wire wound power resistor spring type standoff I had hanging around. Mostly because it was easier than chasing down a light unit, not because it's a better solution.

BadLightRepaired.jpg

...if you remove the rear door cover you will see black marks just above where the heat from the bulbs rises so if your doing any insulation keep the heat those bulbs make in mind.
max...............
I don't generally feel the LED lamp replacements are worth the extra cost unless power consumption is a priority. In this case LED replacements might be a good investment to keep the loads on the clips and heating under control. Thanks for the additional info. AP/vic

2010/06/14 edit - I discovered there are different wattage lamps in the style which fits the license plate socket. I found 5 watt, 10 watt, and 20 watt sizes. I believe you want to use the smallest wattage because there is no place for the heat go. I recommend a 6418LL style lamp. It is 13.5 volt/5W so it will have less heat.

20181019 edit - I tried using LED's for the license plate lamps. I found that the lower current made them susceptible to making bad contact and being intermittent. To avoid being pulled over for a stupid license plate lamp I went back to the 5 watt incandescent lamps.
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
This is definitely not a Stoopid Thing. Everyone should remember this, and keep a copy of the number somewhere in their Sprinter. I have it written in grease pencil on the underside of my hood.

"Call my Sprinter Hot Line 864-623-9110. Doktor A".

864 623-9110 and an address of 500 RC Edwards School Rd. Central SC

We have left Pittsburgh behind and are finally fully settled in our new digs just west of Greenville, South Carolina. That's south of Asheville, NC and just off I-85 midway between Atlanta and Charlotte.

The Sprinter Hot Line phone number is now 864-623-9110.
Andy Bittenbinder (abittenbinder here on Sprinter-source) has been a great contributor to Sprinter-source and also is a moderator at Yahoo Sprintervan. He is located in the Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania South Carolina area which is the Southeast USA/North American Eastern Time Zone. If you own a Sprinter and you didn't have this information up to now, I know this does some good. AP/vic

2010/05/31 edit
In sprintervan@yahoogroups.com, "Stan Wingert" adds,
"have a pad of paper handy when you call him"

That is a great comment because you won't be able to remember all Andy will tell you. vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Remember to turn off the upper vents in cold weather

The two HVAC vents on the upper dash in your Sprinter do not get heated by the heater core (but are located after the evaporator A/C cooling coil?). In winter they will blow ambient temperature fresh outside air (that's cold air in the winter:professor:) and reduce the amount of flow to your defrosters. Closing all the vents on the dash face will also further increase the flow out of the defroster vents and to your feet depending upon the selection knob position.

A recent discussion is here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8891

AP/vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
The T1N OM647 Engine (2004 - 2006) Turbo Air Hose is listed as a Coolant Hose.
2001 - 2006 Hose/part Order Info is Here Also

Editted 20130816 to clarify.

Verify that the numbers fit for your application.

This is the top turbo hose (sold as 3 piece assembly only). Charge Air Cooler outlet to manifold inlet:

0000ManifoldInletHoseNotes.jpg

As of 20130815 it is only sold as a 3 piece hose - plastic sensor housing coupler - hose assembly.

Lower Hose Area (Charge Air Cooler to plastic sensor housing):

0000ChargeAir2PlasticLower.jpg

My hoses have black cable ties installed as a life extending reinforcement experiment.

Verify that the numbers fit for your application.

NAFTA 2004 - 2006 OM647 Hose Info

5120147AA OM647 = 3 piece upper hose assembly
5120148AA OM647 = Turbo side lower hose (Turbo Resonator to Charge air Cooler inlet)
Turbo Resonator TR - Dorman 904-303 Turbo Sound and Vibration Dampener
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-303-Turbo-Vibration-Dampener/dp/B002E323DS

NAFTA 2001 - 2003 OM612 Hose Info

5104141AA OM612 = 3 piece upper hose assembly.

5104142AA OM612 = One type of Turbo side lower hose - Style A ID = 63mm or 2.2"
Freightliner? Part # 901 528 43 82 (Interchange #A9015284382)

5129577AA OM612 = One type of Turbo side lower hose - Style B ID = 54mm or 2 1/8"
Freightliner? Part # 901 528 52 82 (Interchange #A9015285282)


Note: No Turbo Resonator on the OM612 engine.

There are two types of lower turbo side hoses of different diameter. Europarts calls them Style A and Style B. Selection info is here:

Eurpoparts lists Turbo to Charge Air inlet 2002 - 2003 Type B at $53.46
(check the inside diameter on the intercooler end. This hose has an I.D. of 54 mm, or approximately 2 1/8")
Reference here:
http://europarts-sd.com/hose-turboch...r2002-2003.asp

Europarts lists Turbo to Charge Air inlet 2002 - 2003 Type A at $51.96
(The I.D. on this hose is 63 mm or approximately 2 1/2 inches.)
Reference here: (note that the link uses 2004 - 2006??)
http://europarts-sd.com/hose-turboch...r2004-2006.asp
or search in Europarts by using "hose type A".

Temporary Repair Suggestions

I cleaned mine with brake cleaner and patched it with shoe goo, a piece of innertube, and a couple of zip ties. Got me to the parts store and back. I would have used contact cement if I could have found some. I think the key ingredient is the zip ties. Call around to the local dodge and MBZ dealers. Somebody has one in stock. For sure Steve at SD Europarts has them if you can wait.
I agree completely. You need something unyielding for the patch material to be squeezed against as the hose expands.

From another member I learned to consider a tire tube patch. It seems ideal to me as long as it is backed up by some cable ties, braided picture wire wraps, fishing line, or etc. to contain the expansion. Something to distribute the load as Roger suggests with a piece of tin helps too. I would consider a tire tube patch followed by wrapping as a temporary/permanent situation until the parts arrive. The worst that can happen is that you go back to LHM and need to repair again.

vic
Some additional information based upon experience and a length of service experiment. Thanks Bruce. :thumbup:
I am on my third intake hose - each one has failed in the same area. My last semi permanent repair lasted over a year. I got a new hose after the hose split, but I wanted to see how long the repair lasted.
First,clean the area with acetone to remove the dirt, dust and oily residue. I use a radial tire patch and rubber cement. Apply a good coat of rubber cement, let dry, then apply the patch. Cover the patch with gorilla tape. Secure with your choice of zip ties or metal hose clamps. I've used both. The hose clamps work very well if the hole is on a straight section.
I recently had the hose split on the turbo side from the resonator to the intercooler. The split was very hard to control - I even tried using about a dozen zip ties. All I managed to do was to slow the leak until I got the replacement hose within the week.

Bruce
I put my cable ties on before failure. Seems to be helping. vic



***************************************************************
Misc. links from original post are here:

#10 in this diagram.
http://www.wermopar.com/oem-part/do...ler/outer-hose/5120147aa?search_str=5120147AA
Single post:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25817&postcount=10
Original thread is here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3308

A more recent thread is here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9001

My Cheap Trick using cables ties may be of interest:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=60376&postcount=70
Lower = 0 5104142AA
Turbo to Charge Air Cooler
#4 in this diagram
http://www.wermopar.com/oem-part/do...system/intercooler/intercooler-hose/5104142aa

These links provide pictures of the 5120147AA 3 piece assembly.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-06-DODGE...OOLER-AIR-CHARGE-HOSE-MOPAR-OEM-/110922876198
Lower = 0 5104142AA
Turbo to Charge Air Cooler
#4 in this diagram
http://www.wermopar.com/oem-part/do...system/intercooler/intercooler-hose/5104142aa

These links provide pictures of the 5120147AA 3 piece assembly.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-06-DODGE...OOLER-AIR-CHARGE-HOSE-MOPAR-OEM-/110922876198

http://europarts-sd.com/hose-intercoolertointake2002-2006.asp
0 5120148AA Sprinter (1 ea. hose)

Other Part Number: 5120148AA 05120148

This is the hose from the turbo resonator to the Charge Air cooler.
Charge Air Hose-Turbocharger to Intercooler 2004-2006 (2001 - 2003 is different and has different types within those years.)

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com...y-Line--3-7-Body-Line/4293598/05120148AA.html

http://europarts-sd.com/hose-airinduction2004-2006.asp

Verify that the numbers fit for your application.

The quality of the Dorman replacement hose(s) may be suspect.

Interesting and not encouraging.


https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-0...73186566&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=doorma+904-097

I was unable to copy/paste the picture. Clicking on Reviews and then the image gives a larger view. It appears like cracking all the way around the hose where the clamp seats. Pretty nasty looking for such a short time.

I'll stay with OEM and my cable ties. (Cable ties won't help with the Review picture Dorman cracking/potential failure.)

View attachment 79140

If I were a professional I'd be installing OEM as Dennis suggests. As a DIY owner I know that I can effect a temporary repair on an OEM hose if ever necessary.

vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Anti-freeze coolant G05 type

You should be using G05 type coolant in your NAFTA Sprinter diesel engine meeting the Mercedes MB 325.0 spec. Many auto parts stores do not carry the recommended coolant and will tell you the "any color" stuff which is advertised for all vehicles is OK. I personally would not use the "any color" stuff except in an emergency because you dilute the long life of the original G05 HOAT chemistry.

I found these link discussions helpful:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/coolant-hoat-214066/
http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php?t=5763
Particularly post #4

One brand available at NAPA is Prestone Xerex G05. There are other brands also. As long as it is G05 type, the color within that chemistry type doesn't matter.

A recent post:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=75509#post75509

***
Text from that post:
From the 2004 Sprinter owner's manual:

Coolant: Use coolant approved to MB 325.0, such as Valvoline GO5, or an equivalent Extended Life Coolant.

From my notes. Sorry I don't have the original source.

"Zerex G05 (Mopar 68029698-AA), incidentally, is the initial fill in PT Cruisers and many other Chrysler products. For the Sprinter, Mercedes and several Jeep models, the initial fill is the Glysantin G05, which is made by BASF, and is the same product found in the Mopar 05066286-AA jug. Some models, especially in Canada, use Zerex G48 (Mopar 6804893-AA) as the initial fill. All three of these have identical chemistries, and if you take the Sprinter to a dealer for a cooling system drain and renew, you could get any one of the three put into the system, as they are interchangeable and mixable (even though they are different colors, actually).

EURO Peak Coolant/Antifreeze manufactured by Old World Industries is also the same chemistry, and also is on The List of MB Spec 325.0 coolants. But I don't think you can get that here in North America, at least not in the States, anyway."

From the Valvoline Zerex site:

https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/antifreeze-products

I see nothing wrong with using the Zerex G05 coolant in the correct ratio or mixing it with other proper spec coolants regardless of color. AP/vic
***

Don't let the color of the proper chemistry coolant worry you. AP/vic

Added:

It appears that Zerex G 05 may have fallen off the BeVo list. (It may be a clerical list thing.) I'll continue to use Xerex G 05 because it is listed in my Operator manual which Mercedes states always applies.

MB325.0 is "Application area in all passenger vehicles and passenger vehicle engines produced until April 2014 Application area in commercial vehicles and industrial engines according MB BeVo 310.1"

Note "OM6xx".
BeVoAntifreeze.jpg]
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/d/d/en/Spec_310_1.pdf

From the Advanced Auto Parts Xerex G 05 web page.
"G-05 is a good substitute for G-48 coolant which is hard to get in the US. G-48 is the approved BMW coolant formulation. Only significant difference is B-05 has nitrites, which can decompose into carcinogens, but also are needed for anti-cavitation if used in diesel vehicles. Valvoline makes Zerex, go to their website for data sheets if you're interested. Good replacement for BMW coolant, or for any vehicle with aluminum engines, as long as you don't dilute with hard water."

Xerex G 48 is still listed for BeVo MB325.0, but is hard to find in N. America. NAPA lists G 48 on line. I don't know if it is common store stock.
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
The Sprinter Acronyms List
A newer post with a more complete list is found here:

DRBIII, DAD and some other acronyms which may come up

http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50067

I have acquired a couple of very interesting books related to Sprinters. (Thanks JD) I will try to pass on some of the things I learn here and in other postings.

Some of the page scans work with Word although many diagrams and pictures don't. For some reason page 1 wouldn't scan the acronym and definition in line even though it is just text.:bash: It scans with the acronym list first followed by the definitions in line below. If anyone has any suggestions on how to correct that problem please PM me. Please don't answer that here as I don't want to clutter this thread any more than necessary. (Of course comic relief and any additions are always welcome in Stoopid Things.) AP/vic

These first two are dedicated to Mr.Schmancy.:cheers:

DARF Doktor A Rsn Fix

DAD Doktor A Diagnostician

Doktor A Diagnostician.

A T1N only Sprinter K-line OBDII scan tool that was developed by Carsoft for fleet maintenance (UPS?). Doktor A acquired a number of them and offered them for 300 bucks if memory serves properly. They are no longer available except as they come up used.

I don't believe that iCarsoft has any direct connection with Carsoft, but I'm not certain.

vic
Here's the more official .jpg file scans:


01AcronymsAndAbbreviationsPic.jpg

02AcronymsAndAbbreviationsPicSm.jpg

001AcronymsAbbreviationsFuel.jpg

002CrossRefChartSm.jpg
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Sprinter Wheel Alignment also Requires Sensor Calibration

2011/07/30 edit: A recent post by Eric Experience indicates another reason you may want to choose your alignment shop carefully. That may mean sticking with Dodge, Freightliner or MB.
***
Rjbub.
There is a lot of misinformation about Sprinters in trade books like the ones wheel aligners use, the industry tries to make things simple for the the mechanic doing the alignment by saying a`Sprinter has "x" amount of toe in. This is wrong and dangerous the correct toe in is determined by several factors`and the factory details are in the form of a graph. Sorry for the long answer but you must get your alignment returned to the settings they were on before the tyre dealer messed with it. Eric.
***
The original thread is here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=145971#post145971

Thanks goes to Eric for the info.
***

From the book:

ESP DIAGNOSTICS

As an additional check of the ESP system, a road test procedure is available in the diagnostic scan tool. This test should be carried out when any ESP component is replaced in order to ensure proper function. Since the wheel speed sensors are required inputs to the ESP, this test should also be performed if the wheel speed sensors are replaced. First, the brakes are applied with the vehicle stationary and as a second step the vehicle is driven at approximately 10 kph (6 mph). The driver has to make left and right turns, with a minimum 90 degree steering turning angle. If the indicator lamp goes out, everything is in order. If the lamp remains illuminated, the diagnostic scan tool will display the fault codes that are causing the test to fail. The road test function is set in the ESP control module, and can only be deactivated once there are no more fault codes detected.
If the vehicle is going to the shop for a wheel alignment, the steering angle sensor will have to be re-calibrated with the diagnostic scan tool. The sensor must also be re-calibrated if, after removing and reinstalling the steering column, the alignment has changed by more than 5 degrees.


Indicator Lamp Status

When the ignition is switched on (ignition switch in position 2), the ESP and ABS indicator lamps light up during the bulb check. Once the engine has started, the ESP and ABS indicator lamps should go out. This indicates that ESP is operational.
The ESP or ABS indicator lamp may light up when the vehicle is being driven, and then go out again after a while. This is caused by battery undervoltage or overvoltage.
If the ESP indicator lamp lights up while the engine is running, there is a fault in the ESP system. BAS and ESP are no longer functional.
If the ABS and ESP indicator lamps light up while the engine is running, a fault has occurred affecting the ABS, BAS, ASR and ESP control functions. All of the systems are deactivated.

AP/vic

20101021 edit:
A thread created by Doktor A (Andy Bittenbinder) recently resurfaced. It has more detail as to the inportance of this procedure. Thanks goes to Doktor A.:thumbup:

ESP and wheel alignment
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=835

Another thread with info which you may find informative.

Driving Safety Systems ESP ABS ASR BAS EBD
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13202

137ESPdiagnostics.jpg
 
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themadaustrian

New member
The NCV3 Models have a Rear Fog Light Feature

Unfortunately it apparently is not a feature for the T1N's.

Thanks goes to dilleyoshempy.

Text here:
"Today while sitting in the van trying to kill time I noticed that the sprinter has a rear fog lamp! If you turn the lighting dial on the left side of the steering wheel to the low beam setting and pull it towards you one of the symbols on the dial will glow orange\red and you just activated the rear fog lamp!"

Thread is here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8392

AP/vic
high to everybody from this newbe!o5 ex dhl 2500
in europe in most countries a higher intensity red foglight in back of the vehicle is required-too many accidents in sudden fogpatches!
so is the highbeam flasher because in many cities it is illegal to use the horn.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Add OEM Factory Order Options NCV3

Many options available from the factory are not easy or affordable to add after the fact. Some are not a practical possibility even if money is not an object. This thread will lead to more detail. It is directed to NCV3 owners, but much applies to T1N models. Thanks goes mostly to JD Caples.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=79259#post79259

I apologize if this is a duplicate post in this thread. I don't think it is. AP/vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
A Couple More Acronyms Lists

************
A newer post with a more complete list is found here:

DRBIII, DAD and some other acronyms which may come up

http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50067
************

Another two lists.

Acronyms and Abbreviations
View attachment 001ACRONYMS AND ABBREVIATIONS.doc

Component Cross Reference
View attachment 002ComponentCrossReference.doc

Text of Acronyms and Abbreviations:

ACRONYMS AND ABBREVIATIONS
The following is a list of acronyms used:
ADR Constant RPM Option (Arbeitsdrehzahlregler)
CAN Controller Area Network
CARS Californian Air Resources Board
DLC Data Link Connector
DTC Diagnostic Trouble Code
EEPROM Electrical Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory
EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation
EPA Environmental Protection Agency
K-Line Serial Communications Line for Diagnostics
LCD Liquid Crystal Display
MAPPS Magnetic Passive Position Sensor
MgO Magnesium Oxide
MIL Malfunction Indicator Lamp
MOSFET Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor
NTC Negative Temperature Coefficient (Thermistor)
O2 Oxygen
OBDII On Board Diagnostics Second Generation
PTC Positive Temperature Coefficient
RAM Random Access Memory
SCI Serial Communications Interface (K-Line may also be used)
SmCo Samarium Cobalt
SRS Supplemental Restraint System
TERMINAL 15 Ignition Powered Circuit
TERMINAL 30 Battery Powered Circuit
TERMINAL 31 Ground Circuit
TERMINAL 58 Circuit That is Powered When Parking Lights are ON
TERMINAL D+ Circuit That is Powered When The Engine is Running
WIF Water-in-Fuel Sensor
ZRO2 Zirconium Dioxide

Sorry for any duplications. AP/vic
 
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