Power Window Track Fix

sikwan

06 T1N Can
A compilation from two threads.

Bending the Arm and Lubrication.

...
Edit: got it done with a small zip tie around the plastic piece that broke. But after bending the arm, the zip tie is superfluous - the arm is now pressing tightly into the track on its own accord and there's no way it's going to come out of the track.
If not bent in enough apparently a slammed door can knock it loose.

I bought the replacements and realized I needed to drill out the remaining broken part in the actuator arm. Forgive the lack of accurate terminology. Time was short, so I slightly bent to arm enough to keep it in the track and with a little lithium grease, away I went.

The only time it has popped out was when a mechanic slammed the door. That was a one time lesson. These doors do not have to ever be slammed shut. If I ever feel so inclined, I will drill out the offending piece and install the Ebay piece. Bouncing around Baja last winter did not affect this temporary fix. Only a careless mechanic has caused me to go back in there and push it back into place.
After reading a lot of things here & on Youtube, we just bent the arm toward the outside of the door - it's pretty springy so we put a block of wood behind it & then used a pipe-wrench for leverage and bent it so that it holds the stud in the window-bottom track where the broken plastic slide used to be. The window rides up & down on the stud, rather than a 'fancy' slide.

Works great. No cost. Hardest part was getting the door panel back on.

-Oly
Lubriplate is an excellent choice.

I used regular old *modern* wheel bearing grease to lube the 2004 and 2006 tracks. In my experience modern wheel bearing greases do not dry out or harden.

If the tracks are periodically lubed, I see no reason that the bend the arm trick and using the metal button only won't be good. The T1N's are old. A greased metal button as a slide will outlast the service life of an old T1N. :2cents:

Lubing the tracks isn't difficult.

Lube Grease Window Track and Parts
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75849

:cheers: vic



****************
I trust that Sikwan won't mind me adding this T1N window regulator quick fix Youtube video here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_EpfpdpUlc

Basically.
Remove top pillar trim by pushing/tapping the lower section toward the vent window.
Remove the pull handle cover trim.
Remove switch assembly and unplug connectors.
Find 2 ea. T30 screws and remove. (One is in a deep and narrow recess.)
Unlatch lower storage hatch and swing open.
Grasp door panel and pull straight up to release clips.
For driver side power window:
Struggle to release the switch connectors past the latch cable.
For passenger side power window:
Easily work the single connector free past the door latch cable.

For lubing I just balanced the door panel on the open hatch door. More extensive work might require freeing the latch cable to completely remove the panel.

Bend the operating arm in enough to get the actuator stub to engage the track.
Re-assemble in the opposite order.

vic
*********************


Sikwan's original thread begins here.



A couple weeks ago I heard a rattle coming from the passenger side door. I've never heard it before so I just powered the window up and the noise went away. 15 minutes later when I parked the van, I tried to close the window but it wouldn't move. :thinking: It would move up a bit, but it wouldn't go back down. Great, another thing to fix before the trip. Hopefully it won't be too hard.

Here's some info on removing the door panel...

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1136&postcount=4

This is what I found when I removed the door panel...
DSCF1473.JPG
The white plastic in the window channel split into "a" and "b" leaving "c" disconnected.

I measured the plastic piece and it was 0.625 in height.
DSCF1476.JPG

I found a post from Vic (Thanks Vic!) that someone used a shower door roller that was 0.625 in height to fix the power window problem. Problem was I could not find any 5/8" roller at any of my local hardware stores. I had to order a set online from Home Depot and had them expedited.

When I got the roller, I went ahead and modified it with a Dremel and sanding bit. With the OEM (cracked in half) plastic on hand, I grounded the roller until it matched the original and it fit within the window channel.

Original roller, modified roller, and OEM plastic.
DSCF1484.JPG

It was real close on the metal part.
DSCF1492.JPG

Now to drill out the riveted part.
DSCF1495.JPG
I laid a piece of cardboard down to catch the shavings.
 
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sikwan

06 T1N Can
The pilot hole.
DSCF1496.JPG

After a few different sized drill bits, I finally mangled the rivet off.
DSCF1498.JPG

Before I attached the arm, I wanted to see if I could clear the track from rubbing against the piece of metal with the paint scratched off.
DSCF1499.JPG
It was a wasted effort as it still rubbed. Plus I didn't want to dent the door outward. I wonder if there's a reason why the channel needs to rub against this part of the door. I don't think it's for alignment, but I could be wrong.

I removed all the OEM grease from the track and the arm.

I dripped some loctite red into the roller nut. I used 3 washers, the one you see under the head of an 8-32 (0.5" length) screw...
DSCF1502.JPG
...and two on roller side. I tried one, but the arm would interfere with the channel.

The fixed window in action...

After I did a visual check that the roller would spin going up and down, I added some water resistant white teflon grease that I use for bicycles along the roller channel. I don't think it needed it due to the roller action, but I was worried about that thin piece of plastic that surrounded the roller backside metal.

I did the same for the driver's side since I had the extra roller. I like the roller method a lot more compared to the OEM version.
 
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rbarg

New member
Absolutely invaluable writeup on the window repair. The photos were super and the link to Home Depot made the roller purchase easy. The only change was I used 3 washers between the arm and the roller to make sure the arm cleared the track. Works wicked smooth. I should change out the passenger door soon. Thanks , Rich in CT.
 

Oregon2

New member
A couple weeks ago I heard a rattle coming from the passenger side door. I've never heard it before so I just powered the window up and the noise went away. 15 minutes later when I parked the van, I tried to close the window but it wouldn't move. :thinking: It would move up a bit, but it wouldn't go back down. Great, another thing to fix before the trip. Hopefully it won't be too hard.

Here's some info on removing the door panel...

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1136&postcount=4

This is what I found when I removed the door panel...
View attachment 33426
The white plastic in the window channel split into "a" and "b" leaving "c" disconnected.

I measured the plastic piece and it was 0.625 in height.
View attachment 33422

I found a post from Vic (Thanks Vic!) that someone used a shower door roller that was 0.625 in height to fix the power window problem. Problem was I could not find any 5/8" roller at any of my local hardware stores. I had to order a set online from Home Depot and had them expedited.

When I got the roller, I went ahead and modified it with a Dremel and sanding bit. With the OEM (cracked in half) plastic on hand, I grounded the roller until it matched the original and it fit within the window channel.

Original roller, modified roller, and OEM plastic.
View attachment 33423

It was real close on the metal part.
View attachment 33424

Now to drill out the riveted part.
View attachment 33425
I laid a piece of cardboard down to catch the shavings.
sikwan, Fantastic window fix! I followed your instruction to the letter and it worked like a charm. I first sought advice from a Sprinter dealer who told me that in order to replace the nylon bushing I would have to replace the entire window regulator. The part alone was over $200. I found the 5/8" rollers at Ace Hardware. Had to buy a Dremel to shape the roller but this tool will come in handy for other projects including the passenger side window if that bushing fails. I used a Dremel grinding tool to grind off the rivet head and the rivet popped right off. Thanks again for the post. Oregon2
 
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Joes05VC

'05 Vista Cruiser fun trk
My driver's door window has dropped so far down that the bottom of the glass with the metal part for the roller cannot be seen. It is below the aluminum brace at the inside bottom of the door. The T-40 driver has messed up the head of the bolt and just turns. The big star-headed bolts must have been torqued to 200+ ft.Lbs. at the factory. Trying to pull the door glass up is futile because it is wedged so tightly between this aluminum brace and bottom of the door. I will have to grind the head off the bolt, pull the aluminum brace out and then maybe the glass can be moved up.

It is too bad that MB used so many plastic parts in the Sprinter that are subject to wear or breakage and are very difficult to access, fix or replace.
 

pushingmetal

New member
Thank you for this fix. I repaired the drivers door with this technique. My only concern is that the load is taken by an 8-32 screw rather than the stock rivet. How msny cycles do you have on the window since repair?
 

hempaction!

WVO tour for hemp
Victory is mine! My first DIY project on this vehicle reminded me of working with my dad. Holding a flashlight while he cusses and fusses to make it work.
I ordered the part #74402 DOR from U.S. Auto Parts. It is the wrong size, but the Dremel is an amazing little tool. After shaving and shaving the plastic I realized that the metal roller was the right size for the track so I'm left with a pretty thin piece of plastic but the the roller won't come free of the track if the plastic breaks. I expect in that case the window won't roll as smooth and I will probably hear somethin funky comin from in there. Also the screw is bigger than the former rivet so I had to drill the hole out a little bit. So far, so good.
Best part is for the price of a couple of broken Dremel cutting discs (my first Dremel) I got to stick it to the dealer and MB who wanted over $300! The parts were even free because U.S. Auto recognized their mistake and is refunding my $$.:tongue:
 

sikwan

06 T1N Can
Thank you for this fix. I repaired the drivers door with this technique. My only concern is that the load is taken by an 8-32 screw rather than the stock rivet. How msny cycles do you have on the window since repair?
I didn't keep count of the cycles, but mine is still working since I posted this.

Do you know what the shear strength is of an 8-32 screw, non-stainless, zinc plated? I don't, but I'm pretty sure the arm will bend before the screw will shear off.

Also the rivet may be thick where it rides on the sliding plastic, but the section that is riveted to the arm has a similar diameter to the 8-32 screw. Furthermore, the rivet metal is soft to facilitate riveting to the arm.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Seek,
All good points about an 8-32 steel screw vs OEM rivet. Another factor is the friction/binding created by the clamping action between the two pieces. That screw should be well up to the task.

It would be great if Dorman modifies the part to just fit right in. They have a really nice line of other odd part solutions which save purchasing complete assemblies. Anytime I'm in a store and see one of their displays I always look them over to mentally file away possible future solutions. Many times I've modified a Dorman part to repair a vehicle which it wasn't originally intended to fit. vic
I didn't keep count of the cycles, but mine is still working since I posted this.

Do you know what the shear strength is of an 8-32 screw, non-stainless, zinc plated? I don't, but I'm pretty sure the arm will bend before the screw will shear off.

Also the rivet may be thick where it rides on the sliding plastic, but the section that is riveted to the arm has a similar diameter to the 8-32 screw. Furthermore, the rivet metal is soft to facilitate riveting to the arm.
 

Dingo

New member
To give your window motors an easier life , puff powdered graphite or even talcum powder into the window runners ( the black fuzzy bit :) ) & watch how much faster they move up & down , especially upwards . have used this on many vehicles with power windows . One RollsRoyce owner was very happy at the simplicity of the "fix"::professor:
 

chop20041

New member
THANK YOU!!!! This is great info, as I went to the stealership yesterday and they told me I would have to replace the whole regulator. I thought no way, i would have that part made from derilin or adapt a wheel before i pay for a new regulator. Thanks again!! I love this forum :rad:
 

obbiedog

New member
Worked like charm....and EASY to fab and install once you locate the rollers (sourced from Amazon.com). Thanks!
 

Dingo

New member
a local engineer shop should be able to sell / give you off cuts of industrial grade nylon rod that you can cut down to width & make your own rollers with .

Use my local nice man all the time , rather than pay him directly , i " contribute " to the tea & biscuit funds .Works well for all concerned . He has even machined alloy & brass components for very small amounts of cash to replace discontinued machine parts for cleaning machines that i repair , way better made & finished . Last lot were billet aluminium bearing carriers , original were cast & prone to shattering . So far so good , so go talk to your local fab shop & be nice to man in overalls
 

roadtrip

New member
Thank You very much for the great write up! The repair went amazingly smooth. I actually have a new window regulator that came with the sprinter, but this repair was so easy I decided to do it instead of putting in a new one. Now I have one to sell :bounce:
 

AustinSprinterGuy

2003 NAFTA 2500 SHC OM612
+1 for a great solution for this.

:thumbup:

I've been driving around with my window stuck in the up position since I disconnected the bezel when my cheapo track slider broke. Everybody I had asked intimated that I'd have to buy an entire new window assembly.

Yesterday I installed the Home Depot shower roller. Total cost of project = $10.49.

No more having to open the door to pay tolls! Nice work sikwan.
 

blessedmomof8

New member
Thanks so much for this fix!! I fixed my window in less than an hour all by myself! It cost me $40.00 because I didn't have some of the items I needed for my Dremel tool and some grease, but my husband thinks this forum and his wife are a great combination! So thanks for making me look good!
 

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