Layout plan.

[GeorgeRa]

I had most of my HDPE material CNCed except large 80/20 cabinets filler panels cut on my table saw. 2 good reason to do by CNC:

1. Speeds up the assembly
2. It is very accurate, and cuts look proffesional
3. It allows shapes either difficult or impossible to achieve with common house tools.

I decided to change the shape and the thickness of the countertop by adding the back drip stop and make the sink cutout to better hold the Dometic/Smev VA7306. All other parts are for the transom shower, changes in the electric cabinet and the galley, and adding the sliding door step storage.

Yes, it cost money but I believe the benefits outweigh it, at least for me. Hein has been doing it for me and I can count on his engineering judgment to make things right, thank you.

George.

 

[GeorgeRa]

I installed a plusnut and a jacknut on the piece of the same 1/4" plywood and both will work fine but decided on the plusnut. It requires smaller hole, seems as the same damage to the plywood's back side as the jacknut but seems stronger. Likely an overkill for my application.

George.

 

[GeorgeRa]

I replaced the Intelletec Bi-stable relay (5300066.100 - 100A) and my electric system is working great. To understand the failure of the removed relay, with which I had a very positive experience in my past RVs, I disassembled it as well as called the company.
The failure was twofold:

1. Relay was sometimes stuck in the “on” position
2. I could not get the relay to turn “on”

After disassembly the connected copper disk got stuck for even minutes with compressed release spring, so this was the reason why the relay was getting stuck in the “on” position, it supposed to be release instantly for the relay mechanism to work properly. When stuck I measured the resistance, mostly it was open sometimes reaching the level of 1K Ohms with additional finger pressure, vary variable.

The contact area had dark and sticky residue, I called the company and the fellow informed me that they are adding dielectric grease with low pH, he ventured to possibility that the dielectric grease has degraded for whatever reason, temperature or humidity. This relay was 3 years old.

The relay is perfectly good except the residue which could be removed and replaced with a correct grease definitely different one that the factory used.

If I had to pick up again a Bi-stable relay I would pick the Bluesea one with silver coated contacts.

George.

 

[Jackies Dog Grooming]

I replaced the Intelletec Bi-stable relay
1. Relay was sometimes stuck in the “on” position
2. I could not get the relay to turn “on”

George, I'm curious about this. I'm still new with the DC stuff, so pardon my dumb question. But isn't a "bi-stable" relay a latching type relay? IE: supposed to be stuck on or stuck off until a reverse polarity is introduced or slow discharge?

And yes, when my Stinger isolation relay takes a crap, I'm replacing it with a Blue Sea relay.

 

[GeorgeRa]

......................... supposed to be stuck on or stuck off until a reverse polarity is introduced or slow discharge? ................................

Indeed, that is how it supposed to work but mine didn’t. The sticky residue did not allow electrical contact with the relay being mechanically in the on position; and provided enough adhesion so the copper plate being stuck did not lift off the contacts with the coil under reverse polarity, fortunately my relay was mounted with the swinging magnet on the bottom so after so time the relay was able to turn itself off. See attached pdf file for more description of the relay mechanism.

There would not be an issue if the dielectric grease would be low viscosity and long lasting (they could have some manufacturing changes over the years) or contacts would be silver plated.

From now on I know the relay failure mechanics so if this failure will repeat itself with the new relay I will be switching to Bluesea.

George.

 

[Jackies Dog Grooming]

Ah yes, got it. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

 

[Turand2006]

I drafted numerous extravagant plans when I first got the van, yet found that keeping it simple was the way to go. I insulated the inside cab, stained plywood and installed the walls, created a removable bed, installed a seat swivel, installed a roof fan/vent, threw in a few storage boxes and voilà...

https://youtu.be/aST_3sFg-tM

 

[GeorgeRa]

I am working on my sofa bed Bowden cable latch release mechanism from the bed to the seating position which required removal of the front panel 80/20 beam. The 54” long beam had a total of 10 t-nuts for its attachment points and for the swinging front legs plus 2 end connectors. After installing the beam with its end connectors, the access to t-nuts was very limited. To speed up the assembly process I placed each t-nut in the appropriate place and to fixed their positions used t-nut springs. So, if you dealing with a limited access beam’s slots or vertical slots the inexpensive spring (100/$7) could be a life saver. Still waiting for some McMaster Carr parts.

Using springs is also a good method to place some extra t-nuts for potential future attachments and prevent vibration. You can always use roll-in nuts for additional cost, but I found that they like to partially roll-out.
https://8020.net/3010.html#product_tabs_additional_tabbed

George.

 

[Graphite Dave]

A less expensive method of getting a tapped hole in a 80/20 extrusion is to use either a 2 or 3 hole economy nut. Put a set screw in one of the treaded holes to hold it in place and use the other threaded hole. If you need a connection you do not want to rotate then use a 3 hole economt nut with the set screw in the center hole. The set screw holds the nut in place on a vertical extrusion. You do have to put a bolt in the hole you want to use so nut is aligned to the slot. The bolt makes it easy to move the nut before set screw is tightened and to locate the threaded hole to a pencil mark for the location.

I about eliminated the use of roll in nuts on the Transit build. The economy nuts are less than $1 each vs. over $2 each for the roll in nuts I used in the Sprinter. You do need end access to install the economy nuts.

 

[GeorgeRa]

A less expensive method of getting a tapped hole in a 80/20 extrusion is to use either a 2 or 3 hole economy nut. Put a set screw in one of the treaded holes to hold it in place and use the other threaded hole. If you need a connection you do not want to rotate then use a 3 hole economt nut with the set screw in the center hole. The set screw holds the nut in place on a vertical extrusion. You do have to put a bolt in the hole you want to use so nut is aligned to the slot. The bolt makes it easy to move the nut before set screw is tightened and to locate the threaded hole to a pencil mark for the location.

I about eliminated the use of roll in nuts on the Transit build. The economy nuts are less than $1 each vs. over $2 each for the roll in nuts I used in the Sprinter. You do need end access to install the economy nuts.

A good method if you have a room for it, see the drawing, single t-nut with spring is $0.34 and triple t-nut is $1.35 + set screw, so not necessarily less expensive. I used your method a few times.

George.

 

[Graphite Dave]

Double economy nuts are .69 each.

As usual there are always compromises. You do need longer slot space and the end access.

I was frorced to use a few roll in nuts where I forgot to install the economy nuts after I had blocked the end access. First choice was always the economy nuts.

I would just like to get past the stage where I am still adding things to the 80/20 structures. The second conversion seems harder than the first. Unfortunately now you know how much work still needs to be done.

 

[GeorgeRa]

It is nice to have the van in the garage to do some final touches on the conversion. I added Mornigstar 300W in the reasonable location, it is having its own outlets. Most likely it will be my predominant inverter over the Magnum 1000W one. Added a few handles, remote for the sofa bed latch in the convenient location in the front of the bed. I am hoping for a little warmer weather to finish Espar D5 install, concrete floor is very cold.

George.

 

[GeorgeRa]

...more pictures.

 

[Graphite Dave]

Wish I was at the last stage as you are.

The plus-nut tool you have is what I use. Works great and fits in tight locations.

 

[hein]

Looks great! The bed release handle turned out nice. Printed templates are handy. Just take time to verify an x & y dimension to make sure the printer is actually printing at exactly 100%.

 

[casmith32]

Regarding using the coolant loop to protect the water tank from freezing... I have a rixen system I'm installing; with my fresh water tank sitting inside the van, above the wheel well in a wheel well cabinet. Even though I have the tank inside, I'm considering running the coolant loop next to the water tank, having it in contact with the tank - I've seen this done from one of the videos on rixens site with the pro RV builders - they run it underneath the van in a custom groove in the water tank.

my question is... 1) does it seem warranted ? and 2) with the coolant loop tubing, do I risk too much heat against the water tank, and melting it ? it'll be the typical plastic rv water tank, not metal...

thanks!

One disadvantage of using an air / coolant exchanger for protecting the water tanks is the need to completely isolate the space around the tanks. Plus, the fan is more prone to failure that a tubing approach carrying coolant. I'd vote for the tube heating approach.

Regarding your tubing size, I had a couple of radiant installers tell me that it would e better to go with 3/8 or 1/2 inch tubing. But none of them could explain why. I choose to go with all 5/8 tubing for radiant heat (in order to reduce the pressure head needed to move fluid in the tube, and plumbed the main lines between the D5 and the inside heat exchanger / radiant loop with 3/4 heater hose. I can't prove that my system works better with the larger tubing, than the recommended smaller diameter tubing, but using the 5/8 Onix radiant tubing worked out well since it is one inch in diameter, and my radiant heat floor channels were exactly an inch deep. If you are planning to use PEX tubing, be aware that it expands / contracts a lot while heating, and can create a noisy heating system. The Onix tubing is more expensive, but you don't need much of it, and it is very easy to install in that it kinks much less than PEX tubing in the radiant heat application.

If you mix metal tubing for under van heating of your tanks, with Onix (or PEX) tubing inside for heat, you will need a separate control circuit for the heat for the tanks to avoid over heating the van interior. You may already be planning that -- if so, please disregard this redundant comment.

You will be very happy with the D5 -- it works great -- as long as you either stay below 5,000 altitude, or use the Espar Altimeter sensor if you are above 5000 Ft altitude.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Coolant temps should not exceed 200F with the rixen system. Plastic tanks are PE or PP which melts at over 300F, nothing to be worried about.

If your interior will be heated, and the tank is insulated from any exterior sheetmetal, you should be fine without a heating loop. If you are concerned about freezing lines or tanks, just make sure the cabinet where the tank is mounted has sufficient ventilation area to the main cabin. This will keep it warm.

 

[GeorgeRa]

Wish I was at the last stage as you are.
The plus-nut tool you have is what I use. Works great and fits in tight locations.

It is nice to be close to the finish line, only a few big items left: Morningstar 300W almost done, replacing the factory window with the RV one, and installation of the D5 – design done and all materials purchased. The plus-nut tool I needed for the limited room installation of the D5.

George.

 

[GeorgeRa]

Looks great! The bed release handle turned out nice. Printed templates are handy. Just take time to verify an x & y dimension to make sure the printer is actually printing at exactly 100%.

Yes, the bed latch handle came out very nicely, thank you for the CNC work. Regarding using printed templates you actually led me to use this technique, simple, fast and accurate, thank you again.

Cheers,

George.

 

[casmith32]

thanks - good to know! I plan on adding thinsulate on the wheel wells, and making sure no sheet metal is exposed to the compartment. Maybe even add some insulation around the tank - but probably overkill. I'll ensure adequate ventilation and insulation in the cabinet where all this will sit... There will be a main ventilation path from the rear of the cabinet toward the front of the wheel well where the blower fan will sit. So that should create a good cross flow of warm air.

I'm more concerned for the times I may be in the mountains or ski resort while traveling and don't wanna come back to frozen pipes, etc; In that case I presume I'll have the heater, etc just left on at a minimal temp...

now on to find a good placement for the rixen reservoir tank and coolant pump. Wanted to locate it under the hood where the aux battery goes, but man it'd really tight - that reservoir is big! But seems like the best place for it.

Coolant temps should not exceed 200F with the rixen system. Plastic tanks are PE or PP which melts at over 300F, nothing to be worried about.

If your interior will be heated, and the tank is insulated from any exterior sheetmetal, you should be fine without a heating loop. If you are concerned about freezing lines or tanks, just make sure the cabinet where the tank is mounted has sufficient ventilation area to the main cabin. This will keep it warm.