2010 Fuel Filter Replacement

Make sure that the front pegs on the arms at the front of the air filter are aligned with the rubber grommets, and push down to insert them.

View attachment 46525


Now they are connected.

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The air filter intake should also be sitting in the hole it fits into. Press the hose into the fitting until it connects to the fitting. You should hear it click when it connects.

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Now connect the hose from the turbo housing to the left side of the air filter and tighten the bolt on the clamp.

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You are not done yet.... You should make sure that the fuel filter is properly primed and that there aren't any leaks.

As I said earlier, I put diesel fuel from my old filter into the new filter (drained it into a clean glass jar first). But make sure that the top of your old filter is clean before you transfer any fuel. While I have read that this isn't absolutely necessary, it might make priming the filter easier...

I know that when I released one of the fuel lines during the initial disassembly, it looked as though some of the fuel drained back into the line, so I wanted to make sure that the pump was primed correctly.

So I did what Sikwan said he did in his post. See post #4 on this thread: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2318&highlight=prime+fuel+pump (Thanks Seek!).

I went through the process of turning the key to the on position (position #2 with no engine start) and I let it sit there for 40 seconds. I listened under the hood and it sounded like the fuel was being pumped into the fuel filter. But I went ahead and repeated the procedure 4 more times just to be sure. My van started up without any problems.

Then while the van was running, I looked at the filter and under the van to make sure that there were no leaks.... No leaks! Yea!

Next I wanted to reset the ASSYST so that the wrench icon would go away and that the computer would remind me of the next maintenance in another 10,000 mi or 2 years (I also just changed my oil, air filter, and will have the brake fluid replaced next week). I followed the instructions that Bikergar posted on post #1 of the thread below. The instructions are for vans without the steering wheel buttons, so if you have them you will probably need different instructions. The instructions say:

1. Put the key in the ignition and switch it on without starting the engine.
2. The ASSYST mileage will show, when the mileage shown returns to the vehicle mileage, hold the O button down till you hear a beep (could take a while)
3. As soon as you hear the beep, press the M button repeatedly and a number of reset menus will appear. Select "reset 51" (don't know what the other reset menus are for)
4. At reset 51 press the O button until a number 2 appears, release the O button, then press it twice and the LCD should show "display reset done"


I didn't have any problems following the instructions and it looks like the ASSYST did reset. (Thanks Bikergar!) Here is the link: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8113

I realize that all of this may sound complicated, but it really isn't hard at all. I probably included more information and details than were necessary, but I'd personally rather have more information than not enough...

I am So thankful for all of the information provided here at the forum and for all of the help I have received. :bow::bow::bow:

Good luck!

Kat
Thanks for the post. I just finished helping a friend who has done his '12 twice before and learned this to add to your post.

When removing the WIF, you can pry up slighly seperating it slightly from the top of the filter, then grab on to it and with a twist motion rotate it back and forth pulling up as hard as you can, to break the friction suction of the large O ring. You really can't break that part with hand force, so spinning it even 30 to 40 degress back and forth while pulling up will help.

Also use some diesel fuel from the old filter to throughly lubricate all the replacement O rings and inner contact points on the new filter, to help it slide back into place. This greatly increases the ability to re-insert the WIF into the new filter.

One more tip. The drain at the end of the WIF tube has a bleed screw with a place to attach a small length of clear tubing (look at the end of the nut, or feel it, then slide it on). You can completely unscrew that nut end and place the tube on, then replace the nut, leaving it cracked slightly to effect the bleed function. This greatly aides in removing all the air in the replaced filter. I would say a foot+ placed into a cup 12oz or larger. You partially unscrew the bleeder nut with tube attached and cycle the key twice (do not start it) till you see no bubbles in the tubing coming out. No bubbles, tighten the bleeder and your good to go. At that point your filter is charged full with no air inside.
 
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flman

Release the Kraken!
Actually the pump pushes 60 PSI, I would not worry about bleeding it, that air will quickly return to the fuel tank.
 

pfflyer

Well-known member
Thanks KAT and all others that contributed. I just completed my first fuel filter change on my 2013. My WIF sensor is built into the filter so I did not have to remove it. The hose that connects to drain water comes off when I used a pick to remove a horse shoe type clip that holds it on. Other than that my fuel filter change is the same as your write up. Thanks for your time compiling all the pictures and instructions.
 

TooMuchHair

Active member
I just wanted to post a link to a post by noblemercedes with a link to a MB service bulletin with information regarding the turbo inlet seal from the air cleaner housing.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48642
You are not supposed to rotate the air cleaner out of the way as shown in one of the photos before it was removed. Actually MB wants you to replace the seal EVERYTIME it is disconnected.
 

mlkarenbees

New member
Can anyone tell me what type of fuel filter fits the 2010 sprinter 3500? I'm trying to purchase one but several come up for this part and I know it has to be a particular one. I'm not sure I have a 3 point or 5 point senor, whether there is a hose intake, etc.
 
I just finished my first fuel filter installation on a 2010. Kat's instructions and the info here were very helpful, thank you! Everything went smoothly except now the engine light is on (doh!). The only thing I can think is that I didn't add any fuel to the new filter when installing it, I just turned the key to the ON position for 30-45sec three times before starting the engine. It started right up and runs fine, maybe the temporary lack of fuel till it self primed caused the code? Off to the dealer I suppose to have it read (head in hands).
 

sajohnson

'09 View/08 3500 chassis
I just finished my first fuel filter installation on a 2010. Kat's instructions and the info here were very helpful, thank you! Everything went smoothly except now the engine light is on (doh!). The only thing I can think is that I didn't add any fuel to the new filter when installing it, I just turned the key to the ON position for 30-45sec three times before starting the engine. It started right up and runs fine, maybe the temporary lack of fuel till it self primed caused the code? Off to the dealer I suppose to have it read (head in hands).
IDK for sure that it would be helpful, but you could get a code reader and give that a try.

Or, go to one of the auto parts stores that will scan codes for free.

Many MB codes can only be read by proprietary MB equipment, or very expensive aftermarket scanners, but some codes can be read by ordinary scanners -- mostly the emissions related codes. A fuel system issue might be one of those that can be read.

Others here probably know off the top of their head.
 

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