Heater control bulb replacement ?

BobFur

New member
Only the heat temperature control dial on my '06 T1N is illuminated, the air flow selector and heater booster/AC switch are dark. I presume those two switches should be illuminated also.
Are the bulbs in those switches that mere mortals can replace ?
I am feeling almost brave enough to get in there and try it.
Would be a bummer to find there are no serviceable light bulbs in the switches.
Anyone been there ?
thank you !
Bob
 

JAM

New member
Interested too. Same problem. I did tap on the side that wasn't working and got em to come on for about a week.
 

Eric Experience

Well-known member
Bob
Yes I have replaced the globes with LEDs. If you remove the globe holder and remove the globe from it then using some fine wire connected to the contacts of the globe holder then solder the led with a suitable resistor to the wires. be mindful that led is polarity sensitive. Eric
 

FFR5445

New member
I recently did this and took a few pictures. You will need to disconnect the control cables and remove the heater control unit. This is also a good time to lubricate the cables so the knobs are easier to turn. Once you have the heater control unit out you need to remove the front panel by releasing the tabs. From there you can see the bulbs. They are tricky to get at but I was able to unscrew it using a small needle nose pliers. They have a green base but look just like the dash bulbs in my BMW that have a black base. I had a few of the black base bulbs laying around so I used them and they are working great.

I used BMW part number 62-13-1-383-311. These are a little cheaper but technically not correct.

I believe the Mercedes part number for the green base bulbs is 000000 000977

Do an internet search for the part number and you will find several options to buy online.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

bc339

New member
One of the bulbs can be accessed fairly easily and removed with a small screwdriver through a square window directly behind the lamp. The other one will come loose with a turn, but you may need to turn the ATC panel upside down to let gravity help it out.

If you are feeling adventurous, you can disassemble down to the board to make it real easy. I wouldn't recommend going this far just for bulbs, though. I went this far tracing a bad A/C control problem.

While you have it apart, clean out the temperature sensor fan - it really draws in a lot of dust.

Bruce
 

Attachments

BobFur

New member
Thanks to all for advise and words of encouragement !
Just installed bulbs and it wasn't too challenging
Correct bulb p/n is 000000-002453 Qty 2
These are 12V 2W with green plastic base
one bulb for temp control and second bulb for other two controls
Dealer parts list showed a third bulb with different part number
no plastic base just bare bulb 1.5 W
I could not find anything like that on my heater control unit so I left it behind and do not have that p/n
 

hulagun

Haulin' A** since 1974
I just replaced mine. I thought it was fairly challenging. It took me about 2 hours.

But I didn't unhook any cables. I was afraid I'd muck them up somehow. Take care not to twist the assembly around too much less you break a cable arm.

In hindsight, it's probably a lot better to carefully remove the cables and work somewhere clean and with plenty of light. If I had dropped a bulb it might have been lost forever in the depths of my van.

I did unplug the brown multi-plug to give some extra room to move the control panel around. I also undid the 8 (?) clips and removed the black face plate. This gives easier access to the front side of the circuit board that the bulbs lock into.

The knob assemblies are very fragile also, do not attempt to remove them. The posts that hold them to the circuit board break off very easily. I'd leave them alone.

I was able to remove the old bulbs by carefully manipulating them from the back using some small bent needle nose pliers, and from the front with a small sharp jewelers screwdriver. Getting the new bulbs back in was the hardest part... they are a tight fit. It takes a lot of care and patience. Once they are pushed through the circuit board, I found the only way to rotate them and lock them in place was carefully poking them on the front side. I alternated pushing on the metal tabs to slowly rotate them into place.

I also lubed the cable ends and exposed cable wire, using TriFlo. This made vent control knob rotation quite easy.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
...

While you have it apart, clean out the temperature sensor fan - it really draws in a lot of dust.

Bruce
The one in the post above shows some dust on the cabin temperature thermistor fan.


ATCfan.jpg

vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
My 2006 ATC module back lights are out. My 2004 with DRL are fine (12 years, 309,000 miles). The 2006 doesn't have DRL so the ATC back lights are on more often (10 years, 157,000 miles).

I need to get into the console switches so that seems to be the time to address this minor issue.

I'm a bit confused. In the posts people talk about turning the lamps. Some of the parts lists I've seen show a wedge base lamp. Is "turning the lamp" rotating the entire socket assembly? Has anyone replaced just the lamps? Are they wedge base as shown for the one Dodge part, and the BMW black base?

Raw text info I've found so far.

T5 12v 2w lamp

MB
000000-002453 (green base)

http://starparts.chrysler.com/home/ChryMB.pdf
05133468AA N 000000 002453 BULB

Dodge
05133468AA (or 5133468AA)
Shows a wedge base, but not a T-5 style lamp in the picture. (Once at the site click "What This Fits" = Sprinters listed.)
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/CHRYSLER/BULB/4516559/05133468AA.html
Capture.JPG

BMW
62-13-1-383-311
1.2-watt bulb (black base)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/62131383311.htm?pn=62-13-1-383-311-M97

or

Bulb, 12V - 1.2W with base, (Black)
Part #: 62-11-1-368-299-M97
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/62111368299.htm?pn=62-11-1-368-299-M97


Lamp only??
63-21-7-167-000-M97
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/63217167000.htm?pn=63-21-7-167-000-M97

aka

62-13-1-383-311-INT (Osram)??
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/62131383311.htm?pn=62-13-1-383-311-INT

Another Sprinter-source thread where bc339 shows pictures of dash disassembly. :thumbup:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=276285#post276285

:cheers: vic

Added.
Perfect!!!

THANK YOU! :thumbup::thumbup:

I'll be able to re-use the base by replacing the lamp one way or the other.

Maybe with an LED, but polarity is probably not indexed on the lamp twist base.

12volt2WattATCnotes.jpg

:cheers: vic
Be careful with the discrete components mounted on/in the ATC module.

Electronic assistance with climate control

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52862



Console Switch Plate Removal

Thanks goes to Mad max. :thumbup:



To remove the plastic switch panel from the center console do the following
1) Remove the trim ring around the shifter. Pry it up gently with a small flat screwdriver or similar. It has quite a bit of retention force but it will come up. Added: Just the trim ring needs to be removed. My letter plate popped partially loose. Should that happen just snap the plate back into place.
2) Remove the small coin tray in the bottom left of the switch array. You can just use a screw driver again. This is where the 7day timer goes if you have that option. Not sure how that removes. [Same way. Use a knife edge to lever it up on each side. - vic]
3) Once the coin tray/7-day timer is removed you should see a torx head screw. I think it is T-20. Remove it.
4) Gently pry the back edge (edge closest to the back of the van) with a flat screwdriver or similar. The whole back edge is held in with just clips that will release when you pull hard enough.
5) Once the clips are free on the back edge gently lift the whole back edge and the front edge should start to pop out too. You should see the connection for the dash top and ashtray lighter sockets. Dash top one has 2 prongs and is white, the ashtray outlet has 3 prongs (1 for the illumination) and I think is black. Should be able to diagnose issue more easily once you can verify condition of plug and connections.

Note: I tried removing the dashtop outlet from that plastic panel but it's a pretty tricky thing to remove without causing damage - you'd be better off leaving it in and removing the whole panel. You should be able to reach down to the ash tray outlet once you get the plastic panel off.

HTH
White Whale gives some nice trim removal information. :thumbup:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62959
 
Last edited:

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Pics

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Perfect!!!

THANK YOU! :thumbup::thumbup:

I'll be able to re-use the base by replacing the lamp one way or the other. NOPE! Close clearance and OEM design bested me.
*** 20170814 Update:
Skip down to 3 each lamps.
...

These do fit perfectly!!!
Mercedes Dashboard Instruments Bulb Green + Clear
12 volt 1.3 watt (3 each/package)
Mercedes part# 000000 000977

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KL4VNCO

Note: OEM are 2 watt, these are 1.3 watt so the ATC backlight is a bit dimmer. I actually prefer dim dash illumination.

I checked Europarts SD. Nothing listed that I found.

vic


Maybe with an LED, but polarity is probably not indexed on the lamp twist base.

12volt2WattATCnotes.jpg

:cheers: vic
 
Last edited:
I used two leds. But soldered them to the pads. I couldn't make it happen using the old base with the leds I had. But the positive is closest to the bottom. And also you have to use at least one of the terminals your pointing to to make the positive connection from the right to the left. The circuit comes in from the right bulb bottom side of the board and uses the connector shown to transfer 12v + to the top side which then leads to the left side bulb.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
While messing with tying in to my 2006 ashtray/cigarette lighter circuit I noticed that the cigarette lighter lamp for the light ring looks similar to the lamp assemblies in the ATC unit. I'm thinking that I can steal one of those useless lamps from each of my Sprinters and install them in my 2006 ATC unit. Does anyone know if those lamps are the same?

Here is a picture that pretty clearly shows the light tube design used to distribute the ATC backlighting.
Photo credit goes to NorthSands.

ATClamp.jpg

vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
I can now answer my own question.

... Does anyone know if those [cigarette lighter] lamps are the same?
...
vic
The cigarette lighter back lamps are completely different. No love there.

I did learn some things by removing my 2006 ATC panel.

* It is not necessary to split the ATC unit apart to replace the lamps. The ATC module does need to be freed though. That requires removing 2 ea. electrical connectors, and 2 ea. cables.

* The lamps can be twisted to the removal position by using a small screwdriver. The lamp assemblies can then be popped loose and shaken out using mean old Mr. Gravity. For the one lamp I did disconnect the heavy brown wire to move that wire out of the way. The small screwdriver worked for re-install... with some patience. Added: A bit of review showed that bc339 Bruce already covered the screwdriver use suggestion.

* It still may be worthwhile to take the front 1/2 cover off. It is just a bunch of small plastic clips to release. That allows proper cleaning of the little thermistor fan. Mine was pretty much plugged with lint/dust (2006 approx. 147,000 miles in medical transport service). It definitely needed cleaning. It may have not even been spinning before cleaning.

* While apart use your lubricant of choice to lube the air flow selection knob mechanicals and also the cables. (On mine the white sheathed cable was in the front position - closest to you. White = white lever. Black = black lever.)

* The back light lamp on the Espar Programmable Timer is the same lamp as the ATC module lamps (12 volt 2 watt). The Espar lamp is very easily accessed and makes a good method to test the fit of any lamp replacement part before taking everything apart to access the ATC unit. The Espar timer is labeled Hella if that helps any.

I wasn't successful in adapting any of my lamps to the OEM holders. The lamps are quite tiny. I did use some leads to cobble a couple of on hand lamps into position. The sensible answer is to use OEM type lamps.

I still have not 100% identified the exact aftermarket replacements by generic number.
I did find some. See post #17 below.

Possible - Using Hella from Espar Programmable Time.
http://cat.hella.com/web/public/hella/en_GB/700000/700201/Lights-%2BSignal%2BSystem/$catalogue/2/$product/8GS%2B006%2B677-121_2776/index.xhtml;jsessionid=D5D44F1BCA59A0B070BA544518E50E05

12 volt 2 watt
https://www.amazon.com/Bulb-12V-Instrument-Cluster-Socket/dp/B009PQ82I2


12 volt 1.5 watt
https://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Bulb-instruments-Beige-Socket/dp/B00D2KKPW8/
My reply to a PM asking why these are crossed off the list.
"My sometimes faulty memory recalls that the base design is a bit different and sticks out too much. I believe that those lamps will work in the one ATC lamp holder, but not in the more restricted one. It may even interfere with the cable lever action."

Update.
Those 1.5 watt lamps were purchased and are reported to fit.
Another source. Thanks goes to Rickpcmp3.

Osram 62111391260 Instrument Panel Light Bulb
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Osram-6211...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


vic
 
Last edited:

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
*** 20170814 Update:
Skip down to 3 each lamps.

I found relatively inexpensive lamps on Amazon. $6.02/2 ea.

Bulb (12V - 2W) - Instrument Cluster with Green Socket Base
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PQ82I2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The lamps I received aren't exact replacements, but they do fit. It will fit the one that isn't under the cable control knob. The green base sticks up too high and keeps the knob from rotating to the dash vent position. :cry: The good news is that the lamp does fit the Espar Aux control unit.
***

The green plastic base protrudes out further than the OEM lamp assemblies do. The Amazon lamps do not have the screwdriver slot option. That sounds like no big deal, but it did make it more difficult to install the lamps. I used a pair of laboratory tweezers/forceps. It was difficult to set the lamps into place and twist to set into position. A screwdriver slot would make it much easier. Thin needle nose pliers would work. Typical needle nose pliers probably would not work well.


There was no need to disassemble the ATC halves to install these *almost correct* lamp units or the lamps I list below.


12 volt 1.5 watt
https://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Bulb-instruments-Beige-Socket/dp/B00D2KKPW8/
My reply to a PM asking why these are crossed off the list.
"My sometimes faulty memory recalls that the base design is a bit different and sticks out too much. I believe that those lamps will work in the one ATC lamp holder, but not in the more restricted one. It may even interfere with the cable lever action."

Update.
Those lamps were purchased and are reported to fit.
Another source. Thanks goes to Rickpcmp3.

Osram 62111391260 Instrument Panel Light Bulb
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Osram-6211...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649



These do fit perfectly!!!
Mercedes Dashboard Instruments Bulb Green + Clear
12 volt 1.3 watt (3 each/package)
Mercedes part# 000000 000977

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KL4VNCO

Note: OEM are 2 watt, these are 1.3 watt so the ATC backlight is a bit dimmer. I actually prefer dim dash illumination.

I checked Europarts SD. Nothing listed that I found.

vic
 
Last edited:

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Update.

...
These do fit perfectly!!!
Mercedes Dashboard Instruments Bulb Green + Clear
12 volt 1.3 watt (3 each/package)
Mercedes part# 000000 000977

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KL4VNCO

Note: OEM are 2 watt, these are 1.3 watt so the ATC backlight is a bit dimmer. I actually prefer dim dash illumination.
...
The other day I used the stalk switch on the 2004 to activate the headlamps and ATC back lights. My normal mode with the 2004 is to use the DRL aka Daytime Running Lights feature at night. The DRL turns on the headlamps and the running lights, but not the dash back lighting. (That is why my original 2 watt OEM lamps are still working. They see little service time.)

Anyway, today I compared the 1.3 watt lamps in the 2006 to the 2004 2 watt OEM lamps. As would be expected the 1.3 watt lamps weren't as bright, but they still lit everything well enough to see. Were I not looking for the difference I probably wouldn't have noticed.

vic
 

norson

New member
Just replaced the bulbs in my control. I made a wrench with a cut off wheel witch made the change easy. I was able to change one of the bulbs with a small screws driver. The tool took five minutes to make and the bulb change two minutes. Bulbs cost - $1.48 each and cables $9.99 each.
Norm
 

Attachments

white whale

Member
Finally will deal with black hole on the dash too. For those in BC , lordco has bulk FLOSSER bulbs behind the counter. 1.3 watt 479103 mercedes , and 2 watt vw 439103 - $4-5 each. Went with the 2 watt.
 

Top Bottom