israndy
2007 LTV Serenity
I saw the Kenwood KSC-SW1 Subwoofer thread and was inspired. Fry's had the Fusion amplified sub for $99 (good price) but it only has audio ins, probably fine if you upgrade your head-end, but I still love the Sound 30 as you probably read in the You Too Can Add REAR speakers to your Factory Sound 20 or 30 thread.
I happened across a cheap $70 delivered 8" amplified sub on eBay. Perhaps used, but it was perfect for my needs and it fit in that USPS flat rate box exactly. I read up on it before committing, and then won the auction. When it arrived I was relieved that it just fit in the space.
The wiring was similar to the Kenwood, it has a remote like the Kenwood, and I run the rear speaker cable across the dash and down, removing the step cover and going straight into the pedestal for the driver's seat. Under my driver's seat, which looked NOTHING like sikwan's, I found power and ground. If you have not taken off your seat before, just rotate it on the swivel adapter (if you have one) and remove the hex key bolts in the four corners. When lifting and moving the seat don't go far w/o checking for cables that heat your seat or whatever.
The Red wires are hooked to the battery ALL the time, the Red and Yellow wires are hooked to (hope I have this right) B+ or D+ which is energized ONLY once the alternator is up to speed. I would hook the sub there as I don't want the sub fighting the starter motor for battery (as I had to do after fiddling with this project for a time), and the black is energized when the key is in the Accessory position. Oddly ground is brown, not black, as you can tell by all those brown wires hooked to that nut in the center of the floor space under the seat.
I used one of those Add A Circuit fuse taps from Kragen or Pep Boys, it is a fuse shaped fuse holder that keeps the original circuit in place and if plugged in correctly it allows a second fuse to feed a second circuit (the new one). Now that I had sources for power I got my trusty 8 gauge wire and ran it up thru the pipe in the seat rotation plate with enough cable to run the seat all the way forward and back. Also ran the speaker wire from the stereo thru there and fed all this to the back of the Boss.
That other wire is the seatbelt sensor. I knew I shouldn't have gone past midnight but I was SO CLOSE to done I plugged ahead and when I turned on the key I heard a pop. Hmmm... did I buy a crap amp? Another fuse, another try, another blow out. Frustrated I went to bed.
In the light of day it was obvious that I had hooked the ground to the 12V and the 12V to ground. Easy fix, and now I know why you ALWAYS protect any wire with power with a fuse.
With everything attached and working I just needed to mount it and it may seem stupid, but it was so easy, just got some long zip ties and joined them together and looped around the chair support, the loop in the lower right is some extras. It is such a tight fit in there that I actually did some cosmetic damage getting past that spring.
After initial listening I could hear the spring harmonize with the sub, so I put (not in the photo) a piece of adhesive velcro. Just enough to push the spring away, while still using the tension with the spring to hold the sub in place. I have to keep reminding myself that I don't wanna HEAR the sub, so I turn it down. I know it is there offering me support of the little 4" speakers from JVC that I have in the dash because whenever I turn off the engine the stereo runs for 3 extra seconds w/o a sub and you can REALLY tell it's gone.
Subs are better for movies with car chases, or for hip hop music, but with it turned down so it's not for effect, the affect isn't too bad and it really does fill in the bottom end. I used one of those tone generators to set the volume of the sub and the JVCs go down to about 125 HZ, and the makes a great cross over to the subwoofer.
-Randy
I happened across a cheap $70 delivered 8" amplified sub on eBay. Perhaps used, but it was perfect for my needs and it fit in that USPS flat rate box exactly. I read up on it before committing, and then won the auction. When it arrived I was relieved that it just fit in the space.
The wiring was similar to the Kenwood, it has a remote like the Kenwood, and I run the rear speaker cable across the dash and down, removing the step cover and going straight into the pedestal for the driver's seat. Under my driver's seat, which looked NOTHING like sikwan's, I found power and ground. If you have not taken off your seat before, just rotate it on the swivel adapter (if you have one) and remove the hex key bolts in the four corners. When lifting and moving the seat don't go far w/o checking for cables that heat your seat or whatever.
The Red wires are hooked to the battery ALL the time, the Red and Yellow wires are hooked to (hope I have this right) B+ or D+ which is energized ONLY once the alternator is up to speed. I would hook the sub there as I don't want the sub fighting the starter motor for battery (as I had to do after fiddling with this project for a time), and the black is energized when the key is in the Accessory position. Oddly ground is brown, not black, as you can tell by all those brown wires hooked to that nut in the center of the floor space under the seat.
I used one of those Add A Circuit fuse taps from Kragen or Pep Boys, it is a fuse shaped fuse holder that keeps the original circuit in place and if plugged in correctly it allows a second fuse to feed a second circuit (the new one). Now that I had sources for power I got my trusty 8 gauge wire and ran it up thru the pipe in the seat rotation plate with enough cable to run the seat all the way forward and back. Also ran the speaker wire from the stereo thru there and fed all this to the back of the Boss.
That other wire is the seatbelt sensor. I knew I shouldn't have gone past midnight but I was SO CLOSE to done I plugged ahead and when I turned on the key I heard a pop. Hmmm... did I buy a crap amp? Another fuse, another try, another blow out. Frustrated I went to bed.
In the light of day it was obvious that I had hooked the ground to the 12V and the 12V to ground. Easy fix, and now I know why you ALWAYS protect any wire with power with a fuse.
With everything attached and working I just needed to mount it and it may seem stupid, but it was so easy, just got some long zip ties and joined them together and looped around the chair support, the loop in the lower right is some extras. It is such a tight fit in there that I actually did some cosmetic damage getting past that spring.
After initial listening I could hear the spring harmonize with the sub, so I put (not in the photo) a piece of adhesive velcro. Just enough to push the spring away, while still using the tension with the spring to hold the sub in place. I have to keep reminding myself that I don't wanna HEAR the sub, so I turn it down. I know it is there offering me support of the little 4" speakers from JVC that I have in the dash because whenever I turn off the engine the stereo runs for 3 extra seconds w/o a sub and you can REALLY tell it's gone.
Subs are better for movies with car chases, or for hip hop music, but with it turned down so it's not for effect, the affect isn't too bad and it really does fill in the bottom end. I used one of those tone generators to set the volume of the sub and the JVCs go down to about 125 HZ, and the makes a great cross over to the subwoofer.
-Randy
where did you get that?
