Door stopper stuck in open position.

wildimaginations

Wild Imaginations
One day, my sprinter driver door opened normally but heard a clicking sound and then the door wouldn't close at all. I had to disassemble the door and loosen the bolt holding the stopper to the door to get it to close. Replaced the door stop assembly and thought you Sprinter owners might find this information useful. This part costs me $75.00.




 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
Is that part found on the forward part of the driver door (hinged to the vehicle), or rear part of the driver door (which latches and locks to keep the door closed).

When people type "door stop," I see rubber wedge that goes in a building, to hold a door open.
-Jon
 

CJPJ

2008 3500 170"ext. 3.0 V6 OM642.993
When people type "door stop," I see rubber wedge that goes in a building, to hold a door open.
-Jon
a open "door stop" limiter strap. \:idunno:/
 

HappyFamilyVan

Captain Ahab
One would think that this part is not replaced on many vehicles...my MY 08 had the drivers side replace under warrenty...beginning to question MB quality
 

surlyoldbill

New member
There are a lot of crappy plastic and pot metal parts on these vans, just like about every other vehicle made today. It does provide an opportunity for after-market manufacturers, though, like the Riordan turbo resonator.
 

thlevy48

New member
Just had mine give out today when I was running errands. Luckily, I had enough torx bits with me to remove the bolt on the door.
 

Timburriaquito

New member
This exact problem has just happened to my front passenger door. And I just spent $700 to have the right side sliding door fixed! I'm hoping I can order that part and do it myself. I'll have to look around now to find out how to take off the door panel and get to that part. Any tips?
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
Yes, have a look with the search tool in the blue bar - there are "How To" guides on door card removal for the NCV3.
 

Mib4840

Member
Reviving an old thread. Both of my doors broke the same day and kept getting worse until they both would not close the SAME day. Talk about coincidence.... I knew they were breaking because they kept getting harder and harder to close. I bought the parts preparing for riskydnb to fix them for me. The pair ended up costing me $75 so they have come down from $75 each. It is not as hard to replace as I thought they would be.
1: Buy parts, they are in stock normally because they are a common part that breaks
2: Roll down window
3: Carefully pull door panel plugs out
4: Carefully pull black cover off of the door pull
5: Remove lower panel under door pocket by twisting lock plugs and lifting panel off
6: Remove screws from under plugs, in door pull and very bottom of door panel
7: Carefully remove filler plug over door lock plunger
8: Carefully pry door panel straight out, use trim removal tool if you have it
DO NOT LET PANEL FALL, it still has the door opening cable attached to it, it will break a clip, trust me I learned the hard way
9: Roll the window up. Window down made panel removal easier
10: Unplug window and door lock wiring on rear of panel. One plug on passenger side three on drivers side. Remove door opener cable from handle by UN clipping it and lifting the rod out of the hole in the handle
11: Remove door speaker and un plug wires
12: Use a long reach Torx head to remove bolt from door jamb
13: Use a long reach Torx head to remove 2 bolts sunk in the leading edge of the door, very hard to see, done by feel and try not to drop down inside the door. If you do, find someone with skinny arms to reach down inside to retrieve. Both of my arms ended up with large bruises. A magnet MIGHT work, it did not for me. If you have to reach down in very carefully pull the tape and plastic up to UN cover the openings in the door.
14: Remove the Torx bolt holding the stopper to the body of the door. As you do,this reach up through the speaker hole to grab the stopper and maneuver it out of the front of the door and then out the speaker hole
15: Reverse for installation
DO NOT FORGET TO REPLACE WIRING PLUG/s and DOOR OPENING CABLE
 

MercedesGenIn

Mercedes-Benz Resource
Just adding to an old thread,

I have recently done an autopsy on a few of the failed door checks fitted to NCV3 and Crafter models.

The failure all seems to start with the breaking up of an internal spring that runs through the centre of two others, once fragmented it binds up the other two springs inside the rail position plunger detent assembly (preventing it compressing fully) the increased force needed to close the door (and override the detent) puts strain on the front fixing ears of the check assembly, causing metal hardening and eventual failure.

http://www.mercedes.gen.in/WP35/mercedes-sprinter-vw-crafter-door-check-strap-failure/

Having stripped down a few assemblies now to weld back the mounting ears, I came by a common cause !

All the best
Steve
 
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kendall69

New member
Reviving an old thread. Both of my doors broke the same day and kept getting worse until they both would not close the SAME day. Talk about coincidence.... I knew they were breaking because they kept getting harder and harder to close. I bought the parts preparing for riskydnb to fix them for me. The pair ended up costing me $75 so they have come down from $75 each. It is not as hard to replace as I thought they would be.
1: Buy parts, they are in stock normally because they are a common part that breaks
2: Roll down window
3: Carefully pull door panel plugs out
4: Carefully pull black cover off of the door pull
5: Remove lower panel under door pocket by twisting lock plugs and lifting panel off
6: Remove screws from under plugs, in door pull and very bottom of door panel
7: Carefully remove filler plug over door lock plunger
8: Carefully pry door panel straight out, use trim removal tool if you have it
DO NOT LET PANEL FALL, it still has the door opening cable attached to it, it will break a clip, trust me I learned the hard way
9: Roll the window up. Window down made panel removal easier
10: Unplug window and door lock wiring on rear of panel. One plug on passenger side three on drivers side. Remove door opener cable from handle by UN clipping it and lifting the rod out of the hole in the handle
11: Remove door speaker and un plug wires
12: Use a long reach Torx head to remove bolt from door jamb
13: Use a long reach Torx head to remove 2 bolts sunk in the leading edge of the door, very hard to see, done by feel and try not to drop down inside the door. If you do, find someone with skinny arms to reach down inside to retrieve. Both of my arms ended up with large bruises. A magnet MIGHT work, it did not for me. If you have to reach down in very carefully pull the tape and plastic up to UN cover the openings in the door.
14: Remove the Torx bolt holding the stopper to the body of the door. As you do,this reach up through the speaker hole to grab the stopper and maneuver it out of the front of the door and then out the speaker hole
15: Reverse for installation
DO NOT FORGET TO REPLACE WIRING PLUG/s and DOOR OPENING CABLE
=============

GREAT write up

I will add THIS:
I left the widow UP it have me more room to work.

Make sure you have a long extended magnet to retrieve the screws you WILL DROP, time and time again WAAAAAYYYYYYYY down in the cavern of the door. The only way to get them back is to send down the magnet with a long reach. Trust me it saved my life.

Aslo make sure you put some THREAD LOCK on everything when you install.

One trick, I put some thread lock on the end of the torx wrench (between wrench and screw head, ALOSO on the threads) as I was putting those "hidden" screws in and it stopped them from dropping off for the millionth time. It seems to have made it stick just that much longer in order to get it started BEFORE IF FELL OFF.
 

Rock

Member
This issue(D & P door check failure) is still around . My driver side door opens less than half way because of broken parts in the check device. Went to sprinterparts.com and paid $89 plus shipping for one door check unit p/n 9067200516. Tried to install per the above instructions by Mib4840. Got to the step of removing the body side bolt (T40) and it would not budge. It's either lock-tighted in or rusted. Can't tell. I am in the process of Dremel cutting the bracket that holds the pivot pin so I can get at the bolt head with a HD impact socket after I flood the area with thread deruster.
More to come
 

Rock

Member
Final result on driver side door check replacement:
Finished cutting the bracket to remove the old assembly. I used a 3/8 driver with a socket mounted T40 bit and the body bolt finally came loose. Tough bugger... no rust, only blue thread locker. Since the old bolt Torx hole was chewed up, I used a 8mm hex head bolt to attach the new $90 unit to the door frame.
 

Attachments

digitalfx

New member
@Mib4840 Thanks for your detailed instructions from over 6 years ago! They were extremely helpful.
I was able to quickly fix our stuck door before the rain came :)


Reviving an old thread. Both of my doors broke the same day and kept getting worse until they both would not close the SAME day. Talk about coincidence.... I knew they were breaking because they kept getting harder and harder to close. I bought the parts preparing for riskydnb to fix them for me. The pair ended up costing me $75 so they have come down from $75 each. It is not as hard to replace as I thought they would be.
1: Buy parts, they are in stock normally because they are a common part that breaks
2: Roll down window
3: Carefully pull door panel plugs out
4: Carefully pull black cover off of the door pull
5: Remove lower panel under door pocket by twisting lock plugs and lifting panel off
6: Remove screws from under plugs, in door pull and very bottom of door panel
7: Carefully remove filler plug over door lock plunger
8: Carefully pry door panel straight out, use trim removal tool if you have it
DO NOT LET PANEL FALL, it still has the door opening cable attached to it, it will break a clip, trust me I learned the hard way
9: Roll the window up. Window down made panel removal easier
10: Unplug window and door lock wiring on rear of panel. One plug on passenger side three on drivers side. Remove door opener cable from handle by UN clipping it and lifting the rod out of the hole in the handle
11: Remove door speaker and un plug wires
12: Use a long reach Torx head to remove bolt from door jamb
13: Use a long reach Torx head to remove 2 bolts sunk in the leading edge of the door, very hard to see, done by feel and try not to drop down inside the door. If you do, find someone with skinny arms to reach down inside to retrieve. Both of my arms ended up with large bruises. A magnet MIGHT work, it did not for me. If you have to reach down in very carefully pull the tape and plastic up to UN cover the openings in the door.
14: Remove the Torx bolt holding the stopper to the body of the door. As you do,this reach up through the speaker hole to grab the stopper and maneuver it out of the front of the door and then out the speaker hole
15: Reverse for installation
DO NOT FORGET TO REPLACE WIRING PLUG/s and DOOR OPENING CABLE
 
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digitalfx

New member
BTW- The new part has substantially changed over images in this thread...unless they sold us the incorrect part, the arm is now a solid piece.

As it turns out, the issue for us was that the bolts were loose and one of them came out completely and fell into the door frame. The loose door stop was preventing the door from closing. I bought the replacement part based on this thread, but when I noticed the missing bolt put it back on and tightened it all up and the door closed...so I didn't change out the part. Im sure I will regret that latter, but for now we are back on the road.

Sprinter Door Stop.jpg
 
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