I still think think this is a crazy idea I'd be willing to bet that when your Sprinter finally rusts (and I hope that it is a long long time until it does) it will start inside the paint (and plastidip) layer(s). However, I hope it takes so long that I'm not around to find out!Thanks Paul!
I was just going to mask around the panels.. but after reading yours and Mean_in_green's threads about the potential for rust under those panels it just makes sense to remove them and plasti dip under them as well.
So it sounds like it is just a gentle prying job pulling the panel straight away from the van (not forward or backward) and eventually the clips "pop" loose.
I'll wrap a paint scraper in duct tape to do the prying so I hopefully don't mar the paint.
moisture in contact with oxidizable steel.Trivia question Paul: what is required for rust to form?
When I look at the rusted out Sprinters I've seen, most of the appeared to me to have suffered from rust which started when moisture came into contact with the steel inside the vehicle and which then led to rust that eventually spread to the outside. There are exceptions, of course, but this seems more common. Typical "hot spots" seem to be anywhere near where water would drain to, so along the bottom edges of doors and the main body.
George: I think as soon as you get a "non-white" van, you get an extra coat of clear included with the color which makes it less susceptible to chipping.Wow, you have a lot of rust spots. My 2013, one and one half year old van has none. Always parked outside in Portland, OR, the rainy state. Do you think that MgCl2 or its combo with NaCl deicers and sand could be at work? My van’s color is Pebble Grey. I regret not getting a Silver one with the clear coat, well, too late.
Yeah, I was surprised how cold and cloudy it was this morning at the Cars and Coffee in Louisville.Cole: I was just down in the front range and it was all cloudy/overcast.
Blue skies up here at 8000