Power Window Track Fix

[sikwan]

Window quit at a bad time? Need a no part fix? This is it.

**********
Of course while prepping for a trip and leaving tomorrow the driver side power window on the 2006 decides to break the nylon mount.

I did the bend the arm "temporary" fix trick. It may be a permanent fix for a 15 year old Sprinter. It was a 30 minute job only because an on foot traveling salesman selling cleaning products interrupted the operation. (I thought I had been transported back to the 1940's. I did buy a bottle of his snake oil cleaner to reward his entrepreneurial methods... and to get him to move on.)

This is a power window Youtube video. It shows the trim removal and the bend trick to get a power window working after the plastic slide cracks.

The lock cable doesn't need to be removed for the bend trick.

I used 2 pipe wrenches to slightly kink the arm. A tool bench handy 8" and a 14" size. The arm can be bent without the pipe wrench leverage, but the wrenches made it easier. The arm needs to be "kicked" enough to keep the actuator arm bearing against the track. That keeps the metal button engaged without needing a nylon slug. The manual crank windows use a metal button slide. There is no plastic/nylon slug like is on the power windows.

A possible factor for the plastic slide breaking?
The windows in the 2006 are rarely ever 1/2 way open. Typically they are fully open or fully closed. Today while running errands the driver side window was 1/2 open. After a couple stops I noticed a bit of noise from the window when the door was closed, but didn't think much of it. Did the plastic happen to fail, or was there additional stress added because the arm was loose at a 1/2 way position? I guess that we'll never know for certain.

vic
**********
Post #12

Lube Grease Window Track and Parts

Greasing the window tracks without cleaning the old grease out has worked great. I didn't realize how much the 2004 crank windows were binding until the new grease freed everything up. I ass-u-me that the result is the same for the 2006 powered windows, but I don't really have a way to verify...

sprinter-source.com

****************
I trust that Sikwan won't mind me adding this T1N window regulator quick fix Youtube video here.

Basically.
Remove top pillar trim by pushing/tapping the lower section toward the vent window.
Remove the pull handle cover trim.
Remove switch assembly and unplug connectors.
Find 2 ea. T30 screws and remove. (One is in a deep and narrow recess.)
Unlatch lower storage hatch and swing open.
Grasp door panel and pull straight up to release clips.
For driver side power window:
Struggle to release the switch connectors past the latch cable.
For passenger side power window:
Easily work the single connector free past the door latch cable.

For lubing I just balanced the door panel on the open hatch door. More extensive work might require freeing the latch cable to completely remove the panel.

Bend the operating arm in enough to get the actuator stub to engage the track.
Re-assemble in the opposite order.

vic
*********************


Sikwan's original thread begins here.



A couple weeks ago I heard a rattle coming from the passenger side door. I've never heard it before so I just powered the window up and the noise went away. 15 minutes later when I parked the van, I tried to close the window but it wouldn't move. It would move up a bit, but it wouldn't go back down. Great, another thing to fix before the trip. Hopefully it won't be too hard.

Here's some info on removing the door panel...

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1136&postcount=4

This is what I found when I removed the door panel...

The white plastic in the window channel split into "a" and "b" leaving "c" disconnected.

I measured the plastic piece and it was 0.625 in height.


I found a post from Vic (Thanks Vic!) that someone used a shower door roller that was 0.625 in height to fix the power window problem. Problem was I could not find any 5/8" roller at any of my local hardware stores. I had to order a set online from Home Depot and had them expedited.

When I got the roller, I went ahead and modified it with a Dremel and sanding bit. With the OEM (cracked in half) plastic on hand, I grounded the roller until it matched the original and it fit within the window channel.

Original roller, modified roller, and OEM plastic.


It was real close on the metal part.


Now to drill out the riveted part.

I laid a piece of cardboard down to catch the shavings.

 

[sikwan]

The pilot hole.


After a few different sized drill bits, I finally mangled the rivet off.


Before I attached the arm, I wanted to see if I could clear the track from rubbing against the piece of metal with the paint scratched off.

It was a wasted effort as it still rubbed. Plus I didn't want to dent the door outward. I wonder if there's a reason why the channel needs to rub against this part of the door. I don't think it's for alignment, but I could be wrong.

I removed all the OEM grease from the track and the arm.

I dripped some loctite red into the roller nut. I used 3 washers, the one you see under the head of an 8-32 (0.5" length) screw...

...and two on roller side. I tried one, but the arm would interfere with the channel.

The fixed window in action...

After I did a visual check that the roller would spin going up and down, I added some water resistant white teflon grease that I use for bicycles along the roller channel. I don't think it needed it due to the roller action, but I was worried about that thin piece of plastic that surrounded the roller backside metal.

I did the same for the driver's side since I had the extra roller. I like the roller method a lot more compared to the OEM version.

 

[teamtexas]

Great write up on the repair Seek! Looks like it operates smoother than ever.

Dan

 

[rbarg]

Absolutely invaluable writeup on the window repair. The photos were super and the link to Home Depot made the roller purchase easy. The only change was I used 3 washers between the arm and the roller to make sure the arm cleared the track. Works wicked smooth. I should change out the passenger door soon. Thanks , Rich in CT.

 

[maxextz]

thanks great stuff seek.

 

[Dougflas]

Local Lowes has them in stock.

 

[Oregon2]

A couple weeks ago I heard a rattle coming from the passenger side door. I've never heard it before so I just powered the window up and the noise went away. 15 minutes later when I parked the van, I tried to close the window but it wouldn't move. It would move up a bit, but it wouldn't go back down. Great, another thing to fix before the trip. Hopefully it won't be too hard.

Here's some info on removing the door panel...

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1136&postcount=4

This is what I found when I removed the door panel...
View attachment 33426
The white plastic in the window channel split into "a" and "b" leaving "c" disconnected.

I measured the plastic piece and it was 0.625 in height.
View attachment 33422

I found a post from Vic (Thanks Vic!) that someone used a shower door roller that was 0.625 in height to fix the power window problem. Problem was I could not find any 5/8" roller at any of my local hardware stores. I had to order a set online from Home Depot and had them expedited.

When I got the roller, I went ahead and modified it with a Dremel and sanding bit. With the OEM (cracked in half) plastic on hand, I grounded the roller until it matched the original and it fit within the window channel.

Original roller, modified roller, and OEM plastic.
View attachment 33423

It was real close on the metal part.
View attachment 33424

Now to drill out the riveted part.
View attachment 33425
I laid a piece of cardboard down to catch the shavings.

sikwan, Fantastic window fix! I followed your instruction to the letter and it worked like a charm. I first sought advice from a Sprinter dealer who told me that in order to replace the nylon bushing I would have to replace the entire window regulator. The part alone was over $200. I found the 5/8" rollers at Ace Hardware. Had to buy a Dremel to shape the roller but this tool will come in handy for other projects including the passenger side window if that bushing fails. I used a Dremel grinding tool to grind off the rivet head and the rivet popped right off. Thanks again for the post. Oregon2

 

[Joes05VC]

My driver's door window has dropped so far down that the bottom of the glass with the metal part for the roller cannot be seen. It is below the aluminum brace at the inside bottom of the door. The T-40 driver has messed up the head of the bolt and just turns. The big star-headed bolts must have been torqued to 200+ ft.Lbs. at the factory. Trying to pull the door glass up is futile because it is wedged so tightly between this aluminum brace and bottom of the door. I will have to grind the head off the bolt, pull the aluminum brace out and then maybe the glass can be moved up.

It is too bad that MB used so many plastic parts in the Sprinter that are subject to wear or breakage and are very difficult to access, fix or replace.

 

[pushingmetal]

Thank you for this fix. I repaired the drivers door with this technique. My only concern is that the load is taken by an 8-32 screw rather than the stock rivet. How msny cycles do you have on the window since repair?

 

[hempaction!]

Victory is mine! My first DIY project on this vehicle reminded me of working with my dad. Holding a flashlight while he cusses and fusses to make it work.
I ordered the part #74402 DOR from U.S. Auto Parts. It is the wrong size, but the Dremel is an amazing little tool. After shaving and shaving the plastic I realized that the metal roller was the right size for the track so I'm left with a pretty thin piece of plastic but the the roller won't come free of the track if the plastic breaks. I expect in that case the window won't roll as smooth and I will probably hear somethin funky comin from in there. Also the screw is bigger than the former rivet so I had to drill the hole out a little bit. So far, so good.
Best part is for the price of a couple of broken Dremel cutting discs (my first Dremel) I got to stick it to the dealer and MB who wanted over $300! The parts were even free because U.S. Auto recognized their mistake and is refunding my $$.

 

[sikwan]

Thank you for this fix. I repaired the drivers door with this technique. My only concern is that the load is taken by an 8-32 screw rather than the stock rivet. How msny cycles do you have on the window since repair?

I didn't keep count of the cycles, but mine is still working since I posted this.

Do you know what the shear strength is of an 8-32 screw, non-stainless, zinc plated? I don't, but I'm pretty sure the arm will bend before the screw will shear off.

Also the rivet may be thick where it rides on the sliding plastic, but the section that is riveted to the arm has a similar diameter to the 8-32 screw. Furthermore, the rivet metal is soft to facilitate riveting to the arm.

 

[220629]

Seek,
All good points about an 8-32 steel screw vs OEM rivet. Another factor is the friction/binding created by the clamping action between the two pieces. That screw should be well up to the task.

It would be great if Dorman modifies the part to just fit right in. They have a really nice line of other odd part solutions which save purchasing complete assemblies. Anytime I'm in a store and see one of their displays I always look them over to mentally file away possible future solutions. Many times I've modified a Dorman part to repair a vehicle which it wasn't originally intended to fit. vic

I didn't keep count of the cycles, but mine is still working since I posted this.

Do you know what the shear strength is of an 8-32 screw, non-stainless, zinc plated? I don't, but I'm pretty sure the arm will bend before the screw will shear off.

Also the rivet may be thick where it rides on the sliding plastic, but the section that is riveted to the arm has a similar diameter to the 8-32 screw. Furthermore, the rivet metal is soft to facilitate riveting to the arm.

 

[Dingo]

To give your window motors an easier life , puff powdered graphite or even talcum powder into the window runners ( the black fuzzy bit ) & watch how much faster they move up & down , especially upwards . have used this on many vehicles with power windows . One RollsRoyce owner was very happy at the simplicity of the "fix":

 

[darren]

Thank you for the detailed info. It was VERY helpful!

 

[chop20041]

THANK YOU!!!! This is great info, as I went to the stealership yesterday and they told me I would have to replace the whole regulator. I thought no way, i would have that part made from derilin or adapt a wheel before i pay for a new regulator. Thanks again!! I love this forum

 

[obbiedog]

Worked like charm....and EASY to fab and install once you locate the rollers (sourced from Amazon.com). Thanks!

 

[Dingo]

a local engineer shop should be able to sell / give you off cuts of industrial grade nylon rod that you can cut down to width & make your own rollers with .

Use my local nice man all the time , rather than pay him directly , i " contribute " to the tea & biscuit funds .Works well for all concerned . He has even machined alloy & brass components for very small amounts of cash to replace discontinued machine parts for cleaning machines that i repair , way better made & finished . Last lot were billet aluminium bearing carriers , original were cast & prone to shattering . So far so good , so go talk to your local fab shop & be nice to man in overalls

 

[roadtrip]

Thank You very much for the great write up! The repair went amazingly smooth. I actually have a new window regulator that came with the sprinter, but this repair was so easy I decided to do it instead of putting in a new one. Now I have one to sell

 

[AustinSprinterGuy]

+1 for a great solution for this.



I've been driving around with my window stuck in the up position since I disconnected the bezel when my cheapo track slider broke. Everybody I had asked intimated that I'd have to buy an entire new window assembly.

Yesterday I installed the Home Depot shower roller. Total cost of project = $10.49.

No more having to open the door to pay tolls! Nice work sikwan.

 

[blessedmomof8]

Thanks so much for this fix!! I fixed my window in less than an hour all by myself! It cost me $40.00 because I didn't have some of the items I needed for my Dremel tool and some grease, but my husband thinks this forum and his wife are a great combination! So thanks for making me look good!