LooseRocks
Active member
I didn’t take any actual measurements (I will tomorrow morning). But I would guess that the hard plastic portion at the front of the cable would be shorter for the low base vs. the standard height base.
I assume it is this product https://www.8020.net/hello Where do you get this aluminum bar product loks nice.? thanks Tom
Hi George - I'm planning on using smart plug now as well.. Was planning on the 50' 30amp cordset as well. But had to get the pigtail adapter to go from 30A male plug to 15A plug so I can use at the house. You've now got me wondering if I don't just go the other way, and buy a 10 or 12AWG extension cord and put the smartplug end on that; then just use a 15a to 30a adapter if ever needing to be at a RV park; I'd probably be on 15A service way more than 30a service. And I'm having 200-300W solar to boot.Recently I had a little time to get back to the Sprinter project and finished the shore power hook-up. Instead of using a popular 30A Marinco style twisting plug I decided to use a newer product, the SmartPlug with built in thermal protection and much easier insertion, the plug is self-aligned and no rotation is required. I still need to make a cable with SmartPlug female and RV 30A male.
The shore power inlet is mounted to the OEM hitch using McMaster Al junction box http://www.mcmaster.com/#75895k13/=px990m and http://www.mcmaster.com/#8302k191/=px99fs liquid tight cable grip. I drilled and tapped 2 holes (5/16”-20) on the hitch side plate and used sealant between the box and the hitch.
George.
If you need a 30A service you will need 30A cable. For home keeping it could be less expensive to add a 30A RV >15A adapter to that cord than a new 15A cord with additional SmartPlug.Hi George - I'm planning on using smart plug now as well.. Was planning on the 50' 30amp cordset as well. But had to get the pigtail adapter to go from 30A male plug to 15A plug so I can use at the house. You've now got me wondering if I don't just go the other way, and buy a 10 or 12AWG extension cord and put the smartplug end on that; then just use a 15a to 30a adapter if ever needing to be at a RV park; I'd probably be on 15A service way more than 30a service. And I'm having 200-300W solar to boot.
thoughts ?
George and I differ on this subject. Depends on your application if you need 15 amp or 30 amps. In my case without air conditioning, I see no need for a 30 amp connection and I avoid campgrounds with power anyway. Prefer to park on a city street. If I ever need shore power, it is more likely for me to have access to a 15 amp service than a 30 amp service.Hi George - I'm planning on using smart plug now as well.. Was planning on the 50' 30amp cordset as well. But had to get the pigtail adapter to go from 30A male plug to 15A plug so I can use at the house. You've now got me wondering if I don't just go the other way, and buy a 10 or 12AWG extension cord and put the smartplug end on that; then just use a 15a to 30a adapter if ever needing to be at a RV park; I'd probably be on 15A service way more than 30a service. And I'm having 200-300W solar to boot.
thoughts ?
You bringing a valid point, folks do their DIYs primarily for 3 reasons:................When you go to sell it there are more potential customers that need 30 amp though.
Never work with a vinyl floor installation. I don't foresee too many problems but time will tell. My plan is to install vinyl floor on the sanded side of the pre-cut fiberglass foam board on a bench and lay it down in the van's floor after edge trimming. I could decide to split the fiberglass board to 2 pieces if the whole structure would be too heavy. The most difficult will be trim work at the sliding door for which I bought an extra grey plastic trim from the MB dealer.I am still planning on loose lay vinyl. I wish it was not so heavy. Have you installed vinyl sheet before?
Thank you for your feedback. All my cabinets are constructed from the 8020 aluminum frame sitting directly on the factory passenger van floor. Because it is just a cabinet frame there is no cabinet floor and in most places I can access the floor in case of a spill. In the same way I am planning to install these modules on the new floor.Don't remember the details of what would be at the edges of your floor (toe kickboards under cabinets?).
Thought--if you have one continuous piece of vinyl flooring, maybe make it into the shape of a huge shallow baking cookie pan where the vinyl flooring goes up the walls, toe kickboards, etc., to serve as a baseboard.
That way, there are no edges/cracks to sweep (no 90 degree corners but rounded corners). Water and other spillages would not disappear into the edges but would be contained.
Even if you just cut your vinyl sheeting one inch larger all the way around than your floor panels, would make a tiny trim/baseboard.
I think they even have metal edging or caps for the edges of the vinyl flooring which goes up the walls as a baseboard.
Also, could consider hiring job out to expert vinyl flooring installers. Would be like installing vinyl flooring for a small bathroom.
My fridge is above the floor, there are 6 screws attaching front vertical flanges so removal of the fridge is trivial, after removal of the 4 screws I can slide out the fridge. It takes about 5 minutes to remove the galley, all electrical connections are through quick connectors, hot and cold water via quick connectors and I need to remove hose clamp for the drain line.Disad: Continuous floor and baseboard could make removing things for repair more difficult--like installing an undercounter dishwasher then tiling the kitchen floor so can't pull dishwasher out without lifting it over thickness of tiles (and hopefully clearance space between top of dishwasher and countertop).
GeorgeThank you for your feedback. All my cabinets are constructed from the 8020 aluminum frame sitting directly on the factory passenger van floor. Because it is just a cabinet frame there is no cabinet floor and in most places I can access the floor in case of a spill. In the same way I am planning to install these modules on the new floor.
My fridge is above the floor, there are 6 screws attaching front vertical flanges so removal of the fridge is trivial, after removal of the 4 screws I can slide out the fridge. It takes about 5 minutes to remove the galley, all electrical connections are through quick connectors, hot and cold water via quick connectors and I need to remove hose clamp for the drain line.
George.
With the exception of the swing out table built from the 8020 Quick Frame extrusions all other extrusions are 15” series – 1.5" in multiple profiles. All of my modules are primarily attached to the floor (except overhead cabinets) so for crash proof design I picked 1.5”. The complete frame strength is related to beams strengths but also to t-slot attachments/joints strength. At some points I used double attachments, such as internal angle and an end connector. The strength of 15 series joints is considerably stronger than 10 series joints. For overhead cabinets I used anchors, the strongest fastener, in order to keep the assembly very strong, I explained why in an earlier post.George
Really nice build George, what 80/20 trusts you used? 1"?