2010 Fuel Filter Replacement

VE6HRY

New member
I am a Benz tech and have had to deal with these filters over and over. I found the ultimate trick to the tab is to not touch it period. If you reach below the tab line you will find a ring and that ring is threaded into the sensor so all you do is grab it with your fingers and spin the fitting out of the sensor leaving the tab, connector and line attached it's that simple. You never need to touch that crappy white break in a heartbeat tab so it can't break.
 

jzf0fk

Member
Thanks to Kat for the detail write up on this.

I need to digest this some more given the number of steps.

In the meantime, I have taken his notes and photos into a word file (.doc). This makes it easier. I have also blown up the pictures and crop them.

I figure I do this once a year and not going to remember most of it.

I also included VE6HRY's comment on how to avoid dealing with the tabs...
 

Attachments

Red Eye

New member
Thankyou jzf0fk, The fuel filter is on my list of "to do projects". You made it look easy!
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
Thankyou jzf0fk, The fuel filter is on my list of "to do projects". You made it look easy!

Kat made it look easy. jzf0fk made the write up a PDF to make it easy to keep handy while you're not near a computer.
 

Wildmonkey

99.4% DNA still wild..
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread! it's been of great help to put this task on my to do list..:thumbup:
Cheers,
 
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Kat

Katmobile
I am a Benz tech and have had to deal with these filters over and over. I found the ultimate trick to the tab is to not touch it period. If you reach below the tab line you will find a ring and that ring is threaded into the sensor so all you do is grab it with your fingers and spin the fitting out of the sensor leaving the tab, connector and line attached it's that simple. You never need to touch that crappy white break in a heartbeat tab so it can't break.
VE6HRY, can you please clarify and/or provide some photos on how to remove this ring that is threaded into the sensor so that you can leave the connector attached?

From what I remember, the hose connector attaches to a neck that is part of the sensor that fits down inside of the fuel filter. So I'm wondering if you are talking about removing the entire WIF sensor (with the hose attached) from the filter?

Thanks,

Kat
 

chamerton

New member
Hi Kat,
I just purchased a 2010 Freightliner 2500 Sprinter Cargo Van and will be replacing all of the filters. Sure appreciate your write up and photos. Do you have a write up and photos on how to do an oil change? Who has the best price on these filters?
Many kind thanks.
Chuck Hamerton chamerton@gmail.com
 

Red Eye

New member
Re: Fuel Filter Change

Next time I do the fuel filter, once the WIF hold down screws are removed, I will take vice grips and bend the tabs aside to allow the WIF to come straight up.

The previous owner broke the connector and he had "half assed" zip-tied it in place.

I used the new bleeder valve that comes with the new filter like most of you.

The only addition, to keep the grime out, I've added a little protective cap.
IMG_5677 (Small).JPG

IMG_5678 (Small).JPG
 

cashaley

New member
I broke the white clip that keeps the fuel hose in the middle of the fuel filter down.Is this something that can be replaced without having to replace the whole hose(WIF)
 

chamerton

New member
I broke the white clip that keeps the fuel hose in the middle of the fuel filter down.Is this something that can be replaced without having to replace the whole hose(WIF)
Thanks for your reply. I managed to get the fuel filter changed without any problems.
Chuck
 

bkhi

New member
I am a Benz tech and have had to deal with these filters over and over. I found the ultimate trick to the tab is to not touch it period. If you reach below the tab line you will find a ring and that ring is threaded into the sensor so all you do is grab it with your fingers and spin the fitting out of the sensor leaving the tab, connector and line attached it's that simple. You never need to touch that crappy white break in a heartbeat tab so it can't break.
When I just did my filter change I saw that thin multi faceted part just above the sensor. Doesn't that spin with the connector? Or do you spin the filter which could be difficult also. The not seemed to be part of the tab and not separate.
 

Darolh

New member
I have a 2011, and I just finished changing the fuel filter. This info helped greatly. Next time will be very quick.

I did not have problem with WIF connector as much as other electrical connectors, moved gray tab out> clicked> still could not remove connector easily, I just removed screw holding bracket to left of filter and spun it out of the way.

If I could have figured out how to remove connectors on rear turbo hose I would just remove the entire thing rather than twist it back.

There has got to be a secret to removing the piece that sits right on the filter, that's a bear to remove. 4 or 5 O rings have to be unseated.
Getting it on the new filter was easy just twist back and forth while pushing.

I also filled new filter before installing which was not necessary, when key is in position 2 you can hear fuel pump filling filter. In my Isuzu and Fuso you had to hand prime, 150-200 times.

I could not find my 5mm allen wrench so my 3/16 was close enough

Really not too bad
So here's how I did it. Look at the WIF sensor and you will see the holes the retaining screws go through have threads. The diameter is larger than the threaded holes in the filter. I found some machine screws in my stash that threaded into those internal threads. You can then wind in those screws and it will get the WIF sensor loose from the filter. You will be driving it loose like some brake drums are pulled using a bolt threaded into them.

What I really need now is a tool to pull the WIF sensor back into place. I don't want to hit it and using two screws with washers isn't pulling it flush in the center. DO NOT set the filter on a bench and push down hard on the WIF sensor. You will oil can the bottom of the filter and the WIF electrodes are down at the bottom. I'm off to the dealer to get a new one to replace the filter I just dented.
 

sajohnson

'09 View/08 3500 chassis
I have found out on my 2008, that the WIF connector with the white tabs does not need to be removed from the larger black piece that is held to the fuel filter with 2 screws.

There is *just enough* fuel line to pull the whole piece up and off of the fuel filter (an extra 1/2" or so of slack would have been nice).

Maybe the same would work on the 2012 model.
Thank you for this tip danski!

I was struggling with the WIF connector, did a search, and found your post. Pulling the entire assembly out saved me a lot of time, and potentially a broken connector.

The fuel filter replacement will go easier next time.

This tip should be in a sticky if it isn't already.
 

yukonraven

New member
WARNING! A note re. The WIF sensor. Given the 4 o-rings on it, it is very difficult to remove and even harder to insert into the new filter. Tapping it in with a block of wood as a buffer resulted in a hairline crack that leaked profusely once the engine was started. :yell: This is a $185 item that had to come from Germany (2 weeks). MB will have a press to do this properly. I will find longer attachment bolts that will hopefully allow me to evenly cinch the WIF into the filter. Once securely in place, I will remove the longer bolts and replace them with the short originals. Using a vice or clamp can dent the bottom of the filter
 

flman

Release the Kraken!
WARNING! A note re. The WIF sensor. Given the 4 o-rings on it, it is very difficult to remove and even harder to insert into the new filter. Tapping it in with a block of wood as a buffer resulted in a hairline crack that leaked profusely once the engine was started. :yell: This is a $185 item that had to come from Germany (2 weeks). MB will have a press to do this properly. I will find longer attachment bolts that will hopefully allow me to evenly cinch the WIF into the filter. Once securely in place, I will remove the longer bolts and replace them with the short originals. Using a vice or clamp can dent the bottom of the filter
You should have oiled the o rings first, I never have a problem with mine. No vice, or vice grips, my 2 hands is all I need.
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen

yukonraven

New member
Excellent instructions. Thanks Kat. For me, reinserting the fuel pre-heater unit back into the new fuel filter was an issue. Tapping with a hammer and block of wood, as you did, resulted in a hairline crack in the unit, which resulted in a fuel leak upon starting the engine. To install a new one ($185!), I purchased 2 metric bolts about 6mm longer than the original torx bolts, and was able to cinch the fuel pre-heat unit into the filter this way. Then I replaced the longer bolts with the short originals. Worked perfectly.
 

BobLLL

Member
Getting the fuel heater/water sensor into the filter is a real struggle, even if the o-rings are lubed. I turned mine upside down on the workbench, with the heater on small block of wood, and pressed the filter can down onto heater. Very difficult. Next time, I will try cinching it on with longer bolts, as yukonraven did.

For reference, the bolts holding the heater in the filter are 5mm - 0.8 x 16mm. So one size longer might work for cinching the heater in.

To extract the heater (using the larger threads in the heater flanges), 6mm-1.0 x 16mm or longer should work.
 

1109

New member
Gee thanks Flman, for some reason I never thought of oiling the "o" rings, next time I'll try it. But as for removing the pre-heat unit I find it comes out easily after the engine is warm.
 

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