Team Illuminata
Member
I did consider this and may go that route especially as I'm going to be installing a windshield banner in black for BRAIDUSA.com when we replace the windshield. I think I may just extend that to the top of the door glass.
My New RALIVAN
- Thread starter Team Illuminata
- Start date
I did consider this and may go that route especially as I'm going to be installing a windshield banner in black for BRAIDUSA.com when we replace the windshield. I think I may just extend that to the top of the door glass.
Team Illuminata
Member
Race car weighs 2850 or thereabouts. I don't carry much in the van, a few supplies, tools, sample wheels. This weekend I towed with a Trailex aluminium trailer. Probably weighed a lot less than the uhaul jobbie. I do probably have 400lbs of mud on the car right now though! No mileage data, sorry.
brianmcgaha
Member
Having towed a trailer every work day for the past 12 years (not neccessarily always over max towing) Iam well AWARE of what Iam doing and how it pertains to things like accelerating and stopping, turning, cross winds, etc. etc.. The OP on the other hand had no idea, or was not AWARE, he was over max towing, and probrobly doesnt have much experience with towing.
I bet MB would "shutter" to think of how the Sprinter would hold up if they boderlined a number and didnt give you a large safety margin.
Do you tow? Do you have scales at your house and "weigh in" before you leave?
Again, being a little over isnt a big deal (IMO) as long as you have some AWARNESS (of what you are doing and what the consequences are).
EDIT: I have seen some of those aluminum car haulers that weigh as little as 700lbs, great for gas milage but they are spendy.
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And having seen the abuse suffered by steel ones, I wonder what the longevity of an all-aluminum hauler would be?
Team Illuminata
Member
Team Illuminata
Member
I think we need to catch up with our RALIVAN updates. Got a bit behind.
During the winter months we installed a ProClip iPhone mount in the cab:
No, this is not for phone use, I'm not that good a driver that I can talk and drive at the same time. This is so I can use the iPhone's navigation app, play my tunes through the stereo via the USB input and use the OBD2 diagnostic and gauge app. I bought. It also locates the iPhone's camera in a perfect spot for on-track in-van video should the need arise.
We also replaced the OE mud flaps with some bright red polyurathane rally mud flaps from Rally Armor, one of the lines we carry, because, well, it's the RALIVAN!
The OE holes allowed us to fab up some Rally-bling type brackets too:
Surprisingly (or not) Rally Armor don't make fitment specific mud flaps for the Sprinter so we used their universal model which comes without pre-cut holes or hardware. This allowed us to cut holes that lined up with the original mud flaps's holes and use the original screws with big fender washers where necessary.
A piece of copper pipe makes a great spacer to reach the original mounting bracket.
So then we were ready for all the snow and slush Mother Nature forgot to bring us this winter. Still, it looks RALLY.
While we had the wheels off we checked the brakes and discovered it was time for new rear pads:
Uh. ho! this don't look right:
That's more like it:
During the winter months we installed a ProClip iPhone mount in the cab:
No, this is not for phone use, I'm not that good a driver that I can talk and drive at the same time. This is so I can use the iPhone's navigation app, play my tunes through the stereo via the USB input and use the OBD2 diagnostic and gauge app. I bought. It also locates the iPhone's camera in a perfect spot for on-track in-van video should the need arise.
We also replaced the OE mud flaps with some bright red polyurathane rally mud flaps from Rally Armor, one of the lines we carry, because, well, it's the RALIVAN!
The OE holes allowed us to fab up some Rally-bling type brackets too:
Surprisingly (or not) Rally Armor don't make fitment specific mud flaps for the Sprinter so we used their universal model which comes without pre-cut holes or hardware. This allowed us to cut holes that lined up with the original mud flaps's holes and use the original screws with big fender washers where necessary.
A piece of copper pipe makes a great spacer to reach the original mounting bracket.
So then we were ready for all the snow and slush Mother Nature forgot to bring us this winter. Still, it looks RALLY.
While we had the wheels off we checked the brakes and discovered it was time for new rear pads:
Uh. ho! this don't look right:
That's more like it:
talkinghorse43
Well-known member
My pads and rotors have always worn out together (2 sets of fronts, 1 set of rears). Was there still a significant amount of rotor left (meat above discard thickness) on your rears?
Team Illuminata
Member
I didn't measure them but they looked "meaty" enough.
talkinghorse43
Well-known member
Discard thickness of rear rotors for mine is 0.55". Probably that's your number too.
Team Illuminata
Member
Thanks. I'll check them next time I'm under it.
Team Illuminata
Member
More updates:
I decided, as they were leaking oil, it might be an idea to replace the dampers. First had to find the top bolts. Oh, here they are, under the driver's plastic carpet and in the tool shed on the passenger side.
Went with regular duty Bilsteins. Can you tell which is new?
Fronts
Rears
And installed
I had to buy a whole set of spanners just to get one that would fit down onto the front strut nuts. Still, $15 isn't bad for a whole set of spanners. Thanks harbor freight.
One of the easier damper swaps I have done and worth doing as the RALIVAN rides much better now.
I also replaced the front speaker as the right one was blown. Looks like this is going to be at least the second set of replacements. Can't believe this is OE.
Strangely I had to remove the A pillar trim to get at the speakers.
Walmart specials. $35!
With a few "adjustments they plop right in.
They don't sound too brilliant but at least they work.
I decided, as they were leaking oil, it might be an idea to replace the dampers. First had to find the top bolts. Oh, here they are, under the driver's plastic carpet and in the tool shed on the passenger side.
Went with regular duty Bilsteins. Can you tell which is new?
Fronts
Rears
And installed
I had to buy a whole set of spanners just to get one that would fit down onto the front strut nuts. Still, $15 isn't bad for a whole set of spanners. Thanks harbor freight.
One of the easier damper swaps I have done and worth doing as the RALIVAN rides much better now.
I also replaced the front speaker as the right one was blown. Looks like this is going to be at least the second set of replacements. Can't believe this is OE.
Strangely I had to remove the A pillar trim to get at the speakers.
Walmart specials. $35!
With a few "adjustments they plop right in.
They don't sound too brilliant but at least they work.
Got the rest of the Mercedes grill parts last week and slapped them on.
Had to paint the grill surround flat black but the chrome star came already chromed! I think it looks rather nice
Next day I rented a trailer from U-Drag and loaded up the race car for a RallyCross 2.5 hours away.
The RALIVAN did very well and had no problem pulling the car and trailer at 65-70 mph. At 70mph the temperature was slightly elevated from 65mph but not too high at all.
It struggled a bit more on the way back however. Not sure why but we towed a different car back and there was a rather large headwind. With the cruise on it would drop from 70mph to 65mph on some of the drags. Once we got half way home (and the wind died down a bit) it was business as usual.
Generally I was very satisfied with the way it towed and it was great to have the van at the race instead of unloading everything from the race car after driving it there on rally tires! I think it's time to buy a trailer.
For those who are interested in these things for the 300 mile round trip it got 17.5 mpg. Not bad I think.
If I started towing significant weight with my sprinter I would absolutely install a transmission cooler.
That's a sharp looking setup! Nice.
Team Illuminata
Member
So after a few thousand miles on the new dampers I have some looseness in the front that I can't track down. It feels like ball joints or wheel bearings but I checked those and they are fine. I'm thinking the front right damper is faulty and making a noise. Could it be?
Added some extra lights to the front to increase the rally-bling
A few weeks ago we decided it was finally time to replace the cracked wiindshield as the cracks were getting alarmingly big. Took the hood off to make access easier.
and had Service Glass come over to remove the old windshield.
As we had a bit of rust to take care around the winshield I told him I'd give him a call in a few das to install the new one. He was laughing when he left the shop. So we gound off the surface rust.
Painted over it with POR15, filled the irregularities with filler and primed it.
Until finally it was ready for paint.
Now, please bear in mind that this was my first time with a paint gun so there was a bit of a learning curve. It's still a curve. So, we had a few runs but more concerning was the lack of paint match.
I dont think it is qute as bad as it looks here but the original paint has clearly dulled quite a bit. Perhaps we should paint the whole van! Soldier on. Two weeks later we call Service Glass to pop in the new windshield. He laighed again.
Et voila! Good as new.
and then the cheap replacement speakers blew again so I replaced them once more but with some much better ones. Hopefully these will survive a bit longer. Also had to replace the battery!
With it's new windshield the van is proving a great asset due to its excellent towing ability.
I don't think it would make a good dune buggy though
Took it to the track a few times this summer too. No, not to race, to sell wheels.
I think I may have found the Sprinter prototype in Maryland.
No, not up for sale. Free parking spot at Euro cars in Bethesda, Maryland. really saved the day.
Oh, we upgraded the mirrors too. I think these must be off a later model.
Next on the list is power window for the passenger side. I can't reach the handle!
Added some extra lights to the front to increase the rally-bling
A few weeks ago we decided it was finally time to replace the cracked wiindshield as the cracks were getting alarmingly big. Took the hood off to make access easier.
and had Service Glass come over to remove the old windshield.
As we had a bit of rust to take care around the winshield I told him I'd give him a call in a few das to install the new one. He was laughing when he left the shop. So we gound off the surface rust.
Painted over it with POR15, filled the irregularities with filler and primed it.
Until finally it was ready for paint.
Now, please bear in mind that this was my first time with a paint gun so there was a bit of a learning curve. It's still a curve. So, we had a few runs but more concerning was the lack of paint match.
I dont think it is qute as bad as it looks here but the original paint has clearly dulled quite a bit. Perhaps we should paint the whole van! Soldier on. Two weeks later we call Service Glass to pop in the new windshield. He laighed again.
Et voila! Good as new.
and then the cheap replacement speakers blew again so I replaced them once more but with some much better ones. Hopefully these will survive a bit longer. Also had to replace the battery!
With it's new windshield the van is proving a great asset due to its excellent towing ability.
I don't think it would make a good dune buggy though
Took it to the track a few times this summer too. No, not to race, to sell wheels.
I think I may have found the Sprinter prototype in Maryland.
No, not up for sale. Free parking spot at Euro cars in Bethesda, Maryland. really saved the day.
Oh, we upgraded the mirrors too. I think these must be off a later model.
Next on the list is power window for the passenger side. I can't reach the handle!
Team Illuminata
Member
Got toe out?
Looks like the RALIVAN needs a rack. Was hoping it was just a tie rod but think its steering rack bushings. Manageable but pricey
Are these common failures after 250,000 mile? Easy to do? Any good sources for a rebuilt. Looking at $600 locally but at least it comes with tie rods and boots. What steering fluid are we supposed to use?
Looks like the RALIVAN needs a rack. Was hoping it was just a tie rod but think its steering rack bushings. Manageable but pricey
Are these common failures after 250,000 mile? Easy to do? Any good sources for a rebuilt. Looking at $600 locally but at least it comes with tie rods and boots. What steering fluid are we supposed to use?
surlyoldbill
Well-known member
Damn, that was a one-stop-shop for a lot of the T1N problems and mods!
One tip for your rack; check on the power steering fluid level. Mine was low and causing all kinds of problems that were diagnosed as alignment, bad tie rod ends, bad ball joints, bad struts, etc.
I also replaced OEM shocks and struts with Bosch, they work great.
And I talked the windshield replacement guys into letting me take care of rust in their parking lot before installing a new windshield, I had minimal but now I have none.
One tip for your rack; check on the power steering fluid level. Mine was low and causing all kinds of problems that were diagnosed as alignment, bad tie rod ends, bad ball joints, bad struts, etc.
I also replaced OEM shocks and struts with Bosch, they work great.
And I talked the windshield replacement guys into letting me take care of rust in their parking lot before installing a new windshield, I had minimal but now I have none.
Graphite Dave
Dave Orton
Since you are in the business of selling wheels and have a Sprinter, there is a void in the market that you could fill. Why not use your connections to get Sprinter wheels manufactured and make some easy money? No competion.
Team Illuminata
Member
Well, we have super strong wheels that will fit in 15", 16" and even 17" but the "official" load rating is apparantly not quite high enough even though they are bulletproof. I have the 15" on our van.
http://www.braidusa.com/comp_cast.htm
Team Illuminata
Member
Team Illuminata
Member
Hey, sorry. I've been neglecting this build thread. Got a bit distracted by our new rallycross car:
as you might imagine
Anyway, the RALIVAN has been towing the 911 around Michigan quite a bit and has had some issues but nothing major. In our ongoing attempts to isolate the noises from the front and firm up the steering we replaced the steering rack and the anti-roll bar bushings. That helped a bit but when we replaced the upper strut mounts the squeaking noise went away That just left a little bit of clunking from the front somewhere. All that remains untouched that would make any metal to metal noise like this are the wheel bearings and lower ball joints but they seemed fine. Finally, a mechanic friend managed to get a bit of side to side movement out of the ball joints so we ordered up some new ones. We have yet to install them though.
Because we got distracted by some other stuff though we did do a quick alignment as the tires were starting to show signs of a being abused from excessive toe out.
Back to those distractions: Firstly the exhaust system fell off! Yes, literally. Fortunately it happened in my street at 15mph but it was a bit of a surprise.
This bugger weighs about 50lbs!
I couldn't find any aftermarket systems and a dealer wanted oner a grand so we had a local fab shop make a 3" system for a few hundred dollars. RALIVAN now has a rally exhaust
Then, a couple of hours into a week long road trip we lost boost pressure and the RALIVAN went into limp mode. It managed fine but 50mph meant some "relaxed" driving.
When we got back to the shop we couldn't isolate the leak so just replaced all the usual suspects on the intake:
I can't say we fixed it but it hasn't done it since.
There are a lot more stories to tell but they will have to wait. Gotta go sell some wheels.
as you might imagine
Anyway, the RALIVAN has been towing the 911 around Michigan quite a bit and has had some issues but nothing major. In our ongoing attempts to isolate the noises from the front and firm up the steering we replaced the steering rack and the anti-roll bar bushings. That helped a bit but when we replaced the upper strut mounts the squeaking noise went away
That just left a little bit of clunking from the front somewhere. All that remains untouched that would make any metal to metal noise like this are the wheel bearings and lower ball joints but they seemed fine. Finally, a mechanic friend managed to get a bit of side to side movement out of the ball joints so we ordered up some new ones. We have yet to install them though.Because we got distracted by some other stuff though we did do a quick alignment as the tires were starting to show signs of a being abused from excessive toe out.
Back to those distractions: Firstly the exhaust system fell off! Yes, literally. Fortunately it happened in my street at 15mph but it was a bit of a surprise.
This bugger weighs about 50lbs!
I couldn't find any aftermarket systems and a dealer wanted oner a grand so we had a local fab shop make a 3" system for a few hundred dollars. RALIVAN now has a rally exhaust
Then, a couple of hours into a week long road trip we lost boost pressure and the RALIVAN went into limp mode. It managed fine but 50mph meant some "relaxed" driving.
When we got back to the shop we couldn't isolate the leak so just replaced all the usual suspects on the intake:
I can't say we fixed it but it hasn't done it since.
There are a lot more stories to tell but they will have to wait. Gotta go sell some wheels.