rotor removal

shortshort

Well-known member
My left rear seems to be frozen. Beat on it with a rubber mallet with no effect. Not ready to hit it with the sledge just yet as replacement is really not necessary. Any tips? I read somewhere here about a lead hammer but there was another trick I can't remember or find.
 

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
You'd have to look far back for the ball paean hammer and chisel strike, one whack is enough to loosen it if not rusted?????
However if rusted as well then use oxy gas to break the rust away, then whack it with a hammer it never fails.
LOOKED THE PHOTO HAS DISSIPATED INTO HISTORY WITH THOR AND HIS HAMMER.?
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Cheers Richard
 

sailquik

Active member
shortshort,
You of course removed the retaining bolt (big torx in Richard's photo)?
Have you tried a "dead blow" hammer.
Dead Blow hammers exert a lot more force and do no damage.
If you are not going to replace the rotor, why is it necessary to take it off?
Are you able to measure the amount of wear?
Sprinter's normally need a rotor replacement any time the pads need to be
replaced because the good OEM pads are so hard that the rotor wears at the same
rate as the brake pads.
If there is a deep sharp edge on the outer edge of the rotor, that indicates the amount
that the rotor has worn. If the pads are gone, then the rotor most likely needs to be
replaced.
Hope this helps,
Roger
 

NelsonSprinter

Former Nelson BC Sprinter
Is there a parking brake adjustment screw behind the retaining bolt? loosening the parking brake adjustment sometimes helps
 

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
Front and rear for a final adjustment can be done from the back and from the front with wheels on,'OFF THE GROUND OF COURSE'.. The parking brake rear is another matter
Cheers Richard
PS I have the 12mil torx screw for Single piston brakes the bloody big one, not the BOSCH dual which has that pesky little screw 9 mil I think.
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shortshort

Well-known member
shortshort,
You of course removed the retaining bolt (big torx in Richard's photo)?
Have you tried a "dead blow" hammer.
Dead Blow hammers exert a lot more force and do no damage.
If you are not going to replace the rotor, why is it necessary to take it off?
Are you able to measure the amount of wear?
Sprinter's normally need a rotor replacement any time the pads need to be
replaced because the good OEM pads are so hard that the rotor wears at the same
rate as the brake pads.
If there is a deep sharp edge on the outer edge of the rotor, that indicates the amount
that the rotor has worn. If the pads are gone, then the rotor most likely needs to be
replaced.
Hope this helps,
Roger
I bought new rotors but the wear lip is not too bad. I can live with the rotors. The parking brake was uber loose and the set screw out. Last time they just came right off. I'll try a dead blow hammer or similar if I get any posterior twitching over it, or if the other side comes off easily...
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
If you're in no hurry it may help to smear grease on the outside of the hub boss joint, re-assemble and let that work in for time. Over a bit of time the grease will creep in kinda like penetrating oil.

Here in the northeast USA rusting of parts is a big concern. Before assembly of brake drums or rotors I always apply a very thin coat of regular grade NeverSieze to any matching faces. At first I worried that it might migrate out onto the braking surfaces. After applying a thin coat for literally decades now that has never been an issue so I no longer worry. The NeverSieze always stays where it was applied. It really helps for future disassembly.

:2cents: vic
 

shortshort

Well-known member
If you're in no hurry it may help to smear grease on the outside of the hub boss joint, re-assemble and let that work in for time. Over a bit of time the grease will creep in kinda like penetrating oil.

Here in the northeast USA rusting of parts is a big concern. Before assembly of brake drums or rotors I always apply a very thin coat of regular grade NeverSieze to any matching faces. At first I worried that it might migrate out onto the braking surfaces. After applying a thin coat for literally decades now that has never been an issue so I no longer worry. The NeverSieze always stays where it was applied. It really helps for future disassembly.

:2cents: vic
Big hurry. Let the warning light go for weeks. Had to get pads in there. I will put some antiseize in there this time.
 

shortshort

Well-known member
Front and rear for a final adjustment can be done from the back and from the front with wheels on,'OFF THE GROUND OF COURSE'.. The parking brake rear is another matter
Cheers Richard
PS I have the 12mil torx screw for Single piston brakes the bloody big one, not the BOSCH dual which has that pesky little screw 9 mil I think.
I cranked the adjuster till it stopped and then backed off three clicks. Prolly should have done the cable adjust first?

Edit: Parking brake seems pretty happy with the adjustment, I'll leave it be. Rotor came off with a few loving taps from a ten lb sledge. The front rotors, having witnessed this act of violence, literally fell off when the set screw was removed. The fronts are another crazy topic altogether. Film at eleven...
 
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Paul_E_D

New member
HELP! I have my rear rotor loose, caliper off, etc, but the rotor is hanging up on the parking brake pads. ANy tricks???
 

cahaak

New member
Did you use a screw driver through one of the holes and loosen the parking brake as much as you could? If not, do this. Even with it loosened up all of the way, you will need to work your way around the whole rotor to loosen it from the parking brake. It takes patience and about 5 minutes work. Even adjusted all the way in, with rust and so on you get hang up on the parking brake. Don't be afraid to use some force on the hammer as you work your way around. It is kind of a finesse / power thing and getting the balance right to get it off. Just make sure you have the parking brake adjust all the way in before you go to town. You can tell this by manually trying to "turn" the rotor on the brake surfaces (around). Once you are going the right way, adjust the star wheel as far as you can in the one direction.

Chris
 

Paul_E_D

New member
Did you use a screw driver through one of the holes and loosen the parking brake as much as you could? If not, do this. Even with it loosened up all of the way, you will need to work your way around the whole rotor to loosen it from the parking brake. It takes patience and about 5 minutes work. Even adjusted all the way in, with rust and so on you get hang up on the parking brake. Don't be afraid to use some force on the hammer as you work your way around. It is kind of a finesse / power thing and getting the balance right to get it off. Just make sure you have the parking brake adjust all the way in before you go to town. You can tell this by manually trying to "turn" the rotor on the brake surfaces (around). Once you are going the right way, adjust the star wheel as far as you can in the one direction.

Chris
Thanks. I found the adjuster and it went easy from there.
 

Paul_E_D

New member
OK, on to the fronts today. I can visually see that they are worn less than the rears were. I really might not NEED to replace, but they are really scored up. I mean, it looks like little pebbles have been getting stuck between the pads and rotors. What caused this? cheap parts perhaps?
 

Paul_E_D

New member
Got the fronts done today. Really easy. No retaining bolts in them at all. Made re installation a little fiddly, but all done in 2 hours.
 

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