Layout plan.

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
One mistake early in the conversion process was skipping a table for later, big mistake. I have a nice table now but it required too much of my time and funds. My original plan was to have and L post attached to the cabinet a la VW Westfalia but later in the process it would be too difficult to modify the microwave cabinet for the L table post.

For the first version I used 80/20 hinges, it was a mistake. The table sagged due to flimsy 8020 hinges. So, I redesigned new arms from scratch. Used water jetting cutting for 4 main parts made from 6061 ¼” aluminum. I also had to redo brass main posts.

GZR03115.jpg

New posts

GZR03121.jpg

Old arms with 8020 hinges, they required support and constant tightening.

ZGR10383.jpg

New hinges, strong and level, my original supporting black post is now too short and likely not necessary.
GZR03146.jpg

GZR03145.jpg
 

kpmnd85

New member
I got the CAD model for the M1-15-61-8 and looks like it will work well with 10 series. The drawing calls out a 0.2 inch nominal dimension when closed. I used 0.5" thick door material and added a 1mm thick cabinet door bumper and it looks about perfect.

Closed:
View attachment 150773
Open:
View attachment 150774
Fellow windsurfer and very interested in your build! Great work.
Regarding drawers and Southco M1: You are using a 0.5" door. When I pull up the spec on the Southco M1-15-61-8 I can find a Southco M1-61-8 but it is for a door thickness of 0.075" - 0.275" per below. Did you actually use a M1-63 (in black) that is for a 0.475" - 0.675"? Thanks for the clarification.



SOUTHCO PART NUMBERS
FinishDoor/Panel Thickness
0.075" - 0.275"0.275" - 0.475"0.475" - 0.675"0.675" - 0.875"
Non-Locking Latches
BlackM1-61M1-62M1-63M1-64
WhiteM1-61-1M1-62-1M1-63-1M1-64-1
StainlessM1-61-8M1-62-8M1-63-8M1-64-8
Locking Latches
BlackM1-41M1-42M1-43M1-44
WhiteM1-41-1M1-42-1M1-43-1M1-44-1
StainlessM1-41-8M1-42-8M1-43-8M1-44-8
Key Locking Latches
StainlessM1-71-8M1-72-8M1-73-8M1-74-8
 

Airtime

Active member
Fellow windsurfer and very interested in your build! Great work.
Thanks! Great to meet another windsurfer.

Regarding drawers and Southco M1: You are using a 0.5" door. When I pull up the spec on the Southco M1-15-61-8 I can find a Southco M1-61-8 but it is for a door thickness of 0.075" - 0.275" per below. Did you actually use a M1-63 (in black) that is for a 0.475" - 0.675"? Thanks for the clarification.
Here's a link to the M1-15-61-8 part. Door thickness specs are 7mm to 19mm, so it does work with 1/2" panels.
https://southco.com/en_us_int/m1-15-61-8
 

Airtime

Active member
I answered too soon not realizing the question was addressed to you. Cheers.
No worries! I got the idea from you and just adapted it to series 10.

@kpmnd85 if you want to take a look at my build with room for inside board storage, and series 10 cabinets, you can see it here. I've been tweaking the dimensions of the Southco mounting location, I'll post some dimension drawings there when finalized.
 

jacka714

New member
GeorgeRa thank you for your extensive build info! I'm using some of your ideas as I build components waiting for a van.

How have the 80/20 anchor fasteners worked long term? Any loosening? Did you put any thread locker into the anchor bolt threads to keep the anchor from coming loose?
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
GeorgeRa thank you for your extensive build info! I'm using some of your ideas as I build components waiting for a van.

How have the 80/20 anchor fasteners worked long term? Any loosening? Did you put any thread locker into the anchor bolt threads to keep the anchor from coming loose?
No issues with loosening of joints. For fasteners I used mostly various 5/16”-18 T-nuts from 8020 with flanged button bolts from McMaster-Carr. In the beginning of the project I had a couple of issues with sliding fasteners along the slot and since in any situation where sliding was possible, I used two types of fasteners for example an end-connector and a corner bracket.

I didn’t use thread-lockers, just make sure to use sufficient a torque (80/20 has a table) to engage the two-degree thread locking feature, see the video below. I suggest to use Bondhus long T-handle Allen wrenches, if the handle begins to twist it is usually enough torque.

I didn’t look for low cost fasteners, easy ordering and quality where my primary goals so practically 100% of them came from either 80/20 or McMaster-Carr. McMaster has an excellent online selection including flanged button bolts and improved shipping. I mostly used stainless steel.

Good luck with your build!

dfhdhh.png

 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
It is much less expensive to use two hole economy nuts when you want a treaded nut. Also easier to install. Put a set screw in one of the threaded holes and a bolt in the other hole. Use the bolt head to move the nut into position and then tighten the set screw. Because there is a bolt in the economy nut the threaded hole is aligned with the slot.

I used single hole nuts with a set screw in the Sprinter build and the two hole economy nuts in the Transit build. Found the two hole economy nuts to be much easier to install in the correct location.

If you want to bolt something to the extrusion that you do not want to rotate then use a three hole economy nut with the set screw in the center hole.
 

kcshoots

VanTripping.com
Based upon Hein, Graphite Dave and GeorgeRa's lead and information share, I too installed cabinetry entirely framed in 8020 although all 1" profile and purchased mostly from Tnutz as way less costly or from McMaster-Carr for when I needed something in a hurry (always next day). I have done much significant off roading in the van since completed, many times being on two wheels, crossing steep washouts, climbing seemingly impassable rocky hills and other challenges, and have not noticed any loosening of the cabinetry or their connectors. I have checked several connections over the two years of using it. My queen bed frame of 8020 floats on top of four linear actuators for vertical movement that is tracked to 8020 cabinets, fold down and slide out table with 8020, overhead cabinet cantilevered four feet out, swiveling two person bench on 8020 cabinet base, 6 by 4 foot slide out bike drawer on 500 pound slides that I regularly walk around on while out, etc., and not a single issue. It's easy to use and get tight. I installed an entry handle to the 8020 cabinet at the slider and primary use it when entering the van. If I pull on it as much as I can, I simple rock the van without cabinet movement. I like the suggestions but preferred drop in nuts; although more expensive allowed flexibility in phasing and adding connections, plus easier to align than slide in nuts.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
It is much less expensive to use two hole economy nuts when you want a treaded nut. Also easier to install. Put a set screw in one of the threaded holes and a bolt in the other hole. Use the bolt head to move the nut into position and then tighten the set screw. Because there is a bolt in the economy nut the threaded hole is aligned with the slot.

I used single hole nuts with a set screw in the Sprinter build and the two hole economy nuts in the Transit build. Found the two hole economy nuts to be much easier to install in the correct location.

If you want to bolt something to the extrusion that you do not want to rotate then use a three hole economy nut with the set screw in the center hole.
To lock a T-nut in place I used a very few double or triple holes T-nuts. I used the #3010 spring with economy nut to lock them in desired position.

There is new corner fastener on the market but it requires their custom series 40 profiles http://www.kremco.co/design. I have no idea about their cost. I need to replace my garage bench, perhaps I try them.dfhdhh.png
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
GeorgeRa thank you for your extensive build info! I'm using some of your ideas as I build components waiting for a van.

How have the 80/20 anchor fasteners worked long term? Any loosening? Did you put any thread locker into the anchor bolt threads to keep the anchor from coming loose?
I was cleaning my mail and reread your post realizing you had a specific question regarding anchor fasteners. Absolutely no loosening and no thread locker. I used them in most critical joints. Great fasteners but they require milling so they are more involved than end connectors or slot fasteners.
 

Airtime

Active member
Routing of the right side of the fuel line, mounting the exhaust tube with the muffler and mounting of the air intake tube are done. The right side of the van is almost finished, adding the adjustable shore water pressure regulator and the toilet vent are the last things to be completed.
George, is your D2 exhaust routed up behind the passenger side front wheel? How do you like that location after years of use? I don't want it too near the slider for reasons of smell. Thought about routing to driver side but your setup looks clean and easy.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Yes, exhaust is behind right front wheel, see the picture. I never had a D2 exhaust odor problem, but I always keep the van doors closed during D2 operation. On occasion, I slightly open the driver side mid window but even than I have no issue from D2 exhaust nor occasionally run D5 (driver side front) for hot water.

Running long routes for exhaust or intake could present some operation problem, Eberspacher manual clearly states maximum runs including max number of turns.


DSC00604.jpg
 

Airtime

Active member
Thanks George, I think I'll follow your lead again. I do want a short run to minimize chance of condensation, this looks like a good routing.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I have Espar Hydronic 5DSC heater, that is the one with integrated coolant and fuel pump heating Isotemp water heater only. No connection to the engine coolant circuit. System is not pressurized. The unit sometimes leaks, only if runs, usually after longer off times. After a small puddle it tends to stop leaking and again….

Anyone with Hydronic heater experience this type of problem?

My plan is to replace two O-rings between the plastic cover with pump orings.pngand main aluminum body where I believe is the leak. https://www.heatso.com/espar-eberspacher-o-ring-seal-for-hydronic-heaters/
 

avanti

2014 GWV Legend 3500 I4
Anyone with Hydronic heater experience this type of problem?
I have a very strange leak somewhere in my D5 hydronic system. It is just fine during the whole camping season, but when I put the rig away during a frigid period, when I get back to it, the expansion tank will be empty! Very strange. I assume that something is contracting from the cold causing an intermittent leak. So, it is kind of the opposite of your problem. The leak is somewhere around the D5, but it is almost impossible to observe so I have been unable to track it down. :thinking:
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I have a very strange leak somewhere in my D5 hydronic system. It is just fine during the whole camping season, but when I put the rig away during a frigid period, when I get back to it, the expansion tank will be empty! Very strange. I assume that something is contracting from the cold causing an intermittent leak. So, it is kind of the opposite of your problem. The leak is somewhere around the D5, but it is almost impossible to observe so I have been unable to track it down. :thinking:
You could have good seal on O-rings if your system is pressurized. Lost of pressure combine with low temperature could cause leaks on O-rings during storage.

My system is not pressurized, puzzling is leaks randomness. I disassembled my D5 once, perhaps I damaged fragile O-rings and did not replace them.
 

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