surlyoldbill
Well-known member
My injector pump started leaking on the serpentine belt at first start-up in 30 degree weather. This is a common issue with older vans, the seals getting old less pliable due to temperature.
Dec/15/2013
I purchased my pump used on ebay for $165 with a one year guarantee. New pumps are $1500-1800, rebuilt $700-1000, and the re-seal kit (usually unavailable) is $70.
This job requires Torx bits from T20 to T60, E-Torx sockets or maybe you can get away with 12-point sockets in the right size. You will need a reversing clamp or block of wood to hold radiator away from engine. You will want a can or two of carburetor cleaner available, and rags for cleaning. Below method does not require draining the radiator or fuel lines.
Removal
1. remove the front grill
2. take off headlights
3. remove turbo heat shield
4. remove crossbar (remove hood latch wire through slots in mechanism after crossbar is off)
5. push top of radiator assembly away from engine (I used a reversing clamp), taking care to
not damage anything or loosen hose attachments.
6. remove fan (T60? bit, some sort of bar to prevent engine turning, I used a large pin driver)
7. remove steel fuel line using two wrenches, do not bend line.
8. remove clamp holding feed and return plastic fuel lines (E socket), pull/twist lines out from
pump, protect lines from dirt, I use examination gloves. Unhook electrical connection.
9. remove three bolts (E socket) and pull/twist injector pump from engine. You may have to
pry one side then the other until it starts moving. Be careful of the interface parts that the
pump inserts into on the engine.
Halftime
Clean the area behind and below the pump, you may never have another chance!
Prep the replacement pump. My new used one was not cleaned when I got it, and the electrical connector was damaged either by the vendor or in shipping, I replaced it with the one from my old pump. I placed a new o-ring on the shaft that inserts into the engine, metric 326 I think; I have a metric o-ring multi-kit from harbor freight that had an exact match. Pictures show some possible oil leakage from the engine due to the o-ring on my old pump. Replacement pump was cleaned with carb cleaner and a brush and lint-free cloth. Be VERY careful to protect the fuel line connections and assure that they are clean as well, science lab clean.
Installation
Reverse order of installation
1. match drive wheel angle to slot in engine using old pump as example
2. smear some fresh oil on the o-ring and insert (push/wiggle) pump into engine
3. inspect to make sure it is fully inserted and o-ring is still where it belongs
4. replace three bolts to hold it on; bottom one is difficult, I used a mirror to check position.
The plastic fuel lines and the serpentine belt are slightly in the way and I used a screwdriver
to lever them down a bit while I started the bolt.
5. attach steel fuel line, electrical connection, and feed and return lines. Take care to insert
plastic lines correctly and not at an angle so the square side o-rings stay in place. The
plastic line heads have indents and stops on them that the metal hold down bracket mates
with. I re-used the existing square side o-rings and white rubber washers with no problems.
6. remove blocking/clamp behind radiator assembly, inspect hoses and connections for
loosening.
7. re install hood latch wire and replace crossmember
8. install headlights
9. install grill
Crank to start; this lets air in to the system, and I had to crank for about 20-30 seconds to purge/prime and start the engine. Bubbles in the fuel line went away during a 5 mile drive.
*the manual says to disconnect the battery, I didn't.
Dec/15/2013
I purchased my pump used on ebay for $165 with a one year guarantee. New pumps are $1500-1800, rebuilt $700-1000, and the re-seal kit (usually unavailable) is $70.
This job requires Torx bits from T20 to T60, E-Torx sockets or maybe you can get away with 12-point sockets in the right size. You will need a reversing clamp or block of wood to hold radiator away from engine. You will want a can or two of carburetor cleaner available, and rags for cleaning. Below method does not require draining the radiator or fuel lines.
Removal
1. remove the front grill
2. take off headlights
3. remove turbo heat shield
4. remove crossbar (remove hood latch wire through slots in mechanism after crossbar is off)
5. push top of radiator assembly away from engine (I used a reversing clamp), taking care to
not damage anything or loosen hose attachments.
6. remove fan (T60? bit, some sort of bar to prevent engine turning, I used a large pin driver)
7. remove steel fuel line using two wrenches, do not bend line.
8. remove clamp holding feed and return plastic fuel lines (E socket), pull/twist lines out from
pump, protect lines from dirt, I use examination gloves. Unhook electrical connection.
9. remove three bolts (E socket) and pull/twist injector pump from engine. You may have to
pry one side then the other until it starts moving. Be careful of the interface parts that the
pump inserts into on the engine.
Halftime
Clean the area behind and below the pump, you may never have another chance!
Prep the replacement pump. My new used one was not cleaned when I got it, and the electrical connector was damaged either by the vendor or in shipping, I replaced it with the one from my old pump. I placed a new o-ring on the shaft that inserts into the engine, metric 326 I think; I have a metric o-ring multi-kit from harbor freight that had an exact match. Pictures show some possible oil leakage from the engine due to the o-ring on my old pump. Replacement pump was cleaned with carb cleaner and a brush and lint-free cloth. Be VERY careful to protect the fuel line connections and assure that they are clean as well, science lab clean.
Installation
Reverse order of installation
1. match drive wheel angle to slot in engine using old pump as example
2. smear some fresh oil on the o-ring and insert (push/wiggle) pump into engine
3. inspect to make sure it is fully inserted and o-ring is still where it belongs
4. replace three bolts to hold it on; bottom one is difficult, I used a mirror to check position.
The plastic fuel lines and the serpentine belt are slightly in the way and I used a screwdriver
to lever them down a bit while I started the bolt.
5. attach steel fuel line, electrical connection, and feed and return lines. Take care to insert
plastic lines correctly and not at an angle so the square side o-rings stay in place. The
plastic line heads have indents and stops on them that the metal hold down bracket mates
with. I re-used the existing square side o-rings and white rubber washers with no problems.
6. remove blocking/clamp behind radiator assembly, inspect hoses and connections for
loosening.
7. re install hood latch wire and replace crossmember
8. install headlights
9. install grill
Crank to start; this lets air in to the system, and I had to crank for about 20-30 seconds to purge/prime and start the engine. Bubbles in the fuel line went away during a 5 mile drive.
*the manual says to disconnect the battery, I didn't.
Last edited by a moderator:
vic
