Bed Rail Mount

johnnyb540

New member
I am outfitting a 2012 Sprinter with a bed. I want the bed to be about 40 inches off the floor of the van. I intend to install steel bed rails along the side of the van for the frame to sit in, instead of having the frame attached to legs that run down to the floor. Most rails I have seen are mounted into the cross-section horizontal rib (which is significantly lower than 40 inches). How can I secure the bed rail to the vertical ribs and still ensure that I have enough strength to hold the weight of the bed and two adults without mounting it along the cross-section horizontal rib? Thank you!
 

220629

Well-known member
First let me extend you a hale and hearty welcome to the forum. welcome2.gif

I believe that many others feel my suggestions for bed frames are underdesigned when it comes to fasteners and wall strength.

Next let me say that you do not want to tie anything solidly across the width of your Sprinter. The body flexes as it rambles down the highway. If you tie anything solid across it will point load the area of the fasteners and may fracture the steel. The Sprinter body steel does seem a bit brittle compared to the older body steels that I've worked with. :2cents:

That said, presuming you don't plan to sleep in it with multiple adults while bouncing down the road, there is no reason that a bed across the Sprinter cannot be safely supported by the exterior walls and some sheet metal screws. It just isn't that much weight in the grand scheme of things.

If you don't feel that the vertical pieces in the walls provide enough attachment then I would just add a couple down pieces to the wide horizontal support below. Or perhaps bridge the open unsupported area section from horizontal to roof flange as I did with my ladder/misc tiedown re-purposed shelf uprights as shown in the Cheap Tricks. The side support could then be attached to that (those?). There is no way that the weight of a few people will collapse the walls in so supports down to the floor as some people advocate are not necessary.

There are more of my ramblings here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=223826#post223826

Many people have installed beds in Sprinters. Try searching from the blue bar above. vic

Edit: I recently answered a PM. This information may help clarify what my concerns are about cross pieces being tied solidly.

It really shouldn't take much allowance for the changing crosswise dimension. Across the length of a metal or wood cross piece there should be enough twist and torsional give that it should be fine that way. My concern with the side to side bridging is that it needs to have some allowance for expanding end to end. In my situation for my bed cross bracing I set the ends of my channel into pockets because that was easy for me.

Off the top of my head. If you plan to use a steel or aluminum angle to rest the cross pieces on (similar to a ledger board), then drilling over sized holes for the fasteners should work. My thought would be 1/2" holes for 5/16" fasteners. Slots might even be better in case the movement is greater than I anticipate. I have no data as to the actual potential movement.

To help prevent rattling a couple fender washers sandwiching a rubber washer or spacer could be included. Double locking jam nuts would keep the fastener from loosening. The cushioned washers would keep the structure tightly attached, but would allow it to slide a bit when necessary.

Any design which allows for some end to end movement should be fine. I believe the problems come from shock load when there is no give at all.
 
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hein

Van Guru
At 40" high you'll be spanning between 2 vertical columns. Spanning between those should be OK if you distribute the load where they attach to the body. Two to four 1/4-20 rivet nuts at each connection should be plenty.

Sheetmetal screws are OK but don't stay tight in the thin metal if things are flexing. Adhesive to carry the shear load would be great if you don't plan to remove the rails. I agree that you don't want to bolt the bed rigid to the wall rails. Just let the cross beams float in some slots. If your wall beam deflects too much mid span then you could stool up to it from the horizontal rail to support the middle. Hope that helps.
 

Kentsvan

New member
I guess I should clarify. I too won't go from one side of the van to the other. But I like the idea of creating a horizontal support between the vertical ribs with sheet metal. Gives a solid surface for the rail to rivet to along the full length of it. The 12" width helps distribute the torque from the rail in my mind. Also my advice is make the rails longer than your bed, then you can slide the bed back and forth if needed.
 

220629

Well-known member
...Gives a solid surface for the rail to rivet to along the full length of it. ...
What gauge of 12" metal do you expect to purchase?

I envision a horizontal side angle rail which has a wide enough flange and strength for supporting the bed cross pieces with just a couple vertical supports added in the "window" opening. Something like this.


RacksLookingBack.jpg

LowerCutAttachment.jpg

UpperCutAttach.jpg

More detail is in the first post here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4827

As can be seen by the pictures, I used re-purposed shelving uprights. That might go along with the OP mention of using a salvage bed rail angle. I find the shelving verticals handy for hanging stuff other than just my ladder.

I've not had any problem with any sheetmetal screws becoming loose. If I'm concerned about a fastener working loose I often just dab each one with Goop glue before installation. The Goop locks the fastener, but releases as you turn the fastener out. I find that Goop glue is handy stuff for many DIY repairs. vic
 
Structurally, I think a better design is one that supports the load by using the floor, and stabilizes the load by using the walls; even if the verticle supports are just "legs" very close to the walls.

Just my opinion.
 

220629

Well-known member
Structurally, I think a better design is one that supports the load by using the floor, and stabilizes the load by using the walls; even if the verticle supports are just "legs" very close to the walls.

Just my opinion.
You're not alone in that thought process.

A bed, even with a bunch of people in it, is just not that much weight. As long as the cross supports are floating at at least one end (to avoid side to side stresses), the downward force on the side of the van cannot stress the wall structure to the point of compressing or deforming the steel.

The walls are used for attaching E-track systems for many commercial haulers (the American Pickers van is one example). The stresses to the walls are far greater for that application than can ever be put on the walls by a bed frame.

I have loaded multiple sheets of drywall on my bed frame with no problems at all.

As you said though, this is my opinion. I see no reason to do any calculations under the circumstances. vic
 
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Ranman

Member
I'm planing on doing this also. I need the bed higher than the bikes I'm going to be hauling. I have just moved the rear 2nd seat to the 3rd position and am waiting on the floor mounts to replace the ones I moved. This site has been really helpful in my quest for a perfect race van. I'll post when I get it installed. I thought about using L channel and resting the bed frame, made out of 3/4in sq steel, on that. I will most likely make two frames so I can use different lengths for different amount of people sleeping. 1 or 2 or the seat in the front mounts or back etc.
 

Dingo

New member
Research big rig trailer fittings , in the Uk we have Albert Jagger
http://www.albert-jagger.co.uk/Default.aspx?tabid=431

Look at load control , i have seen internal rails riveted along both sides of the van , cups fitted & wooden beams used to support a plywood surface & when the van was working you simply removed the fittigns leaving the rails to be used for thier intended purpose of securing your load .

There must be some one local to you doing a similar product range ,best of all your insurers cannot moan as you are using commerical fittings in a commercial vehicle

It makes for a very strong & simple to fit system for little weight & riveting using the large number of holes spreads the load into the whole body sides

Hope that provides you with insperation / insparation / inspiration which ever spelling it is :bounce:
 

Ranman

Member
I looked into E tracks. Because I need to mount them higher, there is only 2 places to bolt them down. Not enough to spread the load. I do like the top rail to bottom rail mount with the stronger gauge steel pic'd above though. Still going out every night and pondering with a beer.:thinking:
 

220629

Well-known member
... I do like the top rail to bottom rail mount with the stronger gauge steel pic'd above though.
Since you mentioned it.

There are some real advantages to using the shelving uprights as I did. They are fairly heavy gauge steel, but they are also a shape which provides strength and rigidity. We find that the pre-punched holes in the steel are very handy for using for hanging things, bungee cords fastening, etc.

In the first picture you can see the bed support aluminum channel cross pieces nested in storage position. The channel openings fit together to keep the stack height lower. I did find that I need to insert some short pieces of heater hose between the nested channel sections at one end to stop the rattle madness. Unistrut would nest in a simialr fashion. There is no rattle or noise when traveling with the bed assembled.

The ends nested together.
CrossPiecesNested.jpg


The ends with hose anti-rattle. I tied them through with the gray cord. Having them on the loop of cord keeps the hoses together when not in use and makes for easy hanging for storage.


CrossPiecesNested1.jpg

Still going out every night and pondering with a beer.:thinking:
One of my favorite modes. :cheers: vic
 
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220629

Well-known member
i put L-tracks on mine from top to bottom, and i can put the bed at the height i want. and it is very strong

Super *
That sounds like a good solution. Did you just bridge the window cavity areas? Any chance for some pictures? Thanks, vic
 

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