02-03 OM612 Sprinter Fuel Regulator O-Ring Kit

pacman_34

Member
Mercedes has this as a kit for $12.5. The part number is a0149977045. It is labled as some kind of vacuum kit.

Indicator that the pressure relief valve may need to be rebuilt: starting takes longer or will not start when warm.

Re: 02-03 Sprinter Fuel Regulator O-Ring Kit

I used a 1/4 hex bit tip holder to remove the bolts on the rear pressure regulator because a standard torx would not fit on the driver side. I cut the hex shaft a bit shorter and stuck a 1/4 socket on the end with a 1/4 ratchet. Take the driver side bolt out together with the regulator so you don't drop it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-3...353?N=c25l?Ns=P_REP_PRC_MODE%7C0#.UnWD2nCajnc
 
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NetDoc

Member
Re: 02-03 Sprinter Fuel Regulator O-Ring Kit

Where is this fuel regulator? Perhaps you have a picture? I leak raw deisel every now and then from the front of the engine. I have yet to be able to trace it.
 

NelsonSprinter

Former Nelson BC Sprinter
Re: 02-03 Sprinter Fuel Regulator O-Ring Kit

Where is this fuel regulator? Perhaps you have a picture? I leak raw deisel every now and then from the front of the engine. I have yet to be able to trace it.
The fuel pressure regulator is at the far end of the fuel rail under the cover as seen at part # 12 of little picture .

The diesel may be leaking out of the fuel line connections because the white retaining clips are not in the locked "out" position or O-rings are worn
as seen above the red letters VAC
primeFuel-2.jpg
Fuel rail.jpg
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Re: 02-03 Sprinter Fuel Regulator O-Ring Kit

Where is this fuel regulator? Perhaps you have a picture? I leak raw deisel every now and then from the front of the engine. I have yet to be able to trace it.
Your 2005 OM647 engine has a different style fuel rail solenoid. It is an integral part of the fuel rail and does not have the replaceable seals.

Check your high pressure fuel pump for fuel leaks. There has been some history of the body machine screws becoming loose. In the earlier stages it will often leak when cold and "heal" when the engine is hot. The fuel pump needs to be removed to access the screws.

There is no indexing to worry about when removing the pump. The injector timing is all done by the ECM.

There is more info if you search from the blue bar above. vic
 
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NelsonSprinter

Former Nelson BC Sprinter

tampaguy

Member
2003 fuel pressure regulator removal

2003 fuel pressure regulator removal

anybody know how to remove this sucker, pain in the neck to get to, i was wondering if anybody did it and what tools they used because i cant seem to get a socket on those torx screws:yell:
 

EZoilburner

03 2500 158wb HR
Re: 2003 fuel pressure regulator removal

You need a thin torx socket or like I did I used a regular 1/4" drive socket after i 'shaved it' down to the size I needed then use a 1 1/2" extension and a small 1/4" ratchet. Even with this you'll work by feeling the two bolts. After cleaning the area for the new regulator and install it You can put a piece of paper rag between the bolt and the socket to hold it until you drive it in. Not an easy task but after You're done you'll see it is just time and patience. Btw, if You do happen to drop the bolts while working in the area, You'll provably find it between the starter and the block or on the ground, You can use a magnet with an extension to retrieve it or compressed air. Hope this helps.
 

tampaguy

Member
Re: 2003 fuel pressure regulator removal

You need a thin torx socket or like I did I used a regular 1/4" drive socket after i 'shaved it' down to the size I needed then use a 1 1/2" extension and a small 1/4" ratchet. Even with this you'll work by feeling the two bolts. After cleaning the area for the new regulator and install it You can put a piece of paper rag between the bolt and the socket to hold it until you drive it in. Not an easy task but after You're done you'll see it is just time and patience. Btw, if You do happen to drop the bolts while working in the area, You'll provably find it between the starter and the block or on the ground, You can use a magnet with an extension to retrieve it or compressed air. Hope this helps.

thanks a lot, I'll try that :cheers:

Re: 2003 fuel pressure regulator removal

You need a thin torx socket or like I did I used a regular 1/4" drive socket after i 'shaved it' down to the size I needed then use a 1 1/2" extension and a small 1/4" ratchet. Even with this you'll work by feeling the two bolts. After cleaning the area for the new regulator and install it You can put a piece of paper rag between the bolt and the socket to hold it until you drive it in. Not an easy task but after You're done you'll see it is just time and patience. Btw, if You do happen to drop the bolts while working in the area, You'll provably find it between the starter and the block or on the ground, You can use a magnet with an extension to retrieve it or compressed air. Hope this helps.

thanks for the paper towel trick between screw and bit holder, worked great here is what i used

I used and cut a magnetic bit holder to 1 1/2" like you suggested and used a swivel head 1/4" ratchet from harbor freight

used paper towels between each link for a firm grip


IMAG4293__1426255859_107.144.73.71.jpg

IMAG4295__1426255914_107.144.73.71.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-quick-release-swivel-head-ratchet-96781.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/magnetic-bit-holder-36555.html
 
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hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
Long starts when cold, no other starting problems once it kicks in. Time for the O-ring kit.

The valve is located way in the back as noted above:
Capture.JPG

First - disconnect the wiring connector (squeeze the top and pull)
Second - disconnect the return fuel line. This is difficult as almost no working room. Push the line's white clip/yoke towards the firewall to disengage the hooks. I used a string to lasso the legs of the yoke and then pulled the string up with the left hand while wiggling the fuel line with the right.

Third - The big problem is how to get the two screws out. They are E8 torx, located slightly below the round casing of the valve. It is very difficult to get your hands back there. Tools are discussed above. My work-around was a Harbor Freight standard 1/4 drive E8 socket on a hex to 1/4 2-inch adapter, cut down by 1/2 inch, and a 1/4 racket closed end wrench. I quickly lost them down the back and spent 30 minutes digging them out from within the manifold enclosure. :bash: So I put some strings on each to pull them out after the next drop. :cheers:
Capture 2.JPG

Hand access from the right and coming in from behind the manifold is surprisingly better than from the left side. The bolts are not on tight. Once broken loose, they come right out. Just don't drop them. I put a cloth under the valve area in case, but I didn't get to test its efficacy.
P6111965.JPG

What is this?? Looks like some type of gum....

Because my picture of the new O-rings is so bad, take a look at the grey O-ring. Note that it has a diagonal cut. That is so that you can mount the hard plastic O-ring without breaking it.
P6111970.JPG

But the gum turns out to be plastic - and the plastic is actually a thin film worn off the lower of the 2 O-rings. The grey smudge in the picture is the plastic - like food-film. Further, the shaft of the valve is actually scored under the plastic "gum" - that is the dark area on the shaft - in the sun it is actually sparkling. Sorry for the bad picture - I did not realize until after the fact.
P6111974.jpg

There are two different Pressure Control Valves for the OM612. EuroPars SD lists them by VIN - but I was not sure how to read mine relative to its data due to my WD VIN number. anyway - mine is A 611 078 01 49
 
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hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
Here is the parts bag with the 3 O-rings. When installing the new O-ring, do it in the house or a clean work-bench and something to catch them when one of the two small rings (especially the plastic one) tries to escape. They are really small and hard to find on the ground.

Dr. A indicates that Mercedes has updated the kit and changed the composition of the plastic/nylon O-ring to gold colored sintered metal that should last a lifetime. The nylon O-ring he rates at about 150,000 miles.

P6111972.JPG

Even though your hands are working in the blind, note that I still had light. I found that you could just barely see the holes the bolts go into at the points noted in the picture. Just this little extra sighting gave tremendous guidance to the fingers.

Capture3.JPG

Total time about 60 minutes - including the 30 minutes of fishing.

There is additional information here on the Mercedes Gen-in site- but I would ignore the part about remove the intake: http://www.mercedes.gen.in/sprinter-fuel-rail-pressure-regulator-problems-poor-starting/

This mechanic indicates that a good indicator of a bad pressure relief valve is starting takes longer when the engine is warm.

UPDATE: Note that on the OM612, there are 2 different fuel pressure control valves that are not interchangeable. When you pull the valve for this job, note down somewhere the part number for the complete valve in the event you have the replace the whole valve (think code P1187-32), either

Mercedes part number: 611 078 01 49 hint to self that this is mine version
Bosch part number: 0 281 002 241

or

Mercedes part number: 611 078 05 49​
Bosch part number: 0 281 002 698

On mine, both the Mercedes and Bosch number appeared on the flat part of the back of the black casing. Noting the number now will save a whole lot of time and possibly mis-ordered parts later.
 
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Andy at Focallocal

Social Adventurer
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Andy at Focallocal

Social Adventurer
thanks for posting that extender trick Tampa Guy. i spent an hour trying to work out why none of my sockets seemed to fit until i found this post (you cant see the bolts to see why it wont fit)

here's the set up i used to eventually get those pesky bolts out. note those are not standard vice grips which were too long to turn. those are around half the size of normal ones

did changing the o-ring fix my problem? well, it did something so pressure must be an issue. now it starts without easy start, but always on the 2nd or third try. it coughs and dies out after turning over on the 1st few tries to start. still runs beautifully once its up and running.

anyone have any ideas?
 

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Pat118

New member
Low fuel rail pressure on my 03 sprinter lead me here. Crank no start. My mechanic installed a new fuel filter and was able to get it to start. Then he shut it off and restarted warm and it struggled and then started and then shut off on its own. Fuel rail pressure down to 100psi on cranking. Then I changed out the o rings on the fuel pressure regulator (thanks to this thread) and tried starting it and I'm still at cRank no start.

Mechanic wants to change regulator outright. Is that logical next step?

Thanks
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Low fuel rail pressure on my 03 sprinter lead me here. Crank no start. My mechanic installed a new fuel filter and was able to get it to start. Then he shut it off and restarted warm and it struggled and then started and then shut off on its own. Fuel rail pressure down to 100psi on cranking. Then I changed out the o rings on the fuel pressure regulator (thanks to this thread) and tried starting it and I'm still at cRank no start.

Mechanic wants to change regulator outright. Is that logical next step?

Thanks
Perform an injector leak-off test. Then perform a regulator leak-off test (as specified by doctor A) https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=250587&postcount=2
 
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