06 T1N Can
A compilation from two threads.
Bending the Arm and Lubrication.
If not bent in enough apparently a slammed door can knock it loose....
Edit: got it done with a small zip tie around the plastic piece that broke. But after bending the arm, the zip tie is superfluous - the arm is now pressing tightly into the track on its own accord and there's no way it's going to come out of the track.
I bought the replacements and realized I needed to drill out the remaining broken part in the actuator arm. Forgive the lack of accurate terminology. Time was short, so I slightly bent to arm enough to keep it in the track and with a little lithium grease, away I went.
The only time it has popped out was when a mechanic slammed the door. That was a one time lesson. These doors do not have to ever be slammed shut. If I ever feel so inclined, I will drill out the offending piece and install the Ebay piece. Bouncing around Baja last winter did not affect this temporary fix. Only a careless mechanic has caused me to go back in there and push it back into place.After reading a lot of things here & on Youtube, we just bent the arm toward the outside of the door - it's pretty springy so we put a block of wood behind it & then used a pipe-wrench for leverage and bent it so that it holds the stud in the window-bottom track where the broken plastic slide used to be. The window rides up & down on the stud, rather than a 'fancy' slide.
Works great. No cost. Hardest part was getting the door panel back on.
-OlyLubriplate is an excellent choice.
I used regular old *modern* wheel bearing grease to lube the 2004 and 2006 tracks. In my experience modern wheel bearing greases do not dry out or harden.
If the tracks are periodically lubed, I see no reason that the bend the arm trick and using the metal button only won't be good. The T1N's are old. A greased metal button as a slide will outlast the service life of an old T1N.
Lubing the tracks isn't difficult.
Lube Grease Window Track and Parts
I trust that Sikwan won't mind me adding this T1N window regulator quick fix Youtube video here.
Remove top pillar trim by pushing/tapping the lower section toward the vent window.
Remove the pull handle cover trim.
Remove switch assembly and unplug connectors.
Find 2 ea. T30 screws and remove. (One is in a deep and narrow recess.)
Unlatch lower storage hatch and swing open.
Grasp door panel and pull straight up to release clips.
For driver side power window:
Struggle to release the switch connectors past the latch cable.
For passenger side power window:
Easily work the single connector free past the door latch cable.
For lubing I just balanced the door panel on the open hatch door. More extensive work might require freeing the latch cable to completely remove the panel.
Bend the operating arm in enough to get the actuator stub to engage the track.
Re-assemble in the opposite order.
Sikwan's original thread begins here.
A couple weeks ago I heard a rattle coming from the passenger side door. I've never heard it before so I just powered the window up and the noise went away. 15 minutes later when I parked the van, I tried to close the window but it wouldn't move. It would move up a bit, but it wouldn't go back down. Great, another thing to fix before the trip. Hopefully it won't be too hard.
Here's some info on removing the door panel...
This is what I found when I removed the door panel...
The white plastic in the window channel split into "a" and "b" leaving "c" disconnected.
I measured the plastic piece and it was 0.625 in height.
I found a post from Vic (Thanks Vic!) that someone used a shower door roller that was 0.625 in height to fix the power window problem. Problem was I could not find any 5/8" roller at any of my local hardware stores. I had to order a set online from Home Depot and had them expedited.
When I got the roller, I went ahead and modified it with a Dremel and sanding bit. With the OEM (cracked in half) plastic on hand, I grounded the roller until it matched the original and it fit within the window channel.
Original roller, modified roller, and OEM plastic.
It was real close on the metal part.
Now to drill out the riveted part.
I laid a piece of cardboard down to catch the shavings.
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