Rear Door License Plate Nutsert

big_d

New member
I'm very sorry, but I don't believe I have the invoice for this anymore. We keep a binder containing all maintenance records for each vehicle, and we give the binder to the purchaser of the vehicle.

I've searched the In box on my office computer and I found numerous emails between the gal that orders parts and myself addressing this issue, but none of them contain the part number.

Looking at the drawing, I believe the part number you listed in your post is correct. It should be cheap enough that placing a speculative order would be a reasonable plan.

When I reinstalled these in my sprinter, I primed the edges of the hole beforehand.
 
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djc126

Member
Hi. Have you tried going to NAPA?

A Dodge parts guy told me they should have rivnuts in stock. They may even have something like the plastic insert you're looking for.

I left the original license frame in vs replacing it - despite it rusting on the back side.

Regards,
 

hulagun

Haulin' A** since 1974
An M6 nut-sert would be an ideal solution, especially if you dab some sealant on it at install. The factory inserts (#26 in the diagram) in my 2005 T1N were a small nylon plug designed to accept a small coarse screw. They are undersized for the task.

I removed them and attached the license plate with four 1/4-20 stainless steel screws. They are held in place with nylock nuts and stainless steel washers. Neoprene washers under the steel ones keep water out of the door.

A flat nylon pry bar (available very inexpensively at better tool sellers) is best for popping off the door panel and attaching plugs. This gives you great access to the license lamps and inside the door itself so you can attach your license plate. It's a good idea to make sure this area is clean and dry and no rust is getting a toehold.

Hope this helps! :thumbup:
 

surlyoldbill

New member
Harbor Freight sells a rivet gun that also installs rivnuts, as well as several size rivenuts. I used them on my 1961 Corvair Rampside and 1963 Greenbrier for a few things, and they worked great.
 

hulagun

Haulin' A** since 1974
Harbor Freight sells a rivet gun that also installs rivnuts, as well as several size rivenuts. I used them on my 1961 Corvair Rampside and 1963 Greenbrier for a few things, and they worked great.
Good tip Surly. My :2cents: is that the HF riv-nut "gun" only works well with riv-nuts from HF. HF riv-nuts are soft (and only available in SAE US thread pitches). OK for low stress applications... then I ran out of riv-nuts.

I bought more riv-nuts at a local hardware store (not Harbor Freight) and the new riv-nuts are much nicer quality and also a harder alloy. The HF riv-nut tool won't compress them fully before the flimsy tool starts to compress itself. Been shopping for an affordable sturdier riv-nut installation tool with both US and metric tips... no luck so far...
 

surlyoldbill

New member
A Greenbriar? Now there was a vehicle!

Icarus
The HF rivnuts are a little soft, maybe the parts used to insert them could be modified for a sturdier tool? I haven't had a problem with mine, but they are only used for future removal of panels, and I'm not removing/replacing the bolts on a regular basis. It's possible they would eventually spin loose if you used them a lot. The Plusnuts supplied by Yakima for their roof mounted rails look like the heavy duty alternative. I've lazily tried to source where Yakima gets them, but no luck in my 5 minute search. :idunno:
 

Attachments

autostaretx

Erratic Member
I've lazily tried to source where Yakima gets them, (Plusnuts)
PlusNuts are made by the same company that makes brand-name RivNuts
Photo: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=142059&highlight=plusnut#post142059

There is also a very simple insertion tool (a hardened bolt with a shaped cylindrical "washer")... running the bolt into the nut (the cylinder keeps the nut from spinning) and tightening down sets the nut.

One easy source: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=i8cqfi
Here in Seattle, many "industrial" hardware stores (Tacoma Screw, for example) may have them.
Graingers does not carry "PlusNut", but they do have "flanged rivet nut" in both steel and aluminum.

--dick
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
Or for a one-off fitment just make a tool from flat bar with an appropriate sized hole / an M5 or M6 bolt, whatever you need / a couple of washers and a drop of oil to lube it all. The ribbed ones seem ok but they do have their limitations.
 

hulagun

Haulin' A** since 1974
The ribbed ones seem ok but they do have their limitations.
That's what SHE said! :lol:

Like you said, for a few riv-nuts that should be OK (especially if you have an 18v Makita torque driver to spin it with) but for larger jobs you are gonna want "the gun". :thumbup:
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
I saw someone mentioned pulling off the inner trim panel. Were I to do that I would just use a bolt, washer, rubber seal washer, washer, lock washer, and then a nut to stick a bolt out through the hole from the inside like a stud for the plate to mount to. The washers and nut between the license plate and body add a bit of spacing which may actually be of some benefit to reduce wear on the paint. That method is far from OEM though. FWIW. vic
 

hulagun

Haulin' A** since 1974
I saw someone mentioned pulling off the inner trim panel.
LOL that someone was me... and you basically just repeated my whole post.... :rad: Glad you approve, it does make for a clean installation. Guess I *should have* posted a photo.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
LOL that someone was me... and you basically just repeated my whole post.... :rad: Glad you approve, it does make for a clean installation. Guess I *should have* posted a photo.
Oops. Sorry. I didn't interpret from the post that the bolts were inserted from the inside. I think it's a better solution than the nutserts. Some unconcerned idiot is always forcing the wrong sized fastener into the nutserts and screwing up the thread just to get the vehicle off the lot. vic.
 

hulagun

Haulin' A** since 1974
Vic, sorry I was unclear. My installation used 4 stainless allen button head screws with nylock nuts and stainless and neoprene washers on the back, WITHIN the door itself. This looks really clean and has the added benefit of preventing plate theft. :shifty: (I'll post a photo to this thread at some point but lately my computer isnt letting me upload photos or lengthy typed messages. Time to update my OS I guess...)
 

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