Driveshaft Carrier Bearing R+R

I just purchased a 04 with 143k and found the boot missing but don't want to replace the whole thing. Does anyone know of a size or place I can purchase just the joint boot? Great write up!

Thanks!

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Scottv125

New member
Here goes my first post on this site!

I cross-referenced the part from europarts SD and found the entire repair kit, on ebay, for $90.

Here's a link:

Because ebay links dont last forever, here are the part numbers on the box:
Lemforder part number: 25240 01
What i believe to be the Dealer part number: 5104574aa/9034100010

If it's years down the road and the ebay link doesn't work, a google search of those two part numbers should help those find the center support bearing.
 

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Scottv125

New member
I completed this job and wanted to share my photos.

For your average shade tree mechanic, this job was not bad. Following this post, I completed the job, in my driveway, in 2 hours. The hardest part was hammering the new one on with rubber mallet because I just wasnt sure how hard to hit it.
Ended up getting frustrated and bashed the sh*t out of it, still using the rubber mallet, and everything ended up fine.
I used a cordless jig saw w/ wood blade to cut rubber of old bearing out.
I read here the 15mm drive shaft bolts torque to 52ft-lbs and the 18mm bearing bolts were 72ft-lbs, so that's what Itorqued them too
I did not have the special hose-clamp tool, so I got innovative and hammered 2 screw drivers into it (see photo). Worked like a charm.
It's also confirmed the above Lemforder part fits a 2006 2500 T1N.

This bearing quieted some of my noise, now onto the terrible rear end whining noise.IMG_6269.JPGIMG_6267.JPGIMG_6266.JPGIMG_6268.JPG
 
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anorth

New member
Great instructions! I just replaced one of the carrier bearings on my 2004 158" WB sprinter van yesterday. Your guidance really helped. Thanks!

Replacing this bearing probably helped some, but I still have sound coming from the rear differential bearing. I think the pinion bearing in my differential is wearing out.IMG_7128.jpgIMG_7131.jpgIMG_7148.jpgIMG_7152.jpgIMG_7160.jpg
 
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Sorry if this question seems basic but I've never worked on a driveshaft before.
The middle boot cover for my carrier bearing on my 158 tore but I don't have any other symptoms.
Driveshaft looks clean and my T1N is a Florida van with 160 miles so I'm not worried about road salt.
The boot and clamps are available as separate parts, Is it possible to remove the bracket and detach the driveshaft in place for a quick replacement of the boot, or I'm looking at bringing the whole thing down which in that case I might as well just get the complete kit and would get it done at a shop.
On that note has anyone found a split boot I can just replace without having to remove anything.
Thank you.
 
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mbradleycu

2004 T1N 2500 140"
Sorry if this question seems basic but I've never worked on a driveshaft before.
The middle boot cover for my carrier bearing on my 158 tore but I don't have any other symptoms.
Driveshaft looks clean and my T1N is a Florida van with 160 miles so I'm not worried about road salt.
The boot and clamps are available as separate parts, Is it possible to remove the bracket and detach the driveshaft in place for a quick replacement of the boot, or I'm looking at bringing the whole thing down which in that case I might as well just get the complete kit and would get it done at a shop.
On that note has anyone found a split boot I can just replace without having to remove anything.
Thank you.
I’m just a newbie about this too (also with a torn boot), but I think replacing the boot requires taking off the driveshaft. You need to get one side open to slip the boot on. You don’t have to cut off the rubber and punch out / replace the bearing, but you probably should. Taking off the driveshaft is about half the work anyway. Plus, who knows what damage is under there without the boot. I’m lining up to replace mine soon.
 

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
I did this R&R. I made many mistakes, and I now think what I did was likely unnecessary. For what it is worth:

1) While I suspected differential bearing whine, I thought that drive shaft bearing could be an issue. Why? 220,000 miles, and [mistake] I looked at the support bearing under the van without a good light. I saw light through and between the bracket and the bearing and jumped to the conclusion that the bearing had separated from its rubber support. Not so - If I had closely looked I would have seen that is the design.
Screenshot 2021-12-18 091904.jpg
2) I have edited ExpCourier's excellent write up with a safety heads up. Mistake - I did not chock the wheels all around and I had the van in PARK. In PARK, the drive train is loaded. When I dropped the drive shaft, the van moved. Put the van in NEUTRAL to start this project. In NEUTRAL, the driveshaft is unloaded and the transmission flange will rotate freely, making reinstallation easy.
3) I used crayon to mark the driveshaft at both ends and the middle. Mistake to use crayon, as most of the crayon rubbed off the driveshaft during handling. I should have used something to score the parts - a chisel or engraver. This became a big problem later as my front half of the drive shaft is missing the alignment arrow.
4) Mistake: I disconnected the support bearing, then front flange, then the rear flange. When the rear flange was disconnected, the rear part of the driveshaft dropped, the front half went up on the fulcrum of the safety bracket and killed the Espar pump to the left of the transmission. I should have had some support under the shaft to catch it when it dropped. It is not possible for one person to be at both ends at the same time and with tools in hand. Who knows what that pump part number is.
5) Note sure if a mistake or not. I rotated the support bearing to see if I felt anything. Nothing. But the bearing had horizontal movement that the replacement bearing did not. So I proceeded to R&R.

When I reassembled the driveshaft halves is when I noticed no alignment arrow. WTF. Alright, approximate with the crayon marks on the flange ends. Damn - rubbed off. Now I have a vibration around 55-60mph not previously there [thus not likely worn universals]. Only 20+ possible repositions to restore its balance.

On another note, the drive shaft support bearing has many suppliers. Most look identical. Further, it turns out that not only are there multiple Mercedes part numbers for it, the T1N seems to share the part with the Volkswagen LT. As for mine, I ordered a Lemforder. The unopened box had the part number I designated, but the identical looking part inside had a different number. Upon researching that number, it showed up as appropriate for the T1N,
 
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3Play

Well-known member
I think it was a good idea to replace at 220k, most of my friends with T1Ns had to replace between 220k and 260k.
Also, the bearing is not that hard of a press fit. I was getting ready to find a press, or cut the bearing off off with a zip disk, but decided to check with
a BFH (Big F&^K$@% Hammer) and a scrap of angle iron. I beat it off the shaft without much difficulty. Pounded the new one on with a dead blow and used the old dust covers to pound past the shaft end. Not that tight of a fit. Also, most sealed bearings can be regreased by just carefully prying out the dust covers, rinsing with solvent and repacking. If done before they make noise, they will have a second life.
On the older Mercedes forums, the general advice on bearings is to only replace if the bearing is bad because the older stock bearings are far better than anything made today. I don't think anything Mercedes after 1990 has the same quality....
I did the whole thing in a parking lot in front of my friends storage facility in about 75 minutes.
 

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
Update with more information:

Mistake 6) Schindler added to my list of mistakes.
Shortly after I replace the drive shaft support bearing, I had Schindler Automotive rebuild the differential. When I picked up the van, Don told me that I should have looked more closely at the drive shaft universal joints. I should have flexed each of them over their full range. If there is a "bump" or "flat spot" anywhere along the range of movement, the universal joint is on it way out. In my case, he found that both directions of the last universal joint had flat spots. After I got the van back, I replaced the drive shaft. I found that all the joints had at least one flat spot. The joint at the transmission flange also had slack movement. So - if looking at a drive shaft support bearing replacement, it would be best to drop the drive shaft first and look and the universal joints before purchasing a drive shaft bearing and doing an R&R on an OEM drive shaft that might need replacing. Almost all replacement drive shafts come with a drive shaft support bearing already installed.
 
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Jolene8690

New member
Just installed our new carrier bearings onto the drive shaft following all the steps and advice from this thread. Thanks to all that contributed. However we noticed they seem a lot tighter. Is this normal? Should I be concerned? Do they loosen up after driving around? short video for reference
 

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