Sprinter will not start - help!

showkey

Well-known member
Voltage measurement (readings) at the battery, solenoid, starter during no crank?

Can you apply 12 volts to the solenoid and get the engine to crank?
 

WWilder

New member
If I apply voltage directly to solenoid it does turn over slowly - to slow to start. I need to get someone to hep me with voltage during cranking will let you know. Thanks
 

220629

Well-known member
My recollection is the relays in the drivers fuse box are interchangeable.
I believe that we are both correct. It appears to me that MB has used the high current large blade relays in multiple positions in the NCV3 Sprinters so they are large blade and they will swap around.

In the T1N the large blade Start Relay is a one of (at least in my 2004). Sorry for any confusion.

More info is here. vic


https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=238893#post238893
 

bcislander

'07 Mercedes-badged Dodge
My money would be on the 'splice' in the heavy gauge cable between the battery & starter.

This is known to corrode & cause the 'no crank' problem you have described. Search the Forum, there are several threads describing the situation & repair.

HTH
 

220629

Well-known member
My money would be on the 'splice' in the heavy gauge cable between the battery & starter.

This is known to corrode & cause the 'no crank' problem you have described. Search the Forum, there are several threads describing the situation & repair.

HTH
I believe if you go back in this thread you will find that to be a recurring theme in the replies. Parts replacement comments seem to trump any suggestion for testing to isolate the problem.

Carry on. vic
 

WWilder

New member
Thanks for everyone's input - well I followed Showkey's direction checking the voltages and have found that prior to starting, the large + cable at the starter has 12volts. When attempting to start the voltage drops to about 7 volts. And the wire to the soleniod from the ignition is very low like 1 or 2 volts. There is only a click. When I jump the ignition wire to the solenoid directly with 12 volts the motor does turn over very slowly. This I imagine is due to the low voltage condition on the + battery wire at the starter when the ignition key is in the start position. I haven't pulled the section under the center console - is there anything under there that interrupts the + cable from the battery to the starter? Again - thanks and much appreciation for keeping me on track. Wayne
 

sailquik

Well-known member
WWilder,
Your issue sounds more and more like the previously mentioned JOINT in the middle of the positive battery cable (it's under the Sprinter, not under the floorboards inside the cab).
This is a know failure area, particularly common in Sprinters that live in cold winter areas where they salt the roads.
Just replace the entire + battery cable from the battery to inside your cab.
Roger
 

WWilder

New member
I thought I would shortcut troubleshooting the cables by running a jumper cable from the interior battery to the jumper post and ground post under the hood. Seemed logical just parallel them with the jumper cables. Well now the ignition key will not turn. So much for my logic - and more importantly not sure how it can be towed to the dealership in park. Unless someone knows how to clear problem with the ignition switch. I guess I will need to pull the drive shaft.:frown:
 

sailquik

Well-known member
WWilder:
Are you sure the steering wheel locking mechanism is not simply jammed a little?
Gently work the steering wheel back and forth in both directions while trying to gently turn the key.
NCV3's have had some steering lock issues in the past.
As far as putting your gear selector into neutral, there is an interlock that you can trip that holds the gear selector lever in
Park (P) when the key is not inserted.
Check your Owner's manual for how to access and trip the gear selector lock.
Basically you need to remove the small round (approx. 1 1/4" dia.) plastic plug on the back of the gear
selector housing (just below and behind the gear selector) and push the interlock pin until the gear selector
lever will move back away from the dashboard to the neutral position.
No need to remove the drive shaft unless you are going to be towed a long distance at speeds above 35 mph.
Sounds like you may have some sort of SKEEM problem.
Have you seen the words "Start Error" in your dash board display.
Do you hear several little whirring sounds when you insert the key?
If not the voltage at the key switch may be so low the SKREEM cannot work.
Do your door locks work to remotely lock/unlock your Sprinter?
If not, you may have blown one of the main high capacity fuses the are on the
positive battery cable connection. If so, you will have no power to anything.
Here's what my Operator's Manual has to say about the key not turning:

Problem Possible causes/consequences and Solutions
The key cannot be turned in the ignition lock.
The vehicle voltage is too low.
X Switch off all non-essential consumers, e.g. the seat heating,
interior lighting, and try to turn the key again.
If this does not work:
X Check and, if necessary, replace the starter battery.
or
X Jump-start the vehicle.
or
X Consult a qualified specialist workshop.
The key cannot be turned in the ignition lock.
The steering lock has jammed mechanically.
X Remove the key and insert it again into the ignition lock. Turn
The key cannot be turned in the ignition lock.
The vehicle voltage is too low.
X Switch off all non-essential consumers, e.g. the seat heating,
interior lighting, and try to turn the key again.
If this does not work:
X Check and, if necessary, replace the starter battery.
or
X Jump-start the vehicle.
or
X Consult a qualified specialist workshop.

You said you jumpered the interior (Main Starting) battery (under the drivers side floor board) to the
to the jump start terminal under the hood, or to the front (Auxiliary) battery?
If you have more than the one battery (under the drivers floorboard), I would suggest you disconnect any auxiliary Battery for sure,
and buy a small charger (or better still an new battery) and charge up the battery under the drivers floorboard.
If you have more than one battery, there could very well be an isolator for that battery and if the isolator fails,
the bad battery (either one) could easily draw the current down to the levels you've measured.
Roger
 
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WWilder

New member
Thanks for the in-depth reply - very helpful. Ran through all of the fuses under the drivers seat and for some reason the key cleared. Unfortunately I am still where I began - it only clicks when I try to start with or with being jumped. Much appreciated - Wayne
 

showkey

Well-known member
Thanks for the in-depth reply - very helpful. Ran through all of the fuses under the drivers seat and for some reason the key cleared. Unfortunately I am still where I began - it only clicks when I try to start with or with being jumped. Much appreciated - Wayne

UPDATE????? So what happened at the dealer?:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 

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