possible refrigerator woes

BobLLL

Member
Icarus, gte is looking for the fuse in a RM7401L. The info I posted is for the 8500 series. The pics that Mein showed are also from 8500 series.
 

gte

2008 RS
Bob,
You are correct. However, the gray plastic box Mein shows in the pictures is the same as the one I have. I may take off the control panel inside the RS to see if by chance there is a fuse there. It may be this model is an el cheapo, so no fuse.

I called Dometic and might as well have been talking to the moon. They have no technical line and only want to give me the number of the nearest service center which I already have.

I looked again at the manual I have and in the troubleshooting section it says that if the unit is not working on 230 volts (120 in my case) the on board fuse is defective, but there is no indication as to where the fuse is located and as I said the call to Dometic did not help. I may be doomed to take it to the dealer who wants to replace the 120 volt element. Ugh!!
 
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RT.SS

Member
At Gary, the fuse should be in the control board. Check the back of control panel, the control board should be there, easy to replace.
 

BobLLL

Member
If Icarus does not surface with some info specific to your model, Gary, maybe I can dig around for something, working back from what I have for my model. Tomorrow maybe.
 

icarus

New member
The only info I can come. Up with for that model is a UK 220volt model. If anyone has a link to a use PDF please post it.

I might also suggest posting the question(s) on the Rvmobile forum. The site seems to be down right now how ever. RVmobile.com, linked to forum.

My guess is that there is a fuse, take the front control off and look on the board. E Rv service guys (generally) are no better than those here IMHO.

Icarus
 

gte

2008 RS
I wondered if the fuse might be on the panel above the door. I tried to remove the panel above the door but not certain how it comes off and I do not want to break it. Any ideas?

Again, I have the manual for my unit and it includes a circuit diagram, but no fuses shown. I can copy and post it if that will help. It does not tell me how to remove the control panel.
 

icarus

New member
Look carefully on the ends of the top panel. I think there are a couple of small Phillips screws that hold the top control on...if it is like other Dometics.

Feel free to post the manual if you can.

Icarus
 

gte

2008 RS
Icarus,
I looked and I see no screws. The control panel is loose and I can move it around almost like there should be some tabs holding it and if I could find them I could pull it off. So far no luck.
Here are some pictures and the circuit diagram.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
 

Attachments

icarus

New member
Try pulling the knobs off straight forward.
You may have to slide the unit forward, or open the cabinet drawer, as there may be screws in top? Also look up from the open door.

With that wiring diagram, it showex what seems to be a control board,a ns I old bet a days pay that there is a fuse or two on that board. That fridge looks very much like the euro version of the new demotic with an analog t stat.

Icarus
 
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gte

2008 RS
Try pulling the knobs off straight forward.
You may have to slide the unit forward, or open the cabinet drawer, as there may be screws in top? Also look up from the open door.

With that wiring diagram, it showex what seems to be a control board,a ns I old bet a days pay that there is a fuse or two on that board. That fridge looks very much like the euro version of the new demotic with an analog t stat.

Icarus
Thanks Icarus. I did see the apparent control board in the diagram and the trouble shooting suggests a fuse is in the circuit someplace. I assume by slide the unit out you mean to take out the rour screws holding it in place and take off the propane connections so it can be pulled out a bit. I did take out the drawer and was not able to see any more. It is warmer in Mn today, 25-45, so I will investigate.
Later Saturday morning.
I have the four screws out and while I did not disconnect the propane I tried tipping the unit a bit but it will not budge. I have read that there is caulking around the unit, however, I do not see any and the space around the unit to see is very small. I think I will allow my dealer to look for the fuse first and if it is not blown then install the new heater element if it is blown.
Thanks again for all the suggestions....you would think a German company would make the fuse more accessible for DIY folks.
 
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RT.SS

Member
Open the fridge door and look towards the bottom of control panel fascia, there might be screws holding it, you may also have to pull the plastic dial knobs out to get to the control board.

This is how your board might look like.
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
Open the fridge door and look towards the bottom of control panel fascia, there might be screws holding it, you may also have to pull the plastic dial knobs out to get to the control board.

This is how your board might look like.
And the winner is.... :bow:
 

gte

2008 RS
What a great forum and great contributors. I pulled the control knobs and there they were deep in the plastic recesses of the knob tunnel; two screws holding the faceplate on as in the picture below. Once the faceplate came off there was the control module held with two easy to access screws. Once removed the module should be able to be removed, however, in an apparent austerity move in DGR, they used VERY short wires to run from the module back to a connection post. Thus, I could only move the module about an inch, not enough to see behind it. The little I did see suggests it is a plastic module which can be taken apart by removing three screws on the top of the module thus exposing the board, IF the module could be moved forward 2-3 inches OR if the refrigerator is out of the RV. The wires are on the connection post are held down with screws which can only be removed if the unit is out of the RV.
Darn, I was so close, but I now know to have the dealer look for the fuse while I am present before going on to replacing the heater element.
 

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Mein Sprinter

2010 Roadtrek SS Agile
Thanks Icarus. I did see the apparent control board in the diagram and the trouble shooting suggests a fuse is in the circuit someplace. I assume by slide the unit out you mean to take out the rour screws holding it in place and take off the propane connections so it can be pulled out a bit. I did take out the drawer and was not able to see any more. It is warmer in Mn today, 25-45, so I will investigate.
Later Saturday morning.
I have the four screws out and while I did not disconnect the propane I tried tipping the unit a bit but it will not budge. I have read that there is caulking around the unit, however, I do not see any and the space around the unit to see is very small. I think I will allow my dealer to look for the fuse first and if it is not blown then install the new heater element if it is blown.
Thanks again for all the suggestions....you would think a German company would make the fuse more accessible for DIY folks.
Ja, aber ACHTUNG:

Das Machine is nicht fur gerfingerpoken und mittengraben. Ist easy schnappen der springwork, blowenbfusen und Poppencorken mit Spritzensparken.

Ist nicht fur Gewerken by das Dummköpfen. Das rubbernecken. Sightseeren keepen Hands in das Pockets. Relaxen und watch das turning Veels. :cheers:

cheers...
 

icarus

New member
A replacement heater is not very expensive, and should be accessible without pulling the fridge as I said before. As I also said before, it is rare for them to fail. The heating element is held in with a small scre clamp, and then pulls straight out. You might Be able to clip the screw that holds the wire loom with a side cutters?

You shouldn't hav to pull the fridge completely out, just inch it forward enough. If you have to take the gas line off, it is no big deal. Like I said before, the service guys are alway the sharpest knifes in the drawer!

Icarus
 

gte

2008 RS
Icarus,
Thanks. I should send a picture of the view from the lower vent and the upper as I cannot make out where the heater element is located. The 120 volt plug is in the top vent and the wires disappear and seem to go back into the RV but I do not see where they come back and go to the element. I see a 2-3 inch round galvanized tube on the right side and a vent stack on top of that which is about an inch in diameter. I assume the boiler is in there somewhere but it is not easy to see where the element is located. I do see the ignition wires going into what I assume is the igniter near the bottom of the galvanized tube. I will send pictures!
I agree the element should not burn out as it has not bee used that much.
 

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