Insulating overhead?

slsbl77

New member
Has anyone removed the large (giant) overhead from the drivers area? I have a 144 2500 cargo, I would like to install 1/2 in closed cell insulation between the body work and the interior shell. Can 1 person remove/install it without breaking a fastener or mount or the shell itself?
Thanks in advance, Bob
 

AHAMAYfrank

Ordered03, Owned04, Now07
Bob,

I installed a complete factory headliner from a passenger van in my cargo van. I insulated the rear area before I installed the headliner. I loosed the panel you are referring to by pulling down on the rear of the panel near each of the mounting pins. They snap out and can be reused. I also removed the plastic covers over the seat belt shoulder strap on the door pillars. The rear section of the panel was then loose enough to slip the second one in. It was the same size as the sliding doors, much bigger than the front one, and I did it by myself.

Frank
 

Josh

New member
I'm about to do the same project on my 07 passenger and I fear damage.
Jon sent me an e-mail with step by step directions. Give him a try.

Josh
 

blakej59

New member
I pulled the rear of the roof panel loose by pulling it down. Broke a few of the plastic clips in the process but they were easy to replace. I brought one to a nearby Mercedes dealer and they sold me a handful.

Once the rear clips were out, I placed a block of wood to hold open the gap while I placed insulation. I didn't get every inch covered but got most of the roof covered. Definitely would have been easier to remove the panel but I didn't see how that was easily done.
 

GalenEvans

Onsite Cal Lab
I pulled out the headliner by myself ('08 144" high top) but used a helping hand to put it back. It was easier to ask someone to hold it while I put in the fasteners than to struggle with it or devise a deadman. It is light weight, but bulky and awkward to maneuver into position.

The only trick fastener for me was the coat hanger hooks on the B column. To remove the hooks, peel the plastic covering off by slipping a flat screwdriver blade under the bottom edge of the plastic and using an out and upwards motion. Then remove the exposed screw.

Be careful with the insulation thickness on the front corners. I was using 1" thick fiberglass matting with reflective facings and had to cut it away near the visor mounting holes.

Overall not a difficult job, but I pulled the liner in and out of position three times before I cut enough insulation away for it to fit back in. That got old.

I hung a rear view camera monitor from the headliner. Used a couple of 6" long pieces of 1/8" thick by 1 1/2" wide flat stock from Home Depot as a backing plate above the headliner. They act like extra large washers for the mounting bolts. I bent the aluminum to match the curve of the headliner. The headliner is pretty strong, especially in the curved areas near the front, but I was worried about small screws or bolt pulling through the fiber-board like material.

While you have the liner out is a good time to run any wiring you might use for future projects or accessories up the A column from the front to the back.

Best wishes,
Galen
 

ctmcdaniel

Cross Member
Coat hanger at top of B pillar
IMG_6680.JPG


Remove D ring at base of B pillar
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D ring assembly
IMG_6684.JPG


More of the interior ceiling panel the built in ears that are to the left
take some hi force finessing to remove from the oval holes in the body
IMG_6685.JPG

IMG_6686.JPG
 

ctmcdaniel

Cross Member
Going after a side wing tab, another set of hands would have
been a great help
IMG_6689.JPG


Prepped for foaming with Dow frothpak 180, don't forget to get a
respirator good for isocyanate's
IMG_6709.JPG


Rough foaming
IMG_6710.JPG


Trimmed foam, I did not notice that the celling panels are not flat on the back
and had to trim more then I wanted
IMG_6711.JPG


View of the interior of one of the B pillar covers showing the hooks at the bottom
IMG_6712.JPG
 

Josh

New member
Hi,
I just removed the cab's headliner today. Not as tough as I expected. Did it by myself. Use correct torx driver!
Remove the light by pulling down the right side. Tough to disconnect wiring harness for lights.
I'll be using Reflectix insulation, 2 layers of foil with "bubble wrap" in between. Used the same for the whole ceiling.
 

cedarsanctum

re: Member
Interesting timing on this thread, i've spent the last week removing headliners and insulating and adding a second skylight in the rear. Here's my :2cents:

I'm stuffing the hollow body panels with 1" foam rubber, like used for chair and bed padding. It's super easy to work with and fills cavities with a very dense material. Over the top (or under, on the roof) of this goes a layer of reflectix. That is attached to the back of the side panel with enough tape to keep it from moving. When the panels are put back on, the reflectix seals it nice and tight.
The stuffing in the ceiling was tricky to hold in place, ended up using 1/4" dowells stuck under the ribs. Would rather it fall down to the headliner and not stay compressed to the metal.
The sunroof will be nice addition in the summer. Removed one cross rib, and i'm thinking i'll put some 3/4" sq. tubing alongside to reinforce it.

Got this thing in January, feels good to FINALLY get going on building it.

Jef
 

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mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
Am surprised how much space there is in between the roof lining and the body panel.

Without wishing to put a dampener on all this fine work I also agree with the above sentiment ref. open cell insulation materials.

I once filled some door cavities with fibre type insulation. I didn't realise that it would hold moisture, and I'm sure it contributed to the door skins rusting through prematurely at the bottom edges.

Combine this with the Sprinter's rust prone roof seams and I would suggest the addition of some high quality treatment such as POR-15 or Linex in vulnerable areas. It may be that the rubber or bubble cell insulation materials are best from a corrosion prevention point of view.

Reticular (i.e. closed cell) foams would be ok. I use some under the skid plate of my race bike to prevent addition of weight through ontake of mud and water.

Love the roof vent - what make is that?

Simon
 
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Sprinter Jim

New member
I just began a project to panel & insulate my 07 144 V6 diesel. The door panels were easy using FRP & a saber saw. Looking at the overhead & sides I thought I better get some advice. Is there any templates for cutting peices? Does the overhead in the cargo area require any extra braces? I was hoping not to have to make templates.
Jim
 

Josh

New member
I just completed a full ceiling insulation in my 07 low roof passenger using Reflectix. When the sun beats down on the roof you can really feel a difference after insulating!

The headliner was quite easy to remove, I broke only 10 clips but I was prepared for that with replacements. The insulating work was easy & fast. I used 3M double sided heavy duty tape (red color) to hold the insulation to the metal ceiling, the tape proved to be very strong & great for this job.

Reinstalling the headliner was easy & I did it all with no help but I did run into some fitting problems when reinstalling the headliner in the cab area. Looks like I used the Reflectix extensively in the cab area (since that's where I spend lots of time behind the wheel) and there is limited space between the cab's headliner & the metal ceiling, the headliner did not fit properly & being about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off meant major fitting problems. Took me hours to get the fit problems solved & I'm never removing the cab's headliner again!!
 

cedarsanctum

re: Member
Thanks all for the advice with the foam. I had considered the moisture problem and thought it not severe enough to worry about. After playing with the headliner (must be cut to go around the new sunroof) i realized just how much room there is up there. Change of plan is to put reflectix against the metal, loosely, and layers of foam over that, on top of the headliner.
Here's a photo of the new brace for the sunroof. The brace is 3/4" square steel, screwed to the existing cross braces. The 1/4" shims are holding the braces against the roof and leaving room for the headliner to slip in. Cutting the headliner isn't as tough as it sounds, but i ran out of time today to finish.
The sunroof installation was performed by Rose City Sunroof in Portland, and was made by CR Laurence.
 

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cedarsanctum

re: Member
OK, I think i got it.
First a layer of Reflectix against the outside of the roof and sides (keeping it loose as possible from contact), then a layer of foam, tucked into the reflectix so it has no contact with the metal. Then another layer of reflectix on top of that, and more foam stuffed if with the headliner, filling as much space as possible without it bulging the headliner. Had to play with that a lot and tended to take out any that put pressure on the whole thing.
And the newly trimmed headliner fits well around the new sunroof.
Jef
 

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