2010 3500 RV build

mugget

Member
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Errr... pardon me but it seems I replied to the wrong thread. Still, happy to take any suggestions on my below problem, and interested to know how you are going to install the lining panels! :D:

mugget posted in the wrong thread said:
Looking very nice so far... especially the interior lining, very clean!

Just wondering if you could share some more info about the fasteners you used to secure the walls & ceiling? (Part number, etc.?) I'm trying to find the best method that will make the panels as easily removable as possible. Did you install rivnuts or use the factory holes in the body? With some kind of threaded insert added?

My van had a previous life as a courier van, with a dodgy ply lining install - rivnuts & holes drilled randomly, not even aligned/level. I want to fix that up so I can make it easier to drill holes in the new lining, as well as making it look neat.
 
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hein

Van Guru
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

The interior of this van was done by Van Specialties. They installed 1/4" plywood strips down the length of the van ceiling, across the ceiling at each 'rafter' and along the top of the side walls. The interior panels are fastened to those strips and directly to the interior body structure down the sides and along the bottom. It's all done with self tapping sheet metal screws which I'm not fond of but to have rivet nuts in each spot would be a ton of work. I have treated each hole with a rust preventative before reinstalling pieces. We also sealed the strips and backside of each panel with water based polyurethane. There are some photos earlier in this thread.

If I were to design my own panels. I might try to fasten them with these:



http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Push_Type_Retainer_GM_Ford_Chrysler_p/pas1860-25.htm
 
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Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

I installed my 1/4" plywood walls with 1/8" aluminum pop rivets. That worked well. No need to match up with nutserts. Next time I will probably use Macrolux plastic panels to reduce the weight and add a bit of insulation.
 

mugget

Member
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Cheers for that hein!

I like the look of those fasteners, I'll see what I can come up with... also depends on me being able to find something like that locally...
I wonder what thickness panel would need to be used to secure those properly? I guess I could always add a rubber washer or something to pad it out if needed.

The large head aluminium rivets are what the old ply lining in my van was installed with... what a hassle to remove them! I mean they look neat, and I'm sure they are good (when installed properly) but not really an option for anyone who wants to easily remove panels. And mine is very much a work in progress, who knows how many times I'll have to remove & reinstall them as my fitout goes!

Just as a side note for improperly installed rivets - I had more than a few that must have been installed a bit loose, or had managed to work themselves loose through vibration and the weight of the ply panel. And they only get worse because the sheet metal of the body cuts through the rivet. Then it just compounds and you have entire sections of ply rubbing against the bodywork to bare metal... So if you notice a small section is coming a bit loose, make sure to fix it ASAP!
 

Uncle Dave

2013 3500
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Sweet build Hein, thanks for sharing.

Is that the new Magnum Energy inverter charger with the "load carrying" feature?
If so ..Im curious to know what the minimum setting you can select for shore power.

If I can dial it down to 10 amps or so I can share a regular household breaker in my grooming van and still start and run the air reliably.

I've downloaded the manual and it isn't clear on this.

Looks like Magnum finally implemented what Xantrex has been promising.


Thanks sir,

Uncle Dave
 

hein

Van Guru
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

I haven't installed or run the inverter yet. The folks at Magnum have been very helpful so I would just call and ask. Reminds me to inquire about how to deal with temperature compensation with two battery banks. I only have one sensor but would like to monitor the temperature in both banks.
 

d_bertko

New member
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Looks like Magnum finally implemented what Xantrex has been promising.
Not sure what you're asking....my Xantrex Prosine 2.0 has an easy-to-change setting for an amp limit from a shore power source. (Mine is 8 years old)

OTOH, it doesn't offer combining gennie/shore with inverter bank to start a big ac unit
 

hein

Van Guru
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Tidied up the ECU relocate. The OEM tray is attached to the metal (white) cross piece along the top with the original mtg hole and a zip tie. The bottom is secured to the fender liner in two places. I hope the Mercedes engineers lurking here will approve; ha ha. I'm moving the washer tank to the other fender and found one that I think will fit nicely. Hope so anyway.



Follow up Note: This is not the final mounting for the ECU. Later on, I fabricated a steel mounting bracket that is much more secure and puts the ECU in a better position. -with no zip ties.
 
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Uncle Dave

2013 3500
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Not sure what you're asking....my Xantrex Prosine 2.0 has an easy-to-change setting for an amp limit from a shore power source. (Mine is 8 years old)

OTOH, it doesn't offer combining gennie/shore with inverter bank to start a big ac unit

Thats the trick....many inverter chargers have an input limit (my outback can do that) its the load carrying piece thats magic.

I like my xantrex product but I think Magnum has them beat here.

Victron claims this feature as well, but the magnum is less expensive and has higher capacity.



UD
 
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hein

Van Guru
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Holy leaking sprinter, Batman !

We had a nice rain last night so I had to cover the hole in my roof where the air conditioner will go. While checking to make sure water wasn't running in there, I found some other places water had made it's way into the van. Investigating further; I found a number of holes (~10) in the body that are located under the outside trim pieces. These holes are 'sealed' during production with a round sticker on the outside which is then painted over. Over the years (my van is a 2010) the adhesive must have come loose and some of the holes are letting water in.

There is also water that runs in past the many plastic rivets that hold on the trim. I had those sealed with Rhino-liner but a couple of them still leaked a little. So I added layer of 3M Window Weld urethane sealant over all of them. Nice bonus is that the trim panels aren't as loose anymore.

Below is a picture of the leaking holes (these are behind the drivers seat) and sticker Mercedes uses to cover them. Most of the stickers were loose. They are on the outside so I pulled them through the holes with some hemostats. The black coating is Rhinoliner which I had applied to the floor and up the sides about 8"



Water dripping in through one of the holes. This one is in the rear of the van on the drivers side. Water coming in here flows in the area between the outside skins and interior frame and normally drains out at the ends. The area where water flows is higher than the interior floor by a few inches. I would say that it is normal to have quite a bit of water in this area.

Unfortunately in my van, screws were installed at just the wrong level when the interior trim panels were installed. So instead of the water running to the ends and out; it leaked past the screws and into the van. I have the panels removed so water was running in through the holes. I had a few holes like that so I sealed them up. I am redesigning the lower panels to eliminate this problem. Beware of side panel screws in this area!! They could be leaking.



Temporary solution: rubber stopper
final solution: #20-012X here: http://www.rubbertherightway.com/body-plugs.htm



I'm glad to get this all sorted before adding insulation and putting the wall panels back.
 
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hein

Van Guru
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Reworking the OEM floor.

First I removed the asphalt mat and the countless staples holding it on. Then pulled off the wood strips that fill between the corrugations in the metal sub floor. I'm using 3/8" thick minicell closed cell foam strips to fill those plus another full 1/4" thick layer for sound isolation & insulation.

Next, I ground off the ends of protruding staples holding the filler strips (plywood that fills the slots where the floor tracks would be. Those strips are thicker than the floor so I used a router to cut those flush with back of the rest of the sheet. Finally, I filled/sealed the strips/gaps with some surfboard epoxy (Resin Research 2000 with fast hardener).

I still need to machine some plywood filler strips for the other slots (I am not reusing the floor tracks) and a couple tie down pockets I don't need.



Factory tag below. Apparently it's Delignit brand beech plywood from Denmark.

 
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Jb1rd73

2006 NAFTA 140 HR
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

We use minicell to outfit whitewater kayaks, never though of using it in that capacity. Thanks for the idea, now my head is really going to start spinning :)
 

hein

Van Guru
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Picture Dump: in van wiring.
Mostly done with this part of the electrical.
There will be some 12 V DC running under the van later on...

some notes:
rubber grommets on all body holes.
Edge guard and/or wire wrap where wire crosses body edges.
Wires ties and vinyl coated wire looms where appropriate.
12v connections soldered, wrapped with tape and shrink tubed.
All A-C in conduit and boxes.
GFI on all A-C circuits.
12 wire gauge for all A-C 15A breakers except 20A for rooftop AC

Some conduit, ties, wire loom and edge guard.


Some 12 V wiring in the ceiling and branch of thermostat wires going to roof top A/C.


Main bundle of A/V wires coming from the head unit. Also shows how the 6.5" ceiling speakers are mounted. And an 8 AWG red/black wire for future solar installation.


Driver's side convenience outlet.


Edge guard protecting wires. There were lots of edges but they are all protected.


Grommets for DC and AC conduit glued where they pass through the sheet metal.


Another grommet and some factory wiring.


More grommets.


Main AC and DC exit points and a couple of the outlet boxes with GFI outlets.
Lower box is for AC, upper box for DC. Inverter and AC/DC panels will be on the floor right in front of those.


Wires.


A/V box for signal wires (HDMI, RF, Audio/Video) going to the TV and the head unit in the dash. This will be inside an overhead cabinet where I may put a satellite receiver and DVD player There is also and A/B switch to select between antenna & cable plus a power inserter for antenna.


Same box with all the stuff crammed inside.


TV outlet box with power transfer (vehicle<>coach) relay and power switch. Mini stereo plug for passing audio from TV to the head unit. RF ground block for TV RF connection.


Wires for thermostat in drivers side wall near where the bed will be. And another grommet.


This evening I saw a praying mantis checking up on the build. I hope he/she approves.
 
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hein

Van Guru
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

More parts and pics:

Rubber body plugs to replace Mercedes stickers.




Isotemp slim test fit. I'll have to add a 45 fitting to relocate (or just remove)
the mixing valve and design/build a mounting frame.



 
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GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

More parts and pics:

Rubber body plugs to replace Mercedes stickers.




Isotemp slim test fit. I'll have to add a 45 fitting to relocate (or just remove)
the mixing valve and design/build a mounting frame.

How many of these rubber plugs did you use? I will need to seal the snap fasteners as well.

Nice and cozy fit for the Slim 15. I would think that you will hot water for many hours with the Slim 15 sitting high in the hot engine bay, good thinking. Are you planing to relocate thermostatic mixing valve?

George.
 

hein

Van Guru
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

The mixing valve will fit under the hood using a 45 or 90 adapter where it connects to the tank. I think I'll move it to under the sink and plumb it in just upstream of the faucet and shower. I'll need to insulate the hot running from the front.

I had some time to machine strips to fill the channels in the floor where the cargo rails would otherwise go. I'll tack these down with some adhesive and continue to build up from there. The material is 1" thick DIAB Divinycell H80 which I had left over from producing kiteboard cores some years ago. The strips are about 3/4" thick.



Note: I can machine filler strips in a variety of materials. Please PM me for details.
 
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hein

Van Guru
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

How many of these rubber plugs did you use? I will need to seal the snap fasteners as well.
12 but I haven't looked in the sliding door. If you order from the same place, try discount code CARD1. A liberal amount of window weld appears to work well for the snap fittings.
 

hein

Van Guru
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

I have a CNC router. I used it to cut out a support for the Isotemp water heater. (it fits best at 15 degrees)



Note: I can machine an Isotherm mounting plate (black part) for anyone wanting to do this. Please PM me for details.
 
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