Bob, I'll try to be clear:Does Dodge, Mercedes and Freightliner not have a central database with troubleshooting problems and solutions.
I can't remove my disconnect unless I disengage the red, plastic, sliding lock. I can spin it on the post w/o disengaging the lock, but I'd have to pull on it pretty hard (I'm a weakling compared to most people I know) to get it off the post. Yours is loose. You can't buy the connector. You have to buy the cable.<snip>
Should the connector be that loose on the post.
If that is not getting a good connection there could that cause the problem(s).
My battery voltage metrics are taken while the engine is running.Jon the suspension seats are really nice. Trekker my patience is wearing thin but I have the peace of God, which surpasses all understanding. I would not be able to do it without him. Aeroshots I just broke 20 k on the drive home.
So I took the van to the dodge dealer in Duluth they could not look at it until the next morning so I printed out sections about the wire harness and associated voltages etc. that Jon and aeroshots gave the links for. (thanks guys). Service guy was happy to have the info and when inspecting it they said that there was "resistance" at the alternator so they cleaned the contact and ordered another harness which is getting shipped to me.
The van was fine the rest of the drive home and I just drove it today to pick up the part at the border. When I went to start it the same thing happened again did finally start though. Stopped of to pick up dinner for the family on the way home and when I was leaving the van would not start. I had to leave it there. I went back after dinner to try again and it started after about 5 minutes. I let it run for a minute, put it in drive and it just died. Went to start again...no go for another 10 cycles of the key and now the check engine light is on...great.
I had read Jef's posts under "no-start condition after many warnings" and observed the same thing. I really never payed attention to the glow plug light but noticed when the light comes on my temp overheat display also goes away and the van will start.
I am going to check the voltages tomorrow. Jon on your one post you had the following voltages:
Before I replaced the battery cable, I recorded:
14.1 v at the alternator
13.5 v at the starter
13.2 v at the battery
As it got worse, I saw 12.4 at the battery.
Are these with the van running or with the key in position 2? Should the voltage at the battery on be 12 - 12.5v because they are 12v battery's?
One thing I can hear is when I turn the key on it sounds like the glow plugs come on, I can't describe the sound but I had a diesel tractor and when the glow plugs came on it make the same sound. Do the glow plugs come on every time you turn the key on? If so that would be bad as I have to cycle the key 20 times sometimes. Could that cause the glow plugs to burn out and or swell?
I'm with you on all counts. The cable DIY replacement seems to be cheap insurance for anyone who is traveling away from home often or just wants to avoid the inconvenience of getting stuck. That said, I'm one who stows way too many spare parts in my Sprinter....
Trust me, my mind needs all the help it can get.
Don't feel too bad the service CD/manual are very marginal in layout and information given.I read in the service CD that there is a glow plug module on the front of the engine but I don't think that is what I am looking for. It would be nice on the service CD if they had the diagrams of where the actual modules are. The wire diagrams they show are Greek to me.