NAG1 Transmission Fluid Change

Protege91

Member
Transmission in "N" insert a screwdriver (rectangular inspection opening) and turn TC until you see the drainplug,TC will turn very easy.
Uh, where are you putting this screwdriver? I just tried this technique and the TC would not turn. Note, engine and trans were cold at the time. I’m experimenting a dry run before I do it for real.
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
Uh, where are you putting this screwdriver? I just tried this technique and the TC would not turn. Note, engine and trans were cold at the time. I’m experimenting a dry run before I do it for real.
The screwdriver slot is in the cab, right below the letter "D." He's putting the transmission in Neutral by inserting a screwdriver into the slot.
 

Bill B.

Active member
I’ve noticed a similar shifting irregularity myself. It seems to require an excessive RPM before upshifting 2nd to 3rd.
There’s also an irregularity after the upshift from 1st to 2nd. Unlike the above 2nd engages right away but as RPM increases just after the transition you can feel a slight secondary up shift. It’s not as distinct but it’s definitely there. It’s as if it hadn’t fully engaged or there is a split 2nd gear ratio which I know sounds ridiculous but it’s not present anywhere but 2nd gear.
I’m just over 40k on a 2006 2500 but like you I changed transmission fluid but both issues are still present. I did remember to disconnect the battery before the procedure, drained the torque converter, changed filters, and followed all the refill procedures(as per sikwan’s 2008 write up) but one. I refilled with 7 quarts(6.62 litres) and thought I would need more. Sikwan specifies 8 quarts(7.57 litres) for the NAG1 which would mean we’re both underfilled. However, after the shift procedure, a warm up drive, and a few miles on the freeway the dipstick indicates my level is spot on with the upper mark, at the Indicated temperature, while the engine is running, and selector is in ‘Park’. But I should check the level again to make sure I followed all the rules. Procedure Diligence Matters
I reckon. I need to affirm the drain spec refill. 1.5 liters is a significant difference
Note: As I recall there is a step in the procedure(perhaps overlooked by the OA) which requires the selector to be used and the trick you mentioned is described in the owners manual so in case someone’s wondering there’s no need worry about damaging the shift selector as long as it’s done correctly.
 

220629

Well-known member
The dipstick level being correct with a "hot" engine determines the proper sump level. Any comments about quarts or liters involved in a fluid change are general guidelines at best.

Not that anyone asked...

If you are an eggshell on the throttle pedal type of driver I recommend some spirited driving on occasion. Power up freeway on ramps to get some good hard(er) shifts. I drive gently. The times that my 2004 has displayed slightly different shifting or light flare I have done some harder driving for a time. It has always made the transmission return to my "normal".

The above said, obviously if there is something mechanically or electronically wrong with your transmission hard driving won't help. It is cheap and easy to try though.

:2cents: vic
 

Bill B.

Active member
The dipstick level being correct with a "hot" engine determines the proper sump level. Any comments about quarts or liters involved in a fluid change are general guidelines at best.

Not that anyone asked...

If you are an eggshell on the throttle pedal type of driver I recommend some spirited driving on occasion. Power up freeway on ramps to get some good hard(er) shifts. I drive gently. The times that my 2004 has displayed slightly different shifting or light flare I have done some harder driving for a time. It has always made the transmission return to my "normal".

The above said, obviously if there is something mechanically or electronically wrong with your transmission hard driving won't help. It is cheap and easy to try though.

:2cents: vic
That makes sense Vic. I’ll give it a try. I baby this beast too much.
 

Protege91

Member
The screwdriver slot is in the cab, right below the letter "D." He's putting the transmission in Neutral by inserting a screwdriver into the slot.
I read that to mean something different.
"Transmission in "N" insert a screwdriver (rectangular inspection opening) and turn TC until you see the drainplug,TC will turn very easy."
I read this to mean After putting the transmission in "N" (however you choose to make that happen), then open the TC inspection plugs and insert the screwdriver in some magic slot of the TC to turn it, as an alternative to rotating the crankshaft.

With my transmission in N, I'm not able to turn my TC. Should it be easy to turn? Note that I was doing a dry run with the engine/transmission cold (60 or 70 degrees F).
 

220629

Well-known member
...

With my transmission in N, I'm not able to turn my TC. Should it be easy to turn? Note that I was doing a dry run with the engine/transmission cold (60 or 70 degrees F).
:idunno:

Both my 2004 and 2006 turn easily using a socket on the crankshaft. I never take the gearshift out of park when I rotate the engine to access the TC drain plug.

vic
 
Last edited:

Grouser

Live free,,, or die fighting for it,,,, no2 woke
Just a note,
The manual talks about a different shift pattern for cold verses hot engine. It will hold it in a gear a bit longer to achieve higher rpm to build up heat in a cold engine faster
 

Protege91

Member
:idunno:

Both my 2004 and 2006 turn easily using a socket on the crankshaft. I never take the gearshift out of park when I rotate the engine to access the TC drain plug.

vic
I still didn't word my question very well. I thought he was saying you can skip rotating the engine to rotate the TC. As if you could just hand-turn the TC itself by pushing a screwdriver against the TC at some angle.

I'm just trying to avoid finding a socket/extension that will fit the crankshaft since I full-time in my RV and don't want to accumulate more spare parts. :)
 

220629

Well-known member
I still didn't word my question very well. I thought he was saying you can skip rotating the engine to rotate the TC. As if you could just hand-turn the TC itself by pushing a screwdriver against the TC at some angle.

I'm just trying to avoid finding a socket/extension that will fit the crankshaft since I full-time in my RV and don't want to accumulate more spare parts. :)
Unless you get stupid you really can't hurt the TC by levering it around. My suggestion would be to wrap the tip of lever aka screwdriver with a decent layer of duct tape. That will help to grip the outer surface of the TC and also reduce the chances of damage... however slight the potential for damage might be.
:2cents: vic
 

Little Harold

grateful member
Thanks for the post! I will attempt this service over the weekend on 2005 T1N with 300K km.
-Is it absolutely necessary to buy the dipstick?
Thanks !
Harold
 

Bill B.

Active member
In my opinion there’s no valid reason to avoid buying a dipstick and doing the procedure as directed. That said, is it absolutely necessary to use your engine oil dipstick or for that matter check any fluid level after changing it? No, but the potential consequences outweigh any reason to do otherwise.
 

Little Harold

grateful member
Thanks Bill! I will go ahead and order one. I am confused as to the volume of ATF 134 needed with Torq Converter drained. Some videos say 5 QTs, others say 8 QTs. And for some reason I can't find the Shell ATF 134 in Canada? Could you help me with sourcing the right amount of an approved fluid? Much obliged, Harold
 

Bill B.

Active member
Thanks Bill! I will go ahead and order one. I am confused as to the volume of ATF 134 needed with Torq Converter drained. Some videos say 5 QTs, others say 8 QTs. And for some reason I can't find the Shell ATF 134 in Canada? Could you help me with sourcing the right amount of an approved fluid? Much obliged, Harold
I found a sale for 6 quarts On Amazon for $10/qt, ordered three more quarts and used a full 8 quarts as I recall. That is.... I have an unopened bottle and don’t recall any spills. After a complete drain including the TC, new filter, and refill I was spot on. BUT don’t rely on that. I’d fill with at least a quart less than full spec capacity, measure, then fill as needed. Be sure to follow all the steps carefully. I also recommend that you measure the amount of fluid removed and don’t refill with more than that to start with unless it’s grossly under filled.
 

Little Harold

grateful member
I found a sale for 6 quarts On Amazon for $10/qt, ordered three more quarts and used a full 8 quarts as I recall. That is.... I have an unopened bottle and don’t recall any spills. After a complete drain including the TC, new filter, and refill I was spot on. BUT don’t rely on that. I’d fill with at least a quart less than full spec capacity, measure, then fill as needed. Be sure to follow all the steps carefully. I also recommend that you measure the amount of fluid removed and don’t refill with more than that to start with unless it’s grossly under filled.
Excellent - THANK YOU
 

220629

Well-known member
I found a sale for 6 quarts On Amazon for $10/qt, ordered three more quarts and used a full 8 quarts as I recall. That is.... I have an unopened bottle and don’t recall any spills. After a complete drain including the TC, new filter, and refill I was spot on. BUT don’t rely on that. I’d fill with at least a quart less than full spec capacity, measure, then fill as needed. Be sure to follow all the steps carefully. I also recommend that you measure the amount of fluid removed and don’t refill with more than that to start with unless it’s grossly under filled.
Good advice.

My experience has been that I didn't need the full 8 quarts. 8 quarts is what should be on hand for the change, but don't just dump the full 8 quarts in (as is outlined above).

:2cents: vic
 

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