sikwan
06 Tin Can
EDIT: Additional to do list in addition to a fluid change can be found here.
The T1N was a tad over 20k miles when I decided to change the transmission fluid. Nothing out the ordinary, except changing it because I had the fluid and I wanted to get rid of the additive that I recently added.
Required Tools:
- OEM dipstick
- 5mm allen wrench (possibly 4 mm also)
- 27mm socket, with 1 inch (1/4") extension, and socket wrench with pivoting head
- T30 torx bit
- 9 quarts of ATF fluid (service manual recommends 7.7 liters for a full drain and fill).

Pan drain bolt to the left and rectangular rubber plugs on the bottom of the bell housing.
Close up of the rectangular rubber plugs

Remove plugs to access torque converter drain bolt.
Close up of the pan drain bolt and 2 of the 6 torx bolts that fasten the pan to the transmission.

5mm allen wrench to remove the drain bolt and a T30 torx bit to remove the 6 pan bolts.
I don't think you need a wrench this long, but this is all I had for a pivoting head. You'll see what I mean.

27mm socket, 1 inch (1/4") extension, and wrench with pivoting head.
Here's where the wrench is attached to the crankshaft bolt. Unclipped the hose attachment for full wrench swing.

It would've been easier to use a ratcheting wrench, but I couldn't get it in there without the pivoting head. Be careful to not hit the radiator fins.
DRAIN TC without using the plug?
My 2006 torque converter drain screw is 4 mm Allen on the forward side of the TC.
My 2004 torque converter drain screw is 5 mm Allen on the aft side of the TC. (Less messy to drain.)
The 2006 5 mm pan drain plug was so tight I just did a tilt pan drain (messy).
Without the rear air conditioning 2 belt pulley, a standard 1 1/16" socket fits (27 mm). Actually I used a 1 1/8" 12 point. (My craftsman 1/2" drive set doesn't include 1 1/16".) ONLY rotate the engine clockwise as you face the front of the engine. (Righty tighty.)
Also there's a nice Write-up by Deancm for NCV3. Much applies to T1N's, but as one example, eg. -the frame doesn't need to be shifted for the T1N.
Added2:
I agree with the feel method. The pan bolts hold the spacer blocks into place. The blocks automatically set the proper spacing for the reusable rubber seal. Tight enough. Don't strip them.
Same with the torque converter drain bolt. Tight enough. Don't strip it.
I did find this during a search.
Connector body install
"Use ATF to lube the new O-rings -also lube the exterior of the new socket and carefully align the 3 indexing slots. They will assure subsequent correct alignment of the delicate elec pins within the socket holes. Once the slots are aligned exert pressure (don't worry you won't harm it) on the socket's outer end - the o-rings will compress and the socket will "pop" into position. Make certain its fully seated then tighten the small bolt to correct torque. Using a stubby 1/4" drive wrench w/7mm socket- only about 22 in./lbs. is sufficient (gentle hand torque-if you lack a small torque wrench)." Doktor A
I cleaned everything on the transmission thoroughly, pan, above pan and everywhere I could reach. I dropped the pan, changed the fluid from pan and converter, changed strainer, used new rubber gasket.
Torqued the bolts 70in/lbs.
The T1N was a tad over 20k miles when I decided to change the transmission fluid. Nothing out the ordinary, except changing it because I had the fluid and I wanted to get rid of the additive that I recently added.
Required Tools:
- OEM dipstick
- 5mm allen wrench (possibly 4 mm also)
- 27mm socket, with 1 inch (1/4") extension, and socket wrench with pivoting head
- T30 torx bit
- 9 quarts of ATF fluid (service manual recommends 7.7 liters for a full drain and fill).
Added from my 2006 experience. (vic here.) said:My 2006 torque converter drain screw is 4 mm Allen on the forward side of the TC.
My 2004 torque converter drain screw is 5 mm Allen on the aft side of the TC. (Less messy to drain.)
The 2006 5 mm pan drain plug was so tight I just did a tilt pan drain (messy).
Without the rear air conditioning 2 belt pulley, a standard 1 1/16" socket fits (27 mm). Actually I used a 1 1/8" 12 point. (My craftsman 1/2" drive set doesn't include 1 1/16".) ONLY rotate the engine clockwise as you face the front of the engine. (Righty tighty.)
Also there's a nice Write-up by Deancm for NCV3. Much applies to T1N's, but as one example, eg. -the frame doesn't need to be shifted for the T1N.
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40609
NAG1 Transmission.As I mentioned earlier in this thread-the drain plug is removed (or attempted to be removed) with an Allen bit- not a torx bit. 5mm to be exact.
I have never stripped a drain plug's internal socket head but I have deformed a very high strength Snap-on Allen bit in the attempt. Doktor A

Pan drain bolt to the left and rectangular rubber plugs on the bottom of the bell housing.
Close up of the rectangular rubber plugs

Remove plugs to access torque converter drain bolt.
Close up of the pan drain bolt and 2 of the 6 torx bolts that fasten the pan to the transmission.

5mm allen wrench to remove the drain bolt and a T30 torx bit to remove the 6 pan bolts.
I don't think you need a wrench this long, but this is all I had for a pivoting head. You'll see what I mean.

27mm socket, 1 inch (1/4") extension, and wrench with pivoting head.
Here's where the wrench is attached to the crankshaft bolt. Unclipped the hose attachment for full wrench swing.

It would've been easier to use a ratcheting wrench, but I couldn't get it in there without the pivoting head. Be careful to not hit the radiator fins.
DRAIN TC without using the plug?
Added:The method below worked to drain a T1N NAG1 transmission TC and pan. I'd suggest trying it on your NCV3. If it works it's easier than messing with the TC plug even when one is included. The mentioned 7.5 qts. is about what I get doing a T1N pan/TC drain. An overnight drain will get more out than even a couple hours will. With the pan off I noticed that the fluid drips off the upper parts for quite some time = made things messy.
Assuming the ramps do the job.
To take this drain method my extra step. Use the ramps for your draining and just change the filter every other service. The filter on the T1N's was sized for "Once only at 80,000 miles" and then no more per the 2006 Operator Manual. Even knowing that "Once only" service schedule wasn't realistic, my logic is with a 40 - 60k OCI, the transmission filter is good for every other service.
View attachment 109834
First off, sorry for the wall of text below. I wasn't sure how to tell this story shorter.
...
So, I built myself some 6" ramps out of 2x10s (couldn't quite get myself to trust a plastic Rhino ramp for what I supposed would be long-term elevation). There's lots of room under a Sprinter, but I'm a big guy, and I like my elbow room.
With the front end elevated 6", I started draining the transmission pan. Here was my first surprise. I used my 7 quart drain pan, expecting to only get the normal 4 quarts out of the pan.
When I came back, the fluid had filled the pan to just barely under the edge. After dropping the pan and getting the rest of the fluid out of the bottom (and with what came out of the valve body), I drained about 7.5 quarts.
I had originally planned on draining the torque converter, as recommended on these forums. However, it was apparent from the amount of fluid that the converter had already drained.
The only logical conclusion in my brain is that with the front of the van up on 6" ramps, the torque converter drained back down into the transmission pan. This meant I didn't have to mess around with turning the crankshaft, digging in for the torque converter drain bolt, etc.
...
My short, short list of takeaways:
Driving up on ramps to drain the torque converter is way easier.
The Autel MD802 is awesome (for this vehicle).
Redoing the valve body was really easy to do with the above video help.
Happy with the valve replacements!
If I can do this, anyone can. This is my first major job on any car ever.
-Aaron
My 2006 torque converter drain screw is 4 mm Allen on the forward side of the TC.
My 2004 torque converter drain screw is 5 mm Allen on the aft side of the TC. (Less messy to drain.)
The 2006 5 mm pan drain plug was so tight I just did a tilt pan drain (messy).
Without the rear air conditioning 2 belt pulley, a standard 1 1/16" socket fits (27 mm). Actually I used a 1 1/8" 12 point. (My craftsman 1/2" drive set doesn't include 1 1/16".) ONLY rotate the engine clockwise as you face the front of the engine. (Righty tighty.)
Also there's a nice Write-up by Deancm for NCV3. Much applies to T1N's, but as one example, eg. -the frame doesn't need to be shifted for the T1N.
Added2:
I agree with the feel method. The pan bolts hold the spacer blocks into place. The blocks automatically set the proper spacing for the reusable rubber seal. Tight enough. Don't strip them.
Same with the torque converter drain bolt. Tight enough. Don't strip it.
I did find this during a search.
Connector body install
"Use ATF to lube the new O-rings -also lube the exterior of the new socket and carefully align the 3 indexing slots. They will assure subsequent correct alignment of the delicate elec pins within the socket holes. Once the slots are aligned exert pressure (don't worry you won't harm it) on the socket's outer end - the o-rings will compress and the socket will "pop" into position. Make certain its fully seated then tighten the small bolt to correct torque. Using a stubby 1/4" drive wrench w/7mm socket- only about 22 in./lbs. is sufficient (gentle hand torque-if you lack a small torque wrench)." Doktor A
I cleaned everything on the transmission thoroughly, pan, above pan and everywhere I could reach. I dropped the pan, changed the fluid from pan and converter, changed strainer, used new rubber gasket.
Torqued the bolts 70in/lbs.
My good deed for the day. Not needed as posted above
“ Bolts Oil pan NM 8 inch lbs 71”
“Plug oil pan” 20NM 177 inch lbs”
Dont know about the torque converter drain bolt maybe its the same as the trans pan drain bolt. Dont see in on the list.
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