My Experience Changing My 2004 OM647 Alternator
Search: Change, install, replace, renew, repair alternator and turbo resonator
I figured I'd write this up even though it has been covered already. It’s pretty basic stuff, but knowing what tools you’ll need may have some value.
Here's the short version so you can avoid my long descriptions. The turbo resonator stuff doesn’t apply to 2001 – 2003 OM612 engines.
Disconnect battery negative.
Remove tension on serpentine belt.
Remove turbo shield on top of engine for Turbo Resonator access.
Disconnect small terminal and large terminal on alternator.
Remove turbo resonator.
Remove alternator.
Reverse procedure to install with "Vee" notch to engine. Refer to post #9.
Easy as pie so even Orion would like it.
The Long Story
At our first fuel stop towing our boat down to New Orleans from Niagara Falls I needed to accelerate a bit more than I usually do into traffic and noticed a couple little chirps. I figured it was the alternator pulley. If I stayed easy on the throttle it seemed fine. Whenever we stopped for fuel I'd inspect the belt and see if the belt was wobbly. After shutdown I'd feel the belt to see if it was getting hot. It all worked fine the rest of the way to New Orleans, back, and then even a bit more driving once home. Easy on the throttle seemed to work just fine. The 90 amp clutch seemed OK by hand, but I don't really have experience to draw upon. With over 225,000 miles I figured changing the alternator was inevitable anyway.
Edit: The "chirping" was actually traced to an exhaust manifold leak. The old alternator is fine.
I upgraded to a 150 amp Bosch alternator from the originally ordered 90 amp (I'm removing the OEM?). The T1N alternators are all interchangeable 90, 120, up to 150 amp to the best of my knowledge (built in voltage regulator). The 150 amp unit is physically larger and took a bit more fiddling to get up into place.
I had a spare Turbo Resonator on hand. Since I needed to remove the TR to install the alternator I installed my Q5 spare. I recommend removing the TR for alternator access. It didn't look to me like I could have removed the one upper bolt without doing that. It made access much better. I also recommend changing out your TR if you aren't certain whether you have the newer Q5 style. It's only about $40 or $50 and would be a pain to change on the road.
Tools that I Needed
17 mm wrench with cord and hook for tensioner
Flashlight
Hose removal tools
3/8” 12 point box/open end wrench for alternator star head bolts (E torx E12?)
¼” 12 point for Turbo Resonator star head bolts (E Torx E7, possibly E8)
12 mm +/- box wrench for torque multiplier
13 mm box wrench for alt terminal
Straight screwdriver
8 mm box wrench for alt terminal and hose clamps
8 mm socket
3/8” ratchet with 3” extension
3/8” 12 point socket
10 mm socket
10 mm box open end wrench for battery negative (not shown)
Parts
Bosch alternator
6 rib PK2260 Serpentine Belt (Should be correct for NAS 2004 - 2006.)
Serpentine Belt Kit if needed. http://europarts-sd.com/mfg-subcat-item.asp?cID=102&scID=174
I normally prefer 6 point sockets so digging up my seldom used 3/8" 12 points for the star fasteners took some looking.
How I Did It
Disconnect the battery negative. (Have your OEM radio code in hand before doing this if applicable.)
Remove tension on the serpentine belt tensioner. I use a 12 point 17 mm box wrench tied back to a hook in the frame hole. There is a hole for a pin keeper in the tensioner to use to hold to it back if you prefer. Check the tensioner for smooth movement while you are there. Replace if it doesn't move smoothly. Mine seemed fine. Use this opportunity to check all the pulleys for smooth operation once the belt is loose.
Remove the Turbo Resonator
From above remove the turbo heat shield on the engine. A 10 mm socket works. The air filter hose removes easily and swings out of the way. It is not necessary to remove it, but it helps with TR access quite a bit. (OM612 owners can ignore this TR stuff..)
Loosen the hose clamp on the turbo resonator hose and clear it.
Back underneath use a ¼” 12 point box wrench to remove the top TR bolt first. That way the lower one holds the original position and keeps the upper bolt from binding. My upper bolt was so tight I needed to use a 12 mm box wrench added to the ¼” one to gain leverage. The torque increaser method is shown in the tool picture. After the TR is loose from the bracket go back up top and remove it.
Disconnect Electrical and Remove Alternator (Battery Negative Removed Previously)
Back underneath. Remove the electrical lugs. 8mm and 13mm nuts on those. If the nuts are tight you may need to hold the electrical lug with pliers so the stud doesn't twist in the plastic.
Use a 3/8” 12 point socket or box wrench to remove the lower alternator E Torx bolt which holds the TR bracket. Leave the other bolt alone so it holds position to prevent binding while you remove the upper bolts.
For the upper bolts remove the one with the TR bracket first. That way the bracket can be swung out of the way. I found the one upper bolt a real pain for access lying on my back. I’m certain a lift would make it easier.
*****
Added:
I don't recall this on the 2004. The 2006 upper *non-bracket* bolt wouldn't pull out for enough for removing. It hit a bracket which stopped the travel. I left the loose bolt in the hole. After the old alternator was out I set the alternators next to each other and transferred the bolt over to the new unit. The method has the additional advantage that it keeps the "Vee" notch in proper orientation.
*****
Remove the lower bolt and juggle the alternator down and out.
Re-install
Juggle the new alternator up into position with "Vee" notch toward engine.
20120528 edit: The alternator can be installed incorrectly so be careful. Thanks goes to Grey man 64 and Skydiver007 for the tips.
Note: I installed the lower TR bracket bolt first without the bracket (the bracket gets in the way) and the other bolt with the hose support and snugged them up first before messing with the upper bolts. That sets the alignment. Install the one upper bolt and snug it up. Next remove the lower TR bracket bolt, then install the TR bracket with upper and lower bolts. Tighten all four bolts to spec.
Install the two alternator electrical lugs. Position the belt back over the pulley.
Back up above, clean and lube the turbo inlet bore. Install the new TR. Inspect that the belt is properly aligned to all the pulleys from above.
Back down underneath install the TR bracket bolts. Re-tension the serpentine belt.
Back up above connect the TR hose. Re-install the air filter hose if it was removed. Re-install the turbo heat shield.
Check to make certain no electrical connectors or hoses in the area of your work were knocked loose during the job. (MAF, Temperature sensor on air filter, etc.)
Double check that everything is completed. Connect the battery negative.
Good luck. vic
P.S. - I forgot to add that all fasteners should be greased or anti sieze applied for the next time.
Added:
Arnie Oli gives instructions on Regulator Change
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=563309#post563309
Search: Change, install, replace, renew, repair alternator and turbo resonator
I figured I'd write this up even though it has been covered already. It’s pretty basic stuff, but knowing what tools you’ll need may have some value.
Here's the short version so you can avoid my long descriptions. The turbo resonator stuff doesn’t apply to 2001 – 2003 OM612 engines.
Disconnect battery negative.
Remove tension on serpentine belt.
Remove turbo shield on top of engine for Turbo Resonator access.
Disconnect small terminal and large terminal on alternator.
Remove turbo resonator.
Remove alternator.
Reverse procedure to install with "Vee" notch to engine. Refer to post #9.
Easy as pie so even Orion would like it.
The Long Story
At our first fuel stop towing our boat down to New Orleans from Niagara Falls I needed to accelerate a bit more than I usually do into traffic and noticed a couple little chirps. I figured it was the alternator pulley. If I stayed easy on the throttle it seemed fine. Whenever we stopped for fuel I'd inspect the belt and see if the belt was wobbly. After shutdown I'd feel the belt to see if it was getting hot. It all worked fine the rest of the way to New Orleans, back, and then even a bit more driving once home. Easy on the throttle seemed to work just fine. The 90 amp clutch seemed OK by hand, but I don't really have experience to draw upon. With over 225,000 miles I figured changing the alternator was inevitable anyway.
Edit: The "chirping" was actually traced to an exhaust manifold leak. The old alternator is fine.
I upgraded to a 150 amp Bosch alternator from the originally ordered 90 amp (I'm removing the OEM?). The T1N alternators are all interchangeable 90, 120, up to 150 amp to the best of my knowledge (built in voltage regulator). The 150 amp unit is physically larger and took a bit more fiddling to get up into place.
I had a spare Turbo Resonator on hand. Since I needed to remove the TR to install the alternator I installed my Q5 spare. I recommend removing the TR for alternator access. It didn't look to me like I could have removed the one upper bolt without doing that. It made access much better. I also recommend changing out your TR if you aren't certain whether you have the newer Q5 style. It's only about $40 or $50 and would be a pain to change on the road.
Tools that I Needed
17 mm wrench with cord and hook for tensioner
Flashlight
Hose removal tools
3/8” 12 point box/open end wrench for alternator star head bolts (E torx E12?)
¼” 12 point for Turbo Resonator star head bolts (E Torx E7, possibly E8)
12 mm +/- box wrench for torque multiplier
13 mm box wrench for alt terminal
Straight screwdriver
8 mm box wrench for alt terminal and hose clamps
8 mm socket
3/8” ratchet with 3” extension
3/8” 12 point socket
10 mm socket
10 mm box open end wrench for battery negative (not shown)
Parts
Bosch alternator
6 rib PK2260 Serpentine Belt (Should be correct for NAS 2004 - 2006.)
Serpentine Belt Kit if needed. http://europarts-sd.com/mfg-subcat-item.asp?cID=102&scID=174
I normally prefer 6 point sockets so digging up my seldom used 3/8" 12 points for the star fasteners took some looking.
How I Did It
Disconnect the battery negative. (Have your OEM radio code in hand before doing this if applicable.)
Remove tension on the serpentine belt tensioner. I use a 12 point 17 mm box wrench tied back to a hook in the frame hole. There is a hole for a pin keeper in the tensioner to use to hold to it back if you prefer. Check the tensioner for smooth movement while you are there. Replace if it doesn't move smoothly. Mine seemed fine. Use this opportunity to check all the pulleys for smooth operation once the belt is loose.
Remove the Turbo Resonator
From above remove the turbo heat shield on the engine. A 10 mm socket works. The air filter hose removes easily and swings out of the way. It is not necessary to remove it, but it helps with TR access quite a bit. (OM612 owners can ignore this TR stuff..)
Loosen the hose clamp on the turbo resonator hose and clear it.
Back underneath use a ¼” 12 point box wrench to remove the top TR bolt first. That way the lower one holds the original position and keeps the upper bolt from binding. My upper bolt was so tight I needed to use a 12 mm box wrench added to the ¼” one to gain leverage. The torque increaser method is shown in the tool picture. After the TR is loose from the bracket go back up top and remove it.
Disconnect Electrical and Remove Alternator (Battery Negative Removed Previously)
Back underneath. Remove the electrical lugs. 8mm and 13mm nuts on those. If the nuts are tight you may need to hold the electrical lug with pliers so the stud doesn't twist in the plastic.
Use a 3/8” 12 point socket or box wrench to remove the lower alternator E Torx bolt which holds the TR bracket. Leave the other bolt alone so it holds position to prevent binding while you remove the upper bolts.
For the upper bolts remove the one with the TR bracket first. That way the bracket can be swung out of the way. I found the one upper bolt a real pain for access lying on my back. I’m certain a lift would make it easier.
*****
Added:
I don't recall this on the 2004. The 2006 upper *non-bracket* bolt wouldn't pull out for enough for removing. It hit a bracket which stopped the travel. I left the loose bolt in the hole. After the old alternator was out I set the alternators next to each other and transferred the bolt over to the new unit. The method has the additional advantage that it keeps the "Vee" notch in proper orientation.
*****
Remove the lower bolt and juggle the alternator down and out.
Re-install
Juggle the new alternator up into position with "Vee" notch toward engine.
20120528 edit: The alternator can be installed incorrectly so be careful. Thanks goes to Grey man 64 and Skydiver007 for the tips.
A picture of my 150 amp installed is in post #9 further on.I finally had some spare time to take off the 120 amp alternator and spin it 180 degrees and it fits like a glove. The "V-notch" side is the one that mounts to the engine block side. Now it makes me wish I had kept the 150 amp alternator. You know what they say about hind sight...
Note: I installed the lower TR bracket bolt first without the bracket (the bracket gets in the way) and the other bolt with the hose support and snugged them up first before messing with the upper bolts. That sets the alignment. Install the one upper bolt and snug it up. Next remove the lower TR bracket bolt, then install the TR bracket with upper and lower bolts. Tighten all four bolts to spec.
Install the two alternator electrical lugs. Position the belt back over the pulley.
Back up above, clean and lube the turbo inlet bore. Install the new TR. Inspect that the belt is properly aligned to all the pulleys from above.
Back down underneath install the TR bracket bolts. Re-tension the serpentine belt.
Back up above connect the TR hose. Re-install the air filter hose if it was removed. Re-install the turbo heat shield.
Check to make certain no electrical connectors or hoses in the area of your work were knocked loose during the job. (MAF, Temperature sensor on air filter, etc.)
Double check that everything is completed. Connect the battery negative.
Good luck. vic
P.S. - I forgot to add that all fasteners should be greased or anti sieze applied for the next time.
Added:
Arnie Oli gives instructions on Regulator Change
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=563309#post563309
The pictures may go away. They aren't attached to Sprinter-source.Got her out. Not much more life left in the brushes anyway. About twenty mins fudging around underneath keeping the alternator in situ and removing the regulator from underneath while my feet burn in the roaring sunshine.
Obviously disconnect battery...
Much easier if you use an E12 torx socket to move the supporting bracket for the turbo to one side.
Remove the bolts and screws shown, cover from alternator comes off and two needlessly hidden screws (WTF Bosch!) come out and the regulator slides out.
...
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