Orton DIY - Headliner removal & Insulation

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
No problem for me but I am not very sensitive about smells or perceived health hazards with building materials, Did not notice any smell after installation or after over a year of use.
 

c1reynolds

New member
Thanks for getting back to me. How much of the RatTrap did you purchase and where all besides the front cab did you use it on? Im trying to figure out how much to purchase. Also the foil layer, did you buy that locally or on the internet? What is the brand name for it?

Thanks again, great job on the van.
Chris
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
Bought two 100 sq. ft. "bulk packs". Full coverage on steel of 144" NCV3. Everywhere I could reach. My theory is if I covered steel it could not rust from condensation and if I filled every void with insulation then there would not be any air to carry the moisture. Bought Reflectix from the local hardware store or Lowes.
 

hein

Van Guru
Great thread and info. Worth a bump to resolve one last question as I stare at my dangling overhead console.
How to remove the plug? It won't budge and I don't see any kind of release tang. I'm sure it stupid simple.

..and it is!

pull harder. There is no release.
 
Last edited:

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Great thread and info. Worth a bump to resolve one last question as I stare at my dangling overhead console.
How to remove the plug? It won't budge and I don't see any kind of release tang. I'm sure it stupid simple.

..and it is!

pull harder. There is no release.
I was able to disconnect this cable, let me take a picture tomorrow. It was not easy but once you see the connector it will be easier.

George.

PS: About half done on insulation.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
This is the picture of overhead console connector. There is the latching device which needs to be disengaged.

Good luck,

George.
 

Attachments

adv sprinter

New member
thanks for all the info. just gathering enough info and energy to do my ceiling.

2011 crew cab with oem ceiling and side airbags...:thinking


i bought these from mcmaster carr...5692T53 @ $17.61/ft

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-dampers/=tlln1q


did the lower sidings, rear doors and sliding door. works great and light! ended up using about 11 feet.

will get more for the ceiling.
 

adv sprinter

New member
thanks for all the info. just gathering enough info and energy to do my ceiling.

2011 crew cab with oem ceiling and side airbags...:thinking


i bought these from mcmaster carr...5692T53 @ $17.61/ft

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-dampers/=tlln1q


did the lower sidings, rear doors and sliding door. works great and light! ended up using about 11 feet.

will get more for the ceiling.

haha, i bought exactly the same one and 11 feet as well.

really effective in reducing the noise and heat going in.

will need more for the ceiling.

only thing i'm concerned is the heat range, 185F, here in southern cal, that's not uncommon on metal objects sitting in the hot sun.

:thumbup:
 

Casv

New member
Anyone have any tips on removing cargo area headline on a 2014 crew or manual for aftermarket work?
I'm new to this kind of work. Thanks for any input
 

lukedog

Why Dogs Fly
A couple of more pictures. I ran a 1/2" ID plastic conduit down the left "A" pillar from the Panduit wireway I have on the upper left wall down to near the fuse box. The lower dash panel removes with one screw on the bottom edge. I did cut out some of the Styrofoam block at the upper right of drivers window to make the conduit run straighter. Picture of headliner also posted. When I am done with the conversion, the headliner would have to be cut in two to get it out. The headliner has a two part snap in box above the light panel. I looked at the plastic box and determined it can be removed without removing the headliner so I can get access to the base of the aerial. Again not too impressed with the German engineering. The headliner could have been removed without disturbing either the "A" or "B" post panels. All they needed would be horizontal joints between the panels and the headliner. You wonder what they were thinking. Dumb.
Took me awhile to find this thread but glad I did.. Thanks

Al
 

LooseRocks

Active member
There's a "hook" in the bottom of the B pillar cover. That goes in first. Then work your way up. As you get close to the location of the slider pay attention to its alignment with what it mates with on the B pillar. There's a black toggle lever and a silver pin on that. They need to go into openings in the back of the slider simultaneously. In order for that to happen the button on the top of the slider has to be pull up.
 
Last edited:

Top Bottom