scan tool ?????????

[pmflynn211]

does anybody know what scantool I need for my early 03/sprinter (frieghtliner).my van will not start without starter fluid.I took it to the dealer he said it needed injectors...at a cost of $435 each....didnt work then the dealer said change the cam sensor another $395...didnt work thrn the crank position sensor...no luck...now they say we should change the injector pump at a cost of $1800...no way not a chance my thoght are if it were the injector pump it wouldnt run as good as it does, even with starting with starter fluid...this is why I need to get a scan tool...I,m tired of spraying starter fluid each start up...thanks for any help pete----- pmflynn211@yahoo.com

 

[220629]

does anybody know what scantool I need for my early 03/sprinter (frieghtliner).my van will not start without starter fluid.I took it to the dealer he said it needed injectors...at a cost of $435 each....didnt work then the dealer said change the cam sensor another $395...didnt work thrn the crank position sensor...no luck...now they say we should change the injector pump at a cost of $1800...no way not a chance my thoght are if it were the injector pump it wouldnt run as good as it does, even with starting with starter fluid...this is why I need to get a scan tool...I,m tired of spraying starter fluid each start up...thanks for any help pete----- pmflynn211@yahoo.com

Did they ever check the fuel rail pressure while cranking???

Given your description, the runs after starting fluid, and a history of the Sprinter fuel rail solenoid seal leakage causing no start issues the next shotgun volley should be the fuel rail solenoid seals. The correct troubleshooting method would be to check the fuel rail pressure during cranking. It needs to be 2900+ psi for reliable starting.

The high pressure pumps are generally very reliable.

Good luck. vic

P.S. - Find another shop.

 

[surlyoldbill]

I wish dealership shops were liable for their uneeded repairs...uh, parts replacements. So many people posting here have been raped by the dealership shops and their "certified" Sprinter technicians.

YES, what Vic said! Low rail pressure on an OM612 (02-03) will result in non-start, I have experienced this. Too bad they didn't try to diagnose the problem by checking rail pressure. Too bad the most expensive parts were replaced first, rather than the $2 worth of o-rings in the fuel rail solenoid (back of rail next to the engine wall). Too bad they didn't test the cam and crank sensors with an ohm meter to see if they were good before installing brand new ones. Injectors can be tested, as well.

I just replaced my injector (high pressure) fuel pump. From what I've read, the OM612 ones do not fail without showing it by leaking externally. Mine was dripping fuel on the serpentine belt on cold startups, but started and ran just fine, drips going away as the engine warmed up. I would say that your problem is NOT the injector pump (used less than $200, rebuilt $750, new OEM $1800).

Just for fun, after you replace the o-rings in the fuel rail solenoid and the van starts up easy every time, send a note to the dealership telling them about the $2 repair (if you do the 1/2 hour labor yourself of removing two bolts, replacing o-rings, installing solenoid with above two bolts) asking for your old parts back and a refund for the money they stole from you replacing parts that were perfectly good. They may even apologize and send you a coupon for 10% off a McDonalds meal. If these shops are so certified, why can't they figure out this common problem that all of us on the forum have known about for years?

 

[lindenengineering]

does anybody know what scantool I need for my early 03/sprinter (frieghtliner).my van will not start without starter fluid.I took it to the dealer he said it needed injectors...at a cost of $435 each....didnt work then the dealer said change the cam sensor another $395...didnt work thrn the crank position sensor...no luck...now they say we should change the injector pump at a cost of $1800...no way not a chance my thoght are if it were the injector pump it wouldnt run as good as it does, even with starting with starter fluid...this is why I need to get a scan tool...I,m tired of spraying starter fluid each start up...thanks for any help pete----- pmflynn211@yahoo.com

OMG
Dealer doing a shot gun approach words fail me! --like I often say dealers are only as good as the blokes that work in it!

These engines are a no brainer to work on and with "only a lowly" (sounding like Elvis P now) Snap on Solus Pro in the shop and a good mech /tool operator who knows the rig and his scanner with key #17 its well a no brainer to fixing it.
I can get Mexicans semi skilled to to do this job with minimal training !

Without seeing/scanning it, the "usuals" are poor fuel feed Low pressure side---or low HP rail pressure as already stated which if often the PRV at the back of the rail needing a $12 seal kit.

Thinking about it if I could see one of these problems every hour I reckon I could be quite wealthy with a $100 scan fee and two "meh he kanos" for 45 hours a week I could eventually retire in say Costa Rica--Hmm Now you are talking--lottsa Sprinters down there too!

But seriously where are you and do you have any one in your area with a Snappy?
Dennis

 

[Oilburner]

Cam sensor $395.. that one must be made out of gold.. reg price 10 X less..5 min to change..even blindfolded can do it. Stay away from this place.

 

[sailquik]

pmflynn211;
What kind of dealer was this?
No need to mention exactly which dealer, but it would be good to know if it was:
A Freightliner dealer?
A Dodge/MOPAR dealer?
A Mercedes Benz Authorized Sprinter dealer?
A Mercedes Benz Authorized Sprinter "COMMERCIAL" dealer?
An RV dealer?
An independent dealer or repair shop?
I agree you should look somewhere else for service on your early '03 Freightliner Sprinter.
Also, be very careful with using the ether based starter fluid.
If your Sprinter is working correctly there is absolutely no need for starter fluid.
If you spray the ether into your intake system and it hits one of the glow plugs you could easily have a flash fire blowing back out the
intake.
"The regulating coil keeps the heating element within the 1000° – 1100°C (1832°-2012° F) optimal temperature range, preventing
engine damage due to over voltage/overheating."
From the Bosch Glow Plug website:
http://www.boschautoparts.com/BAP_Technical_Resources/Diesel Parts/201232_GlowPlugTechGd08.pdf
Hope this helps,
Roger