2004 Sprinter stalls when stopping.

JSand

New member
My 2004 Sprinter 2.7liter 2500 stalls while coming to a stop. Sometimes stalls after the stop or stalls after stopping and idleing for a few seconds. Starts up fine every time. Replaced a fuel rail and fuel filter. I'm very tired of going to the dealerships and watching them guess on every issue. I wish to eliminate the $200 inspection fee for incorrect guesses and have my local garage do the work. Looking for help and will happily give more information if needed. The problem started about 8 months ago and used to be an occasional stall once or twice a day. It seemed at the time if i just avoided gas stations and only fueled up at truck stops the problem would not occur. Now it happens at 95% of my stops no matter where I fuel up. I do delivery work and it's stop and go all day long. I rev the engine just before it starts to die..jumping the van a foot or so then get it into park while sitting at a stop light. once in park I can keep my foot on the peddle to keep it at around 750 - 1000rpm to keep it from stalling. It never stalls while driving down the road. only while stopping or accelerating after a stop.

Thankyou for any response
 
JSAND

Can you get it to stall or sputter when it's going 50, then hit brakes (pretty firmly) down to 20 then back up to 50? Seems strange it has to come to a stop? Do you have a rear A/C unit?
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
...
once in park I can keep my foot on the peddle to keep it at around 750 - 1000rpm to keep it from stalling. It never stalls while driving down the road. only while stopping or accelerating after a stop.

Thankyou for any response
Does that work while in neutral also? What is the normal idle speed without your foot controlling it?

Seems to me there have been comments about NAG1 transmissions in other other models (not Sprinters) "locking up" and stalling the engine. There is a thread somewhere about it. It doesn't seem to have been a common problem with Sprinters, but we do have a version of the NAG1 transmission.

What transmission fluid are you using? How many miles since change? vic

Edit: I think the lock up in other NAG1 transmission variations was discussed somewhere in Doktor A's RSN Fix (DARF) thread.
 
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bc339

New member
Two more quick, easy and not too expensive items to check are your air and fuel filters. Have they been changed since your problem started?

Bruce
 

JSand

New member
Thanks for the replies. It will not stall at high speeds nor do I have the rear AC you mentioned. The transmission has been flushed full serviced twice in the past 50k miles. This vehicle does have 360k miles on it. It's a dream vehicle for what I am doing. I'm a bit freakish on maintenance. All scheduled maintances are usually performed before factory suggests. It has been to 3 garages to be checked. The last garage was a certified sprinter repair service station before Dodge lost the name and sales of them. It will also stall while in neutral. I mess around with different scenarios all day trying to figure a common cause other than the low idle position at stops. It's wierd though that sometimes it happens while taking off from a stop. As long as I rev it up once before putting it into gear it won't stall. Seems to idle around 650rpms. Just seems that if the idle was cranked up it would be fine. Dealership claimed all fuel pump checks and injector checks checked out . They replaced the fuel rail. $1400 for that repair. I changed the air filter. Had the area cleaned and blown out and they cleaned up my mass air flow censor. They said nothing was bad enough to cause any problems. Turbo resonator has been replaced. Garage said there was nothing wrong with the old one. Transmission fluid was Mopar Sprinter ATF part number 5127382AB.

The official wording from the garage is as follows. 358892 fuel rail pressure too low fault DTCperform diagnostics per TSB for common rail injection and fuel pressure solenoid fails tests at this time and requires replacement before further diagnostics can be performed.

$1,221 later the invoice reads

359765 S/O fuel rail replace fuel injector common rail w/pressure solenoid. Road test 16 miles and engine functions as designed and no faults return at this time. Customer is advised that drivability diagnosis may be a contimnuing procedure and only one condition at a time can be properly diagnosed per the diagnostic service bulletin steps.

drove 40miles home with no issues. Started the van up the next morning and stalled while sitting in the driveway while in park.

thanks for listening :)
 

JSand

New member
JSAND

Can you get it to stall or sputter when it's going 50, then hit brakes (pretty firmly) down to 20 then back up to 50? Seems strange it has to come to a stop? Do you have a rear A/C unit?
Yep. I can go from 50 to 20 with no issues and doesnt miss a beat. Ofcourse all my packages come flying forward! Thanks for that :) don't tell the customers. I handle all packages with care I SWEAR! No rear AC unit.
 

JSand

New member
Two more quick, easy and not too expensive items to check are your air and fuel filters. Have they been changed since your problem started?

Bruce
Air Filters and Fuel filters replaced every 50k miles. Did them once again to make sure and I'm still stalling. Thankyou for all suggestions that are cheap like this. I atleast have hope for a day and having hope is priceless. I bought lottery tickets today hoping. Havnt done that in a long time. If I don't answer back to any posts you'll all know why :)
 

MillionMileSprinter

Formerly Type2Teach
Have you tested your injectors for leak off (not sure if that's exactly what it's called)
Check out my thread entitled "another dead van thread" and see a photo and then a quick step by step of the procedure. It's really easy and cheap and can tell you if you have a bad injector or even one that's going bad. If you had two or three that were on their way out, it could possibly cause this stalling, but not throw a code in the ECU.
If you end up needing new injectors, contact Waynerodd, a user on this forum.
Good luck.
 

lurker2

New member
My buddy has the same thing with his '06 Sprinter with 2.7L diesel.

JSand - "My 2004 Sprinter 2.7liter 2500 stalls while coming to a stop. Sometimes stalls after the stop or stalls after stopping and idleing for a few seconds. Starts up fine every time"

His has 60k miles on it, as its a camper type van, bought used.

He has replaced the 2 common sensors that fail, he bought a replacement turbo and installed it (he was guessing that it was bad, since it had blowby, but i've learned is common on this engine, thanks to you guys! :thumbup:)

I just did the injector leak off test, as I learned from Type2Teach. Here is the photo showing the injectors are good:


Looking for more things to try to diagnose the problem. No check engine light or codes.

Did JSand ever get a solution to this problem?
 

surlyoldbill

New member
If it's low rail pressure, it can be the injectors or fuel rail solenoid o-rings. Because we didn't hear back from JSand, I suspect he did the leak off test and discovered bad injector(s). If you haven't replaced the o-rings on the fuel rail solenoid, located at the engine wall end of the fuel rail, you might try that. An hour or so labor and $1 of parts. I don't have the part number or size for those o-rings, and the 04 may be different than my 03 anyway. You can download the service manual and parts identification as PDF files somewhere on this forum.

I'm assuming you already replaced the fuel filter...
 

lurker2

New member
I had some wrong information that I posted up about the van and am now correcting it: He dropped off the van again for me to look it over. It actually only has 37,000 miles on it, and it did sit for a while before he bought it. We replaced the fuel filter for elimination of possibilities and he is going to drive it around the next few days to see if it acts up again. If so, I will replace the O-rings at the fuel rail solenoid.

Thanks for the reply. Like all difficult or intermittent problems, diagnosing is always the hardest...
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
... If so, I will replace the O-rings at the fuel rail solenoid.

Thanks for the reply. Like all difficult or intermittent problems, diagnosing is always the hardest...
If the 2004 is an OM647 engine then replacing the solenoid seals is not an option. The design is different from the OM612 and doesn't have replaceable seals. The fuel rail/solenoid comes as a complete assembly.

Is the idle at all rough or varying? The pressure regulator mounted on the high pressure pump can cause stalling issues without setting specific DTC's.

vic
 

lurker2

New member
Problem is back, probably never went away...

Idle is smooth as silk, except for when it stumbles while decelerating every once in a while...

Also the van is a 2006.
 

lurker2

New member
I've ridden lots of bikes, but never a Ducati. so, yeah, i missed the joke...

Got to look it over again briefly. He said it had a check engine light on, but my cheapie code read nothing. He said that the wrench symbol came up and flashed -3400 after he started it. Time to search the forum for the meaning of that...
 

NelsonSprinter

Former Nelson BC Sprinter
He said that the wrench symbol came up and flashed -3400 after he started it. Time to search the forum for the meaning of that...
.... meaning is it has been 3400 miles or kms since a basic oil change was due to be performed, or if done, the service reminder was not reset
 

MercedesGenIn

Mercedes-Benz Resource
Just a suggestion, but don't discount a broken shorting wire problem in the engine electrical loom on the right hand side of the engine when looking into the bay. There is the possibility of some issue here.
When the engine is on overrun, the engine will shift/rock and bend the loom here, the same may occur when at idle. When the engine is under load and turning the drivetrain ,the stress on the loom is the other rotational direction. Worth a look.
All the best
Steve
 

MercedesGenIn

Mercedes-Benz Resource
Try here also.

http://www.mercedes.gen.in/WP35/unsual-intermittent-power-problems-mercedes-sprinter/

Just another thought, check the fuse box (link above) under the steering column is secure and not loose, (plugged fully home, check connector corrosion at rear) same goes for the relays plugged into it that hang just beneath the rows of fuses at the base. The far right one is the indicator relay but the one next to it is the ECM relay, if its well plugged in try swapping it with the indicator relay next to it and see if the problem goes away. (The relay on the far left is the wiper relay)
 

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