Orton DIY - Misc.

[Graphite Dave]

Most likely was a lack of skill by the operator. Penn is much more forgiving due to a larger head diameter and the 4 legs stick out about 1/4" on each side of the cylinder after it has been tightened. Hole diameter does not have to be very close. I think the tool you used is better than the one I have. The allen wrench would hold the rivnut in the hole for overhead installation. With my tool it uses two box wrenches so upward pressure is not possible.

 

[dickknapp]

D_bertko, do you have a source for your rivnut tool? Did you groove or notch the holes to keep rivnut e from turning?
Thanks to both you and Davd for tips on rivnuts. I'm noodling out overhead cabinets.
Dick

 

[d_bertko]

D_bertko, do you have a source for your rivnut tool? Did you groove or notch the holes to keep rivnut e from turning?
Thanks to both you and Davd for tips on rivnuts. I'm noodling out overhead cabinets.
Dick

I couldn't find my Web source for my 1/4"-20 rivnut tool. This site seems to have the same tool. Note that their big kit also offers other sizes than 1/4"-20 and they also have plusnut kits. I found the 1/4"-20 rivnut size was sufficient for all my needs. Another recent post of mine replied about the correct Marson grip range.

http://www.cardinalcomponents.com/rivnutkits.html

I did see the grooving hint but did not do that with mine. I'd guess a tight tolerance hole size must be a secondary help. Not a single rivnut has spun loose over seven years. But that is generally not a problem in that anything that needs repeated attachment happens in the attached L-track layer. I have taken almost all of the L-track with rivnuts off once or twice over the years for wiring and other improvements so the rivnuts can stand at some number of loosening/tightening cycles without a problem.

Dan

 

[Graphite Dave]

Motorola LapDock:

The LapDock 100 looks like a laptop computer but uses my Motorola Droid phone for the processor. Just plug phone into the device. LapDock has 2 USB ports, 10" screen, and an additional battery to extend run times. Thumb drive and USB mouse work. The major advantage to using the LapDock is the internet connection when traveling. Either WiFi or the phone connection can be used to connect. Anyplace I have a Verizon signal, I have internet access. Connect time is charged to your data usage which for me is unlimited. Much better than hunting for WiFi or purchasing a mobile hotspot which costs $30.00/month. Unfortunately when Google purchased Motorola they stopped production of these units. They are still available on EBay etc. for about $80.00 new. They originally cost about $240.00. You have to have a compatible phone. You have to type slow on the keyboard or you get ahead of the processor. Other than that it has worked well for my usage.

 

[Evil Patrick]

Dave,

You may have already explained this somewhere, but can you please provide some details to how you've attached 80/20 to the walls and ceiling? I'll make a leap and guess that you first installed some rivnuts in the channels in the body. Did you use "L" brackets; with one bolt going through one leg of the L-bracket and into the rivnut and another through the other leg of the L-bracket and into the 80/20? (No sense in me reinventing the wheel here, right?) Maybe you had multiple solutions, depending on the requirements?



Thanks in advance,

--Patrick

 

[Graphite Dave]

Search for "ortonDIY - overhead cabinets". Do not do it as I did it. See post # 26 for how I would do it next time. Major mistake to bolt the 80/20 directly to the Sprinter steel body. The 80/20 is a great conductor of heat and cold. It just bupasses any insulation you have installed. The aluminum just becomes the same temperature as the steel body. All 80/20 needs to have a thermal break between the steel and aluminum. A wood block or plywood will work. One bolt bolts wood the to Sprinter and second bolt bolts aluminum to the wood. Wood between the two bolts. No direct metal to metal connection.

 

[Evil Patrick]

Good tip on the insulated attachment points! I'll probably use strips of wood that span from body rib to body rib just to add stability. Probably add fender washers to keep bolt heads from "wallowing" into the wood over time.

Thanks again, Dave!

 

[GeorgeRa]

Search for "ortonDIY - overhead cabinets". Do not do it as I did it. See post # 26 for how I would do it next time. Major mistake to bolt the 80/20 directly to the Sprinter steel body. The 80/20 is a great conductor of heat and cold. It just bupasses any insulation you have installed. The aluminum just becomes the same temperature as the steel body. All 80/20 needs to have a thermal break between the steel and aluminum. A wood block or plywood will work. One bolt bolts wood the to Sprinter and second bolt bolts aluminum to the wood. Wood between the two bolts. No direct metal to metal connection.

I am thinking about using fiberglass plate or angle to insulate the 80/20 frame from the chassis. The design is not a simple one because I will be attaching overhead cabinets on top of the factory roof liner. The attachment brackets will have to protrude through the liner somehow. I will post final design when ready.

George.

 

[Graphite Dave]

Leveling:

A way to determine how many Lynx plastic leveling blocks are required to level van. My van has a 144" wheelbase. Made a wood block that is 1/16 scale for the wheelbase and tread of the van. 144/16 = 9" long. Did the same for the tread width. The plastic blocks are 1" thick so I used 1/16" thick flat washers. Wood block has a two direction bubble level screwed to the top. I put wood block on the sink counter and then add washers to the corners until the block is level. The number of washers tells me how many Lynx levelers are required to level van.

 

[Graphite Dave]

Sink Funnel:

I have to use the sink when brushing my teeth. Did not like to spit in the same sink I use to prepare food. Cut the end off a funnel so spit went directly down the drain. Problem was the funnel would fall over. Cut a PVC washer and glued it to the funnel to keep funnel standing up.

 

[WPJ]

Leveling:

A way to determine how many Lynx plastic leveling blocks are required to level van. My van has a 144" wheelbase. Made a wood block that is 1/16 scale for the wheelbase and tread of the van. 144/16 = 9" long. Did the same for the tread width. The plastic blocks are 1" thick so I used 1/16" thick flat washers. Wood block has a two direction bubble level screwed to the top. I put wood block on the sink counter and then add washers to the corners until the block is level. The number of washers tells me how many Lynx levelers are required to level van.

I love the van on Lego blocks, can you make me a set

 

[Graphite Dave]

Buy them at Walmart. I also made a plywood bases so I can use the blocks onder the jack if the ground is soft. Plywood has a dowell in the center to fit in the center hole of the Lynx blocks. One on top of the stack and one on the bottom.

 

[DHowie]

Leveling:

A way to determine how many Lynx plastic leveling blocks are required to level van. My van has a 144" wheelbase. Made a wood block that is 1/16 scale for the wheelbase and tread of the van. 144/16 = 9" long. Did the same for the tread width. The plastic blocks are 1" thick so I used 1/16" thick flat washers. Wood block has a two direction bubble level screwed to the top. I put wood block on the sink counter and then add washers to the corners until the block is level. The number of washers tells me how many Lynx levelers are required to level van.

Smart!!!! Thanks.

 

[Graphite Dave]

The wood block dimensions should be:

Width = Sprinter track"/16 + diameter of washers.

Length = Sprinter wheelbase"/16 + diameter of washers.

Lynx blocks are 1" thick so at 1/16 scale the washers need to be 1/16" thick.

If you put the blocks in front of the wheels, measure from centerline of the block stack to the center of the wheel. That is the distance you need to drive forward. I made indicator with a 1/2" dia. dowel stuck in a v-belt pulley with the dowel height about to bottom of drivers entry step. Place dowel indicator vertical on ground forward of the step the measured distance from a reference mark on the door step. Drive forward with drivers door open until dowel lines up with the reference mark on the step and you are centered on the Lynx spacers.

No guessing about number of spacers or how far to drive forward to be centered. Works great.

 

[Graphite Dave]

Changed from 4" wide step to 6" wide. Top plate is 6" x 10" x 1/4" and bottom clamp plate is 4" x 4 1/2" with three 5/16 x 18NC x 3 1/4" bolts. Simple rear step below the door you open first. 6" wide step is much easier to use.

 

[hein]

My NCV3 van has a step bumper but I still use a stool as an intermediate step. Lord know how many times I've been in/out during the conversion so far. I will be adding a step to the bottom of my custom hitch cross tube someday (soon) . Thanks for the innovative connection.

 

[napo]

Cabinet Latches:

Originally had pushbutton latches that were difficult to open and I broke several forcing drawers to open. Maybe a different brand would have been better. Changed to Southco "pull ring" latches. They work much better because the pawl is pulled down when you pull the ring instead of using a spring loaded ramp with the pushbutton latches. I used the medium size M1-63 (for 12 to 17mm panel thickness) black plastic latches. Ordered from D.R. Roberts Comany for about $11.00 ea.

Graphite Dave: I've got to say, you're a big asset to this forum! I've been reading non-STOP for my 2nd build and you really got allot of things figured out and always posting to help others. Thank you!

 

[Graphite Dave]

Thanks. The forum was very helpful to me when I was trying to figure out my conversion so now only trying to reciprocate. Working on the design for a second conversion. So far change/improvement list is at 94 items. This conversion does work very well for my use and I am still learning each time I use it. If I can be of any help let me know. I did find that attending the NW Sprinterfest before I started the conversion was well worth the travel time. I expect to be there again this year.

 

[napo]

Cabinet

.

Dave, what type of wood and stain did you use on this cabinet and do you have a write up on this cabinet build? Looks good! It looks like you have a dual hinged slide out on the side, curious?

 

[pfflyer]

Dave, what type of wood and stain did you use on this cabinet and do you have a write up on this cabinet build? Looks good! It looks like you have a dual hinged slide out on the side, curious?

Also is it looks like solid wood. Any problems with wide changes in temp/ humidity?