EGR cooler cleaning, was pretty easy

PLUMMER

New member
I did my cooler a couple days ago on my 07. It was 99% plugged, shining a bright light thru the opposite end only revealed 4 pin holes that I could see thru. Bypass tube going to turbo was very clean tho, everything was dry thankfully and high air pressure from a 1/8" id tube connected to the air chuck blew out alot. I will attribute the dry and easy clean up to using the Redline for the last 8-10K miles, atleast thats my opinion. I did notice the back end at the bypass valve was very powdery and much easier to clean with air only. Closer to the EGR valve was caked and more difficult to clean up. I will recommend trying to clean as much as you can with air, and slight tapping with a solid mallet or ball peen hammer just enuff to make it ring, makes alot of small chunks fall out. I made up a 6" piece of PVC with cap to fill up with simple green full strength to soak in, takes 2 gallons to fully submerge. A piece of 5" SDR might work, make sure you seal off the coolant openings. After 90 minutes of soak, ( 30 minutes would've done about the same) I flushed with a hose and spray. Then tried some fresh simple green and it only removed a little more. At this time you could see thru about 75% or better. Then I switched to Krud Kutter which I used for grill or stove cleaning ( great stuff for soot). Its very safe and biodegradable , at this point I was just spraying it into the fins and letting it run thru. A LOT of black came out, so I kept spraying till the color became light brown to clear. Did a final flush with plenty of water and then the air nozzle again. Then the light test and you can see very clearly the details of the fins all the way thru. Small pieces will show up easy. Total clean time about 3 hours for the cooler itself, but it came out shinny as new. I also cleaned both ends, EGR housing and bypass housing. Pulling the bypass valve and around the valve flap was the only semi difficult spot, but what was tuff was very thin not caked. The only thing I did not remove was the back pressure sensor, I thought it was a coolant temp sensor, my mistake. I was surprised how easy simple green cleaned everything up perfect with just a toothbrush. No hard scrubbing at all. I would say that the difficulty level on this is pretty low. ( I was able to do it) Took me about 4-5 hours at my leisure. Soak time is the majority and being very thorough. I would say its like doing your EGR valve 3 times in a row. Its only 12 bolts to remove plus 4 for the EGR ( nothing tricky and requires no cussing), about 1 quart of coolant comes out and you can catch almost all of that pretty easy , ( just think about what order to pull each hose off to put in your catch can). A "Gear Wrench" (brand) ratchet box end wrench 8mm and 10mm is very helpful for tight areas and perfect fit for those male torx bolts. If anyone buys the female torx bits, I highly recommend 1/4" drive as 3/8" drive sockets are too fat for many of the bolts ( very tight areas). Atleast my black snap-on ones are and most of these bolt torque specs are in in/lbs. I would not remove the front bolt on the EGR housing facing or closest to the radiator, it should be left in while removing and reinstalling the cooler, as its too long to pull out without removing fan shroud. The exhaust bypass tube connected to the bypass housing going to turbo was very clean and so was the exhaust temp sensor in my case. I also would recommend inspecting with a plumbers inspection camera or equivalent via the EGR hole every 30K miles maybe less. Both of my cameras fit good enuff to see the fins. Both cameras were the Rigid brand, micro see snake, and mini inspection camera. Color view helps. Van ran very noticeably better.

I unfortunately got my hopes up real high after seeing how plugged it was, I thought for sure this would be the fix all for my truck. The best thing is I know how clean everything is and I know my EGR system is in like new condition and have eliminated this component from being a problem in diagnosis. I will suspect many others will greatly benefit from this, or even solve their problems. The EGR alone is not enuff.
I have plenty of pictures, but not sure if I will be able to resize them to be usable, will see... it added quite a bit of snap and power back to the van. No more hesitation or jerky situations.
 
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220629

Well-known member
I did my cooler a couple days ago on my 07....
I would not remove the front bolt on the EGR housing facing or closest to the radiator, it should be left in while removing and reinstalling the cooler, as its too long to pull out without removing fan shroud. ...I have plenty of pictures, but not sure if I will be able to resize them to be usable, will see...
Very nice Write-up, maybe it should be in that Forum section? Who would expect it to be that plugged up?:thinking:

I have gained access to some fasteners with out moving plastic shrouds by just drilling an access port with a hole saw or step drill bit. If it matters I cover the hole with aluminum tape. Often it's not necessary to do that. I don't know if that would apply in this situation, but may be worth consideration. Thanks for the detail. vic
 
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PLUMMER

New member
Very nice Write-up, maybe it should be in that Forum section? Who would expect it to be that plugged up?:thinking:

I have gained access to some fasteners with out moving plastic shrouds by just drilling an access port with a hole saw or step drill bit. If it matters I cover the hole with aluminum tape. Often it's not necessary to do that. I don't know if that would apply in this situation, but may be worth consideration. Thanks for the detail. vic
NO THANK YOU Vic, for all the helpful info and tips. Thanks for moving the thread, didn't think of this. The more I tear into this van the more I like it. I am very thankful its so easy to work on, as long as your not in a hurry sometimes. Could I email some pics to someone that can post them. I am unable to or know how to resize the pics on my mac. Thanks
 
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PLUMMER

New member
TRY THIS photobucket link http://s1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd497/PLUMMER47/SPRINTER 2007 SERVICE/

Another huge bonus here is the money savings, I did not see anything that was worn or even might have to be replaced. Maybe and only maybe the bypass valve actuator. So by cleaning instead of replacing you save a couple bucks....
Cooler = $700.11
bypass body= $460.40 A.k.a. egr change-over valve / EGR cooler end housing
bypass valve = $?????
EGR temp sensor = $152.92
exhaust temp sensor= $152.92
Back pressure sensor = $ ???
Piece of mind knowing your emissions is spotless and in good working order from DIY.... ( insert your value here)

It would be nice to add some info on testing specifications for the sensors you'll have apart or easy access to during this procedure.
 
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PLUMMER

New member
No, I don't bother , time is too precious. This is the only site I'm on that I can't upload them.

bypass valve is closed or blocking the cooling fins, so it flows thru the side bypass tube. Even when it opens, it looked as if it flows thru both fins and side tube.
 

PLUMMER

New member
Update: Milage report after DPF, EGR, & EGR cooler cleaning.

60 mph cruise control flat highway speed =19.2mpg .....before cleaning 18.9mpg
temp 98* and a 10-15 mph head wind
55mph cruise control exact same road = 26.1mpg ...... before cleaning 22.1 mpg
temp 82* slight tail breeze to no wind
50mph no cruise control same road =25.6 mpg before cleaning 23.2 mpg
temp 94* side wind 5-10mph
50mph cruise control same road 24.3mpg before cleaning no data

Recently I have had a couple minor issues, thus all the cleaning and what not. So I don't know how reliable this data is. I reset the milage after I was up to speed and locked the cruise on. The final # usually settled in after 4-5 miles and didn't change but a tenth or 2 for the rest of the trip. It does not include any stop & go or coasting off the freeway. Also I have no data for wind or temp before the cleaning, but it was from this year after the winter blend fuel was gone.
 

PLUMMER

New member
Update with more data:

65mph Cruise control = 21.7 mpg before cleaning 20.9 mpg , heavy side wind, 93* air temp

70 mph cruise control = 18.9 mpg for the first 20 miles then it jumped up to 19.2 mpg for the rest of the trip. I don't know for sure but it might have been regenerating. 93* air temp and heavy side wind. test done the same way as above. I'm gonna have to get some more guages or a monitor to check data more accurately. before cleaning 17.6 - 17.8 mpg.
 
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Hey Plummer I want to do the same service to my emissions only (not tranny). How many gaskets or parts will I need before tearing into this thing?
 

PLUMMER

New member
Sorry I didn't catch your post sooner. Parts required NONE......And don't think you need to put any gasket sealer on the gaskets that are there. They are just flat metal gaskets that seal perfectly. Don't know why but they do. I did use permatex on one at the EGR valve....BIG mistake. It was VERY hard to impossible to get it apart at the next cleaning. I will say this I have payed very close attention to my EGR system and there is not one leak. Zero signs of soot blowby. I did torque all bolts evenly.
Sorry about the tranny pictures in that group. Next time I do it I will try to take better shots and just the EGR system.
 

jhamlin

New member
Hey Plummer, I really appreciate you taking the time to post your experience in cleaning your EGR cooler, as I think I'm up to doing the same with my 2007. My service dealer says it's throwing codes involving both the cooler and DPF unit, with most of them being the cooler. I have 345K on the van (no complaints), but it goes into limp mode several times 0ver a 1,000+ mile week of expediting. Question: what do you mean when you say you "used Redline for 8-10K miles" before you did the clean-out? Is this some type of additive? Hoping to jump into this project before it gets too cold up here in Michigan!

Jim
 

vitola231

New member
Hi Plummer in Michigan, have a question for you. I have boiler company in London Ontario and noticed someone in USA can buy a Viessmann boiler, say from PEX supply online at what my cost is up here. I was wondering if one day I could get you to do me the big favor of getting a price on one in Michigan if I get you a model number? Was in China last year, you wouldn't believe what the same copper fittings retail for their, think thousands of percent mark up.
 

220629

Well-known member
...Question: what do you mean when you say you "used Redline for 8-10K miles" before you did the clean-out? Is this some type of additive?
As nobody has answered...

Redline does make fuel additives. I find that a wide selection of their products are not common on our local shelves. Richard Altered Sprinter likes certain Redline products.

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=11

...Hoping to jump into this project before it gets too cold up here in Michigan!

Jim
Watching the weather it seems like you may have missed that window for the near future. :bash:
vic
 

vitola231

New member
Hi Plummer, thanks for post. Tacked it on Sunday, not greatest thing I have ever done but not so bad. WOW, was that sucker dirty, soot just kept coming out. Safe to say that it wasn't cooling, guess that pressure sensor is just to tell computer EGR valve has failed. My bypass pipe was even filthy. Hay, did you remove the little pipe from the EGR valve that connects into air intake? It has two flanges but the pipe itself bends and inserts into intake, mine had 1/4 inch of black sooty goo that I scooped out with my finger, what's up with that? Did you have goo?
 

PLUMMER

New member
Yeah check out the RL-3 which has a bit more than the RL-2, but both are very good. I'm still up in the air on whats better the Howe's or the Redline, but I will say there isn't anything else that close to these 2.( i favor Howe's for my area and local fuel brands, marathon,mobil,shell) I haven't tried the amalgamated tho, but tried & tested pretty much everything else. Goo is bad real bad, you want powder dry soot. I didn't have any goo, it was all pretty much dry. Sorry I haven't checked back in here, been real busy, now I wait to get paid, story of my life being a contractor.

Have to clean from the intake all the way to the cooler bypass valve. Don't know torque specs off hand, just feel the threads memory. I guess from experience.I didn't have specs when I did mine for much of it, but I have no leaks and did not use any sealant.

I feel for stateside fuel, using an additive will just lengthen the time between cleanings. But it seems every 10-15K is what it needs by the way mine looks, to maintain optimum economy. 50/50 city /highway driving.

As far as the boilers go, i believe anything I get will not have the canadian standards approvals to meet your codes. If ours dont have the ASTM, ASSME, NFPA, AGA labels they dont pass , and insurance wont cover if there is a problem. The home depot here sells/or has sold the canadian labeled bosch tankless that runs into this problem. Eye opener for the homeowners that purchase them. Not too many viessman or Burnham dealers anymore. Alot are switching to the dust collecting Buderus, why I dont know since they rarely sell in our area.
 
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