Graphite Dave
Dave Orton
One way that worked very well.https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=194553&postcount=2
Ross,First, I must compliment you on your clever workmanship and design techniques. (I wish I had a CNC Router when I was building mine).
A little tip... The fresh water tank appears to be made of white Polypropylene. However the action of daylight can cause an algal growth within the tank. Even when mounted under the van. Here in NZ it is a requirement to comply for Certified Containment Certificate to ensure that all fresh water pipes and fixed tanks are opaque to light.
Sooo... We either make the tank out of black polypropylene or paint the tank and any clear plastic hoses under the van with black paint. Problem solved!
Cheers
Ross
I would caution about a pressure fill unless you dramatically restrict the inflow by 1 or 2 sizes down from the vent size, meaning long time to fill. So for 3/8" size unrestricted vent outlet I would use at most 1/4" inlet. Even 5 PSI inside the tank pressure build-up by water pressure surge could burst the tank or mount..................But if I can snake a hose down and fill from underneath that would be cool. If my vent is big enough I should not pressurize the tank. Right?
The silicon heating pads could damage tank's polyethylene. I believe Kat's or Wolverine heaters pads should be attached directly to metal to conduct heat away otherwise they could runaway toward burnout. If you got the 1" wide 25W Kat’s pad you could attach it to the metal frame to better distribute heat..........I did order a Kat's heating pad to put on the bottom of the tank near the outlet even though I don't plan to use this tank & water system in freezing conditions. (I'll carry a smaller drinking water container inside the van for that.)
Edit: I'm looking for a 3 tank level monitor with a pump switch and possibly a tank heat switch.
Did you install the pins in the old self tapper holes? Did you have to enlarge the holes?Package from Clips & Fasteners came today so I was able to re-installed one of the lower panels with push pins instead of sheetmetal screws. Not that I really hate sheet metal screws but if there are factory holes that can be used; why not use them. I am verifying my lower panel CAD files during this step so I can CNC some new lower panels. The current panels came with the van and are fine but I want to design some slightly different ones and offer them as a DIY kit in a variety of materials; push pins included. I am obviously investing some time and money into this build. Part of the project is to develop and offer some products to make the process easier for others and at the same time help pay some bills.
The push pins. It's going to take a bunch but the 18 for this panel were installed in 5 minutes. No guessing where to drill and no sharp screws to penetrate a wire.
Panel installed with the pins. Easy to install, easy to remove and re-install. I like that. That sub thumps, BTW.
Close up of push pins. These will be recessed (countersunk) when I machine new panels. Still looks pretty clean, vehicle-like.