Add 30 Amp 120 V RV Connector and Door

jmoller99

Own a DAD ODB2 Unit.
I wanted a locking door over 30 Amp RV connector at the back of my Sprinter (where the battery Pack is).

Most of the locking RV covers I found were plastic - I really wanted a metal one. So I ended up with a locking metal door that is for additional fuel lines to your truck (what did I care as long as it was big enough). I planned on painting it to match the Sprinter (White) - and other than a few finger prints in the current finish (which I will touch up in a few days) it works fine. I used a PAKtron Part Number 10-0240 (I don't remember where I got it, other than someplace online - I took a picture of the instruction sheet. They have a stainless steel version too, but I wanted it to match the rest of the van.

I mapped out where I wanted it, and drilled 4 3/8 inch holes, then used a saber saw with a metal cutting blade to make the rectangular hole. I made sure that I had access to everything as well as not overlapping anything inside the Sprinter before cutting. I cleaned, primered and painted the opening in the van (I don't need any more rust).

I had some Sprinter body metal from when I put in sliding windows - I used some to make a place to mount the 30 Amp power connector. This part is indented 1 inch (I bent most of it using a large Vise and some wood to tap on it with - I wish I could have found something else to use that was already pre-formed, but the resulting power mount is very strong and looks fine. I cut a 2 inch hole in the mount, after making sure that the door latch mechanisum would not hit the 30 amp power connector. The parts are all attached to the body area where I cut the hole.

I drilled out the parts individually so they would all fit together. I used 8-32 stainless steel bolts (3/4 inch long) and I used indoor/outdoor caulk around all the metal parts as I put it together - cleaning up what ever squished out as I tightend things down. I used a Vise Grip to hang on to the nuts as I tightend it all down (I could have used a spare hand since there is no way for one person to reach around the opened door to access everything at the same time).

I added the wire to the 30 amp power connector (10 gauge Marine wire - all stranded, not solid copper) and put it in. More 8-32 3/4 inch stainless bolts.

Looks great. I will add a foam piece to be glued on to the door - the 30 amp connector used to have a plastic cover that protected the connector (I removed it), The foam should keep bugs and the like out of it.

I then used more caulk around all the bolts (there is a lock washer there too) and all the edges inside the van. I also caulked around any places that the edges were open at all (plenty since my metal bending effort was all done using a vise and metal that had lines drawn with a magic marker - still, it came out square with a 1 inch lip all around).

I did take the original snap-open cover off the 30 amp connector - it just pops off.

I spent a lot of time waiting for primer and paint to dry.

It took about 6 hours total to do.
 

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jmoller99

Own a DAD ODB2 Unit.
This is the 30 amp inlet connector I used. Amazon has them for around $50.00 (Look for '30 Amp 125V Standard RV Inlet' in any search engine - lots of places sell them).

This end looks different than the 30 amp 120 volt connector that the power cable plugs into at the campground. The RV 30 amp power cable has the right kind of connectors on each end.
 

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