Best battery you've experienced with your t1n

Colorado_Al

Well-known member
I went with the
EverStart Platinum AGM H8
for $140 @ Walmart.
It has been a champ! Great in cold weather. No problems so far.
CCA 900
 
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hayduke

2005/2006 leisure travel
The Bosch tested only 690 cold cranking amps yesterday, it's supposed to be 850. I'll be getting a new battery soon.

I looked at the Walmart everstart Maxx H8/49 battery for $120, has 900 cca. I found mixed reviews, but mostly favorable. I'll see what Costco has to offer.
I will be surprised if your Costco has a 49.
I always loved Costco batteries,and the 84 mos warranty,but that is gone .I bought the Walmart 49 for the warranty.no problems so far,but it is only a year.I also bought the Walmart 49 for the coach battery.The warranty is much better than the deep cycle,and the deep cycle is greater in height than the 49 which came with the vehicle under the passenger seat.How do you fit a 27 or 31 deep cycle under that seat?
 

syncro_G

Member
Where does the opinion that AGMs aren't good for starting come from?

I and many others have been using Odyssey batteries in diesel G-wagen for many years without any noticeable signs of wear.
Sometime after making this post, I was on the phone with someone at odyssey because I was getting ready to install an AUX battery and thought I'd use one of theirs. I wanted it to be a group 49 so that in a pinch, I could swap it out with the start battery.

The guy there told me I needed to get an "Extreme" series battery if I wanted to use it for starting. The "Extreme" batteries use thicker lead sheets that hold up to harsh starting conditions.

So to clarify my original statement, the G-wagen people are happily running "Extreme" series batteries.

I've since added two odyssey extreme group 49 batteries - one as the AUX and one as the start. I doubt its the cheapest AGM but I don't like worrying about the ability to start.
 

Colorado_Al

Well-known member
Sometime after making this post, I was on the phone with someone at odyssey because I was getting ready to install an AUX battery and thought I'd use one of theirs. I wanted it to be a group 49 so that in a pinch, I could swap it out with the start battery.

The guy there told me I needed to get an "Extreme" series battery if I wanted to use it for starting. The "Extreme" batteries use thicker lead sheets that hold up to harsh starting conditions.

So to clarify my original statement, the G-wagen people are happily running "Extreme" series batteries.

I've since added two odyssey extreme group 49 batteries - one as the AUX and one as the start. I doubt its the cheapest AGM but I don't like worrying about the ability to start.
If you are using a relay to charge your aux battery off of the alternator, you can easily wire in a switch that bypasses the relay and would allow you to use the aux battery as a starting battery without moving it to the starting battery compartment.
 
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surlyoldbill

Well-known member
I should add an update that I bought the maxx series Walmart battery. My reasoning is that I can have it tested and exchange it if needed in almost every town in the country. I had to drive 20 miles to a Pep Boys to test and/or exchange my crappy Bosch batteries.

On Costco batteries, I bought those for my Corvairs, because they had that skinny 51r that would fit in the battery tray (or slot, in the Greenbrier and Rampside). None of them ever went bad, and the one in the Ramside eclipsed 10 years.
 

syncro_G

Member
If you are using a relay to charge your aux battery off of the alternator, you can easily wire in a switch that bypasses the relay and would allow you to use the aux battery as a starting battery without moving it to the starting battery compartment.
Yes and I have, thanks! I'm using a SurePower 3104 combiner that can be wired with an optional button to temporarily link the two batteries together for starting.

I have a quick story from last month relating to this -
I had just finished overhauled the serpentine belt system over the course of many days and had inadvertently let the old start battery drain. The Aux battery was already installed but I hadn't installed that switch to link the two batteries together yet.

The old start battery didn't quite recover from this. So I ended up at one point at my kids school with a dead van. It took me only a few minutes though to figure out a solution - I pulled out the drivers seat bottom and was able to reach the solenoid with a pair of pliers to short out the terminals while turning the ignition. This was very entertaining to my 1st grader.

The van fired right up and I immediately set off to install that switch (and buy a replacement start battery).
 

Gabe Athouse

New member
I threw a 10 yr old optima yellow top deep cycle/starting battery in the van a few months ago and it seems quite content. I've heard optima isn't what they used to be, and maybe mine predates the fall of the quality, but it sure seems like a strong unit to me. I'm a fan of AGM in starting applications. I have a friend who has had a pair of old optima starting his 7.3 diesel van for like 200000 miles and over 10 yrs.

I'm also planning on installing an isolator/charger to my lithium house battery that has a built in combiner mode for situations like mentioned above. Push a button on it and it will combine batteries. It's made by battery doctor and was about 80$ on Amazon.
 
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Colorado_Al

Well-known member
Yes and I have, thanks! I'm using a SurePower 3104 combiner that can be wired with an optional button to temporarily link the two batteries together for starting.

I have a quick story from last month relating to this -
I had just finished overhauled the serpentine belt system over the course of many days and had inadvertently let the old start battery drain. The Aux battery was already installed but I hadn't installed that switch to link the two batteries together yet.

The old start battery didn't quite recover from this. So I ended up at one point at my kids school with a dead van. It took me only a few minutes though to figure out a solution - I pulled out the drivers seat bottom and was able to reach the solenoid with a pair of pliers to short out the terminals while turning the ignition. This was very entertaining to my 1st grader.

The van fired right up and I immediately set off to install that switch (and buy a replacement start battery).
Before I had installed a switch I used jumper cables from the aux battery under the passenger seat to the starting battery in the engine compartment when I had a dead starting battery.
 

PATECO

Member
Currently using a Wal-Mart Everstart Max H8 900 CCA 5 Year Warrantee with 3 year direct replacement and 2 years prorated. On all of my other vehicles here in South Florida, they tend to die right around the 30th month, which means I get a new battery for free every couple of years. I just put this one in a couple of months ago, I will wait and see how it fares.
 

cacaw

Well-known member
The 2006 original battery still works for me.
I just replaced our 2006 3500's battery last year, but I had let it completely discharge at least ten times so I was surprised it lasted that long.

After reading about adjusting charging voltages and all, I thought it best to replace it with exactly the same type of flooded battery the Sprinter came with. The most convenient one to purchase in California was the (yes, this is the actual name of the battery) "CarQuest Auto Parts OE European Batteries by East Penn 12 Volt European Group 49 OE Exact Fit Battery - 900 CCA / 1080 CA" for $155.

The East Penn part number is Part No. 649MF. Battery weight is supposed to be a good indication of quality, and this battery weighs about 10 pounds more than the Bosch version.
 

Jody

Member
My 3 year old van came with a Mercedes Branded battery so I assume this was the original.

I finally replaced it last week after 9 years total use. Included in this is the last 4 years of drive to the Alps, park up for four months, Van starts on the button. Basically twice a year !

Have replaced it with a Duracell branded Battery which my Tyre/Battery guy says is the bomb! Only time will tell but so far so good.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Guy
Batteries are much of a muchness and often made on the same production line as their brand label competitors.
With some dramatic consolidation of the aftermarket fast mover business it makes sense to look at warranty support and ability to get a replacement if the battery goes "phut" or even to get it tested FOC from the supply chain house you originally bought it from.

Now I used to be an Interstate supplier and installer and I did even try Napa for a while.
After a not too difficult search and evaluation options I saw Advanced AutoParts as my best option.
Not only being close by my business, the profit margin is generous so I am able to give FOC installation to my customers.
Should the battery fail within the warranty period it doesn't get pro rated (as was the norm once upon a time) and if often replaced with out quibble.
That no quibble posture is beneficial when many of my customers are far away from Denver.
If I get a customer who phones in with starting /cranking trouble and its a warranty possibility on the battery I can get his location and within a few minutes find an Advanced location and get him or her taken care of at little or no cost. This dramatically reduces my customer interaction time to resolving a problem especially when far away.
For me a business that gives service even though old fashioned its very customer helpful!
I don't miss Interstate whatsoever these days.
Dennis
Dennis
 
Anyone have any experience with LIthion batteries yet. I have used them in the powersports "Harleys" world. Expensive comparably but LIGHTWEIGHT, SolidCCA and 2-3 year warranty.
 

Pilot-PJ

NAFTA 2006 170" 2500 High
One thing to note. Not all new Batteries are new! check the manufacture date on the battery before buying. Also, if possible never try to charge a dead battery with the van alternator. Alternators are designed to cycle. If the battery has a bad cell and won’t hold a charge the Alternator will not cycle (aka 100 duty cycle) which will kill the alternator. Many Battery manufactures recommend charging the batteries prior to installation for just these reasons.

My battery experience is with Ford F350’s. The F350 uses two batteries so it dobbles the failure rate (when one goes bad it quickly takes the other one out). Bought a 350 and it had two Motorcraft batteries, both less than a year old. Ford wouldn’t stand behind them as I didn’t have the receipts. They had the service records and the batteries are stamped with the manufacture date, but they wouldn’t stand behind them. I went with Sears Platinum AGM with 1100CCA with a 7 year full warranty (which they don’t offer anymore) and zero problems in 7 years (although they are about 50% reserve or less of original). On every other car I have used Walmart batteries. They all last about 3 to 4 years before need to be replaced. On a per cost basis they are the most effective.

Motorcraft = Crap and Crap Service
Sears Platinum AGM = Awesome
Walmart = Cost Effective

I recommend getting a cheap load tester from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html or taking them to an Auto Part store that will test them for free. Periodically testing is the way to go, and I don’t mean leaving the dome light on, first cold night on a long road trip…
 

PATECO

Member
I use the Wal-Mart batteries, not because they are great, but because they have a good warrantee. Once I buy one, they never make it to their warrantee date in the heat of South Florida. Buy one, and I get a new battery about every two to three years at no charge. My 2005 Honda odyssey is on its 4th Wal-Mart battery, and I have only ever paid for one. When the Battery in my 2500 died, I went right out to Wal-Mart for the replacement. I will see how long it lasts.

PS. Make a copy of the receipt and warrantee (the originals are thermal, and fade quickly), put it in a Ziploc Bag, and tape it to the side of the battery. That way when it dies, the warrantee and purchase receipt are with you.
 
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220629

Well-known member
This may be old news.
I noticed that our local Home Depot stocks Exide Batteries.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Exide-Extreme-L5-49-Auto-Battery-L5-49X/204852602

Selection guide.
http://www.showmetheparts.com/n2ebattery/


http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/batbrand.htm said:
To identify the manufacturer, ask the dealer or check the battery's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). The manufacturer's code number on the battery will also identify the manufacturer. For differentiating quality, features or warranty periods, battery manufacturers will sometimes have product lines within a trademark or brand, for example, Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum, Titanium, Premium, Heavy Duty, Commercial, Standard, Plus, Turbo, Calcium, Classic, Maintenance Free (MF), etc. They will also contract with other manufacturers to build and private label batteries to complete their product lines, for example, specialty batteries, that are not economically feasible to build themselves. Motorcycle batteries are listed in the Powersports starting classification and motive, traction, standby, stationary, solar, and Valve Regulated Lead-Acid (VRLA) AGM and Gel Cell. Sealed Lead-Acid (SLA) batteries are classified as deep cycle batteries.
Manufacturer information
http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/batbrand.htm

vic
 
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Garandman

Active member
Necrothread! Tis the season. Our best battery experience was an Odyssey AGM in a Honda Odyssey. The Odyssey had power doors, powerful stereo, etc. Kids would kill the OEM battery in 20-25 minutes in the cold. We installed an Odyssey and it was still going strong four years later when we sold it, and two more years with the new owner and still going.
Consumer's Reports loves to rate things like batteries. Check your local library since most subscribe.

I put in a Sears Platinum AGM starting battery. Highly rated by CR. And pretty positive experiences with Sears stores doing the installation/disposal.

An agm may seem like overkill. Very cold weather cuts the CCA's way down but CR says that heat is what kills batteries and agms perform best for that. Definitely a recommendation for southerners.
The current CR ratings for Group 49 batteries: these are mostly the "North" versions, optimized for cold starts. Manufacturers also sell "South" versions optimized for heat resistance. Some are "Both."

A word about CR. CR rankings sometimes include data not shown online, and they never show the raw data. There are few companies less consumer-friendly than CR. In their rankings they do not list Reserve Capacity.


Battery (Group 49 / H8) CCA Warranty Manufacturer

AC Delco AGM 900 36 Johnson Controls
Interstate Mega Tron 730 30 Johnson Controls
Duracell H8 900 36 East Penn
AutoCraft Gold 900 36 Johnson Controls
Diehard Advanced Gold 850 36 ? Was Odyssey may be JC
EverStart MAXX-H8 900 36 Johnson Controls
Bosch Premium 850 36 Exide
 
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Garandman

Active member
If you are an AAA member, NAPA is offering a doubled discount during the month of November, which would put their batteries down in price with the least-expensive.

I threw a 10 yr old optima yellow top deep cycle/starting battery in the van a few months ago and it seems quite content. I've heard optima isn't what they used to be, and maybe mine predates the fall of the quality, but it sure seems like a strong unit to me. I'm a fan of AGM in starting applications. I have a friend who has had a pair of old optima starting his 7.3 diesel van for like 200000 miles and over 10 yrs.////
Johnson Controls bought Optima. In 2009 they opened a factory in Mexico. That plant had quality problems for a year or two, resulting in all the internet stories.

They've recovered and we have a Red Top five years old in my WRX. Though I prefer Odyssey or East Penn, the Red Top is usually lighter.
 

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