How much oil should I b using per 500 miles

frathouse

Member
Roger, yes the drivers side was especially oily. So much so that I removed my windshield washer reservoir in order to scrub/ degrease it and everything behind it. I think we're getting warmer, thanks. Brian
 

sailquik

Well-known member
Brian,
As suggested, you need to remove the plastic air boxes and stuff off the top of the engine, then you will see the oil cooler a little behind
the middle of the LH Valve cover behind/sort of underneath the OM-642 V6 Turbo Resonator.
Do some searches on NCV3 oil cooler....there are photos of where it is, descriptions of how to get too it, and a few photos of what the
figure 8 seal looks like.
I'd buy the seal at a MB dealer as it's been upgraded a few times and they will have all the bulletins as to what the latest and best
seal is.
Take you VIN # as they will need to use it to get you the correct part!
Hope this helps,
Roger
 

frathouse

Member
I appreciate all the useful input I've received so far, this is my first diesel. If it had been a gasser I would have immediately realized the consumption was excessive. I just thought at first when 'they' said oil burner, they meant it. But now it is making more sense and it must be a leaker. Thanks, Brian
 

icarus

Active member
Just one persons opinion, but I think "flushing" an engine with ATF or Kerosene or whqt ever is a really bad idea. IMHO all you do is dislodge sludge that then travels through the oil galleys plugging them up, scoring bearings etc. I know of several people who flushed engines only to have them fail quite soon afterward.

To me, if I want to clean it up, I will remove the oil own and clean it, remove the valve covers and clean the heads, but I would never do a crankcase flush.

Of course my advice is worth EXACLTY what you pay for it. I also concur with Rodger that Rotella is the wrong oil to use, DPF or no DPF.

Icarus
 

frathouse

Member
I agree, I want to isolate all leaks before trying to cleanse the motors interior. I also want to stop the leaking before pouring liquid gold down the pipe. But yes one step at a time I will likely remove valve covers and clean and replace gaskets before flushing. I thought flushing with tranny fluid was more for use with an old motor which had sat for years anyway, but I will do it before tearing down my motor and putting in rings. Thanks, Brian
 

chads

New member
I don't want to steer you wrong, I included the info on the atf fluid to show you what happened to me. The motor in question was an old van that had sat for a while prior to my getting it.


I second the fix the leaks before doing anything else idea.
I also recommend not using the atf at all.
Pulling the valve covers is a much more effective way to clean it out.
There is no MAGIC in a bottle when it comes to cars and trucks.

Sounds like you have found at least one of the leaks so I would start there.
Good luck,
Chad
 

ECU

Well-known member
Leakage out of the 'valve cover' would be diesel fuel out of the Injectors.
 

wmlog

New member
It certainly sounds like you are leaking oil somewhere -

I would power wash the engine and then look for oil leaks.

I've got 450,000 on my 2008 and recently needed to change the o-ring seals on my oil cooler.

I was consuming some oil but couldn't find any leaks, so I suspected that I was burning some oil, although I had no indication that I was. The oil cooler has double o-ring seals that harden and take a set after some time. The pressurized oil leaks out, and pools on the top of the engine. I suppose it then finds its' way off the top of the engine and into the passing air currents when the vehicle is being driven, but I had no oil accumulation on the underside of my vehicle. I discovered my leaks when I put my Sprinter up on ramps (front only) to change my oil. The pooled oil then ran to the back of the engine where there is a weep hole in the left rear corner. The oil ran down the back of the engine above and behind the starter.

Take it apart and replace the oil cooler o-ring seals and any other seals or gaskets you come across; i.e., the orange turbocharger gasket. New seals and gaskets are cheaper than break-downs. While you are there, check out the swirl valve actuator linkage looseness. When new, the linkage it tight. You will find wear, but that is another expensive repair to evaluate.
 
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6cyclone6

Member
At that rate of oil loss I would also suspect the oil cooler. It can leak pressurized oil. The answer I received from MB engineering is "The oil consumption of the OM642 is approx. 0.04l to 0.1l/1000km or 0.04 qt to 0.1 qt for 625 miles." or in non German half to full quart ~ 6k miles or so.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Normally I would have comments on this subject, but I own a T1N. Based upon some previous replies my guess is that my input apparently wouln't be relevant or appreciated.

Have fun.

vic
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
Reading the OP I'm amazed enough that the engine has 535,000 mikes on it and still runs well. Regarding the oil consumption, if you're only seeing a little smoke and only when cold then I'd expect some kind of external leak. An internal leak of that magnitude (quart per 150 miles) would generate a lot of exhaust smoke.
 

frathouse

Member
I got my oil cooler O rings in the mail and set out to replace them. I'm having a hard time identifying the oil cooler itself. One post says its on top of the LH cylinder bank. What is below the fuel filter? Can someone tell me what all I need to remove to replace the O rings? Thanks
 

6cyclone6

Member
It is a pretty involved repair. If I remember correctly you must remove the turbo to get it out. It is in the V between the cylinder heads.
 

Sprinter SS

Member
Dude, that oil cooler is in the belly of the beast. I saw when someone suggested it is on top of the LH head they were wrong, that is the egr cooler. If you pull the fuel filter out you will see it down in the valley between the heads. Dealer calls for 9.5hrs labor to do the job, it is involved and requires intake manifold removal as well.

That's funny about your DPF being "performance enhanced"..!
 

T.J.T

New member
My 2008 with 180,000 km uses no oil between changes.
 

frathouse

Member
yeah I was totally confused about it being 'on top', just from looking around I could tell it was on bottom of intake. I finally called the dealer after a 6 pack and they confirmed it. He said ' get a 30 pack and take off the turbo and the intake'. That 10 $ part is starting to look like a 500 $ repair. Oh well I got a lot off tonight, maybe finish on Friday. But I'm pretty sure its contributing to my oil usage as I can see a lot of oil down in the valley. Plus now it makes sense as to why when I replaced all the glowplugs the passenger side came out dry and the drivers side came out in a thick, black slick of oil.
 

Sprinter SS

Member
Better keep that egr, it's volume of exhaust gas is needed for mass airflow calculations. Just clean it up.

Take some pics, you are going deep. Way more than a 500 repair, at the dealer it would be a two grand repair.

Make sure you use new gaskets...
 

frathouse

Member
I ordered new gaskets for the turbo and intake today. Saving 2 grand, time to celebrate! Can't b any more challenging than a 911 rebuild.
 

dnshaf

Member
I ordered new gaskets for the turbo and intake today. Saving 2 grand, time to celebrate! Can't b any more challenging than a 911 rebuild.
Be sure to check the arm linkage from the Inlet Actuator on the Intakes, if there is play it will result in the butterfly's not opening and closing properly, thus it will throw a code. With that many miles I would replace the intake manifolds and a new oil cooler. The cooler runs $160 and the intakes about $1300 for the pair and the comes with a new actuator. Europarts SD has all the parts you need. Also the intakes come off together, be careful to hold them carefully when you remove them. The crossover will hold them fairly well but can come loose. I have a set of Intake Manifolds that has about 1/8" of play on the arms and that was enough to throw a code. Be sure to replace the square clips that hold the actuator arms too. It's just not worth doing all that work all over again. I've heard of a kit to rebuild them but I have yet to see one. Anyone else know where to find a kit? Hope this helps, DanIntake Manifolds.jpg
 

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